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Where did you get the fan nozzles? Also soaking clogged nozzles in vinegar overnight works like a charm.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:56
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Beach Bum posted:So my 95 NA's heater just quit about two weeks ago mid-drive. Went from cooking me to freezing me in less than a minute. I went all over the bay looking for leaks or anything of the sort, and there is no leakage into the cabin. I have not lost a drop of coolant. The flaps on the airbox are functioning just as they were as well. I flushed the entire cooling system and refilled with 30/70 and I've got a smidgeon of heat back, but nothing like the rolling oven that let me ride top-down in freezing weather. I studied the flow rate by pulling off the heater input hose while running the car, and it seemed weak as hell, which is odd because when flushing the cooling system with the hose, everything seemed to flow juuust fine. What would you guys suggest checking? You guys got nothing on this? Had to order the thermostat. Should be here later this week.
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Jan 5, 2014 05:22
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Joe Mama posted:I just did the washer swap a couple weeks ago because the stock ones were hopelessly plugged and/or messed up. The new ones have a perfect fan pattern and hit about 2/3 the way up the windshield on my NB. Cost me $14. Part number? Source?
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Jan 5, 2014 05:42
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Jesus, you ever heard of Google?! Just kidding. They are Mazda # EC01-67-50YA, cross to a Ford # YL8Z-17603-AA. Between the two numbers you should be able to find them for roughly $10 each, I got lucky on the price. I believe I got them off eBay through a Mazda parts warehouse type place.
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Jan 5, 2014 21:46
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I did a Google search. But some people were having aiming problems with some part numbers. But never said which ones.
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Jan 5, 2014 23:05
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NC owners with the 5 speed. Doing any if you find taking off in 1st a bit difficult? Maybe it's because I've only been driving a manual for half a year, but my neutral to first shifts aren't great. Took much gas and it jumps, not enough and it quickly stutters. I can route through the others very cleanly, no disruptions. Are most manuals like this? I have a test size of 1.
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Jan 8, 2014 00:08
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I don't have much experience with the NC box, but I think it might be the same as the NA/NB; however, my experience with Miata transmissions is that you need to double clutch and rev match to get the transmission to get into 1st while moving. But, you shouldn't be going into first after you're moving unless if you're at an autocross. If you're rev matching and downshifting for giggles when coming to a stop to practice your heel-toe, alright cool, but you shouldn't be shifting into first while moving.
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Jan 8, 2014 00:15
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Phone posted:I don't have much experience with the NC box, but I think it might be the same as the NA/NB; however, my experience with Miata transmissions is that you need to double clutch and rev match to get the transmission to get into 1st while moving. But, you shouldn't be going into first after you're moving unless if you're at an autocross. If you're rev matching and downshifting for giggles when coming to a stop to practice your heel-toe, alright cool, but you shouldn't be shifting into first while moving. Sorry, I'm talking about starts specifically.
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Jan 8, 2014 00:59
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If it's anything like the 5-speed in my Protege, you just need to let the clutch out a bit slower compared to the other shifts.
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Jan 8, 2014 01:03
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1791apparel posted:Sorry, I'm talking about starts specifically. Gotcha. Takes time and practice to build up the motor skills. Then you can hop into your friends car and make it seem like you've never driven manual before as you slip the clutch at 4k at every shift. 
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Jan 8, 2014 02:27
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Phone posted:Gotcha. Takes time and practice to build up the motor skills. Then you can hop into your friends car and make it seem like you've never driven manual before as you slip the clutch at 4k at every shift. I passed on buying a car once because when the seller drove it he had to slip from 3-4k just to get it moving. I could practically hear the clutch crying. E: also a Subaru sales guy did the same exact thing to brand new STI. From a dead cold start in the middle of winter. Poor car.
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Jan 8, 2014 05:38
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Phone posted:Gotcha. Takes time and practice to build up the motor skills. Then you can hop into your friends car and make it seem like you've never driven manual before as you slip the clutch at 4k at every shift. It's getting better, just seems touchy. It's the driver I'm sure. Slipping the clutch means dropping it at high rpms right? Can you explain?
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Jan 8, 2014 15:43
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Slipping the clutch is between having the clutch fully engaged and fully disengaged. Cars have dry clutches, and slipping the clutch is what wears out the friction ring, wet clutches/motorcycles can slip the clutch all day because it's immersed in oil. Slipping the clutch is necessary because you can't fully engage the clutch from a standstill (well... without murdering the poo poo out of your drivetrain on a regular basis). So when you're in 1st or reverse, you bring the revs up a little and slowly engage the clutch (let out the pedal). Perfect practice makes it perfect and you'll get better at it over time. Tl;dr: go check out how it works for car clutches
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Jan 8, 2014 16:04
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Phone posted:Slipping the clutch is between having the clutch fully engaged and fully disengaged. Cars have dry clutches, and slipping the clutch is what wears out the friction ring, wet clutches/motorcycles can slip the clutch all day because it's immersed in oil. Thanks for the info!
