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So, on a scale from 1 to "No Fingers", how safe is resawing on the table saw? I've been doing a lot of reading and it seems the camp is divided. Some people say that it's a terrible idea and you will lose digits. Other people say they do it all the time. From what I can gleam, if you want to attempt it you need to:
Also, understandably, it is supposed to be easier for thicker stock. Is resawing 4/4 just asking for trouble? I want to make a few thin panels for a tiny little box, and the thought of turning all that wood into shavings with my planer makes me sad 
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Jan 23, 2014 03:55
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I'd say use the planer, honestly. Easier, safer, more precise, you can get wider panels. On the flipside you have to buy twice as much wood...but if you need a large amount of thin boards (where this would make a difference in how much lumber you have to buy) then what kind of project are you doing anyway? Find a buddy with a bandsaw and get them to resaw it for you. Also, I've done a small amount of resawing on my bandsaw, and one thing to watch out for is that you're changing the stresses on the board, which can cause the new, thinner pieces to warp. That's less of an issue when using a thickness planer since you can remove equal amounts from both sides of the board.
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Jan 23, 2014 04:04
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I picked up some old bowling alley on Kijiji, a 48" x 42" section. It's made of 2" thick tongue and groove maple glued and nailed together. The guy even ripped it in half for me. I want to use one half for a new workbench and one half for small table. Hopefully I don't hit any nails while I'm working on it.
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Jan 23, 2014 04:18
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd say use the planer, honestly. Easier, safer, more precise, you can get wider panels. On the flipside you have to buy twice as much wood...but if you need a large amount of thin boards (where this would make a difference in how much lumber you have to buy) then what kind of project are you doing anyway? Find a buddy with a bandsaw and get them to resaw it for you. Yeah, that seems to be the intelligent choice. The project is a (very) little box, so I probably only need about a board foot total for the whole project. Since I'll need it rather thin, the frugal bastard in me cringed at turning 50% of the stock into shavings. Oh well. Better wood shavings than finger shavings 
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Jan 23, 2014 04:20
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I picked up some old bowling alley on Kijiji, a 48" x 42" section. It's made of 2" thick tongue and groove maple glued and nailed together. The guy even ripped it in half for me. I want to use one half for a new workbench and one half for small table. Hopefully I don't hit any nails while I'm working on it. Nice score.
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Jan 23, 2014 04:45
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polyfractal posted:So, on a scale from 1 to "No Fingers", how safe is resawing on the table saw? I raise the blade 1 crank at a time for soft wood, 1/2 or 3/4 a crank for hard wood. Cut one side, flip it and cut the other side, then raise the blade, repeat. (I have a 1.5 HP saw and could take a deeper cut but increment steps means I don't have to push as hard and have better control) Cutting most of the way (within 1/8") through and stopping is a little safer than cutting all the way through and you'll want to plane the cut edge anyway. Careful with a featherboard as it can close the kerf and cause trouble (I don't use one for resawing). What you should understand with tablesaws is that some people are terrified of them and any cut that involves getting within 2 feet of the blade is "unsafe" but resawing is just another basic operation that you should learn because bookmatching is awesome. I've resawn 4/4 and 3/4 but I wouldn't bother trying anything smaller. Just follow the rules for tablesaw safety and you'll be fine. On an unrelated note, I've always wanted to make a cove cut and last weekend finally had a reason when making a chalkboard tray! Nothing fancy, I just eyeballed the angle, clamped 2 boards as guides and went to town. Very easy. I'm looking for an excuse to do it again.
