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Blistex posted:It's amazing how similar the tool market and audio market mimic each other. They make a quality unit for generations, then start cranking them out on the cheap, hoping that everyone will remember that their names used to stand for quality. Then before they know it, another generation has passed and nobody who is buying remembers them making anything but cheap crap. See also: Honda and Toyota.
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Jan 6, 2014 05:05
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pageerror404 posted:How do you tune a #5 to work as a scrub plane for hogging off material quickly? True scrub planes have narrower blades and are shorter, you're probably thinking of a fore plane which is often a #6 but a #5 will work. Just radius the blade to about 8" and traverse plane (across then diagonal to, the grain). If I remember correctly, scrubs were used by either Scandinavian countries or the French while fore planes were English.
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Jan 6, 2014 09:59
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Set the mouth wide open and put an 8" radius on the blade, having a spare #5 isn't a terrible idea since they're so cheap.
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Jan 6, 2014 16:20
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Blistex posted:It's amazing how similar the tool market and audio market mimic each other. They make a quality unit for generations, then start cranking them out on the cheap, hoping that everyone will remember that their names used to stand for quality. Then before they know it, another generation has passed and nobody who is buying remembers them making anything but cheap crap. I have the Veritas jig and its awesome. Probably one of the more expensive options but it definitely works great. Free shipping ends today at Lee Valley too.
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Jan 6, 2014 17:45
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I have the same one (the Veritas) and it's good. My only complaint is that I wish it were wider. Big enough for all my chisels, though.
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Jan 6, 2014 19:10
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Nice score today, a Delta dust collector, miter saw, 12" planer; & Craftex mortiser. These are the lower end Delta Shopmaster stuff but they were free. I'm wondering if I might be better off to convert the planer to a jointer ala woodgears. http://woodgears.ca/jointer/homemade.html Don't know if I would ever get around to doing it but it's a thought.
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Jan 7, 2014 04:37
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Splizwarf posted:See also: Honda and Toyota. I was wondering about this. I get people asking for Honda engine stuff at work all the time, but every time someone brings one in and I test it out it seems like crap. Pain to start, sounds like crap, but I have people who swear by them. The good thing is they sell fast so I can pay whatever and flip it easily. Like, I have a generator with a Subaru engine that we've had for over a year that still starts in like three pulls, but everyone will go to the honda generator that no one can get started but they'll buy it anyways. Hell, I've got this thing which runs like a dream and is light as hell that I can't get rid of for the life of me since it doesn't have a Honda engine. Mind you, I don't work much or at all with the stuff that comes in, so I'm kind of hit or miss on how well I know products.
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Jan 7, 2014 09:26
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Leper Residue posted:I was wondering about this. I get people asking for Honda engine stuff at work all the time, but every time someone brings one in and I test it out it seems like crap. Pain to start, sounds like crap, but I have people who swear by them. The good thing is they sell fast so I can pay whatever and flip it easily. I've had the opposite experience. All my small gear is honda GX powered- generator/pressurewasher/mower. All three run amazing on the 1st or 2nd pull and I've never had a problem. The BS on our sprayer always takes starter fluid, same with the one on our newer John Deere (home depot special). Now the old Kohler on my 316 JD is amazing, I bet I could start it after it's sat the last year with nothing but a fresh battery and fuel.
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Jan 7, 2014 21:34
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the spyder posted:I've had the opposite experience. All my small gear is honda GX powered- generator/pressurewasher/mower. All three run amazing on the 1st or 2nd pull and I've never had a problem. The BS on our sprayer always takes starter fluid, same with the one on our newer John Deere (home depot special). Now the old Kohler on my 316 JD is amazing, I bet I could start it after it's sat the last year with nothing but a fresh battery and fuel. Yeah, it's probably just my lack of experience with them. I get lots and lots of tools at work, wanna ask me about drills, or sawzalls, or car amps or subs? I've dealt with hundreds of those. Generators are kind of rare, I've dealt with maybe a total of twenty or thirty over the past three or four years. So I've probably just gotten bad luck with them. Now Stihl chainsaws, those can go gently caress a duck. I think it's stihl, them or echo, but a bunch of their chainsaws have different starting methods, and don't actually state what those are on the chainsaw, or it will have been so long since I've used it I've forgotten. Queue me looking like an idiot for ten minutes trying to start it (I am getting slightly better with them though). It's probably something stupid, but I've literally never handled a tool before I started this current job. So I'm trying to absorb knowledge, main reason why I read this thread.
