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If you think you have a bad batch of Agrellan Earth you should try using a lot of the stuff. I don't think it's supposed to take as much as I'm using but I slathered a large base with it (an oval WH40k base) and while it took like half the pot I think the effect is working.
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Jan 13, 2014 19:04
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Lethemonster posted:Anyone got any ideas on painting up the worlds softest rocks? I just can't get it tot look right I'd try textured paints, and maybe put some flock and lichen on it for a more organic look. Or maybe rough up the surfaces with wood filler putty and/or liquitex resin sand?
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Jan 13, 2014 19:16
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Lethemonster posted:Painting Kaladrax's base is painful. The rocks are all sculpted to be super soft and half arsed. Some of the rocks are just big lumps of putty that they pushed the end of a paintbrush into so it looks like a golfball. Honestly, I'm sure pretty much whatever you do is going to look better than all my stuff so just keep being cool And post pics =)
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Jan 13, 2014 19:21
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Zhent posted:Alright, matte varnish - I tried the Minitaire stuff and it has dried glossy. I shook the poo poo out of it and used my paint stirrer, so it was definitely mixed up enough. I'm going to try and airbrush on some Vallejo matte varnish tonight, but I think my experiment in varnishing has come to an end. It's not worth the potential disaster, and these glossy models aren't really usable the way they are now either - I've got to get them back to at least some sort of satin finish. Like everybody is saying get testers dullcote and spray it out of your airbrush- profit. Just wear a respirator because that poo poo will probably mutate your unborn children and or kill you.
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Jan 13, 2014 21:09
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I didn't know varnishing was this hard. I just spray the poo poo out of my doods and it always comes out nice (using army painters no-shine).
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Jan 13, 2014 22:12
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Is there an alternative to using slate to get rocks like on this base?
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Jan 13, 2014 22:32
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ijyt posted:Is there an alternative to using slate to get rocks like on this base? Tree bark. Base coat black, dry brush up to the color you want. http://fantasygames.com.pl/blog/snowy-base-with-tree-bark/ http://www.necrotales.com/necroTutorials/tut_base_rock01.php Though you may want to buy some coarse mulch or something like that rather than deal with potentially damp tree bark.
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Jan 13, 2014 22:49
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Minitaire Matte skirts the line between slightly satin and full blown gloss depending on how heavy you put it on apparently. Testors "rattlecan" Dullcote is the only option (from all my experience) if you want a pure matte, zero gloss what so ever matte varnish. Everything else I've tried has been closer to satin finish, which isn't half bad most of the time; I still need to try Army Painter Matte though. Rattlecan Dullcote starts to get really expensive so I've been settling for slightly satin finishes. Testors also makes Dullcote Lacquer which comes in a rectangular glass jar and is airbrush ready. I haven't had a chance to use mine yet but everything I've read has said it's pretty good although a little on the satin side but apparently you can fix that by siphoning out some of the "clear" fluid that accumulates at the top of the jar.
Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jan 13, 2014 |
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Jan 13, 2014 22:59
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Indolent Bastard posted:Tree bark. Base coat black, dry brush up to the color you want. Also, just remembered that Basius pads are a thing, so I'll probably pick up this as well. Thanks for the bark idea, wouldn't have thought it'd look that good. Looks like I need to buy some 2-part epoxy.
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Jan 13, 2014 23:05
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Liquitex matte varnish shot through an airbrush is as matte as Testors rattlecan, but it can sometimes be TOO matte, and can cloud or wash out colors. The solution I have found is to cut it with Liquitex Satin varnish, about 50/50 or leaning heavier to the satin. Works well to cut 100% of the shine without looking hazy or washed out. It's not as good as Testors but if rattlecan varnish isn't an option (as it sort of isn't for me anymore) that is the next best thing.
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Jan 13, 2014 23:58
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I can't speak for airbrush having never tried it, but brushing on Liquitex matte works well for me on simple or shallow surfaces; the problem is that if there's any sort of deep crevice detail you really have to be on top of your game making sure it doesn't collect in the cracks before it dries, or it will dry a nearly opaque cloudy gray. I might try cutting it with the satin like you say, see if that helps. Spray dullcote is still the best but honestly if you're rattlecanning it it gets to be pretty expensive for those tiny hobby boutique cans, so I've been steadily searching for a second solution for stuff like non-character models, or for when I can't spray period (which has been the case recently).
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Jan 14, 2014 00:24
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JoshTheStampede posted:Liquitex matte varnish shot through an airbrush is as matte as Testors rattlecan, but it can sometimes be TOO matte, and can cloud or wash out colors. The solution I have found is to cut it with Liquitex Satin varnish, about 50/50 or leaning heavier to the satin. Works well to cut 100% of the shine without looking hazy or washed out. Is this the Liquitex Matte Varnish that has the Orange/Red label? Having a source of inexpensive matte varnish for airbrushing would be really nice (I live pretty close to an Art Supply Warehouse).
