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some texas redneck posted:Right now it's the misfire we're trying to figure out; tires are likely trash though. They're still fully inflated, but it hasn't moved at all since it was parked. The Optispark is questionable even when brand new, and it only gets worse. spog posted:Due to a blocked drain, the plenum on my 2005 Vauxhall Signum (aka Vectra C) filled up with water and ran through the heater blower. Run the A/C with your heater on, it will help dry the air out (which would help the carpet dry a bit faster too). Spraying WD40 in like that will just make everything reek like WD40, and won't lubricate poo poo; WD40 is piss-poor at nearly everything it does. The only way to properly relubricate the bearings (if the issue is actually just a lack of lube) would be to remove the motor and lubricate them directly. However, since it's far more likely the bearings are actually damaged, you should just plan on replacing the motor.
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Jan 14, 2014 20:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Run the A/C with your heater on, it will help dry the air out (which would help the carpet dry a bit faster too). Spraying WD40 in like that will just make everything reek like WD40, and won't lubricate poo poo; WD40 is piss-poor at nearly everything it does. The only way to properly relubricate the bearings (if the issue is actually just a lack of lube) would be to remove the motor and lubricate them directly. However, since it's far more likely the bearings are actually damaged, you should just plan on replacing the motor. It didn't even cross my mind to run the A/C - what a pillock. Thanks for the thoughts. I'll try to get at the motor while in place as I think the spindle may be accessible from below - possibly with holes drilled in the casing. I'll mentally expect it to be no good, but I don't mind risking a resistor pack trying/hoping.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:32
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Buddy of mine stopped by for lunch and I noticed that his car was sticking at about 1500-2000 rpm when idling. Its a '99 Saturn SL2, manual with only 88k miles on it. I'm thinking the throttle body is filthy - anything else I should do/look for?
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Jan 14, 2014 21:33
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VelociBacon posted:Sounds like a syncro issue. It's nearing 200,000 miles. It's basically my work car, don't see a need to replace it, or get it fixed. I'll just be nicer to it. GIJoe fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 14, 2014 |
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Jan 14, 2014 22:00
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I am a moron and didn't wear rubber gloves when switching out a couple rubber bushings about 30 mins ago and now my hands are super nasty. I got most of the grime off with some fast orange, but the rest is not budging. Is there anything else available at auto parts stores that'll take this poo poo off skin better?
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Jan 14, 2014 23:32
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Parts Kit posted:I am a moron and didn't wear rubber gloves when switching out a couple rubber bushings about 30 mins ago and now my hands are super nasty. I got most of the grime off with some fast orange, but the rest is not budging. Is there anything else available at auto parts stores that'll take this poo poo off skin better? Some of that poo poo gets in deep, you just gotta keep washing. I find you get good results alternating pumice (which fast orange has) and regular handsoap, but make sure and rest your hands in between if you don't want them all chapped.
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Jan 14, 2014 23:35
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I've alternated a couple times with Dawn and it doesn't seem to be doing much more. Has anyone used Goop or Permatex hand cleaner?
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Jan 14, 2014 23:46
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West SAAB Story posted:Buddy of mine stopped by for lunch and I noticed that his car was sticking at about 1500-2000 rpm when idling. Do you have a OBDII reader? On my 98 I had this problem when the temperature sensor cracked and read the engine was about 77 degrees below zero, so it would constantly try to heat up the motor by running fast. You could use that to check the temp it's reading, the gauge is crap. There was a service bulletin about this being a bad part. About $10.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:06
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West SAAB Story posted:Buddy of mine stopped by for lunch and I noticed that his car was sticking at about 1500-2000 rpm when idling. More likely a IACV or idle control screw problem - the latter might have carbon buildup on it like you're saying which would cause a high idle but just having a dirty throttle body won't really give you that problem.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:06
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Parts Kit posted:Is there anything else available Invest in a nail brush and use it on especially dirty parts of your hands with whatever cleaner you're using.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:13
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You're going to scrub your fingerprints off in the process first. Just show off your nice new man-hands while the grime lasts 
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Jan 15, 2014 00:17
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StormDrain posted:Do you have a OBDII reader? On my 98 I had this problem when the temperature sensor cracked and read the engine was about 77 degrees below zero, so it would constantly try to heat up the motor by running fast. You could use that to check the temp it's reading, the gauge is crap. There was a service bulletin about this being a bad part. About $10. Yep, I loaned it to him, but never got it back. Its a pretty simple one, though - I'll have to try setting up torque. Thanks - I hadn't thought of this possibility. VelociBacon posted:More likely a IACV or idle control screw problem - the latter might have carbon buildup on it like you're saying which would cause a high idle but just having a dirty throttle body won't really give you that problem. Yeah, I was just kind of speculating from what I've seen it do, and the limited history I have on it. I planned on checking the IACV when I cleaned the TB.
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Jan 15, 2014 00:56
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I picked up a small tub of something similar to Goop but made by Gojo and it worked great! Even got the majority of the stuff stuck under my fingernails with a little coaxing. Extra plus is it doesn't seem to have lanolin in it like Goop does so I don't have to worry about my roomate's allergies going off if I use the tv remote or something. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 01:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:The Optispark is questionable even when brand new, and it only gets worse. Doesn't the LT1 have the optispark right below the water pump which tends to leak onto it?