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Jan 23, 2014 18:00
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wormil posted:I raise the blade 1 crank at a time for soft wood, 1/2 or 3/4 a crank for hard wood. Cut one side, flip it and cut the other side, then raise the blade, repeat. (I have a 1.5 HP saw and could take a deeper cut but increment steps means I don't have to push as hard and have better control) Cutting most of the way (within 1/8") through and stopping is a little safer than cutting all the way through and you'll want to plane the cut edge anyway. Careful with a featherboard as it can close the kerf and cause trouble (I don't use one for resawing). What you should understand with tablesaws is that some people are terrified of them and any cut that involves getting within 2 feet of the blade is "unsafe" but resawing is just another basic operation that you should learn because bookmatching is awesome. I've resawn 4/4 and 3/4 but I wouldn't bother trying anything smaller. Just follow the rules for tablesaw safety and you'll be fine. I totally agree. For my laminated curves I had to get 16 pieces at 2mm thick, and resawing on the table saw was the best way to go. If you have a good thin kerf rip blade and a decent saw, it shouldn't be a problem. For really wide stuff, I flip it on the table saw like Wormil said, then finish the cut with a bandsaw. Since there's so little material left in the kerf line, the band saw rips right through it and you don't have to worry about the blade straying into your good pieces. On another note: I got those laminations into a vacuum bag with some glue today. It was actuall quite a pain in the rear end. I should have broken down the glue up into more stages (as it is, I'm doing two.) The tight curve into a straight tangent meant that I ended up with slight gaps right where the curve ended. I could have fixed this by either making thinner laminations or breaking the glue-up into more stages. I got greedy.   Hopefully the change in the curve won't be super noticeable once it's off the template.
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Jan 24, 2014 01:02
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Took it out of the bag today: Routed the channel for the wiring:  Clamped up the last of the laminations:  It went much better today. Though I didn't get as much spring back as I calculated. I hope the extra laminations bring it out a bit more.
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Jan 25, 2014 03:32
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Does anyone have a good bandsaw blade selection guide, particularly which blade characteristics for which function (resawing, veneer, etc)?
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Jan 25, 2014 17:43
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Stultus Maximus posted:Does anyone have a good bandsaw blade selection guide, particularly which blade characteristics for which function (resawing, veneer, etc)? Check the MK Morse website, they might have one. edit; they don't but Timberwolf does, sort of. http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/sili-steel-carbide-chart.html wormil fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 17:53
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I bought some speaker boxes and need to widen the mounting hole. It's 5" now and needs to be 5.25" Is there a way to do this without making a whole router jig and template?
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Jan 26, 2014 02:20
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Sure: if you can find a rabbeting bit that'll only go 1/8" out from the bearing, set it to half the depth of your material. Route a lip on the hole, then flip the material over and use a flush bit to take off the lip. That is, do this to make a lip that goes out to the actual desired diameter:  Then use a flush bit to get rid of the lip, using the wider portion as the guide. The trick, of course, will be finding a rabbeting bit that'll only do 1/8". I know some of them come as kits where you can mix and max various bearing/cutter sizes, but that'll be more expensive. e: $45, but prime-eligible and it looks like it'll do the 1/8" cut you need: http://www.amazon.com/CMT-835-501-1...eting+bit+1%2F8 Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 02:28
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I'm very new to woodworking. I was cutting some plywood today with my cheapo circular saw and it seems like the blade is not parallel to the saw guide? Is that a thing? Do saws usually have some kind of adjustment for that? For instance, I can clamp down a parallel bar for guiding the saw, measure both sides to make sure it is indeed parallel but the saw wouldn't run along that guide evenly. The front edge of the metal plate on the saw touches the guide but the back edge sits about 1/8" or more away from the guide as it cuts. It's quite possible I just suck at using the saw but it's also a super cheap "Haussmann" brand saw I picked up on clearance at Rona (like Home Depot in Canada). Haussmann is their house brand. I also noticed a stupid design flaw of the saw while I was cutting. The bottom of the aluminum plate that the saw blade sticks through is screwed to the body of the saw which is fine but where the screws are countersunk there's a raised lip around the screw heads that digs into whatever you are cutting and prevents it from sliding smoothly. I'll have to file those down or something.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:33
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It's sealed so I only have access to the one side. I think I can make that work though. I think if I can get down halfway it'll be enough to clear. Off to home depot to see what bits they have.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:34
