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Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread

Goldmund posted:

I'd be interested to see how it turns out. I usually just paint the backs of my tanks black, but a 3d background is definitely intriguing. Does your 120 have overflows you had to work around?

It has been surprisingly easy to build, and quite inexpensive. I don't have any overflows, but after carving all the styrofoam, I think they'd be easy to build around if I did have them. I'm at work now, but will post pictures tonight.

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Fuckface the Hedgehog
Jun 12, 2007

So after years of farting around I've bit the bullet and dropped some cash on gear. My present from my missus was a 30cm ADA Cube, and I'm in process of grabbing hardscape, filtration, etc from the LFS up the road. One thing thats annoying me though is the lack of decent looking stands around. The guy at the LFS offered to get an ADA cube stand in, but those things look like arse, and I was hoping for something a little bit more substantial than the glass. What are you guys with nanos and small cubes using for your aquariums?

big dig
Sep 11, 2001

Cowboys > Ninjas
Hey Guys!

After a long absence from keeping fish, and having a young toddler who thinks fish are the poo poo, my wife suggested we get a fish. She thought we should get a betta, but I wanted Cichlids, African Cichlids. The only thing I was told was to not make it look tacky. She also gave me a budget of $100... ha!

I went searching for fish tanks I like, and found this tank right here.


It was a Chinese import, has 3/4" sapphire glass, is approximately 78 gallons in display volume, and has a 35 gallon refugium built into the back which I use as the primary filter. With it came a controller driven LED fixture, heat sink, fans and a remote control. I added a power head, as well as an airstone in the refugium as there is VERY little surface area for gas exchange and fishes need to breath.

What I decided to do was make a nice, large rock scape to take advantage of the floor and height elevations within the tank. Google image search showed a lot of funny cichlid tanks with rocks and lava rock and all that shiz packed in there with tons of holes because cichlids love holes and caves I guess. However, I wanted to keep more free swimming Haps and Peacocks, so I decided to go with more open swim area, rather then rocks on rocks on rocks.

I googled Lake Malawi, and Lake Tanganyika to see what they look like, and was inspired by this picture, and decided to make my aquascape from styrofoam and concrete.



First step, I drew out the floor print of my tank on a sheet of old plywood and began to carve the foam with a large bread knife. I then sanded them with coarse grit paper to smooth it out. I did this outdoors so I wouldn't mess up my house TOO bad.



I then had a bit of a problem. Styrofoam is buoyant, and as this was stuff I pulled out of my wife's snake room I didn't have any information on density or anything. Being an engineer, I did what comes naturally. I drank scotch and tried to teach my toddler about density and poo poo.



I cut out a 1 cm^3 and weighed it on a "food" scale. It weighed 0.0123g, therefore that's my garbage styrofoam density. The biggest piece of foam I had cut out weighed in at 215 g, which worked out to a mas of water that I'd have to make my rocks heavier then of about 38 lbs. That's stupid and heavy, and if I silconed them to my tanks floor they would probably float up and destroy my tank one day. I decided to hollow out the styrofoam after putting some top coats of quikrete concrete.

The concrete I used was your Home Depot brand Quikrete. I didn't add any colours, and just decided that gray was an acceptable rock colour. My initial coating of concrete was applied with a brush and I made it pretty watery. I let it dry for maybe 1 hour before putting on a thicker layer, I then let it cure over night.



I applied numerous coats, and made each concrete batch a bit thicker then before. I'm not a fan of measuring, so I can't really tell how much water I added to each batch, I just added enough to look right. I'd also recommend wearing gloves while doing this. I did those over about 1 week, at night, because that's what you do.

I also hollowed out the styrofoam cores of my rocks and poured concrete in them as well. This was to decrease buoyancy in my finished rocks. I weighed my final rocks, and they were still too loving light, with a density of about 0.8 g/cm^3, so I basically poured a shitload of concrete in a mould and sat the rocks in them. That finally got my rocks to their desired density of slightly above 1 g/cm^3.

I don't have any photos of this phase unfortunately, as my dearest son hulk smashed my phone, and I was too lazy to charge one of the other 20 cameras I've collected over the years, or use my wife's phone.

