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I think that excess material is called "flash". You can get most of it with clippers, or a hobby knife if you're careful. Some spots are way harder to get rid of than others, like on the inside of curves.
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Jan 4, 2014 03:12
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Flash is the plastic seam left on parts when the halves of the mold are pulled apart. Those are just nubs or leftover gate.
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Jan 4, 2014 03:32
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:Leg caps? Didn't really have a better term for the "caps" to the leg's solar panels. Though like Caros said, it's all over the kit. Darker plastics just have really bad nubs, it's unavoidable. quote:This was my first time just clipping out parts then cutting them down with an xacto knife so advice on doing that right would be great because I sucked with it. To be honest my advice would be to sand, but if that's not feasible the key to trimming with a hobby knife is to lay the blade as flat as you can on the plastic and slowly trim the nub. You need to be very careful not to gouge out any plastic (the main disadvantage hobby knives have compared to sanding), and the end result should hopefully be a faint outline of where the nub used to be. Scratch that with your fingernail until the friction makes it look less obvious, then call it a day unless you want to paint. quote:How do you weld the seams? Get plastic cement, apply it to the area where the pieces contact each other, then press the pieces together. Apply pressure for a bit, then let it sit aside for a while. Finish by sanding/trimming away any cement that might have oozed out. It's basically like you were super gluing the pieces, only you're using plastic cement. I recommend using Tamiya's cement, both because you get a brush and because there are two kinds. The regular cement should be what you start with, and then once that's done you go back over the seam with the Extra Thin variety to fix up anything left. As a warning; before you seam weld, make absolutely certain you are done with the piece and haven't hosed anything up. It's pretty drat hard, if not impossible, to pull apart two pieces that have been welded together. quote:Also I really hate to be that guy, but is there a way to do a charge back on a store, because I recieved some stuff broken and contacted them to see if I could just get a refund applied to a more expensive item and no word back after almost a week. Check the store's policy on refunds. And make sure you have proof that the runners were broken in the box. You're not really likely to get a refund though. muike posted:Flash is the plastic seam left on parts when the halves of the mold are pulled apart. Those are just nubs or leftover gate. You're correct in that they're called nubs, but flash is actually just excess plastic on the piece due to a bad/old mold. You'll see a lot of them on resin kits or old MGs. The seam you're talking about is just a mold line. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 03:54
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Another thing to do to get rid of nubs is to drag your knife over the spot almost vertical, it'll level out the plastic and not take too much with it, and get rid of the discolouration.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:06
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:Also I really hate to be that guy, but is there a way to do a charge back on a store, because I recieved some stuff broken and contacted them to see if I could just get a refund applied to a more expensive item and no word back after almost a week. Call the # on your card and tell them your NEW item arrived broken. Explain that you made a reasonable effort to contact the seller with no response. Any CC or bank worth anything should refund you on the spot and then investigate the claim with the seller I have had to do this on charges as much as $700 when sellers wont communicate. They never win as long as you are telling the whole story
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Jan 4, 2014 04:07
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Fauxtool posted:Call the # on your card and tell them your NEW item arrived broken. Explain that you made a reasonable effort to contact the seller with no response. Any CC or bank worth anything should refund you on the spot and then investigate the claim with the seller Alright much appreciated. I contacted Robot4less a few times and gave it a bit of extra time because of the holidays, but especially since I'm offering to purchase a new, more expensive item and my gunpla pen came snapped in half, my patience is running thin.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:18
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:Alright much appreciated. I contacted Robot4less a few times and gave it a bit of extra time because of the holidays, but especially since I'm offering to purchase a new, more expensive item and my gunpla pen came snapped in half, my patience is running thin. I'd give the store a phone call if you haven't yet. R4L has been pretty reasonable with dead on arrival items for me, but contacting them over the internet was much slower than getting them on the phone and sorting it out (took like a week over email vs. about 5 minutes on the phone).