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Well, instead of the flush bit, you could use a bushing on your router base plate, which will act like a bearing but from the top (and not quite flush) and then have barely anything left, you'd have like a 1/32" lip which could be filed away in seconds. It's also possible someone makes a flush trim bit with the bearing at the top? That'd be weird but not impossible.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:37
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oxbrain posted:I bought some speaker boxes and need to widen the mounting hole. It's 5" now and needs to be 5.25" Is there a way to do this without making a whole router jig and template? if they don't need to be super perfect round just use a coping saw and a sanding drum
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Jan 26, 2014 02:51
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oxbrain posted:I bought some speaker boxes and need to widen the mounting hole. It's 5" now and needs to be 5.25" Is there a way to do this without making a whole router jig and template? Do you have a 5" and 5 1/4" hole saws? You put the 5" on the pilot bit backwards and bigger hole saw facing the right way. The 5" saw fill the hole, centering the new cut.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:59
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Bad Munki posted:Well, instead of the flush bit, you could use a bushing on your router base plate, which will act like a bearing but from the top (and not quite flush) and then have barely anything left, you'd have like a 1/32" lip which could be filed away in seconds. Weird? They're really common, they're called pattern bits.
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Jan 26, 2014 03:29
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I'm looking at starting to do some woodworking. I've made some things before - mostly bookcases, basic tables for printers, etc. I'd like to get a table saw and a band saw eventually, but my budget is tight, so I'm looking on Craigslist. Any suggestions for what I should look for in a budget table saw or band saw? Every time I see something that looks reasonable, such as: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4297522513.html I search for information and see a bunch of posts from people saying "That's terrible for woodworking, you should buy this very reasonable $500 band saw instead!", which makes me wonder if it's worth it. For instance, while these aren't great tools, this seems like a reasonable way to get started: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4247287050.html But if it's junk and/or just going to be dangerous, it's not worth it.
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Jan 26, 2014 03:32
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Weird? They're really common, they're called pattern bits. Huh, I've just never seen them. I've always used a bushing for that sort of stuff. I guess you learn something new every day. v  v
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Jan 26, 2014 03:33
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mds2 posted:Do you have a 5" and 5 1/4" hole saws? You put the 5" on the pilot bit backwards and bigger hole saw facing the right way. The 5" saw fill the hole, centering the new cut. Nope, those things are expensive. No luck on finding a rabbiting bit local. I'll try it freehand with a straight bit and see how that goes. Otherwise I'll bring it to work and use a cnc machine. Everyone will laugh at me for cutting wood but what can you do. v v
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Jan 26, 2014 04:25
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Khelmar posted:Words It's hit or miss on craigslist. Especially in Jax. I've found a few things, but you just have to keep searching and use something like searchtempest to search within 150 miles. A few months ago, there was a whole wood shop that a guy sold off in Orlando. Prices were pretty good but I was out of the country at the time. Guy had a stroke and couldn't use the stuff anymore.
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Jan 26, 2014 04:48
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Khelmar posted:But if it's junk and/or just going to be dangerous, it's not worth it. Try and talk him down a bit but much better than the 3 wheelers. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4276372538.html These old Craftsman saws are well liked. Make a set of wings for it. Limited rip capacity as-is but down the road you can replace the fence with a Delta T2. I would love to own one. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4295498357.html I'm not particularly a Rigid fan but these are generally well liked. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4293702534.html Price is too high, needs a new fence, but it comes with a dado set. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/tls/4272559096.html
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Jan 26, 2014 05:12
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Is there any good reason why none of the circular saws I can find in the US have a riving knife? I was going about making a square-cut panel saw jig that would ride on my A-frame lumber cart to take down sheet goods when I realized that cutting horizontally would result in the top piece falling into the blade at the end of the cut. I think I have a way around this by using a MicroJig splitter cut down to 1/2 and 3/4" depending on the sheet thickness and blowing holes in my saw baseplate for them to mount into, but still.