CURING

Once I was finished with my rocks, and happy with the concrete work, the most crucial step of all was curing the rocks in water so that they will leech out any chemicals and to allow the concrete to harden. I decided to put my rocks in coolers, which I filled with water, and poured a few cups of white vinegar in (this supposedly helps cure the rocks, and I have costco quantities vinegar anyways).

I left the rocks to cure for 3 weeks, and changed the water / vinegar every 4-5 days. I also got busy with life and ended up leaving the rocks on my deck for a few weeks there they got rained on and further cured. So over all, about 5 weeks of curing before I put them in my tank.

/CURING

I then arranged the rocks in my tank, added a mixture of 50/50 crushed coral and argonite substrate, set up the support systems and did a fishless ammonia cycle. I also found a rock I liked while digging around in my backyard, so I disinfected in bleach for a few days, cleaned it, and added that as well.

Once my ammonia and nitrite levels dropped to zero, pH stabilized, and everything seemed to be working I stole of my dads male OB Peacocks and a few of females as well as some random juvenile haps over the next few weeks. I also added some plants from my dads tank (anubias and java fern I think) to help with the ammonia spike of new fish, and because my wife wanted plants in the tank. I thought the Cichlids would eat the plants, but after about 3 months they are still living, although the substrate is all wrong they look pretty lovely.



Below are some of the most recent pictures of the fish tank. I apologize for the lovely quality, I'll ask my wife to take some DSLR pictures with our macro lens later.

Also, the algae is being kept on the back of the tank for dealing with an ammonia spike as we just had a large power outage here in Toronto, and I lost 4 fishes when the tank temp dropped to 63 f :( I saved the rest by putting them in a storage bin with an airstone and heater at my dads house, who had power. I drained the tank as a tree fell on my power lines and was expecting it to take a LOT longer to fix then it really did. So I had to restart my cycle, but all fishes are doing good now!










Here's my current stock;

1 male OB Peacock and 2 related females

3 male Sciaenochromis ahli (Electric Blue Haps)

3 male Copadichromis borleyi

3 male Protomelas steveni

1 male Spotfin Goby

1 male Jeweled Goby

They are all juveniles and I am done adding fish at the moment. I have perfect water chemistry, which I confirm weekly via API test kit, and am doing 20% water changes every 7 days. I keep the temp at 78F and have a pH of 8.3.

I don't like the nozzle in the center of the tank, and will likely remove / patch it up. I might actually make an avatar style 'floating' island, as I have a spare rock I made that is still slightly buoyant. I might tie it down with lead-free fishing weights and have it float in the middle of the tank, hiding the nozzle. That's a project for this spring.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


High five fellow African keeper, too few of us on here. Your tank looks gorgeous, really nice job on it. Your haps will outgrow that tank eventually, most people I've talked to say they will need a 5' tank when fully grown. That should be years down the road though. My collection has moved from a 55g to a 90g and soon to a 120g, and I'm planning for a 240+ a few years from now.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Big tank people - Tank placement. How big of a tank are you willing to put on a non-slab floor? My local LFS says they install up to 210s without worrying about reinforcement, but that seems outrageous to me. Internet wisdom suggests you start worrying at about 100 gallons. The more anecdotal evidence I can get, the better I will sleep at night.

vegemitesandwhich
Nov 17, 2005
DiRt-y Girl
Thanks to the folks who suggested getting some shrimp to keep my betta fed while I was away over Christmas! I came back two weeks later to 1 live betta and 3 'missing' shrimp! Success!

I did lose a bloodfin tetra in my 20g, but I always had one who never really ate (but somehow stayed alive 2+ years...) so I imagine he just didn't get the feeder. This was the first time I left them that long since getting the tetras. I'll just use the death of one as an excuse to get a few more to thicken out the school!

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Slugworth posted:

Big tank people - Tank placement. How big of a tank are you willing to put on a non-slab floor? My local LFS says they install up to 210s without worrying about reinforcement, but that seems outrageous to me. Internet wisdom suggests you start worrying at about 100 gallons. The more anecdotal evidence I can get, the better I will sleep at night.

Well, my 90g + 30g sump sits along a load bearing wall in my living room. It's been there nearly a year, and it's been rock solid. I'll be placing my 120g along an exterior wall in the room above my garage, perpendicular to the floor joists. I hope to start filling it up on Sunday, so I guess we'll see. If it starts to feel sketchy it's going into the basement, but I'm sure it'll be fine.