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Jan 4, 2014 04:33
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Midjack posted:I'd give the store a phone call if you haven't yet. R4L has been pretty reasonable with dead on arrival items for me, but contacting them over the internet was much slower than getting them on the phone and sorting it out (took like a week over email vs. about 5 minutes on the phone). I've tried that too and went straight to answering machine. I'm gonna give both another shot tomorrow and go from there.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:38
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BlitzBlast posted:You're correct in that they're called nubs, but flash is actually just excess plastic on the piece due to a bad/old mold. You'll see a lot of them on resin kits or old MGs. Anyway speaking of store annoyances, Hobbwave are on vacation until the fifth which means I'm going to have to wait like another week before I get the poo poo I ordered last week.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:44
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:I've tried that too and went straight to answering machine. I'm gonna give both another shot tomorrow and go from there. That surprises me - all three times I've been there in person I've had to wait to pay while guy at the cash register has been finishing up with someone who called so I'd expect the phone to be answered. That said, the guy at the cash register has been a different high school aged guy every time, and he's also been by himself and trying to help people in the store while also managing the register and phone so you may be having bad luck. In any case you've definitely made a good faith effort to contact them.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:44
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Midjack posted:That surprises me - all three times I've been there in person I've had to wait to pay while guy at the cash register has been finishing up with someone who called so I'd expect the phone to be answered. That said, the guy at the cash register has been a different high school aged guy every time, and he's also been by himself and trying to help people in the store while also managing the register and phone so you may be having bad luck. At this point I'm just going for a refund. I was going to put that money towards a HG DX, but since I found one today at hobbytown for 20 out the door, I'm just getting my money back.
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Jan 4, 2014 04:56
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This isn't the first time I've heard complaints about Robots4Less and their prices aren't even that good, so i dunno if there's any real reason to use them. Hobbywave sent me a $75 kit with a box that had somehow been badly crushed before it was even packed and refused to respond to my emails so gently caress 'em.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:23
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Bimmi posted:This isn't the first time I've heard complaints about Robots4Less and their prices aren't even that good, so i dunno if there's any real reason to use them. Honestly I just prefer Amazon but they had a sale on and I took advantage of it. Shame shipping wound up negating that sale.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:49
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I've had good results with hobbywave every time, but the fact that they are constantly sold out of kits is a real annoyance.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:51
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Monaghan posted:I've had good results with hobbywave every time, but the fact that they are constantly sold out of kits is a real annoyance. That was my issue with Gundam Store and More. That and I paid them for parts and never got them or a response back.
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Jan 4, 2014 05:53
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I only ever buy kits from HLJ or Amazon if it's something I can get for like 10 bucks (e.g. clanche custom, g bouncer, g xiphos) e: and I think I ordered from 1999.co.jp before too, they're also good and so is amiami
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Jan 4, 2014 07:19
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muike posted:I only ever buy kits from HLJ or Amazon if it's something I can get for like 10 bucks (e.g. clanche custom, g bouncer, g xiphos) Amazon has some really good deals every now and then, plus prime gives me free 2 day shipping so there's that. I like my local Hobbytown, but them keeping things in stock never happens.
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Jan 4, 2014 07:23
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I would go to Hobbytown all the time if the nearest one wasn't two hours away.
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Jan 4, 2014 07:24
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It really makes me sad, because myself and best friend are the only real people who purchase Gunpla there so they barely keep stock. I wish it were as good as the Schaumberg location that I go to with my fiancee because that place is Gunpla heaven and also the only place I've ever seen stock a perfect grade.
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Jan 4, 2014 07:29
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I've been getting my kits through Gundam Planet, they seem to be pretty good price and stock wise.
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Jan 4, 2014 07:41
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I guess it's time for the store dump./toy/ posted:Your Local Hobby Shop Also a page or two back someone said all the HG SEED kits were bad. That's not true, Stargazer and M1 Astray were excellent.  EDIT: Also Tatsu Hobby is starting up a parts order service. Who knows if Bandai will let them do it (and for that matter if the rumors of the upcoming online service are true), but the prices are pretty decent. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 07:51
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So, i started on the Fenice I got from Luminaflare, for Christmas. drat these things are tiny fiddly pieces go everywhere ow my finger bags of fun. Gunpla owns, even if your motor skills are completely hosed.