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Jan 26, 2014 05:26
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oxbrain posted:Nope, those things are expensive. One other idea if you have a bandsaw, or a way to make a 5" disk. Put the pilot screw through the disk and use it to center a circle cutter. I think they are quite a bit cheaper than hole saws that large.
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Jan 26, 2014 05:28
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wormil posted:Try and talk him down a bit but much better than the 3 wheelers. Thanks! I'll look into these - I'm in Gainesville, but we're heading up to Jax for next weekend.
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Jan 26, 2014 05:44
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wormil posted:Try and talk him down a bit but much better than the 3 wheelers. Why don't you like ridgid? I've recently come to appreciate them. Also I'm expanding my shop and the two table saws I'm eying are RIDGIDs. The one you pointed out and their portable on the stand: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-15-Amp-10-in-Heavy-Duty-Portable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4510/100090444?N=5yc1vZ18g Between this and the one you linked how much difference is there? One is a larger portable, the other is a small belted stand up? Up until now I've only had the tiny portable DW745 but I have few complaints about quality or accuracy. Khelmar posted:I'm looking at starting to do some woodworking. I've made some things before - mostly bookcases, basic tables for printers, etc. That set of tools for $200 seems like a pretty good way to get started. It's a pretty well rounded selection there that you can do a ton with. Craftsman/Ryobi aren't amazing but are a big step above harborfreight. For that money there isn't much risk. The tablesaw/miter saw and router would go for $50+ easy if you wanted to upgrade and resell them. I note that you said you want a tablesaw and bandsaw. I'd make sure to keep the miter saw high on that list. I added the miter saw relatively late (after a table saw) but I'd get a miter saw first if I were doing it again. For most projects you can avoid rip cuts with good planning and lumber selection and/or use the circular when you have too. But nothing replaces the ease of using a miter saw to crosscut. And many projects need a lot of crosscuts. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 17:12
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asdf32 posted:Why don't you like ridgid? I've recently come to appreciate them. They are pretty good for the money but have had alignment problems for a few generations which tells me that Rigid just doesn't care enough to be bothered to fix it. I've always suspected the problem is more widespread, that many people have it and don't know it since the Rigids appeal to first time saw owners. They tend to be stepping stone saws, people buy one then later upgrade. The money is better spent on a better quality used saw. Personally I'd rather spend $500 on a used $1000+ saw that would last me for years. But if shopping and I found a used Rigid for a nice price that didn't have the alignment problem I wouldn't overlook it. Difference between the contractor and benchtop is the benchtop will have less power and make more noise. And generally the fence on benchtops are crappy, no better than pre-90's saws. If my Delta died and I had to buy another saw, here is where I'd look: Budget < $250 : Used RAS- Delta, Rockwell, Dewalt; or band saw Budget < $900 : Used Delta, Emerson Craftsman; new Delta hybrid-ish thing Budget > $900 : New Grizzly Hybrid or used Unisaw or PM Budget > $1600 : New/used Sawstop or Powermatic Budget > $3000 : New Unisaw or Sawstop
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Jan 26, 2014 19:11
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wormil posted:They are pretty good for the money but have had alignment problems for a few generations which tells me that Rigid just doesn't care enough to be bothered to fix it. I've always suspected the problem is more widespread, that many people have it and don't know it since the Rigids appeal to first time saw owners. They tend to be stepping stone saws, people buy one then later upgrade. The money is better spent on a better quality used saw. Personally I'd rather spend $500 on a used $1000+ saw that would last me for years. But if shopping and I found a used Rigid for a nice price that didn't have the alignment problem I wouldn't overlook it. I've been using this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206?N=5yc1vZ18g and I've been very happy with it. It's nice and quiet and cuts very well (glossy rip cuts, super smooth plywood cuts too). One of these days I'll probably upgrade the fence to something a bit easier for micro adjustments but short of making the jump to a SawStop for finger-saving reasons only, this one will meet my needs for long time. Granted, it's the nicest saw I've ever owned, maybe I just don't know what I don't know.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:49
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Granted, it's the nicest saw I've ever owned, maybe I just don't know what I don't know. Ignorance is bliss! I honestly wish I never used those Powermatic and Delta saws at a friend's place.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:33
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My Delta contractor is begging for a teardown. The adjustment wheels have gotten sloppy and it has picked up a weird resonance problem I need to solve but I like it just as much as when I bought it 15 something years ago. I tried fixing it without a teardown but I need to bite the bullet and just do it.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:45
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Cross post from the post-your-project thread is the crib I just finished. Made from a white oak some guy was selling on Craigslist along with some red oak plywood from the depot, since there are no decent lumberyards around here. Mixing the species was not ideal, but with the stain I'm hoping it's not too noticeable. 
