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Deviant posted:paint rack/station?
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Jan 23, 2014 20:13
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 07:27 |
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JackMann posted:Have you checked Coat D'arms? I was being quite literal about them making old Citadel paints. They were the company that Citadel contracted for paints until 1997, and they still own the rights to the formulas. The names are different, but here's a conversion chart. pre:137 Ink wash - Chestnut Chestnut Wash e. Wait is this stuff available in the US? On a first look I'm just seeing UK retailers.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:20
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Deviant posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a palette, or a paint rack/station? Build a wet palette (small tuperware, sponge and wax paper) and get a ceramic palette with many dishes like this.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:20
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Leperflesh posted:Holy poo poo! Hooooly poo poo OK I have to find where I can get this. Seriously I miss my Chestnut Ink So Much.  I still have an almost-full hexpot.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:21
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The Sex Cannon posted:
Pff hexpots. The bulk of my Citadel paints were purchased between 1989 and 1991. Most of my inks survived, but the chestnut didn't. e. I found one. "Olympian Games" has it, at US$4.40 a pot, plus $21.13 shipping. WTF on the shipping, christ. e2. "Scale Creep Miniatures" carry Coat d'arms but they have "negative three" pots of Chestnut Ink in stock. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 20:22
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Does anybody know where I can pickup some rare earth magnets in smallish quantities? I need a handful of 3/16 x 1/16 sized magnets. But they're usually sold in lots of 50-100.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:39
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Leperflesh posted:
Liquitex Transparent Burnt Umber ink is almost identical to old chestnut ink. Deviant posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a palette, or a paint rack/station? I use a Paintier lazy Susan style paint rack and a grocery store tiered spice rack to store paints. Palette wise I sometimes use the P3 wet palette but more often a plain ceramic welled palette I got from a craft store. All work pretty well for me.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:48
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Hixson posted:Does anybody know where I can pickup some rare earth magnets in smallish quantities? You could try Deal Extreme
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Jan 23, 2014 20:55
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JoshTheStampede posted:Liquitex Transparent Burnt Umber ink is almost identical to old chestnut ink. Awesome! OK thanks, I'll have to look for that. Hixson posted:Does anybody know where I can pickup some rare earth magnets in smallish quantities? Are you sure you don't mean 3/8 by 1/16? I've never seen 3/16 by 1/16 neodymium magnets.
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Jan 23, 2014 20:56
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Leperflesh posted:Awesome! OK thanks, I'll have to look for that. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D31-N52 K&J has a shitload of variety and will do whatever quantities you want (I think with the tiny ones it might have to be multiples of 10, but, whatever).
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Jan 23, 2014 20:59
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I love my P3 paints. They are thin, water down well, and have all the colors I need for half the price of GW. As for metallics, Vallejo 'liquid gold' alcohol paints are the best around.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:20
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BULBASAUR posted:I love my P3 paints. They are thin, water down well, and have all the colors I need for half the price of GW. As for metallics, Vallejo 'liquid gold' alcohol paints are the best around. P3s also use liquid pigments which means they never separate or need shaken, except the metallics.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:24
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BULBASAUR posted:I love my P3 paints. They are thin, water down well, and have all the colors I need for half the price of GW. As for metallics, Vallejo 'liquid gold' alcohol paints are the best around. How are the pots compared to GW. Flip top, screw or dropper? I can't find Reaper paints in the UK, and apparently Vallejo game color is so-so.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:25
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ijyt posted:How are the pots compared to GW. Flip top, screw or dropper? I can't find Reaper paints in the UK, and apparently Vallejo game color is so-so. Flip top, but a much better rubbery one than GW. It's actually the old-old GW pots that I think now are Coat D Arms pots.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:31
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JerryLee posted:http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D31-N52 Interesting. I've always bought on Amazon (using Amazon Prime), and I mostly buy 1/8" by 1/16" for the purposes of magnetizing miniatures. E.g., these, which at $8.95 with free shipping for a hundred, is just 8.9 cents each. Weirdly, K&J doesn't seem to have that exact size, although they have a huge number of different sizes. They do have 1/16 x 1/16, at 9 cents each, but then you add shipping (and those are half the size).