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Jan 4, 2014 13:49
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Neddy Seagoon posted:They really were awesome Someone actually wrote a god drat essay on GN Physics
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Jan 4, 2014 14:28
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. I think what made them so good was they actually tried to hammer out a basic set of physics for the GN Particles, rather than throw out bullshit as they went (like in Season 2). It made a lot of the Earth force's attacks a lot more clever when it's something like "we know GN particles jam radio transmissions, so we'll scatter a shitload of small transmitters over a wide area of space and see which stop transmitting" rather than just "get'cher guns boys, we're gonna go fly right at them Gundams and we'll win because Ace Officer No.31489 says we will by doing the same tactics as last time!"
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So, this is about 2 hours of progress for me. gently caress those tiny stickers, seriously. Still, i got the most fiddly bit out of the way i think. 8 Parts and 2 Stickers in just the head. 
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Jan 4, 2014 14:48
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So, I dropped my Zaku Amazing when getting it out of the box to continue work on it and one of the clips on the missile pods broke. Is there a fix for it without glue? If not where can I get a replacement piece?
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Jan 4, 2014 15:17
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AzMiLion posted:So, this is about 2 hours of progress for me. gently caress those tiny stickers, seriously. For stickers you should use tweezers or the blade of your hobby knife to apply them. Saves you a lot of hassle, and makes them easier to remove later if you ever want to just paint them. I wish I could comment about the build but... well, the picture quality is kind of terrible. Try getting your camera to focus more next time. Anyways from what I can see there doesn't seem to be too many bad nubs, so that's good. Luminaflare posted:Is there a fix for it without glue? If not where can I get a replacement piece? No, you'll have to glue/weld it back together. There used to be various parts replacement services in the US, but Bandai shut them all down for currently unknown reasons. I guess you could buy another Amazing Booster, but honestly it'll do you a lot more good in the long run to learn how to fix this stuff.
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Jan 4, 2014 16:30
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BlitzBlast posted:Also a page or two back someone said all the HG SEED kits were bad. That's not true, Stargazer and M1 Astray were excellent. That was me. In my defense, I'll point out that the M1 was a new design they snuck into the SEED HG line when they did the HD re-release.
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Jan 4, 2014 18:43
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 So yeah, first gunpla I ever did done!, It's not the greatest and i need to go back and clean up some bits that I missed. But I'm pretty pleased with the way it came out! Even managed to get all the stickers on. Took me about 6 hours to put together.
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Jan 4, 2014 19:01
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AzMiLion posted:
The best part about that kit is if you break something its canon.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:03
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What's that transparent thing attached to the left shoulder? Is that a beam cape? VVVVVV God drat, I think I have to stop putting off Build Fighters now. Well Manicured Man fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 20:29
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Well Manicured Man posted:What's that transparent thing attached to the left shoulder? Is that a beam cape? Yup, it also has an optional scooter like addition. The fighter that owns it is Italian so he needed a Vespa for his MS you see. 
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Jan 4, 2014 20:33
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Fauxtool posted:The best part about that kit is if you break something its canon. It came with some of the Wing parts as well, might replace the V-fin with the classic yellow fin. fake edit: no i won't cause it looks bad. Well Manicured Man posted:What's that transparent thing attached to the left shoulder? Is that a beam cape? Yeah, It's a beam cape type deal, He's not used it that much yet. Still there's a bunch of great suits in Build Fighters and i't convincing people(like me!) to go build gunpla. Slghtly less horrible shot of the Fenice, found a pose for it. 
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Jan 4, 2014 20:34
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That's a much better shot, but it'd do you some good to zoom in a little. Full body shots look nice and all, but unless you have a really good spot for taking photos you'll end up with empty space cluttering most of the shot. Being able to see more detail on the kit more than makes up for whatever parts that end up out of frame too. In other news, since my plaplate finally came in I'm starting work on that 00 grunt.  I've painted the GN drive I plan to use (aaaah that attempt at candy coating panel lines looks awful), and am halfway through modding the first of the 0 Raiser's binders. I will be incredibly surprised if the completed kit can even hold the drat thing without me topcoating the hell out of the wrist.