Tonight I tore down the 55g frontosa tank and moved it downstairs in preparation for the 120. I refilled it and put the eheim classic canister back on, and will move the frontosa back in tomorrow. They're chilling out in a plastic tub overnight.

Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread
So here's the direction I've gone in with my aquarium background.

I started with the standard quikrete over styrofoam. After seeing the results of the first coat of quikrete, I decided the look just wasn't what I was going for. It was too similar to lace rock, and just wasn't what I wanted in the tank. So I set the first build aside and started over.

I started with 48 x 24 in. sheets of styrofoam from home depot, at a cost of about 6 dollars a sheet. I ended up using 6 sheets, but wasted two of those due to mistakes and practice.



I had initially planned to use box cutters ($2), a butane torch ($20) and a soldering gun ($35) to shape the styrofoam. In reality, the soldering gun worked so much more effectively than the other options that it was all that was really used. This is where my wife stepped in, as I am somewhat lacking in the sculpting department. Luckily it turned out to be a hidden talent for her. We decided to make the base first. Many of the background I saw online didn't have a base, but I decided to take this route for a few different reasons: Could use it to make small caves for the peacock gudgeons and apistos, I could use background plants as territory markers by having them separated and I would have flat "rocks" for any species that needed it to spawn without laying anything in the actual substrate.



The rough spots at the top of the base are actually the undersides of caves. In order to ensure that additional pieces corresponded to the cave bottoms, we used page protectors to map out their locations. As we carved the new pieces, we laid the protectors over the bottoms and traced them.



Once we had everything carved like we wanted it, it was time to start the layers of Drylok ($36 a gallon). Drylok Masonry Waterproofer is an alternative to concrete that is fish safe and is often used to seal ponds. It also allows detail to show up better than concrete, and there aren't any PH issues once you fill the aquarium. We have currently finished two coats, and will be laying on the third tomorrow. While there was still some styrofoam visible after the first layer, the second layer covered everything easily. Most people seem to use only two full coats, but I am going with three just to ensure that the styrofoam is completely sealed. We also added standard acrylic paint to the drylok. We used gray for the initial layers, but you can add any color you want. Our later coats and highlighting will be various browns, grays and some black. I just used the bottles that were 97 cents at the local hobby store.



In addition to the background and base, we ended up making five additional pieces. We had a piece that was only a few inches high and served as the bulk of the caves (This piece is unpainted in the picture below). We ended up building caves into the top and bottom of this piece, just to ensure that the fish would have numerous spots to choose from (15 on the background alone). Above that we built a ledge that overlapped the lower piece, so that the cave area below it would have a minimum of current and light. Above that we built a rock that was composed of two pieces, and was purely for ascetics. To the left of all this, we built a larger rock that had an arch and served to cover additional caves with a few built into the sides as well. Because of the way it came out, we call it the elephant rock. After the initial coats are on, we will be attaching the pieces together with silicone before using sponges to add other colors to the rock to make it look more natural. For the silicone, I will be using GE Silicone 1 ($18 for four tubes from Home Depot). Don't use GE Silicone 2, as it has mold inhibitors that will harm your fish.





Our next step is to finish the third coat of gray and plug any little air holes that appear. After that we will silicone the pieces together, add a coat of tan on the visible areas, lightly sift some sand onto the wet paint and then add more color to make the whole thing look more natural. I will also be using hot glue to stretch out some fishing line over certain areas of the background, so that I have a way to keep plants like Java Moss and Liverwort in place while they root. Once all that is finished, it will be time to use more silicone to install it in the aquarium and wait the week for the Drylok to cure. I am also going to paint the outside of the rear aquarium glass a light grayish-blue so that the wall isn't visible beyond the gaps in the background. After the week I'll fill it with water, test it, let it sit for a bit, drain it and repeat until I am satisfied that it will be safe. After that is done, I will drain it to prepare for the addition of substrate.

