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harperdc posted:Manual 2000 Legacy, and the shifter is now getting a lot of lateral play. As in, put it into fifth and the shifter creeps all the way toward where 3rd gear is supposed to be. Yeah, that is definitely the u-joint bushings. Here is a diagram of the shifter:  The "shifter bushings" you always see advertised are the parts that replace parts D and E. They are on either end of the rod that attaches between the transmission and chassis and holds the base of the shifter in place. Since this goes between the drivetrain that moves around and makes noise there needs to be a bushing there to absorb nvh and allow drivetrain movement. Putting in stiffer parts like the kartboy front bushing reduces the amount of bushing deflection you get while selecting a gear. So forward and back movement gets a much more direct feeling because the stock squishy bushing isn't moving back while you try to move the shifter forward. With these bushings you actually get some feedback out of the shifter and can feel the syncronizers and dogs engage. Some people call this "notchy" like that is a bad thing. IMO it is how the shifter should feel. For side to side shifter motion, the u-joint linkage comes into play (parts A on the diagram). The bushings wear out and suddenly the stick has to move a long way to either side before anything in the transmission goes anywhere. Here is the linkage:  There are a couple of different variants of this linkage. Early ones have an external centering spring, some are riveted together, and some use different sized bushings. For later cars where things bolt together you can just buy the bushings for like $20. For older cars with a riveted linkage but without an external return spring you can buy the updated linkage, or drill out the rivet, replace the bushings, and put it back together with a bolt. For older cars with an external spring you have to drill it apart and replace the bushings yourself. I picked up some 3/8" nylon bushings from mcmaster carr plus a stock linkage bolt. Had to ream the bushings out slightly to 10mm but it works pretty well.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:45
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Slow is Fast posted:Pros Much obliged. How hard are the plugs to get to on that engine?
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Jan 22, 2014 20:54
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saint gerald posted:Much obliged. How hard are the plugs to get to on that engine? 2 hour job, have to remove some stuff that gets in the way but it's nothing too major.
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Jan 22, 2014 20:57
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This is exactly the part that was changed. It literally had rusted to almost nothing. The guys at the shop were surprised how stiff my shifter felt still.
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Jan 22, 2014 21:00
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VelociBacon posted:2 hour job, have to remove some stuff that gets in the way but it's nothing too major. Probably not something I'd want to do on the seller's driveway, then. Maybe there's a local mechanic who would let me watch him do it. What would it take to get it running on E85? I know turbo engines love it, and it's (somewhat) available in my area. Is it as easy as injectors and a remap, or does it need more than that?
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Jan 22, 2014 21:05
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Pretty much that. 1000cc injector dynamics injcetors plus a fuel pump that can handle them. The problem is that e85 is not always exactly 85% ethanol and it collects water fast. If you are always driving your car the water part isn't a problem, it's the exact ethanol content in your tank that can cause issues. OEMs get around this with a flex fuel sensor and continuously adjust the map so you can have 100% ethanol, 100% gas, or anywhere in between and be fine. I am under the impression that you can add a flex fuel sensor and use it to adjust fuel trims but I'm not sure what else it can do with the stock ecu. Ideally you could adjust fuel, timing, and boost based on the amount of ethanol in the fuel. You would have to talk to a tuner to find out if that is possible and if so what it takes. It would be a much safer solution than just having a map for 91 and a map for e85 on the accessport.
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Jan 22, 2014 22:27
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Well, that was fast. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCVA7_6uzZ0
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Jan 23, 2014 03:17
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Welp, looks like I need that.
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Jan 23, 2014 04:05
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WHERE'S THE loving WAGON?
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Jan 23, 2014 04:28
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There's the Levorg except that it's currently only for Japan and only has a CVT as far as I can tell. 
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Jan 23, 2014 04:34
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Yeah, that thing doesn't count. 
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Jan 23, 2014 04:36
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What road was that? PCH?
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Jan 23, 2014 04:48
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Yeah, that thing doesn't count. Well, I like it.  That's in spite of the uncertainty of if it will make it to North America with a manual. Even though I bought a 2013 Impreza Wagon as my first car last May, I'm still pining for it though I'm more interested in the 1.6L Turbo. Call me lame if you must but the 1.6L Turbo has slightly less power but more torque than the naturally aspirated FB25, supposedly uses regular gas, and supposedly can get the equivalent of 41 MPG highway. What's wrong with having something fun and economical?
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Jan 23, 2014 04:51
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Fifty Three posted:What road was that? PCH? It looked like the back stretch of Angeles crest, on the bear side.
