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UberVexer posted:Kickstarter has/had a rule about more than 10 of an item being sold at once. That's why every "Hackerspace package" is 10 of an item. It seems to me like small circuit board stuff like this could get around the 10 item limit by offering pre-populated boards with 10+ on them as a DIY "cut them out yourself". 
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Jan 16, 2014 03:14
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Tindie has a "Fundraiser" mechanism which is basically purpose-designed for what this guy is trying to do. Or, they did. I can't seem to find the option to create a fundraiser on my account any more.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:27
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Would any of you forsee an issue with using HIPS in a 3Doodler? From what I've seen you can print HIPS with the same settings at ABS, so using HIPS in the 3Doodler on the ABS setting sounds legit, right?
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Jan 16, 2014 05:55
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TasogareNoKagi posted:A guy in California is trying to kickstart a batch of Arduino-compatible analog thermocouple amplifiers, which are useful for high temperature hot ends. Kickstarter's rule forbidding duplicate pledge rewards seems to be biting him in the rear end though. All the grounds are connected together on every controller board I've seen. With all the switching noise of running stepper motors and heaters on the same ground as your precision analog equipment, it is going to make a mess out of the function of the AD8495. You will get an ok reading with everything shut down but once you start actually PID controlling the hot end and turning motors on and off thousands of times a second, it's going to be a crapshoot that will only get you in the temperature ballpark at best.
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Jan 16, 2014 22:56
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CapnBry posted:noise. If all the grounds in a circuit aren't ultimately connected, how are they grounds?  My strength isn't in microelectronics, so do you have any suggestions? More/larger bypass caps, a separate ground wire to the power supply or an entirely separate 5v supply? I assume switching to a digital amplifier that outputs over SPI won't help, since that's just slapping an integrated ADC in front of the same amplifier circuit. I attend the makerspace where Small Batch Assembly is based, and there's a fair amount of interest in fabbing a smaller batch of amps there for our 3d printer group if (when) the kickstarter falls through.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:34
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TasogareNoKagi posted:If all the grounds in a circuit aren't ultimately connected, how are they grounds? Use isolated grounds a another circuit. Voltage is only the difference between your ground and source; I run my pc case fans at 7v by using one of the 5v channels as a ground for the 12v feed. Bam, isolated voltage channel becomes an isolated ground.
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Jan 17, 2014 02:53
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Obsurveyor posted:It seems to me like small circuit board stuff like this could get around the 10 item limit by offering pre-populated boards with 10+ on them as a DIY "cut them out yourself". That's an interesting thought; "buy one panel of PCBs." Seems like you could get away with selling any amount of a DIY-esque electronics project that way.
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Jan 17, 2014 17:31
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TasogareNoKagi posted:If all the grounds in a circuit aren't ultimately connected, how are they grounds? You might be able to do something like cutting traces to the ATmega analog ground and inputs, then running wires to where you need them and connecting them to the input power connector's ground. Doing similar to this lowered noise on my project (which was carrying less than 1A peak) from 6 bits of error to 2 bits (on a 10 bit ADC).
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Jan 17, 2014 22:28
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Edward IV posted:Would this be the right place to ask what affordable CAD software is available to use to 3D printing? I'm a mechanical engineer and have plenty of experience using Solidworks which is overkill (and prohibitively expensive) for what I have in mind. I only need to make or manipulate solids; no need for manipulating assemblies (though it'd be nice to have), drafting, or FEA simulations. Any suggestions for something cheap (<$100) or free that has similar functionality in creating geometry and solids like Solidworks? Besides the ones mentioned, there is also FreeCAD. It is fairly early in development, but seems like it could be useful once you get the hang of it. Don't expect it to have all of the slick features like Solidworks.
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Jan 17, 2014 22:47
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Suspicious Package posted:Besides the ones mentioned, there is also FreeCAD. It is fairly early in development, but seems like it could be useful once you get the hang of it. Don't expect it to have all of the slick features like Solidworks. FreeCAD has a pretty terrible learning curve. I found it was harder to get people going with that than it was to get them going with OpenSCAD, which is basically C programming. However it's nice to see people attempt to bring some good CAD tools to Linux platforms.
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Jan 17, 2014 23:11
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There's also Designspark Mechanical: http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical I'm not a CAD-guy (I do VFX, not engineering stuff), but I did grab it to build some templates for some laser cutting stuff and it seems nice enough?