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Jan 27, 2014 02:07
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Just finished a flip-top shop cabinet to house my new planer. Instructions say to lag screw the tools to the top, but that sounded scary so I just used long carriage bolts and bolted the planer through the entire top. Have to admit, the first few minutes that the planer was on the bottom, I was a nervous wreck. Was absolutely sure the whole thing was going to implode. Not the most beautiful thing, but it works  
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Jan 27, 2014 02:47
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Hey, I really like that. Been trying to figure out where to put my belt and disk sander, something like that would be perfect. Maybe sander on one side, grinder on the other? That'd be about perfect.
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Jan 27, 2014 03:31
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polyfractal posted:Just finished a flip-top shop cabinet to house my new planer. Instructions say to lag screw the tools to the top, but that sounded scary so I just used long carriage bolts and bolted the planer through the entire top. Have to admit, the first few minutes that the planer was on the bottom, I was a nervous wreck. Was absolutely sure the whole thing was going to implode. Woah that's cool. Never seen that. I'm moving/redesigning my shop so that's a neat idea to consider. I need exactly that type of space saving.
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Jan 27, 2014 03:45
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Yeah, I'm pretty impressed with it so far. A lot sturdier than I thought it would be. The plan I used was from "The Complete Small Shop" by ShopNotes, but there are a couple of different designs floating around the internet. The ShopNotes plan is nice because it's made out of a single 8'x4' plywood, a strip of hardwood and various hardware. One guy even made a three-tool cabinet, although I'm not really sure how much space it is saving since the tools stick out at odd angles. The only thing I don't like are the casters. I used pretty beefy swivel, locking casters, but even when locked there is a certain amount of play to the cabinet. I think I'll add toggle clamps like this tip suggests to improve stability. 90% of the time it will be parked as the mitre saw station, so that's fine with me.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:08
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That's ok, I didn't want a paycheck this month anyway.    100 bd feet of quarter-sawn white oak, purchased from a guy locally on CL. I don't know too much about rough lumber, but it all appears to be about FAS + #1 grade. Most boards have a single knot (mixture of sound and unsound), but otherwise at least 7-8ft of clear face. Minimal checking, minimal warping, some nice figure in places. I'm super happy with my first big lumber purchase. Sorry for the meh photos...it started to rain literally as soon as I started taking pictures, had to scurry around and drag these inside my garage before they got soaked.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:47
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The nice thing about being a machinist, all the toys you could ever want. The bad thing, now I'll always know one of the boxes is .050" taller on one side than the other. I guess it'll have to do.   Came out ok though. 
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Jan 29, 2014 03:50
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Anyone have a recommended canvas or leather apron that they particularly like? The wife is complaining about the amount of "unnecessary" dust I'm adding to the laundry with my shirts.
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Jan 29, 2014 03:55
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I just bought this off Amazon last month and love it! I wanted leather though in particular since I'll use it for metal work as well. I like that it has the two top pockets for pens, etc. and no lower pockets to fill with shavings. Leather Apron
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Jan 29, 2014 04:27
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