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Jan 15, 2014 01:56
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some texas redneck posted:Friend's father parked his 96 Impala SS about a year ago. It kept tossing random misfire codes, and misses badly when accelerating. Ran smooth at idle and while cruising (it hasn't been started in over a year though). I haven't had my '95 in a long time, but if I learned anything about that car: it's always the optispark. And yea, it's under and behind the water pump. And it hates heat, water, antifreeze, oil, and life in general. Replace the water pump, the front main seal, and the vacuum lines that lead to the thing (ventilation if I remember right) as long as you're in there.
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Jan 15, 2014 02:03
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Parts Kit posted:I picked up a small tub of something similar to Goop but made by Gojo and it worked great! Even got the majority of the stuff stuck under my fingernails with a little coaxing. It's kinda nasty on the skin (which is probably the least of your concerns after working on a car) but a teaspoon or so of brake fluid on your hands will cut grease like nothing else. It's thin enough to get everywhere but thick enough to stay around instead of running off like brakleen, so if I have a really nasty layer of dirt/chassis grease/car smegma/assorted sludge on my hands, I'll scrub em off with brake fluid, rinse with water (brake fluid is technically a heavy alcohol, so it's soluble in both polar and nonpolar liquids which is why it works so nicely for this) and then go for a second round with a pumice/citrus cleaner to get rid of what's left and remove the brake fluid.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:31
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CharlesM posted:Doesn't the LT1 have the optispark right below the water pump which tends to leak onto it? Absolutely correct. It also really, really hates water. If I ever go slightly crazy and buy something with an LT1 in it, I'm either ripping it out for an LS1-or-newer or investigating some form of coil-per-plug setup.
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Jan 15, 2014 05:05
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Ok I'll bite: what in the gently caress is optispark, for someone who has never seen an LT-1 in their life?
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Jan 15, 2014 05:48
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The distributor from the GenII small-block Chevy. Mounted to the front of the engine and driven off of the timing chain or cam or somewhere along there. But did they just use a standard electronic pickup, or a hall sensor / magnetic pickup? No, they used a light source and a photo sensor watching a trigger wheel with tiny slots. No possible way for that to get gunked up!  http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/c4/optispark.html#.UtYVYmRDswE for a teardown.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:03
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Nissan RB30E has the same fundamental design, but they were smart enough to have it sticking out of the head. I can picture this going desperately wrong at the first sign of a leak. Putting it on the front of the motor is just...bizarre.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:14
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Ok this one is annoyingly intermittent, meaning very hard to reproduce for testing. 1962 Studebaker Lark, inline 6 (the car is black). About 5 times now over the last month, I'm driving along and everything turns off. Engine goes off, all lights turn off, radio turns off. Turning the key off and back on does not restore electrics, at least not immediately. However, after sitting for 30 seconds or so, it will all come back. First time, (about a month ago) I was making a right turn at a light through one of those special yield lanes. Coasted to the side, looked under the hood for anything disconnected, saw nothing, got back in and toggled the key a few times, power came back. About 1/2 mile down the road that same night, the same thing happened... I think at a stop sign? Pretty much the same situation, except I think the power came back much quicker, after I switched the key a couple times. This happened one other time at some point between these occurrences and today. I don't remember the exact circumstances. Tonight, it happened twice more. Slowed down to stop for some people crossing the road, just as I was stopping it shut off. Some pedestrians helped me push it to the side of the road and as soon as we got it into a driveway, the power came back on. Happened again as I was turning left toward the post office. I got out and started trying to push it out of the road, but it almost immediately powered back up and I drove home. The first night it happened, I had already driven 40 miles that day on city streets, highways, and freeways. Today, I drove it to work and back; the power losses happened tonight as I was coming back from the store. Any ideas? I thought it might be the ignition switch, but that's just a guess. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 06:18
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Hotwire the car and see if it goes away. I'm being serious. It certainly sounds like an ignition switch.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:27
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok this one is annoyingly intermittent, meaning very hard to reproduce for testing. I'd check your major fuses and relays - this specifically sounds like a weird relay issue to me. What's up with the higher than average representation of studebakers on this forum? e: Maybe it was another post of yours, sorry. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 06:31
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VelociBacon posted:I'd check your major fuses and relays - this specifically sounds like a weird relay issue to me. Wait, is there another Studebaker owner here? You're sure it wasn't me? I can't help myself from talking about that car all the drat time.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:38
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I need a new spare for my 2002 Audi TT Quattro ALMS, but I'm having difficulty figuring out exactly what I need. Is this something I can just order from Tire Rack?
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Jan 15, 2014 07:18
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VelociBacon posted:I'd check your major fuses and relays - this specifically sounds like a weird relay issue to me. 2nding this opinion, I don't know if that car has a main relay of sorts, but if so it sounds like it's having intermittent heat-related failures; once it cools for a bit (from having the power shut off) it rights itself and functions normally.