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Jan 14, 2014 00:43
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Zhent posted:Do they sell a non-spraycan version of the same thing? I don't have a space outside that I can spray anything, but I do have an airbrush. Otherwise I am limited to brushing it on. It's called Testors CreateFX Flat. I tend to brush it on with cheap watercolor brushes or a Qtip. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 00:50
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El Estrago Bonito posted:It's called Testors CreateFX Flat. I tend to brush it on with cheap watercolor brushes or a Qtip. How well does the Qtip work? By that I mean, do you have problems with the cotton fibers coming off and becoming part of the varnish layer? Because that's what I'd be terrified of if I did that.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:00
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thespaceinvader posted:Honestly, I'm sure pretty much whatever you do is going to look better than all my stuff so just keep being cool I spent the afternoon casting tiny rocks in resin and sculpting them on with milliput to fill gaps, and using different artists gels to texture everything. It nows looks lovely. My friend has asked me to paint his up when I've finished on yours. Paying me £400 to start with. Woo!
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Jan 14, 2014 01:45
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Pacheeco posted:Is this the Liquitex Matte Varnish that has the Orange/Red label? Having a source of inexpensive matte varnish for airbrushing would be really nice (I live pretty close to an Art Supply Warehouse). Yep, orange label.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:57
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Pacheeco posted:Is this the Liquitex Matte Varnish that has the Orange/Red label? Having a source of inexpensive matte varnish for airbrushing would be really nice (I live pretty close to an Art Supply Warehouse). Also available via amazon prime, I see.
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Jan 14, 2014 01:59
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Forgot to crosspost my oaths to this thread:
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Jan 14, 2014 02:19
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JerryLee posted:How well does the Qtip work? By that I mean, do you have problems with the cotton fibers coming off and becoming part of the varnish layer? Because that's what I'd be terrified of if I did that. I tend to use those really cheap ones that are store brand or whatever. They are really compact and I've never noticed a fiber getting stuck in it but I am pretty careful when I'm doing it so your mileage may vary. I tend to use the Q Tip when I'm doing speed painting on commission for covering Army Painter in areas where some things cant be varnished (for instance on a Knight or something where his armor needs to remain shiny).
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Jan 14, 2014 03:17
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Cooked Auto posted:What's the recommended distance so I can remember to bring with me a tape measurer next time I try? Says on the can. I wouldn't count on different brands to be consistent, so do what the manufacturer recommends. Post 9-11 User posted:Not only is the paint phenomenal, look at the poses the sculptor used. Not a power squatting constipation poo poo to be seen! Love the guy on horseback ducking under his shield. Yeah. My wife is an artist (like, she has an MFA, so like for reals an artist) and she was pretty blown away by what we saw. My photos don't really do them justice: for one thing, I've blown them up to much bigger than life-size, so the flaws are more visible. But the lifelike poses are part of what we liked about them. Lethemonster posted:I spent the afternoon casting tiny rocks in resin and sculpting them on with milliput to fill gaps, and using different artists gels to texture everything. It nows looks lovely. You know about the whole "kaladrax is 50% larger than he's supposed to be" thing, right? I bet that's part of why the rocks on the base don't look as good: they were supposed to be smaller.
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Jan 14, 2014 03:37
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Those figures are pretty impressive for stuff found in the US but not really for things you can see in Europe, especially Spain. Look up painters like Jesus Gamarra, Rodrigo Hernandez Chacon, Mike Blank and Raul Latorre.  
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Jan 14, 2014 04:06
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I was just reading a discussion of American vs. European styles of high-level mini painting. Apparently Americans are known more for stylized painting with bright colors, technically very sound blending techniques, darklining, and NMM, while Euro pros are known for dark and gritty realistic color schemes, crazy-rear end light/shadow mastery, realistic true metallics, and over the top elaborate bases/plinths. I hadn't really thought about how there are different schools like that.
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Jan 14, 2014 04:09
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JoshTheStampede posted:I was just reading a discussion of American vs. European styles of high-level mini painting. Apparently Americans are known more for stylized painting with bright colors, technically very sound blending techniques, darklining, and NMM, while Euro pros are known for dark and gritty realistic color schemes, crazy-rear end light/shadow mastery, realistic true metallics, and over the top elaborate bases/plinths. I hadn't really thought about how there are different schools like that. Oh god yes, just go compare, say, the Italian Golden Demon to the American one. Especially in the Fantasy category.
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Jan 14, 2014 04:15
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JoshTheStampede posted:I was just reading a discussion of American vs. European styles of high-level mini painting. Link us to it? VVV: Thanks! Pierzak fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 04:32
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Pierzak posted:Link us to it? It was a post on Meg Maples' blog. She's Privateer Press' studio painter. http://arcanepaintworks.blogspot.com/2013/10/styles-discussion.html?m=1 The guy she mentions as the Euro style is the dude that runs massive voodoo.
