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Antinumeric posted:Were you trying to shred nails? Just branches within the rated size. Like I said, it appears to be a design flaw with the pin coming out. Chippers tend to destroy themselves over time anyways due to all the vibration and impacts.
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Jan 3, 2014 21:01
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I've been working on these arch/hanging pressure tank gong things, because ~*sculpture*~ It's a royal pain in the dick trying to get a perfect radius and build H beam from scratch.  e: I'm also way out of practice with 7018. I used to be able to do vertical up without any trouble at all, now I'm occasionally grinding out and rewelding horizontal position fuckups. Welding is not at all like riding a bike. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 19:20
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Hypnolobster posted:I've been working on these arch/hanging pressure tank gong things, because ~*sculpture*~ So weld it down hand!
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Jan 4, 2014 19:45
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The real solution is to just MIG it and never stick weld anything again because it's terribly un-fun, but I'm between MIGs right now and all I've got is my idealarc and a giant miller 330 tig. e: this job was the last time I ran 7018, and coming back to it and floundering around like an idiot is insanely frustrating.  Bunch of 28" beam covered in god knows what kind of paint stacked up for concrete holding   Got sunk into the ground with a ridiculous amount of concrete  And it holds up a very old railroad signal tower Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 20:48
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I do a lot of metal casting, but am tired of dealing with wood/coal/gas-fired furnaces, so I'm building an induction furnace. Just got it working the other day, made a file red hot: http://i.imgur.com/HajM8A6.jpg
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Jan 4, 2014 22:07
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Not really a metalworking question but I figure you guys might have an answer: I recently got an awesome old Stanley thermos from my dad but the o-ring on the outer stopper is broken. As far as I can tell, Stanley went to poo poo when they got bought by PMI so they no longer make the old no. 13 stopper which my bottle has. Is there anywhere I could try and source a similarly sized o-ring from?
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Jan 4, 2014 23:00
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Is it just a circle of rubber? Measure it, and then google for "rubber gasket" or "rubber o-ring" with the dimensions you want. There's bajillions made in every size imaginable so the real problem will be finding somewhere that will sell you a single one.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:27
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E1M2 posted:I do a lot of metal casting, but am tired of dealing with wood/coal/gas-fired furnaces, so I'm building an induction furnace. Just got it working the other day, made a file red hot: http://i.imgur.com/HajM8A6.jpg I love how the massive amount of IR is confusing your camera into thinking it's fluorescent pink. What's that running on, regular 60Hz line power or something more exotic?
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Jan 5, 2014 00:16
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Just branches within the rated size. Like I said, it appears to be a design flaw with the pin coming out. Chippers tend to destroy themselves over time anyways due to all the vibration and impacts. I have the same problem with mine, a pin came out and hosed up all kinds of poo poo. Since there about a million screws in the way I haven't been bothered to open it and assess the damage.
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Jan 5, 2014 01:38
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door Door door posted:Not really a metalworking question but I figure you guys might have an answer: I recently got an awesome old Stanley thermos from my dad but the o-ring on the outer stopper is broken. As far as I can tell, Stanley went to poo poo when they got bought by PMI so they no longer make the old no. 13 stopper which my bottle has. Is there anywhere I could try and source a similarly sized o-ring from? Leperflesh posted:Is it just a circle of rubber? Measure it, and then google for "rubber gasket" or "rubber o-ring" with the dimensions you want. There's bajillions made in every size imaginable so the real problem will be finding somewhere that will sell you a single one. The first places I would look are McMaster Carr and Grainger.
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Jan 5, 2014 01:41
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McMaster Carr totally has o-rings that should work, and they sell them in packs as small as 25. Thanks for the advice.