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Jan 8, 2014 18:35
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I've been driving my NC with 6 speed for almost 3 years now and first gear/reverse will still give me trouble on occasion. Even 1-2 shifts can be tricky if I am not paying attention.
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Jan 8, 2014 20:48
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GOD IS BED posted:I've been driving my NC with 6 speed for almost 3 years now and first gear/reverse will still give me trouble on occasion. Even 1-2 shifts can be tricky if I am not paying attention. The hardest part for me is getting in my driveway without stuttering. I need to go virtually 3mph to not hit.
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Jan 8, 2014 21:26
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How much are you supposed to slip the clutch when reversing? I reverse slowly so fully engaging makes the car chug but I feel like I'm doing something wrong when I pretty much slip my way through the entire reversing process. I only started driving manual a few months ago and I gotta say it feels like a constant battle between driving smoothly and not wearing the poo poo out of your clutch.
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Jan 8, 2014 21:31
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I slip the clutch the entire time while reversing. Clutches are tough and all of the ones I've pulled out of my cars have been practically new - most of what kills them is people who slip them at speed, I think. If you can smell it, stop doing whatever makes you smell it. Otherwise don't be afraid to give it a little slip to make it smooth or keep it at a safe speed that you are comfortable with. I release the clutch when reversing if for some reason I want to reverse quickly (Rockfords) but that is usually not what I want to do. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jan 8, 2014 |
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Jan 8, 2014 21:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:most of what kills them is people who slip them at speed, I think. About that: when I'm above 2nd gear, I'll still release the clutch gradually (not as slow as from a standstill, but I don't just drop it). Should I be just dropping it instead, provided that the revs are somewhat matched?
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Jan 8, 2014 21:46
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Whatever's smooth. You'll find it with practice and different cars have different rhythms. Usually depending on how much gas you're giving it, you'll alter your 'clutch method': if you're going at full throttle and shifting at redline you're basically going to want to clutch in and out as fast as you can and sacrifice some mechanical sympathy for speed.
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Jan 8, 2014 21:49
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Clutch's are tough to kill. My Honda had 120k on the first clutch, with the first 80k coming from my grandmother who would be in 5th by 25. Don't drop it, don't baby it, just be smooth. If you drive it like you are in a Fast and Furious movie, expect your clutch to die. I've never owned a car that I could let the clutch all the way out in reverse and not go shooting somewhere.
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Jan 8, 2014 21:53
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At speed, all gear shifts should be quick and have a quick but gradual release of the clutch. You want to be smooth in all of your inputs, and you can be quick and smooth, but it'll take time. If the weather is decent, I can try to do some Best Motoring footage (get it because it's going to be pointed at the pedals and you use your feet) to give you a better idea.
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Jan 8, 2014 21:56
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Thanks for the info. My fear is that I'm slowly killing my clutch so it's good to hear that they're tough.Phone posted:If the weather is decent, I can try to do some Best Motoring footage (get it because it's going to be pointed at the pedals and you use your feet) to give you a better idea. You don't need to trouble yourself but if you felt like doing it for fun, I'm sure others (including me) would find it helpful.
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Jan 8, 2014 22:10
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TrinityOfDeath posted:Don't drop it, don't baby it, just be smooth. If you drive it like you are in a Fast and Furious movie, expect your clutch to die. Granny shiftin', not double clutchin' like ya should.
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Jan 8, 2014 22:31
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I drove a poo poo box Hyundai for a year without first gear and slipped it hard enough to stink several times,it was still in decent shape when I changed it. A couple of months of learning stick won't be the death of one.
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Jan 8, 2014 22:34
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Hikaki posted:Thanks for the info. My fear is that I'm slowly killing my clutch so it's good to hear that they're tough. Friendly reminder that the clutch is a wear item, even 'proper' use of the clutch will result in wear. Miata clutches are forgiving though, it's a lightweight, low power car so the potential for damage is less as a result. I'm over 100k miles on what I believe is the original clutch (bought the car around 80k, I'm up to 110k now.). I've been autocrossing and lapping since I bought it, but I've gotten feed back from lapping instructors who were impressed with my shifting. E: I'm losing a bit of fluid though, so a new slave cylinder is likely in my future. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jan 8, 2014 |
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Jan 8, 2014 23:08
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Seconding what TrueChaos is saying about the clutch being a wear item. Also, if you're not awful at driving (read: not slipping to 4k on every single shift and riding the clutch all of the time), usually the bearings go bad before the clutch runs out of friction material.