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Jan 23, 2014 21:32
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Crosspost from the 40k thread;Groetgaffel posted:Looking for some input here. I'm currently in the process of repainting my tanks in a new scheme.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:32
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I just got a spooky sense of nostalgia from the first time I smelled chestnut ink. poo poo stanks, but then so did all of the citadel paint back then. I miss painting.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:33
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JoshTheStampede posted:Flip top, but a much better rubbery one than GW. It's actually the old-old GW pots that I think now are Coat D Arms pots. I've been reading around and apparently Coat d'arms and P3 are almost identical, but CD is cheaper at £1.80 rather than £2.30/£2.40. Guess I know where I'll be going to replace paints, though I do want to try out a dropper at one point.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:37
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From my experiance P3 is thinner and, like Josh said, uses liquid pigments. I'm not sure CDA does that.Groetgaffel posted:Crosspost from the 40k thread; I think this is a good start, but to make it feel believable you'll need to smudge it around the base of the tank. The best tools for that are washes, particularly oil based washes, along with pigments.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:40
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BULBASAUR posted:I think this is a good start, but to make it feel believable you'll need to smudge it around the base of the tank. The best tools for that are washes, particularly oil based washes, along with pigments. I don't have any oil washes nor pigments though, just a bunch of citadel washes; of which the black one was used here.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:48
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Groetgaffel posted:I'm sorry, I think I'm too dumb to get what you mean. Do you have an example? What's there is good, but you need to include stuff like splatter on the rest of the tank. As it is, it looks like some giant very carefully dipped the bottom of the tank in the mud. http://www.ranger-forums.com/snapshots-69/rain%3Dmud-76891/ (I did an image search for 'muddy vehicle') See how even though the colour of the mud is uniform, it has sprayed around the tyres and large splodges have run down. It's well worth getting hold of some pigments, they are surprisingly easy to use and lots of fun to weather things with. If you don't want to do that, you could try out some of the GW textured paints and use them to muddy your vehicles up.
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Jan 23, 2014 22:05
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Here's a rough example of what I'm talking about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXtc5z0XGMo&t=203s The basic idea is that you want to spread out your ‘dirtiness’ across the model otherwise it looks like your tank fell out of the sky, got stuck into mud, and then got lifted out by helicopter. That can work sometimes, but usually you want it to look like its driven through the mud and seen some days out on the field of battle. Pigments and oil washes are easiest to work with in these situations because you can clean them up so easily. You basically work backwards when using them- slap on a bunch and then use a wet sponge or paper towel to take the excess away. ‘Pin’ oil washes make for great vehicle shading too. You only have acrylic paints and washes? No problem! You can accomplish similar things with regular washes and paints. You just have to be more careful. Here the idea is to dry brush and stipple the lower parts of your tank with dirty colors like you have in your base and then to use targeted washes to blend them into your model. The tutorial does a good job of showing this, but I’d suggest using a sponge or rough brush to do the job. You can also use alcohol (70% isopropyl) to remove acrylic paints, which means you can ALMOST get the same behavior as using an oil wash/pigment (dip your brush into alcohol and then smudge parts of the grime along the lower parts of your tank while they are drying). Note that you have to be meticulous here since it will eat away your basecoat if you’re not careful. Did any of that make sense? e: What Pilgrimski said
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Jan 23, 2014 22:16
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Can anyone recommend some cheapish but good looking female heads? I am making an inquisitor and want to put her in terminator armor. I am looking for some head that looks like a woman without super long hair.
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Jan 23, 2014 22:25
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JerryLee posted:http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D31-N52 This is perfect, thanks!