I will be using a substrate of completely organic topsoil capped with playsand (Walstad method), and will be emersing (not a misspelling) my carpet plants prior to filling the tank. This consists of only adding enough water to reach the top of the substrate, planting the carpet plants (Dwarf Hairgrass, Baby Tears or whatever plant you choose) and then covering the tank with cling wrap to hold in the humidity. Once every other day or so, use a spray bottle on the inside of the aquarium to restore any water that was lost. This should help the carpet plants grow faster and thicker (they never seem to become a carpet for me), allow me to get a jumpstart on a fishless cycle (not that I'll be adding fish any time soon regardless) and cut down on the algae blooms that inevitably arise with a newly planted aquarium. I'll post more pictures of all these later steps as I finish them.

E:

Slugworth posted:

Big tank people - Tank placement. How big of a tank are you willing to put on a non-slab floor? My local LFS says they install up to 210s without worrying about reinforcement, but that seems outrageous to me. Internet wisdom suggests you start worrying at about 100 gallons. The more anecdotal evidence I can get, the better I will sleep at night.

When my 120 was full awhile ago, I had no issues with it being on a raised foundation. Granted there is still a slab down there, but our floor that is up on pillars did just fine supporting it.

Bait and Swatch fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jan 4, 2014

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

How're you attaching it to the aquarium, and are you worried about buoyancy issues? That looks like a lot of styrofoam and it'd shoot out of the tank if it all came loose. :ohdear:

Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread

SynthOrange posted:

How're you attaching it to the aquarium, and are you worried about buoyancy issues? That looks like a lot of styrofoam and it'd shoot out of the tank if it all came loose. :ohdear:

Several lines of silicone parallel to the aquarium bottom, with the same thing on the base, and all edges sealed. Supposedly this works great. Still, I think I'll run a test to see how much weight a few strips of silicone can hold. The last thing I want is for it to start floating a year from now.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

It's looking great in any case, looking forward to further updates.

So back to my fin nipper situation. Ugh, I dont know if it's all the chain loaches, but one is super active in chasing everyone around and trying to nip their fins. Anyone have any advice on what the hell I should do about this? Rehoming a single fish is going to be annoying, and I guess I'll have to watch more.

The cories are looking miserable. One's tail is nearly a stub. Goddammit.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
Here in Korea there's a stew where the principle ingredient is loach. Just saying.

Fusillade
Mar 31, 2012

...and her

BIG FAT BASS

Slugworth posted:

Big tank people - Tank placement. How big of a tank are you willing to put on a non-slab floor? My local LFS says they install up to 210s without worrying about reinforcement, but that seems outrageous to me. Internet wisdom suggests you start worrying at about 100 gallons. The more anecdotal evidence I can get, the better I will sleep at night.


I'd also say that you're fine with up to 120, and yes the weight is going to vary depending on whether the tank is situated against a load-bearing wall or not.

I am currently in the process of BABBY FORMING, so I have consolidated my smaller tanks into a 30 gallon and 55 gallon to minimize bucket slogging. The 300 gallon with its brutes still remains the easiest to maintain, since water changes are managed by hose. In the interest of space, that means my jaguar pair have been reunited :black101:, but the peacock bass have gotten large enough that they are willing to whip around and make the male think twice about pushing them around.

Fusillade fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jan 4, 2014

Ansith
Nov 8, 2010

Elongated Baked Bean
I've been trying to decide what to do with my tank recently. I've had the tank going for 3 months now, I posted about it a while ago. 70L planted and is my first tank.

I feel like I've got it a little bit overstocked now that my Bristlenose has grown (that said, it still looks dead empty most of the time). I've got 6 neon tetras, 5 fully grown leopard corys (had 6, one died a month and a half ago), a BN Pleco. My main concern at the moment is the bristlenose bullying the Corys since the BN got bigger. It didn't worry the corys at first because the BN was tiny but it has tripled in size and the corys are now stuck in a single corner of the tank because they're terrified of the BN.

What I think I might do is take the BN back to my LFS, I do feel bad doing it but the Corys have a lot more personality when they're not stuck in a corner. I think that frees up a fair bit of space in the tank too, there was a bit too much going on down on the bottom of the tank. I was just curious if it would be safe to add some more tetras of a different type to make the middle of the tank a bit more interesting. As I said before, it look pretty dead as it is apart from the neon tetras.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Pretty certain now that it's just that one loach nipping at everyone. Isolated the little bugger into the shrimp/snail tank where he wont do too much damage I hope, and see if the rest of the fish calm down and can heal up. Gives me time to look and see if anyone wants a single loach rear end in a top hat.

Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread
That aggressive bristlenose is completely the opposite of mine. She usually just shuffles along the substrate and ignores everyone else.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
You put an aggressive loach in a tank with shrimp and snails? :stare:

Medicinal Penguin
May 19, 2006
Aquatic reenactment of Friday the 13th incoming.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Eifert Posting posted:

You put an aggressive loach in a tank with shrimp and snails? :stare:

Well, yes, but they're ridiculously prolific. A little culling and excitement will do them good. :unsmigghh: I'm hoping he'll target the trumpet snails and limpets more than the shrimp. We'll see though.

He's also being a lot more subdued after being confined to solitary. That or he only likes nipping at fins, not shells.

And it's a botia, the tiniest of loaches. :3:

Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Jan 5, 2014

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
One of my Otos died. Didn't seem to be any cause.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
I had an otherwise seemingly knowledgeable guy at the lfs tell me otos live 6 months on average, and it's more or less impossible to break a year. I just said 'huh, I didn't know that' and went home to my year and a half old otos.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Naturally my furnace goes out just after dropping a grand on a new tank, and while half my fish are living in a plastic tub. Oh, and our high temp for the next few days is 3 degrees F. Think it's time to go buy a few extra heaters and hope that we can get this fixed asap. Not like I wanted to set up the new tank today or anything. :suicide:

big dig
Sep 11, 2001

Cowboys > Ninjas

Slugworth posted:

Big tank people - Tank placement. How big of a tank are you willing to put on a non-slab floor? My local LFS says they install up to 210s without worrying about reinforcement, but that seems outrageous to me. Internet wisdom suggests you start worrying at about 100 gallons. The more anecdotal evidence I can get, the better I will sleep at night.

My dad has a 500 gallon aquarium as a wall divider. He had a structual engineer friend come in an tell him what he had to do to the basement. He has steel I-Beams parellel under the tank and a masonry support wall underneith that which lies directly on the concrete foundation.

Most insurance companies will have exclusion clauses due to fish tank damage in their fine print.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer

Slugworth posted:

I had an otherwise seemingly knowledgeable guy at the lfs tell me otos live 6 months on average, and it's more or less impossible to break a year. I just said 'huh, I didn't know that' and went home to my year and a half old otos.

I think it was some sort of internal failure. There were no signs of trauma or disease. Even its color was still good.

JuffoWup
Mar 28, 2012
You guys and your fishy corpses. I keep counting one less every week or so in the general population. However, I never find their corpses till the one yesterday. I'm pretty sure my dwarf gourami has decided to take up the rear end in a top hat personality. No proof he is the killer, but he has taken a thing to nipping at my plants and giving fish a hard chase. No nipped fins either.

I would have said the water parameters, but my god, its amazing and wierd. No ammonia, no nitrite, and no nitrate. Zero, nada, zilch. One obvious conclusion would be that I don't have enough fish considering the lack of by products. On the other, I had already hit 16 before the population started to die off. So far, it has been an oto and then about 3 or so cpds. Lesson to learn, stop putting bigger fish with smaller fish.

Phantasium
Dec 27, 2012

Eifert Posting posted:

I think it was some sort of internal failure. There were no signs of trauma or disease. Even its color was still good.

I don't remember where I heard this so take it with a grain of salt, but supposedly Otos are all wild caught, and the process by which they're caught leaves them weak.

All I know is, when I used to go to the LFS to buy some Otos, I'd wait until the day before the next shipment would come in to see which ones would survive in a week, because there were always dead ones in the tank. And if I didn't take this precaution I'd have to come back within a month to get some more because they would die without warning and with no problems in the tank.

demonR6
Sep 4, 2012

There are too many stupid people in the world. I'm not saying we should kill them all or anything. Just take the warning labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself.

Lipstick Apathy
I threw in an Oto into my all shrimp tank going on a year and a half now.. it's still alive. I have two more in my 55 and that just hit the one year mark. There is another in my bookshelf tank that is a little over a year and a half so that six month nonsense is an old fish wives tale. I have heard the wild caught story as well and between that and the treatment they receive in shipping there is no wonder they mostly do not make it.