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Jan 9, 2014 03:41
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Thanks for all the input about shifting guys, I was like Hikaki and thinking I was destroying my clutch every time I backed up an incline. However, over the past month or so, I've noticed an odd sound when I shift from 1st to 2nd, and only on that shift. It sounds almost like corduroy rubbing together. Should I take it in to the dealer for some warranty work? Shifting feel hasn't changed at all. (This is a 2011 NC2 6 speed btw)
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Jan 9, 2014 03:41
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And I thought I was the only one having trouble in 1st with my NC. I find that my difficulty lies with the gas pedal. It seems to me that the first couple of millimeters of travel on the pedal are nonresponsive, followed by a very narrow area to get 1.5-2k rpms, and then the pedal is just super sensitive after that. I figure that I just gotta get the muscle memory down with time. and in regards to the clutch-wear talk, consider what this guy was doing to his clutch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0K8dK2gNvrk (and he was still able to move) krnhotwings fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 06:23
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The goddamn flex hose for the clutch line is leaking. The one that sits right behind the loving head with about an inch on each side.
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Jan 9, 2014 16:09
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Beach Bum posted:The goddamn flex hose for the clutch line is leaking. The one that sits right behind the loving head with about an inch on each side. So replace it with something else entirely.
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Jan 9, 2014 18:54
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There's a guy at the local CQ who makes SS lines. He'll have it ready tomorrow for  and I'll replace it while I'm doing the intake manifold gasket. Because it started pissing coolant all over my oil filter on the way home for lunch. I do thank you for looking out for me though 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 19:10
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krnhotwings posted:And I thought I was the only one having trouble in 1st with my NC. I find that my difficulty lies with the gas pedal. It seems to me that the first couple of millimeters of travel on the pedal are nonresponsive, followed by a very narrow area to get 1.5-2k rpms, and then the pedal is just super sensitive after that. I figure that I just gotta get the muscle memory down with time. This, this right here. Add ice to the mix and its a recipe for disaster. I'm still not really grasping slipping the clutch though. I get it if I'm letting it out in reverse, and holding it every so slightly. Same in first. But can some explain slipping to 4k in say third gear? Could an example be my car being at 6k in second, I put the clutch in, shift, and by the time I release our slip the clutch I'm back down to 4k or below? I generally try to keep my shifts solid, not sloppy, but getting into 5th of course is a bit different than the first four gears.
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Jan 9, 2014 20:58
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1791apparel posted:I'm still not really grasping slipping the clutch though. I get it if I'm letting it out in reverse, and holding it every so slightly. Same in first. quote:But can some explain slipping to 4k in say third gear? Could an example be my car being at 6k in second, I put the clutch in, shift, and by the time I release our slip the clutch I'm back down to 4k or below? I generally try to keep my shifts solid, not sloppy, but getting into 5th of course is a bit different than the first four gears.
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Jan 9, 2014 23:38
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Hog Obituary posted:This is it. That's all there is. That's the only time you need to do it under normal conditions -- when moving slowly (creeping in traffic) or getting started. Perfect. I figured I was over thinking it. Just wanted clarification. Thanks!
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Jan 9, 2014 23:47
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Woman in an SUV backed into me at a stoplight at lunch today. Someone wanted to turn into a shopping center and it was blocked off, so the SUV started backing up to let them in. As soon as I saw reverse lights I laid on the horn, and she stopped. I then started to back up a little bit until the car behind me honked because I was getting close. She then starts reversing again, and I lay on the horn again and she tags my hood under her bumper. She gets out with an incredulous look on her face and explains that she was looking the car BEHIND me (who was apparently laying on the horn despite there being a Miata sized gap between them) the whole time. Some small dents and scratches on my hood... I let her go because it wasn't worth the hassle. If my car were new (or even just nicer than its 20 year old condition) I would have been pissed.
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Jan 10, 2014 19:15
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Congratulations on having your irreparable hood messed up and turning down possible compensation, I guess.
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Jan 10, 2014 20:18
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Had some guy back up into me in Asheville like that. I was on the horn and he stopped. Looked around then kept backing up till he hit me. When he saw that, he just drove off. Spiderwebed the pain on my bumper. I was pretty mad about it at the time but there wasn't anything to do about it. The paint was so nice on my car too :/
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Jan 10, 2014 20:56
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My car has been dinged so many times since I got it I stopped caring. Just the other day I noticed about five nickel sized dimples on the hood in a line like a golf ball bounced down it or something. I give up.
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Jan 11, 2014 00:38
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What would ya'll recommend for a budget-ish suspension refresh for my 97M? Everything is still original at 148k. I'd like to firm it up some and maybe lower it a touch, nothing wild though.
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Jan 12, 2014 06:35
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