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Jan 9, 2014 07:44
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Leper Residue posted:Now Stihl chainsaws, those can go gently caress a duck. I think it's stihl, them or echo, but a bunch of their chainsaws have different starting methods, and don't actually state what those are on the chainsaw, or it will have been so long since I've used it I've forgotten. This is Stihl, and it's not that complicated! Step #01: Move toggle to Position A Step #02: Pull Cord Step #03: Toggle Will automatically Move to Position B Step #04: Since the Chainsaw didn't start, move toggle back to Position A Step #05: Pull Cord Step #06: Didn't start again? Try moving toggle to Position C Step #07: Pull Cord. Again! One More Time! One More Time! Again! . . . nothing? Step #08: Move Toggle back to Position A Step #09: Depress Safety lever and Throttle Trigger while pulling cord. Step #10: Move Toggle back to Position A Step #11: Depress Safety lever and Throttle Trigger while pulling cord. Step #12: Move Toggle back to Position A Step #13: Depress Safety lever and Throttle Trigger while pulling cord. Step #14: Uhhh. . . What's Position D do? Let's try that! Step #15: Depress Safety lever and Throttle Trigger while pulling cord. Step #16: Uh-Oh! Smell that? It's flooded. You're going to have to let it sit for about 15 minutes. Step #17: Go to Step #01 Blistex fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 15:54
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It's cord, goddamnit. 
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Jan 9, 2014 23:18
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Sagebrush posted:It's cord, goddamnit. I was using my wife's phone and for some reason it changed all of the "cords" to "chord". Have no idea why since she isn't a musician.
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Jan 9, 2014 23:49
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Anyone had any major problems with a bosch 75 be jig saw? Its for hobby use, primarily cutting wood. My old ryobi eoj550k just died, and I think im going to treat myself to a new jig saw.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:02
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Bosch jig saws aren't really thought of that well for their price. I'd probably get the dewalt over the bosch. Their circular saws are similar too.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:14
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Frogmanv2 posted:Anyone had any major problems with a bosch 75 be jig saw? I can't speak for the 75BE's, but I own two jigsaws and they are both Bosch 1587AVS. The first one still works fine after near daily use for over 10 years, but doesn't see much use around my home these days. I bought the second one for $70 new around two years ago and use it daily and it has held up well. We keep another 2 or 3 of these around the shop that see moderate to heavy use (MDF, Red Oak, Maple, etc.) I'm not sure what system the 75BE's have in place for changing blades, but the 1587AVS is prone to the plastic stripping out if someone forces it or rushes through trying to change the blade quickly too often. Jigsaws and hammer drills are really the only tools that I've given Bosch any consideration for.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:25
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Christobevii3 posted:Bosch jig saws aren't really thought of that well for their price. I'd probably get the dewalt over the bosch. Their circular saws are similar too. Everything Ive read puts bosch jig saws at the top (or at least the 1590/91 models)
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Jan 15, 2014 04:28
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Christobevii3 posted:Bosch jig saws aren't really thought of that well for their price. I'd probably get the dewalt over the bosch. Their circular saws are similar too. I think you have confused Bosch with another brand because they make pretty awesome jigsaws. Not only did they invent the jigsaw kind of, they bought the company that invented a jigsaw like machine but they are responsible for every major improvement along the way.
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Jan 15, 2014 08:06
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Went out and got the 75 be and im happy. Did a test cut with the standard blade and it was alright. Put on a spankers new wood specific blade and it improved immediately. The manual is nearly worthless, but its fairly easy to work out most of the functions. Finished up the batbox I was working on in fairly quick order. Its much easier to cut straightish freehand stuff than my old ryobi with the same blade.
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Jan 15, 2014 08:52
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I didn't realize the one he was talking about isn't the US ones in lowes/home depot. They are usually mid 100's in price and not that great when I've used them.