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Jan 17, 2014 23:29
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ImplicitAssembler posted:There's also Designspark Mechanical: I'm going to have a go at this when I get some time. It looks like it might be really useful for getting people interested. I spend a bunch of time trying to get people excited about 3d printing and the question "What can you make with it?" comes up, and most people don't like the answer "Anything you can imagine within that cube in front of you." CAD software is fairly limiting to newcomers due to cost mainly, but also the difficulty of the freely available ones. Every 3d printer company has an answer like "Oh, well you can print a shower curtain hook," but most people wouldn't buy a machine for something that comes in a set of 8 for a dollar or two.
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Jan 18, 2014 17:40
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There's no magic One True Answer either. Most important IMO is to give am answer that makes sense to them, ie in a context they can think in. Wargamer? You can print miniatures. Workshop diy type? Look at this custom bracket/retainer/etc that you can see would be an all-afternoon job if you had to make it by hand. I'm kinda out of examples, which probably says a bit about my personal contexts, but you get the idea If someone tried to talk up the jewellery angle of something, my eyes would glaze over. They have to see a door opening that wasn't available before (and have to give a poo poo about it in the first place, obviously)
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Jan 18, 2014 18:57
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Some Korean team is trying to sell a 3D printer designed around DC servomotors in place of stepper motors: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1222995568/rapy-the-worlds-first-dc-motor-3d-printer?ref=live Would there ever be any real-world benefit to using servos in an average hobbyist-level 3D printer? The resolution of your prints is generally going to be limited more by the extruder than the motors. Mister Sinewave posted:Wargamer? You can print miniatures. Actually, Full Spectrum Laser (Las Vegas based maker of hobbyist laser cutters) is coming out with an SLA printer which looks particularly well suited for that: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fsl/pegasus-touch-laser-sla-3d-printer-low-cost-high-q?ref=live It's roughly the same price as the Form1, but with a much larger build area (potentially useful for printing several miniatures at once).
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Jan 18, 2014 20:08
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Mister Sinewave posted:There's no magic One True Answer either. Most important IMO is to give am answer that makes sense to them, ie in a context they can think in. Costume props. I've made a Seburo M5 from Ghost In The Shell as test and a lot of my friends liked it. I'm doing a rework on the model, because it's originally a papercraft model, and redesigning it so there's less burrs from supports and better assembly.
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Jan 18, 2014 20:13
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Young Freud posted:Costume props. That's a good one. Maybe even costume bits and bobs and accessories, too?
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Jan 18, 2014 21:11
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Young Freud posted:Costume props. I've made a Seburo M5 from Ghost In The Shell as test and a lot of my friends liked it. I'm doing a rework on the model, because it's originally a papercraft model, and redesigning it so there's less burrs from supports and better assembly. I would think that costume props would be better milled out of foam and vacuumformed since the scale can be a bit on the larger side for 3d printing. But i guess i'm thinking more of ironman-esque body armor and helmets and crap.
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Jan 18, 2014 21:56
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UberVexer posted:I spend a bunch of time trying to get people excited about 3d printing and the question "What can you make with it?" comes up, and most people don't like the answer "Anything you can imagine within that cube in front of you." That's not a very good answer. Most of the people I talk to who don't know much about 3D printing either assume it's like Tony Stark's automated factory that can build anything in the world from the ground up, or they've read an article about one of the weirder uses (food, tissue, etc) and think it's a machine that makes pizzas from food powder and water or something. A lot of them act pretty disappointed when I say that (on a hobbyist machine) you can't print electronics, you can't print glass, you can't even print metal. It's a device for making small plastic objects and that's it. That said, I show people some of the stuff I've made that I carry around with me -- a little RGB flashlight, some replacement buckle pieces for my backpack, etc. I think it helps to show them that you can make useful, functional things, not just yoda heads and gear toys.
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Jan 18, 2014 22:51
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Sagebrush posted:That's not a very good answer. Most of the people I talk to who don't know much about 3D printing either assume it's like Tony Stark's automated factory that can build anything in the world from the ground up, or they've read an article about one of the weirder uses (food, tissue, etc) and think it's a machine that makes pizzas from food powder and water or something. A lot of them act pretty disappointed when I say that (on a hobbyist machine) you can't print electronics, you can't print glass, you can't even print metal. It's a device for making small plastic objects and that's it. Typically speaking I show people enclosures for things that I make. I do a lot of work with electronics and I end up printing a bunch of cases for things. The people I end up talking to are normally fairly nerdy people, and understand what I mean when I point to a Prusa i2 and mention that all of those neon parts are printed. "What's the coolest thing you've ever printed?" "A printer." That's a fun conversation to have with people who don't understand it.