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Jan 5, 2014 02:24
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kastein posted:I love how the massive amount of IR is confusing your camera into thinking it's fluorescent pink. quote:What's that running on, regular 60Hz line power or something more exotic? Something more exotic, it has a control loop to tune the inverter driving the work coil to the resonant frequency of the work piece. For the file (and most other small pieces of steel I've tried) it's around 43 kHz. Hoping to weld up an iron crucible this week and try to melt some brass. E1M2 fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 02:34
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door Door door posted:Not really a metalworking question but I figure you guys might have an answer: I recently got an awesome old Stanley thermos from my dad but the o-ring on the outer stopper is broken. As far as I can tell, Stanley went to poo poo when they got bought by PMI so they no longer make the old no. 13 stopper which my bottle has. Is there anywhere I could try and source a similarly sized o-ring from? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STANLEY-Rep...=item4aca98a7d2  edit: If your bottle doesn't match the numbers in that listing, post the model number off the bottom of the bottle and ill find you a stopper. iForge fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 06:12
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E1M2 posted:Yeah! It was a bright orange when I took that pic, it totally overwhelms my poor phone's CCD. That thing is absolutely beautiful. Do you have a schematic or anything for it? I'd love to give something like that a try.
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Jan 5, 2014 09:04
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Well, after starting my tirehammer build I ended up finding a 50lbs Little Giant trip hammer from 1901. It sat for awhile due to not having a motor or even somewhere to plug it in.   After getting a 2hp motor and running a new circuit in my shop, I have finally got this bastard running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtgVaWgZ6l0
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Jan 6, 2014 03:55
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Aww gently caress yeah, congrats. Make sure you build some kind of shield to protect your face when that spring eventually explodes. Great little hammers. Keep it oiled and greased and it'll last a long drat time.
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Jan 6, 2014 08:27
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Jewcoon posted:That thing is absolutely beautiful. Do you have a schematic or anything for it? I'd love to give something like that a try. Thanks for the complement! I don't have a schematic because I built it by the seat of my pants with a bunch of parts from surplus stores. If you'd like to do something like this yourself the schematics at http://www.uzzors2k.4hv.org/index.php?page=pllinductionheater1 and http://www.instructables.com/id/30-kVA-Induction-Heater/ are a good place to start. halonx: Sweet hammer! I just got done doing working an air hammer for a local shop: http://i.imgur.com/JtzKIMe.jpg. I would whole-heartedly recommend looking up Clifton Ralph's power hammer videos on dvd. They're expensive but if you're gonna be doing stuff with a power hammer they're an incredibly bang for the buck, and he's a real hoot to listen to and very educational. E1M2 fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Jan 6, 2014 |
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Jan 6, 2014 09:32
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Slung Blade posted:Aww gently caress yeah, congrats. Yeah, the shield is something I want to do, but I am struggling with where/how to attach it. I definitely want to do it though since it appears the spring has been repaired once already.
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Jan 6, 2014 14:04
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E1M2 posted:Thanks for the complement! I don't have a schematic because I built it by the seat of my pants with a bunch of parts from surplus stores. If you'd like to do something like this yourself the schematics at http://www.uzzors2k.4hv.org/index.php?page=pllinductionheater1 and http://www.instructables.com/id/30-kVA-Induction-Heater/ are a good place to start. Wow, that's crazy. Most air hammers I've seen need a super beefy foundation pad under them. How long will that pallet last?
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Jan 6, 2014 17:16
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Slung Blade posted:Wow, that's crazy. Most air hammers I've seen need a super beefy foundation pad under them. How long will that pallet last? I hope that isn't the permanent setup, according to the original documentation that came with my little 50lbs hammer there should be a substantial concrete base ( http://www.littlegianthammer.com/plans.html ). Mine is sitting on my 8" shop slab with a 3/4" rubber horse stall mat so I'm a bit nervous about my shop floor cracking.
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Jan 6, 2014 17:40
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halonx posted:I hope that isn't the permanent setup, according to the original documentation that came with my little 50lbs hammer there should be a substantial concrete base ( http://www.littlegianthammer.com/plans.html ). It is the permanent setup. I think it's there so you can easily pick up the hammer with a fork lift. I was concerned about it too at first, but it seemed sturdy enough while using it. I'll talk to the owner about it next time I see him.