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Jan 14, 2014 05:35
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JerryLee posted:Spray dullcote is still the best but honestly if you're rattlecanning it it gets to be pretty expensive for those tiny hobby boutique cans, so I've been steadily searching for a second solution for stuff like non-character models, or for when I can't spray period (which has been the case recently). Again, if you have an airbrush just get this. It will change your life. 
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Jan 14, 2014 06:14
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I've been using the Liquitex matte for about a year now through an airbrush and it's good stuff. The big-rear end 32oz bottle will last you a lifetime, and is probably best from an economical standpoint if you're like me and paint a lot of tiny plastic men. Depending on the model, I typically go gloss> gloss (if metal; plastic, only one coat)> matte> satin. The reason I do matte over the gloss is that I've found that the satin doesn't kill the shine very well at all (surprise surprise), but I like the faint sheen that the satin gives off. It doesn't take very long, and usually I can drop the satin coat on after 15-30 minutes. I did try the 50/50 mix that JoshtheStampede suggested, but I didn't like the look of it at the time. Might need to revisit it though.
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Jan 14, 2014 06:51
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For the record, I don't have an airbrush. Life would be a lot simpler in some ways if I did  (though more complicated in others)
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Jan 14, 2014 07:31
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El Estrago Bonito posted:It's called Testors CreateFX Flat. I tend to brush it on with cheap watercolor brushes or a Qtip. For where that isn't available, I believe Model Master Flat Clear Acryl is the same thing. I've used it and it's great.
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Jan 14, 2014 10:43
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 My Haruspex so far. Hopefully I finish it today but so far it's been a lot more fun to paint than something like a Rhino.
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Jan 14, 2014 13:44
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Leperflesh posted:You know about the whole "kaladrax is 50% larger than he's supposed to be" thing, right? I bet that's part of why the rocks on the base don't look as good: they were supposed to be smaller. Yes I do, but even scaled down the base would look the same. They would still be huge and still look like random lumps with a couple of dents in.
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Jan 14, 2014 14:10
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Double posting from the warmachine thread as you guys might be the more knowledgeable group: Gatormen just showed up in the mail. I have an airbrush ready to go, but want to know what my options are for painting some rad-rear end Gatorboys. Tomorrow's payday so I plan on buying a couple things of paint, but I want to know what I'm getting myself into. I haven't done a crazy amount of airbrushing so if there's a particular technique that would work for them then I'm open for suggestions. I've been looking at secret weapon washes with some envy, but I'm not entirely sure if I can go anywhere with it. Also, want to fancy-base these guys. I see that secret weapon has some bog-type bases that I can try out water effect with. Are there any other brands, and it's there anywhere in the Calgary area that might carry them?
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Jan 14, 2014 18:08
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w00tmonger posted:Gatormen just showed up in the mail. I have an airbrush ready to go, but want to know what my options are for painting some rad-rear end Gatorboys. I love bookmarks: http://handcannononline.com/blog/2011/06/08/the-impossible-road-to-etc-25-pt-milestone/#more-2515 preview of results: 
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Jan 14, 2014 18:31
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will blow your mind.
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I recall seeing a conversion where the missile arm got stuck on to the rail rifle body, but I can't find the tutorial for the life of me. Nevermind, I'll just build them as rifles. Don't trust myself to cut up something that cost £30. ijyt fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 18:44
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Lethemonster posted:I spent the afternoon casting tiny rocks in resin and sculpting them on with milliput to fill gaps, and using different artists gels to texture everything. It nows looks lovely. Welp I'm glad I got in first :P
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Jan 14, 2014 18:50
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I love bookmarks: Those are looking drat good
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Jan 14, 2014 20:06
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ijyt posted:Any Tau people here successfully magnetise their Broadsides? I've tried magnetising within the roof of the arm shoulder sockets but I just can't get a good enough bond, so the magnets keep slipping it out. Yup I did one:    Okay red dots are where the magnets are. You have to add pins into the shoulders (with corresponding holes in the arms) or you will get droopage. I would not drop that off a table but I could waggle it up and down fairly hard with minimal movement.
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Jan 14, 2014 20:42
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thespaceinvader posted:Welp I'm glad I got in first :P  Jokes on you, I'm painting Kaladrax up to look like a clown.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:11
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I'm interested in painting some Hordes trollbloods but am having trouble finding a decent tutorial online. Any suggestions?
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Jan 14, 2014 21:17
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Yolocaust Denier posted:Yup I did one: TIL that Tau look hot in urban camo colours. drat, that's really really rather nice. Good clean job  Monster w21 Faces posted:I'm interested in painting some Hordes trollbloods but am having trouble finding a decent tutorial online. Any suggestions? Here's a little something to get you started: http://archive.brushthralls.com/model-walkthroughs/faction-box-in-10-days-trollblood.html Have a browse through each day (they do the faction starter over the course of 10 days) I used their skin recipe and it looks really nice. I'm not too keen on the way they did the leather sections though, couldn't quite get it to work for me so I just ended up going for darker grey'ish browns.
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