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Jan 19, 2014 01:21
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Cockmaster posted:Some Korean team is trying to sell a 3D printer designed around DC servomotors in place of stepper motors: One thing that springs to mind immediately is that such a system would be basically immune to missed steps. It's also easier to do velocity ramping and higher top speeds with servomotors which translates to faster prints. A motor encoder combo has the potential to be cheaper than an equivalently specced stepper.
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Jan 19, 2014 02:25
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peepsalot posted:I would think that costume props would be better milled out of foam and vacuumformed since the scale can be a bit on the larger side for 3d printing. But i guess i'm thinking more of ironman-esque body armor and helmets and crap. Foam cutting I know is done with CNC, but I know that people have used prints as the basis for their vacuum-forming molds. I think that guy who is printed out the Aston Martin DB4 body is doing that (I just looked at his site and he finished the body, now working on the dash), he 3d printed the sections individually, gluing taping them together, then he's going to make a fiberglass casting for the body. It actually saved him $10,000-$13,000 NZD from going to a CNC cutter and getting the plug made out of foam. We've had printers here who have printed out replica statues of famous artworks. Someone here I know made the Portrait of Alexander the Great out of 90-something pieces. Multi-part prints are hassle, but you can still make cool stuff with them if you know how.
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Jan 19, 2014 03:13
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Young Freud posted:Foam cutting I know is done with CNC, but I know that people have used prints as the basis for their vacuum-forming molds. I think that guy who is printed out the Aston Martin DB4 body is doing that (I just looked at his site and he finished the body, now working on the dash), he 3d printed the sections individually, gluing taping them together, then he's going to make a fiberglass casting for the body. It actually saved him $10,000-$13,000 NZD from going to a CNC cutter and getting the plug made out of foam. I cut some Warcraft stuff on my CNC machine out of foam, which I later painted, but I printed a full size Master Chief Helmet with some LEDs in it on my printer which was a really good time. On my CNC I cut an aluminum Arc Reactor from Iron Man, and I think that might be one of my favorite things I've made.
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Jan 19, 2014 07:31
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A word of warning for anyone considering purchasing new 3d printer: I purchased a Printrbot Plus like six months ago, and have yet to get a single print out of it. It's legitimately been one of the worst experiences of my life, and I consciously dread having to work on the thing on the off-chance I'll ever get anything out of it. The complete lack of support is what really drove it home, and I probably dropped a couple hundred dollars on upgrades/"fixes" from the shitshow that is their community support mechanism. I got ripped off real fuckin' good. If you're thinking of buying one of these things, you need to assess what you're actually looking for. If you're looking for a magical toybox of problems for an engineering type to tinker with, you're in luck. Anything else and it's going to end in tears.
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Jan 21, 2014 07:02
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ForeverSmug posted:A word of warning for anyone considering purchasing new 3d printer: Conversely, my experience over the past four months with my Flashforge Creator has been nothing but great. Only issue is my build plate not being 100% flat, but that has only affected a few prints, and was easily fixed by putting a silicon thermal sheet and a pane of glass on top of it. I've even made a bit of my money back opening up an Etsy store selling little cosplay related things. Most of my failed prints were only due to adhesion to the build plate (which happens like a few minutes into the print, so you don't lose much time). The best advice I can give is to look for the printer with the best community, and to spot any that bring up a lot of problems (which drove me away from printers like the Solidoodle). On another note: Where is everyone getting their filament? I've tried a couple of Reprapper ABS spools from eBay and they are pretty good, but I was wondering if there was a consensus here.
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Jan 21, 2014 07:15
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I like MatterHackers -- great selection, good quality filament, decent prices. Spring for the "Pro" stuff, it's a lot nicer to use.
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Jan 21, 2014 08:05
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ForeverSmug posted:A word of warning for anyone considering purchasing new 3d printer: That's because 3d printers are not currently at the consumer stage. They are a hobbyist or commercial only. We are years before a consumer grade 3d printer is released. No regular consumer wants to buy a 3d printer and then have to mess around with it repeatedly.
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Jan 21, 2014 14:48
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ShadowStalker posted:That's because 3d printers are not currently at the consumer stage. They are a hobbyist or commercial only. We are years before a consumer grade 3d printer is released. No regular consumer wants to buy a 3d printer and then have to mess around with it repeatedly. I don't think he described a "consumer" expectation. Unless only a consumer would want to not get charged for repairing a broken-from-manufacturer part.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:19
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Hey I have this argument daily over on the Robo 3d printer. Let's all wait until someone compares a 3d printer to an iphone!