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Jan 6, 2014 19:51
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E1M2 posted:It is the permanent setup. I think it's there so you can easily pick up the hammer with a fork lift. I was concerned about it too at first, but it seemed sturdy enough while using it. I'll talk to the owner about it next time I see him. If it works, it works. I'm definitely not following the recommendations right now. I think the size of the base they recommend is supposed to cut down on sound/vibrations elsewhere. I've also seen them mounted on railroad ties. I think I'm definitely going to anchor mine down though, it was doing a bit of walking while I used it.
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Jan 6, 2014 20:31
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I have a Diacro bender mounted on a 4" cement slab mounted on a pallet, which is the best of all worlds 
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Jan 9, 2014 19:15
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Some of you might get a kick out of this. Metal printing and machining all in one. http://youtu.be/s9IdZ2pI5dA
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Jan 11, 2014 07:47
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Holy crap that thing is amazing. I don't even want to ask how much it would cost.
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Jan 11, 2014 15:34
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That thing is awesome. Thread related content: I just got a lathe for the best price ever. It's a South Bend, 30s or 40s era, with autofeed and threading. Along with like 100lbs of tooling and stuff, one of those things that steadies the middle of the workpiece, a tailstock with a drill chuck, etc etc. I go back to pick up the mounting stand on Monday evening. It needs some work, the ways feel OK (might need cleanup and adjustment, not sure) but all the handwheels have a lot of slop in them, so I'm afraid some of the gears may be rather worn. Either way it was free and it has 2+ feet of workable space so I jumped on it. I'm not sure what happened to my luck but I've now got a free bridgeport, a free lathe, and I pick up my almost free boatanchor stick welder with TIG support, a pedal, and HF start within a week or two. 2014 is pretty ok with me so far. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jan 12, 2014 |
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Jan 12, 2014 01:58
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Every lathe I've worked on had a lot of slop on the hand wheel. I think they're supposed to have some backlash. Idk though I'm a welder not a machinist.
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Jan 12, 2014 04:48
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How much is a lot? You might get some out by fiddling with the split nut. If not, you'll have to live with it. As long as you always come back to your position from the same direction(and towards the cut) you can keep it pretty accurate.
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Jan 12, 2014 05:50
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fps_bill posted:Every lathe I've worked on had a lot of slop on the hand wheel. I think they're supposed to have some backlash. Idk though I'm a welder not a machinist. Ideally hand wheels on lathes and mills have imperceptible slop/backlash in them, although a certain amount is a fact of life. It's a symptom of at least one gear being worn or loose and harms precision.
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Jan 12, 2014 07:15
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I haven't hosed with it more except for hauling it inside just now. Cleaned some dirt off the nameplate and it's a South Bend Model A, I can get the catalog number tomorrow evening. That fucker is heavy, but minus the motor and work table/base it bolts to, I can pick it up reasonably easily myself, so I'm betting it's around 200-250. It would have been a hell of a lot easier to roll down to the basement door if I'd thought to air the righthand tire on my dolly up before starting...  At least it's inside, and all the baskets of semi rusty, semi disgusting tooling are also inside. I will probably need to pick up a soda blaster to clean all this poo poo off... which is a crying shame, I tell you. Another random find I was quite pleased to discover: an entire SAE machinists tap/die set in a metal carrying case, doesn't appear to have ever been used. It was buried in the pile of tooling. Chinese origin, but they look reasonably sharp. One bucket had 10-15lbs of reamers in it, too. Assuming I get the rest of the jeep emptied out, I'm going back for the table/base tomorrow evening. For now I'm passing out because I'm wiped after hauling all that stuff inside. At this point all I need is a free bandsaw, a giant drill press, and a plasma cutter and I have basically my whole dream machine shop set up, maybe I should actually pour cement in the basement because I really don't want all this stuff rusting now.