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Jan 4, 2014 22:28
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I've started painting the Unicorn Ka I completed a few months ago. I'm going to try spraying the backs of the psycoframe parts with the shiniest thing I can find and see what that does; if I don't like what happens I plan to candy coat the psycoframe and we'll see what we get. If I go that route this will be my first attempt at candying anything; I have the translucent sprues to practice on a bit before I commit to the parts. I'm in disassembly right now; the only casualties so far are 1 peg on the bazooka and one of the details on the side skirts. The only thing I don't have apart yet are both legs.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:23
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So I've finished my first Gunpla build, the Zaku Amazing, unfortunately they were a few breakages during construction, I don't have any sandpaper to polish up the filing with and I don't have my Gundam Markers yet so I used a Sakura Micron fine liner but overall I think it came out quite well for my first build. Album full of progress shots.    
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Jan 4, 2014 23:57
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Luminaflare posted:So I've finished my first Gunpla build, the Zaku Amazing, unfortunately they were a few breakages during construction, I don't have any sandpaper to polish up the filing with and I don't have my Gundam Markers yet so I used a Sakura Micron fine liner but overall I think it came out quite well for my first build. Better than my first build. Admittedly mine was a MG, but that still looks drat good for a beginner. 
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Jan 5, 2014 02:06
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Over Christmas, I bought the new HG Wing and Double X Gundams, and you know, the one thing I'm really digging about this new All Gundams thing is that they're making the parts so standardized, especially the joints, that you can swap parts and make your own (admittedly pretty simple) kitbashes so easily. I've experimented with swapping the Double X's waist and torso with the Wing's and the result turned out pretty neat--and the Wing Gundam's wings attached to the back of the Double X's torso a lot easier than I expected (although not so much the other way around, I guess the pegs connecting the Double X's lunar panels and satellite cannons to its torso are just different enough in size that it doesn't stay on the Wing Gundam's torso very well), and it still turns into Bird Mode pretty well. I've also gotten the RG Freedom Gundam. I was a little worried since my first kit I ever built was the RG Zaku Custom and it's proven itself pretty fragile and a little hard to pose, but the Freedom was surprisingly stable and can pull off a wider range of motion than I was used to:  Right now I've got it in a sort of kung fu stance with one leg raised completely off the ground, which is something I could never picture my RG Zaku doing without an action base... although the Freedom's big ol' wings help it balance easier by acting like two legs of a tripod sort of thing.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:44
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Well Manicured Man posted:Over Christmas, I bought the new HG Wing and Double X Gundams, and you know, the one thing I'm really digging about this new All Gundams thing is that they're making the parts so standardized, especially the joints, that you can swap parts and make your own (admittedly pretty simple) kitbashes so easily. Yeah this was the main goal of All Gundam. Some of the Build Fighters kits are similarly compatible, though sadly the new Late UC kits don't really mesh that well due to their smaller stature. They still use the same polycaps at least, so if you mod the parts a little you can get it to work. quote:I've also gotten the RG Freedom Gundam. I was a little worried since my first kit I ever built was the RG Zaku Custom and it's proven itself pretty fragile and a little hard to pose, but the Freedom was surprisingly stable Bandai was breaking new ground with the first two RGs, so they were pretty fragile. Everything since then has been much more stable, though to be honest the RG Freedom isn't actually all that hot balance-wise. If you keep the wings folded up like that it can do a lot of standing poses, but if you even try and open them you'll basically have to get an Action Base. Same goes for all of the other (mobile suit) RG SEED kits, the big old backpacks absolutely tank their balance.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:56
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You put that Feeedom in Full Burst Mode NOW young man. It's not piloted by Domon.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:58
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Stupid question, is RG Freedom compatible with the HG Meteor packs?
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Jan 5, 2014 06:24
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