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Jan 21, 2014 17:25
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I've never liked the Printrbot design itself. The two linear rods that are unsupported at the top seems like a real bad idea overall. Wasn't the Kickstarter version a real piece of poo poo without a ton of work? It doesn't look like the overall design has changed too much with the Plus either. I'm not a huge fan of that kind of laser cut wood either. My OpenSLS kit is pretty much worthless because the laser cut wood that everything connects to is dried out and warped to poo poo. The laser cut melamine on the Rostock Max seems a lot more robust and warping hopefully won't be an issue because of the layered material.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:33
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Its really hard for someone looking into 3D printing as a hobby to figure out if a design is going to be challenging or easier to get printing.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:49
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Trabisnikof posted:Its really hard for someone looking into 3D printing as a hobby to figure out if a design is going to be challenging or easier to get printing. That's pretty much the entire reason I haven't gotten involved yet. I love the idea, and the tinkering, and the adjusting, and all that stuff, I've built my own cmc router and will soon start another, but I don't want to start from absolute crap and try to work up, I'd rather start around "good" or "better" and go from there, but figuring out what that means I should get is difficult, seems like it's sort of a crapshoot from an outsider's perspective.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:58
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Kazy posted:On another note: Where is everyone getting their filament? I've tried a couple of Reprapper ABS spools from eBay and they are pretty good, but I was wondering if there was a consensus here. I get most of my filament from ProtoParadigm, the guys there are usually really nice and the filament has only given me a problem once (it was tangled in one spot) but they gave me a whole new spool for free because of it. If you're a student they give you discounts also.
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Jan 21, 2014 20:55
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Wait, so the general consensus now is that most 3D printers aren't usable 'out of the box' (if you get one pre-assembled) ? I know you might have to do some tweaking to get it perfected at first, but I thought they were basically good to go out of the box if you weren't expecting absolute perfection ? Am I making a mistake by ordering a Printrbot Jr. V2?
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Jan 21, 2014 21:28
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FlashBewin posted:Wait, so the general consensus now is that most 3D printers aren't usable 'out of the box' (if you get one pre-assembled) ? I know you might have to do some tweaking to get it perfected at first, but I thought they were basically good to go out of the box if you weren't expecting absolute perfection ? I would argue against purchasing a Printrbot, simply because of the decisions they've made in the past year to cut the costs of machines; on some of the models they replaced belts with fishing line, which ended up snapping for many of the users. I have heard people having great successes with them, and other people who just give up completely on them. If you end up getting one, you would be wise to print yourself a set of spare parts as soon as you can. Even the printers that claim to be turnkey will require disassembling every now and then for a good cleaning.
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Jan 21, 2014 21:44
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I'd love to see a spreadsheet that has a good sampling of printers, with (aside from pricing) ratings such as "print quality out of the box," "potential print quality," "tinkering required," "cost to maintain," that sort of stuff. Anyone seen such a thing? A sort of Consumer Reports style analysis of the 3d printer market.
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Jan 21, 2014 21:48
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Bad Munki posted:I'd love to see a spreadsheet that has a good sampling of printers, with (aside from pricing) ratings such as "print quality out of the box," "potential print quality," "tinkering required," "cost to maintain," that sort of stuff. Anyone seen such a thing? A sort of Consumer Reports style analysis of the 3d printer market. Make had a pretty decent issue devoted to comparing a variety of printers.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:22
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Aurium posted:Make had a pretty decent issue devoted to comparing a variety of printers. Is this the one you're thinking of: http://makezine.com/magazine/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/3d-printer-overview-how-they-compare/
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Jan 21, 2014 22:35
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Great, thanks. 2014, even! (article dated november 2013) 
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Jan 21, 2014 22:36
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FlashBewin posted:Wait, so the general consensus now is that most 3D printers aren't usable 'out of the box' (if you get one pre-assembled) ? I know you might have to do some tweaking to get it perfected at first, but I thought they were basically good to go out of the box if you weren't expecting absolute perfection ? This is what I thought too, and I had to learn the hard way. You can tweak forever but you'll never get anything out of it- don't worry though because with our new pulley belts/ extruder/ threaded rods you'll be able to get great prints! Please don't give money to printrbot.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:44
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Okay, cancelling my order. I have learned over the years to trust--in general--the opinion of the people on the Subforums of SA. Not GBS, of course, but the subforums that are specialized (Dorkroom, DIY) So, before i dive into that Make article, what company SHOULD i look into ? I was happy with the 6x6x6 and the ~$700(assembled) pricetag of the Jr V2. I could bump my price up to ~$1000, but 6x6x6 would be about what i would need, i think. I explained a few pages ago what i was looking for. I'm not looking for super fine detail (like what the Form1 can do) but I would like to print out some miniature models (think Warhammer, or the old green Army Men) FlashBewin fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 23:42
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