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Jan 14, 2014 06:57
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man what line do I get into for free lathes and 100 lbs of loose tooling
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Jan 14, 2014 07:27
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I accumulate a decent amount of copper scrap through work and hate having strips and balls of copper everywhere. If I wanted to invest in a mini electric furnace what would you recommend? I've seen pretty much the same model on various YouTube videos and on Google but all the online websites look pretty sketchy. I'd prefer a brick and mortar store to avoid shipping fees but its not necessary. The ones I've seen can hold between 1 and 2 kilos depending on the model. I've seen them online for $250-$350. I'd like to be able to pour 1 or 2 kilo bars at a time for easy stacking and storage.
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Jan 14, 2014 23:55
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You probably won't break even for years.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:03
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I know. I think it would be a fun hobby. Like I said in IRC, back when I played WoW I spent 90% of my time mining ore and smelting it into bars. I'm weird.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:41
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As a former MMO player, I can absolutely empathise with that attitude.
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Jan 15, 2014 03:43
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Serious idea though, if you want to collect old aluminum cylinder heads and intake manifolds and smelt them properly, I would actually probably buy the ingots up to a certain amount, I'm probably going to need some soon for a project I want to start. (but haven't had time to work on at all, so, well, standard operating procedure for me I guess. At least now I have the mill and lathe I'll need for that project.)
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Jan 15, 2014 04:11
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Does anyone have some 1/4" copper plate lying around that they want to get rid of? I'm going to make a couple heatsinks and need 4 ~2x2" pieces.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:55
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I accumulate a decent amount of copper scrap through work and hate having strips and balls of copper everywhere. If I wanted to invest in a mini electric furnace what would you recommend? I've seen pretty much the same model on various YouTube videos and on Google but all the online websites look pretty sketchy. I'd prefer a brick and mortar store to avoid shipping fees but its not necessary. The ones I've seen can hold between 1 and 2 kilos depending on the model. I've seen them online for $250-$350. I'd like to be able to pour 1 or 2 kilo bars at a time for easy stacking and storage. Electric kilns seem to have a particularly high markup to the end-user, it seems to make a lot of sense to build one yourself, especially because they're actually really, really simple in design- David Gingery of Build Your Own Metalworking Shop From Scrap fame published a book on the subject that I have a copy of. All you really need is a stepless heat control unit (the kind you can buy as a replacement part for electric ranges or kilns), a nichrome wire coil (or the raw wire and a mandrel), and castable refractory cement or (for some design) firebricks. The actual electronics are simple enough that you can (supposedly) build one just fine without knowing much of anything, and you don't need any fancy tools either. I'd like to build one for annealing sheet metal but haven't gotten around to it yet.
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Jan 15, 2014 17:29
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Hey, quick question. I am in the process of building a little forge on a steel table. I'm down to assembling the piping for the blower, and I'm having a bit of trouble deciding on an appropriate type of material to use. The simplest and cheapest to get my hands on is galvanized air ducts. 1. Will I die from zinc or other nasty fumes? Since the piping will all be below the actual fire/heat, I'm thinking that I should be fine, but figure I should ask anyway. 2. Any recommended diameter? Will this actually impact much (say 3" vs 6") - or is it really the blower's output that matters. 3. About the venting area where the air meets the fuel: for those that do have home forges, what's more desirable in general, a larger venting area or a smaller more precise area?
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Jan 15, 2014 18:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Electric kilns seem to have a particularly high markup to the end-user, it seems to make a lot of sense to build one yourself, especially because they're actually really, really simple in design- David Gingery of Build Your Own Metalworking Shop From Scrap fame published a book on the subject that I have a copy of. All you really need is a stepless heat control unit (the kind you can buy as a replacement part for electric ranges or kilns), a nichrome wire coil (or the raw wire and a mandrel), and castable refractory cement or (for some design) firebricks. The actual electronics are simple enough that you can (supposedly) build one just fine without knowing much of anything, and you don't need any fancy tools either. I'd like to build one for annealing sheet metal but haven't gotten around to it yet. Isn't nichrome max rated temp(~900C?) just a bit under the melting point of copper(~1100C) though? This is just from a quick google of temps so maybe there are exceptions. I think Kanthal wire can go a bit higher, which maybe enough. I don't have any experience with diy kilns, just would be concerned about the life of the heating wires.
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