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Jan 16, 2014 05:08
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My brother has this arse pain of a power planer: It was never right, I think the po "rebuilt" it, it spits belts and doesn't drive stock 9 times out of 10. Other than paying some dude with a beard to come tut at it, what can I do to help him with it? He can easily waste half a day trying to get it going when he should be earning money instead.
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Jan 18, 2014 10:37
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Cakefool posted:My brother has this arse pain of a power planer: The first thing I do with old machines is take them apart and put them back together, replacing anything that doesn't seem right, file off any casting flash, and looking for adjustments as I go. I'm not particularly mechanically inclined but these machines aren't very complicated and it works wonders for me. I assume you've done the basics like aligning/shimming the pulleys, checking the motor mounts, etc.?
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Jan 18, 2014 17:33
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Blistex posted:This is Stihl, and it's not that complicated! My Poulan is similar (yet slightly different). You'd think by now we'd have the technology sufficiently miniaturized to make a chainsaw with electric start, or at least the two-step no-fuss automatic-choke process like a lawnmower -- 1) press primer bulb, 2) pull cord. But no, the chainsaw is such that you have to hold down the trigger while pulling the cord, and the physics works out so that the only way to pull fast enough to crank it while holding the throttle is to hold the pistol grip of the saw in one hand and the cord handle in the other and kinda throw it; if successful, you have a saw screaming at full throttle and swinging in the general direction of your knees. Actually I don't think my new lawnmower even has the primer bulb. Edit: I kinda want to cut a hole in the engine cover and rig up an adapter for my cordless drill to use it as an offboard electric starter, sort of like how they start F1 cars. I mean, for all the effort I go through trying to pull-start it, I may as well use an axe. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 19:56
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Not sure if this has been posted previously, but I just got this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a rare-earth magnet stud-finder, and it's loving AWESOME.
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Jan 19, 2014 04:39
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JPrime posted:Not sure if this has been posted previously, but I just got this from Amazon: How well does it work with double layers of drywall? Does it just stick to the nail?
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Jan 19, 2014 05:23
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JPrime posted:Not sure if this has been posted previously, but I just got this from Amazon: Some days I look around this house and really doubt that half the drywall screws are properly secured into a stud... For the cordless tools that I was talking about earlier, I ended up buying a combo driver/impact milwakee 18v and then a tool only hammer drill to match. Expensive but hopefully they will make it 10 years. They all seem horrifically overpowered compared to most of what I do, so I'm trying to keep them all on low and be careful. 
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Jan 19, 2014 05:33
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wormil posted:How well does it work with double layers of drywall? Does it just stick to the nail? I can't speak to that, I live in a new construction house...How do double layers of drywall work? 1 really long screw through both layers?
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Jan 19, 2014 05:41
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JPrime posted:Not sure if this has been posted previously, but I just got this from Amazon: I have that exact one and it works awesome... except that my upstairs uses some kind of vertical wooden slats for walls, not secured to studs but secured to horizontal strips of wood which are themselves attached to the studs... and the basement has drywall but the same horizontal wooden slat setup in front of the studs. So when you do find a nail/screw with it it's either going into a tiny 1/2 inch wooden strip or else you need a mega long screw to go through both the drywall and the horizontal strip and then into the stud.
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Jan 19, 2014 10:19
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The horizontal strips are called lath, they were used to hold up the plaster in old construction. The vertical ones are probably furring strips that were added by the person who renovated your housee in an attempt to make the drywall easier to secure. If they hadn't been shoddy craftsmen they would have taken it down to the studs and then added furring strips if necessary.
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Jan 19, 2014 14:36
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Anubis posted:Some days I look around this house and really doubt that half the drywall screws are properly secured into a stud... Well it's got a clutch. If I'm doing really fine stuff I sometimes grab the 18V hammer instead my usual driver, M12 Right Angle, because the R/A has an electronic clutch that can't be fully trusted. Speaking of past posts I ended up getting a ridgid belt sander.  After looking around that was a nice middle ground price point and size between Ryobi and Porter Cable. Variable speed 3x18 for $99. Ridgid is sort of a weird brand but their plug in tools seem to exist in a nice nitche. Often in-between the big brands and the low end brands. On the other hand I don't get their cordless line, it seems like one brand too many since it's basically the same price as the other guys. Given that it's a Home Depot exclusive I don't see why they didn't push ridgid to fit in in-between. There is a pretty big gap between ridgid/milwaukee etc and Ryobi.