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Jan 23, 2014 22:27
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Yeah, that makes sense, thanks. I'll add some splatter next time I've got the paints out. I'm going to try and not go overboard though. The Leman Russ' supposed to have a top speed of something like 27km/h, son it's not exactly mudracing we're talking here.
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Jan 23, 2014 22:31
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Throb Robinson posted:When I figured out the 28mm to in universe height it came out ot be like 6 foot 6 inches tall. Figured if I was going to make one it had to be done right the first time, just stupid loving tall. Grimdark as gently caress. What I really want to do is play a game where people have to land like stormravens and poo poo on it and take control. The Cathedral im building is big enough to have like a Kill team game on "Where we're going, we don't need no table to play on" Deviant posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a palette, or a paint rack/station? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Painting-Full-Workstation-Rack-Kit-Vallejo-Citadel-Model-Color-/111263223244
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Jan 23, 2014 22:41
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JackMann posted:Have you checked Coat D'arms? I was being quite literal about them making old Citadel paints. They were the company that Citadel contracted for paints until 1997, and they still own the rights to the formulas. The names are different, but here's a conversion chart. Yesss rotting flesh (putrid green) still lives! Now I don't have to worry about running out of my last 2 pots that I got before the Citadel color range changed.
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Jan 23, 2014 23:15
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Indolent Bastard posted:You could try Deal Extreme Deal Extreme is king, if you're willing to be patient. I just got 300 4mm x 2mm magnets in for 14 bucks last week. Catch was that I ordered them before Christmas.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:28
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Shaman Ooglaboogla posted:Can anyone recommend some cheapish but good looking female heads? I am making an inquisitor and want to put her in terminator armor. I am looking for some head that looks like a woman without super long hair. This place is probably the best option: http://statuesqueminiatures.shop033.com/c/4433736/1/all.html There are a few others though: http://eurekamin.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=815_816&products_id=12209 http://eurekamin.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=815_816&products_id=12210 Victoriaminiatures have a female range on the way, but not in production yet: http://victoriaminiatures.info/category/news/ And hasslefree do some heads without hair for sculptors. http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=human-female-heads~hfl100&category=accessories~converting Although I don't think it's as good, you could also use an eldar guardian head, there are some without helmets: http://www.bitzbox.co.uk/product_info.php/eldar-guardian-bare-head-p-1063?osCsid=5o1eu81l6p002c2ea2qs70po77 Or another elf type head perhaps.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:34
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The nice thing about the 1/8" diameter magnets is that 1/8" is a very common drill bit size which fits into a pin vise. So I just drill a hole 1/8" or 1/16" deep (depending on which magnets I'm using) and then the magnet glues in flush. I can mark 1/8" or 1/16" on the drill bit first if I want to be sure not to go too deep.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:35
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I'd like to do a diorama that features people around a campfire. Reaper has this model, any ideas for the others? I'm fine with both sitting around a campfire and laying in sleeping bags/on bedrolls, but I can't find anything useful. Thanks!
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Jan 24, 2014 00:46
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Leperflesh posted:
Funny story. When I was first starting out, I picked up a bunch of minis and paints from a buddy of mine who has a shop at a swap meet. Among them was a set of Citadel inks. I used the chestnut a couple of things, and really liked the effect. Then I knocked over the bottle and spilled forth most of its contents onto my table. I felt like I had destroyed something holy. Thankfully, I later found out it's possible to order, even if Scale Creep's out at the moment. ijyt posted:I've been reading around and apparently Coat d'arms and P3 are almost identical, but CD is cheaper at £1.80 rather than £2.30/£2.40. Guess I know where I'll be going to replace paints, though I do want to try out a dropper at one point.
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Jan 24, 2014 01:06
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Throb Robinson posted:I want to kickstarter this stupid thing cause I never have enough Plastic card to build this thing to the scale I want. Holy poo poo are you actually building a WH40K scale Emperor Titan? How tall is that monster going to be when you're done?