Honore_De_Balzac
Feb 12, 2013

Does anyone know what happened to the price of Red Cherry Shrimp? I bought 20 a year ago, and I don't remember paying more than 30 dollars. Now it seems every site with a decent price is sold out. I've only been able to find them for 3.50+. Anyone know of a place that will ship to Oklahoma for a good price?

Shima Honnou
Dec 1, 2010

The Once And Future King Of Dicetroit

College Slice

big dig posted:

My dad has a 500 gallon aquarium as a wall divider. He had a structual engineer friend come in an tell him what he had to do to the basement. He has steel I-Beams parellel under the tank and a masonry support wall underneith that which lies directly on the concrete foundation.

Most insurance companies will have exclusion clauses due to fish tank damage in their fine print.

Please get pictures if you can, that sounds loving amazing.

demonR6
Sep 4, 2012

There are too many stupid people in the world. I'm not saying we should kill them all or anything. Just take the warning labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself.

Lipstick Apathy

Honore_De_Balzac posted:

Does anyone know what happened to the price of Red Cherry Shrimp? I bought 20 a year ago, and I don't remember paying more than 30 dollars. Now it seems every site with a decent price is sold out. I've only been able to find them for 3.50+. Anyone know of a place that will ship to Oklahoma for a good price?

Anywhere from a buck fifty up but I would not recommend buying shrimp until the spring because this weather will kill them in shipping. Best if there are no heat or cool packs involved.

Honore_De_Balzac
Feb 12, 2013

Boo, you are right though it is cold as balls here. Do prices go up when the weather is too hot/cold because of the need for more packing material?

Chido
Dec 7, 2003

Butterflies fluttering on my face!

Somebody posted this in Facebook. gotta love the 4 goldfish crammed in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoSKKCzhEtM

Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread

Chido posted:

Somebody posted this in Facebook. gotta love the 4 goldfish crammed in it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoSKKCzhEtM

I'd laugh, but people are going to try and keep fish in that. I can't believe they showed it with clownfish and fake coral.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Oh god all those poor pets.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
What is that? 2 gallons?

A flame angel. They had a flame angel, that's like a four inch marine fish. :gonk:

Extra Smooth Balls
Apr 13, 2005

Wow, it's not the worst rodent cage I have ever seen, but it's a godawful aquarium and if you try keeping reptiles in it they'll either freeze or you'll melt it with the heat lamp.

Whaler
Jan 27, 2013

My oto is almost a year old! Of course I bought him in a pair and his buddy only made it a month. I bought another one and it only made it 2 months. This one is a hardy one! Grown a bit too.

They really aren't bred in captivity? They're nice fish, more expressive to watch than a doll eyed pleco...Hard to find

Bait and Swatch
Sep 5, 2012

Join me, Comrades
In the Star Citizen D&D thread

Whaler posted:

My oto is almost a year old! Of course I bought him in a pair and his buddy only made it a month. I bought another one and it only made it 2 months. This one is a hardy one! Grown a bit too.

They really aren't bred in captivity? They're nice fish, more expressive to watch than a doll eyed pleco...Hard to find

It sounds like that while it's difficult to breed otos, it's not impossible. Most accounts have Cory tankmates breeding in conjunction with them, so you may be able to use that as an indicator if you want to try breeding Otos.

vegemitesandwhich
Nov 17, 2005
DiRt-y Girl
The best part about the Bio Bubble is that it changes when you do... pets are disposable people. When you get bored, just change the Bio Bubble into a different kind of habitat and get a new pet!

On a similar vein, an acquaintance on Facebook got her daughter an approximately 5 gallon fish tank for Christmas, which is now home to two fancy goldfish. Poor fish :(

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Just finished up a busy few days of fishkeeping. Picked up the 120 and moved it in, and then took a PVC shopping trip at Lowes. After plumbing in the wet/dry on the 120, I decided to redo the old plumbing from the 90g that I got used a year ago. After that I moved some of the substrate and all of the rock from the 90 to the 120, and then seeded the wet/dry with the bioballs from the 90s sump. Filled the 120 and matched temps with the 90, then moved all the fish over. My frontosa are still in a tub at this point, so I redid the rockscape in the 90, cleaned it up and filled it, put my seeded canister on, and finally was able to add the fish.

I really like how everything turned out. Too tired to take pics right now, but I'll have some up in the next couple of days. Here is the one pic I took of the whole process

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