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Jan 15, 2014 07:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:The distributor from the GenII small-block Chevy. Mounted to the front of the engine and driven off of the timing chain or cam or somewhere along there. But did they just use a standard electronic pickup, or a hall sensor / magnetic pickup? No, they used a light source and a photo sensor watching a trigger wheel with tiny slots. No possible way for that to get gunked up! It's actually the same sensor/trigger wheel used in a lot of Nissans and Mitsubishis. My Altima had the same trigger wheel setup, and it was the only part of the car that didn't give me any grief. The rest of OptiSpark sounds like a nightmare though. At least Nissan had everything self-contained inside the distributor.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 07:53
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok this one is annoyingly intermittent, meaning very hard to reproduce for testing. Battery may be shorting internally, per my experience. If you have a spare, swap it in.
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Jan 15, 2014 11:41
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I'm cleaning out my garage and discovered 2 borked radiators that I never threw away. Is it worth it to take these to a scrap yard/will they even bother for this little? Do scrap yards even take these? Do I need to knock off the plastic end caps if I wind up taking them? Someone give me the lowdown on scrap yards! Thanks!
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Jan 15, 2014 13:41
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Viper_3000 posted:I'm cleaning out my garage and discovered 2 borked radiators that I never threw away. Is it worth it to take these to a scrap yard/will they even bother for this little? Do scrap yards even take these? Do I need to knock off the plastic end caps if I wind up taking them? From what car? E: nvm if they're borked just throw them out somewhere. You won't get money for them.
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Jan 15, 2014 13:43
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VelociBacon posted:From what car? E: nvm if they're borked just throw them out somewhere. You won't get money for them. Er, they certainly WILL pay him for them. Depending on the size and material though it might not be worth the effort though.
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Jan 15, 2014 14:06
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Ozmiander posted:Er, they certainly WILL pay him for them. Depending on the size and material though it might not be worth the effort though. For broken radiators? I've thrown out a couple, in my experience they'll only give money for ones with very minimal core damage which is hardly ever the case at least for me.
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Jan 15, 2014 14:16
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Ozmiander posted:Er, they certainly WILL pay him for them. Depending on the size and material though it might not be worth the effort though. One is out of an e46, the other out of a 94 ford Ranger I think. The BMW one is pretty big, the Ranger not so much. I think they're both the standard plastic tank/aluminum core deal. I'm thinking anything under $10 isn't going to be worth it for me as most of the scrapyards from googling look to be completely across town.
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Jan 15, 2014 14:20
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VelociBacon posted:For broken radiators? I've thrown out a couple, in my experience they'll only give money for ones with very minimal core damage which is hardly ever the case at least for me. They shouldn't care what kind of shape it's in. They're just going to crush and bale it with all the other s rap.
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Jan 15, 2014 15:52
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If they're copper/brass, they are worth some pretty good money. If they're aluminum, not quite as much, but still worth something. As for the Studebaker issue, that sounds like a lovely battery terminal to me, or ignition switch. There should be like 5 wires on that car, so start at the battery (I assume the headlights will run with the car off... that rules out ignition switch) and poke/wiggle things till you find the one that causes the problem. Check the battery grounding, too, electrons need a way to get back where they came from or they won't leave in the first place.
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Jan 15, 2014 17:27
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I'll nth the ignition switch on the Studebaker - old cars tend to run their full load through the switch itself, not a main relay, so they do tend to wear out and die in crazy ways.
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Jan 15, 2014 17:57
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This is a very stupid question. The issue with my car from before after having some issues starting up was simply that my battery was old as hell. A new battery in and my car is running fine. In fact, it feels like its running better than ever. Is this pure placebo? It feels like the car is accelerating slightly better? I mean, granted maybe a new battery in conjunction with the fact that I had just replaced the spark plugs has improved firing or something? I don't know. Just...it feels slightly better to me.
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Jan 15, 2014 19:18
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Battery won't affect much once the car's running since the alternator outputs all the current to run everything (unless the battery's really fried.) I'd bet most of the performance improvement comes from the fresh spark plugs. Old, worn plugs will have weak or unreliable sparks, which can lead to misfiring and power loss.
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Jan 15, 2014 19:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'll nth the ignition switch on the Studebaker - old cars tend to run their full load through the switch itself, not a main relay, so they do tend to wear out and die in crazy ways. Ok, I'll see about getting a replacement switch. This happens infrequently enough that I don't want to drive around "hotwiring" it for months to see if it repeats, I'd rather swap in a new switch. Parts availability is pretty good for Studebakers considering everything's been out of production for 50 years.
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Jan 15, 2014 19:41
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My 1995 diesel passat got stuck in my yard, and getting it out involved some anger-revs, and much vigorous turning of the steering wheel back and forth. The next day, a small 7-inch threaded rod was found right where the car was stuck. It has a nut at one end. I don't know what it is, and can't see anywhere under the car where it may have come from. What is it? The car was driven once since it was stuck but before the rod was found, and didn't seem to behave any differently. I don't know anything about cars. Thanks AI!
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Jan 15, 2014 20:29
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