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Jan 24, 2014 04:56
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Pilgrimski posted:This place is probably the best option: http://statuesqueminiatures.shop033.com/c/4433736/1/all.html Most of GDubs lady heads are pretty dire. I wanted to build a helmetless farseer like you see in the dawn of war games, but it's slim pickings from their official range. I think the Dark Elves have their best faces, but the sorcs have too much hair to fit properly and no way am I buying Witch Elves for a single piece (bitz websites tend to be packed with sister of slaughter masks, but not the alternative).
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Jan 24, 2014 05:13
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Achmed Jones posted:I'd like to do a diorama that features people around a campfire. Reaper has this model, any ideas for the others? I'm fine with both sitting around a campfire and laying in sleeping bags/on bedrolls, but I can't find anything useful. Thanks! I don't know about sitting figures, but you could probably cover these guys in a bedroll: http://stonehavenminiatures.webstorepowered.com/Stonehaven-Miniatures-Dwarf-Unconscious-Miniature/dp/B00AKNDQEY http://stonehavenminiatures.webstorepowered.com/Stonehaven-Miniatures-Gnome-Unconscous-Miniature/dp/B00GJX5S2W
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Jan 24, 2014 05:55
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Did any of you guys who are quite good at painting begin with absolutely no artist ability whatsoever? I really love the idea of painting, but in practice, every time I bust out the paints my models look like a kindergardener's work. It frustrates me and I give up pretty quick. I'm sure the answer is "be patient and keep practicing", but I'm wondering if any formerly terrible and frustrated painters have tips. I watch a lot of painting videos for techniques and theoretically I should be able to paint decent tabletop models with shading and highlights but in practice it always looks like garbage. Maybe I just lack the manual dexterity.
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Jan 24, 2014 06:04
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Start basic. Just color in the lines, do some basic washes and drybrushing, and practice eyes (the trick with eyes, by the way, is to paint from the inside out; paint black, paint white around it, and then black around the white, giving you a nice eye). Look at the very basic tutorials. None of that source lighting or NMM stuff. That's great, but you need to work on the basics first. Examine your minis from arm's length. That's as close as most people are ever going to see them. Do they look good there? Then excellent. You're at tabletop quality. Once you're there, then you can start refining things further.
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Jan 24, 2014 06:15
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Do you find you have trouble with keeping your hands steady? Or is it more of an aesthetic impairment, you can't seem to figure out which colors to put where?
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Jan 24, 2014 06:15
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I don't think I have problems with keeping my hands steady but I definitely have problems with brush control. I'm using a tiny brush for most of it and it takes forever and I still can't manage to stay in the lines. A bigger brush just leads to the wrong color all over the places I already finished. It's kind of embarassing. I end up giving up for months or commissioning people but I really want to paint my own army and be proud of it. It's been years now. I'm not trying anything crazy, just basecoast, wash, layer, highlight.
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Jan 24, 2014 06:23
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 07:27 |
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Tuxedo Gin posted:Did any of you guys who are quite good at painting begin with absolutely no artist ability whatsoever? I really love the idea of painting, but in practice, every time I bust out the paints my models look like a kindergardener's work. It frustrates me and I give up pretty quick. I'm sure the answer is "be patient and keep practicing", but I'm wondering if any formerly terrible and frustrated painters have tips. Everyone starts like that, trust me. I'm not a super awesome painter but I like to think I am pretty good, and I have zero artistic ability outside of mini painting apart from a decent intuitive grasp of color theory. Brush control is learned by doing. Painting tutorials are awesome and I watch them a lot but you have to actually paint or you'll never actually be able to do any of the rest of it. If you're worried about ruining nice models with your babby painting, go buy a box of marines or whatever to practice basic skills on. Learn how to thin paint, how to paint a basic smooth layer, how to paint in the lines, etc, and the muscle memory will catch on. You know the theory of where to put the paint, you just have to train your hand to put it there.
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Jan 24, 2014 06:24
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