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Jan 19, 2014 18:41
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Deal alert: Home Depot has 20% select Dewalt, Makita, Bosch and more tools right now- combine with giftcards from cardpool for 28% off total! I bought a Makita track saw and sander.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jan 19, 2014 |
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Jan 19, 2014 18:58
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kastein posted:The horizontal strips are called lath, they were used to hold up the plaster in old construction. Not plaster in this case. The upstairs has lovely stained wooden walls made up of vertical boards about 4 or 6 inches wide each and interlocked via tongue and groove I think. Because each board is not as wide as a stud they I guess they had to have those horizontal furring strips to hold it all in place. I assume that the basement had the same at some point before they replaced it with drywall but neglected to remove those strips 
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Jan 19, 2014 19:19
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Anyone have experience with the Craftsman 21400 Bandsaw? http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1-3-hp-3.5-amp-10inch-band-saw/p-00921400000P One popped up on Craigslist for $175 still in the box. From what I read its the exact same as the 10" Rikon but $100 less, thoughts?
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Jan 21, 2014 03:30
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Cakefool posted:My brother has this arse pain of a power planer: Find the manual and start there. Go over everything part by part and check it against the parts breakout. Machines that can take fingers off or worse should NEVER be ran if you question for one second what the PO did during his "rebuild".
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Jan 21, 2014 04:53
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have experience with the Craftsman 21400 Bandsaw? One of the woodworking magazines reviewed benchtop bandsaws awhile back and this is nearly the same as the Rikon but with a few improvements like balanced wheels, can't remember what else. IIRC, they picked the Craftsman as best in category for 10" saws. Overall Craftsman did very well in all sizes and I've read very positive customer reviews about them as well.
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Jan 21, 2014 06:50
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Super Waffle posted:Anyone have experience with the Craftsman 21400 Bandsaw? It is basically the same saw with less of a warranty. I got one a while back for around 180 as well during a tool sale with a coupon. It is pretty easy to set up and seems ok for $180. Good for light to medium work. DC with a shop vac on the supplied port works pretty well. I'll probably get a full size bandsaw some time in the future and keep this one set up for more detailed work with a small blade. As for the bad, the insert isn't great and the miter gauge is sloppy. Don't count on it to resaw thick hardwoods, but I did get some ok results with some short lengths of 2" birch. If you only ever want to buy one bandsaw, I'd say save up some more and get a bigger, better saw.
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Jan 21, 2014 16:22
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I just feel like theres nothing between the ~$150 range and the ~$400 range. Any recommendations?
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Jan 21, 2014 17:13
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Super Waffle posted:I just feel like theres nothing between the ~$150 range and the ~$400 range. Any recommendations? I'm guessing you've already looked at used saws? There was a vintage 14" Powermatic on my local Craigslist for $250, wish I'd had the money.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:58
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I would like to take a moment of silence for my makita circular saw which was accidentally knocked off my workbench while I was building a cat scratching post suffering damage to the plastic handhold and apparently the bevel cut adjuster and now seems to be perma-stuck at a 45. My attempts to rectify the situation only caused further damage. So much for saving money on a scratching post, does anyone need any bevel cuts.
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Jan 24, 2014 19:02
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About to start laying a house worth of 3/4 solid hardwood. I was shopping around and noticed that they have palm nailers specifically for flooring cleats. Not sure if these have been around for a while but they're new to me. Anyone every used one? It's not that expensive but I'm having hard time deciding if it would be worth having it for a home project.
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Jan 24, 2014 23:03
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Sointenly posted:About to start laying a house worth of 3/4 solid hardwood. I was shopping around and noticed that they have palm nailers specifically for flooring cleats. Not sure if these have been around for a while but they're new to me.
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Jan 24, 2014 23:26
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