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Jan 23, 2014 05:22
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There will be a WRX wagon / hatch. I understand staggering things, and I think the sedan is still going to sell like crazy, but I can't imagine they'd let the GTI & ST eat all the performance hatch money. The only non-FWD performance hatch or wagon under $50k is going to be the Golf R. They'll come out with a wagon WRX in 2017, then the STI a few years later.
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Jan 23, 2014 05:44
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So, i just bought a 99 outback sport wagon last week. Its AMAZING. Or at least, Im pretty happy with it, its super nice and the guy was almost giving it away. I got lucky getting to it first, he had 10 more emails before me, but I lived just down the street  The guy diddnt know any history. It was given to his wife last summer, and they decided they diddnt need it after all. But its really clean, with lots of new looking parts under the hood. No oil leaks, either. And new tires! 5 speed! 175k miles, but it runs and drives -great-. California car, too, not a speck of rust anywhere. Anyway, Ive got a few questions... The clutch is really high up on the pedal. It doesnt really feel like its slipping, but.. its really really high. Is this adjustable, or should i start thinking replacement? Id like to try it myself, too. Ive done brakes and struts and did a PCV service on a volvo 850.. would i be over my head if i tried this? CV joints. The PO told me the smog guy said it had bad ones. I do get some weird lurching on really tight parking turns.. seemingly not all the time, though. Im fine with just doing both of them, Im mostly just wondering if there were any brands to avoid? Any suggestions on dealing with CVs? Under heavy breaking, theres a weird thumping coming from the back somewhere. Never notice anything during normal breaking, just if I really mash on it. Which is a little too often so far, im still used to driving a mini cooper jcw Id like to get a better feel from the shifter. Its not bad, just very non sporty. Are there shifter kits for this guy that are worthwhile? Are there any other subaru high mileage things i should be on the lookout for? Thanks!!
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Jan 23, 2014 06:47
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jamal posted:Yeah, that is definitely the u-joint bushings. Here is a diagram of the shifter: Thank you! I've got the Legacy B4 in Japan and lack tools, skills, etc to do it myself, but my mechanic is a cool dude and so we'll take a look on Saturday at his shop. The previous owner (also a goon) noticed how much play it had when we went on a road trip recently. From front to back still feels solid, but yeah, laterally it started having a lot of play recently. 13-year-old car, these things happen. I'll bring that image along for sure.
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Jan 23, 2014 07:46
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Well, that was fast. If you watch to the end they actually get air with both cars. When the WRX lands, the driver looks very close to losing it. Impressive nonetheless. I also noticed that they tended to focus on the shots of the front of the WRX. That thing is just really ho hum when viewed from the rear.
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Jan 23, 2014 14:50
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jamal posted:Pretty much that. 1000cc injector dynamics injcetors plus a fuel pump that can handle them. On a semi-related note, is the stock ECU map designed for 91, or does it adjust for other octanes? I almost never put anything less than 93 in my '06 OBXT (mostly because every place near me does 87-89-93) and when I have had to use 91 I didn't really notice a difference.
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Jan 23, 2014 15:26
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hedgegnome posted:So, i just bought a 99 outback sport wagon last week. Its AMAZING. Or at least, Im pretty happy with it, its super nice and the guy was almost giving it away. I got lucky getting to it first, he had 10 more emails before me, but I lived just down the street quote:The clutch is really high up on the pedal. It doesnt really feel like its slipping, but.. its really really high. Is this adjustable, or should i start thinking replacement? The hydraulic clutches I think have a small adjustment screw behind the clutch pedal that adjusts the preload there. A factory service manual should have more. quote:CV joints. The PO told me the smog guy said it had bad ones. I do get some weird lurching on really tight parking turns.. seemingly not all the time, though. Im fine with just doing both of them, Im mostly just wondering if there were any brands to avoid? Any suggestions on dealing with CVs? Get the right axle pin tool before you start and make sure you line everything up right. A PO of my car lined it up one tooth off so the pin only went halfway in, then cut the part of the pin that stuck out off and hammered it into the collar to make it stay in place. That sucked and I wish I could strangle that person. Make sure you replace the axle nut too, and torque it appropriately - they are intended to be one time use though I know I've reused them many more times than that. quote:Under heavy breaking, theres a weird thumping coming from the back somewhere. Never notice anything during normal breaking, just if I really mash on it. Which is a little too often so far, im still used to driving a mini cooper jcw quote:Id like to get a better feel from the shifter. Its not bad, just very non sporty. Are there shifter kits for this guy that are worthwhile? quote:Are there any other subaru high mileage things i should be on the lookout for? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 16:15
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I also got the cardone select from rock auto. They are shiny and fit, but I haven't driven anywhere. The axels will only go on one way. if it looks like they are half lined up, its because they are and you need to turn it 180 degrees. I used a nail and an allen key to do the roll pins. That sucked, I should have gotten something else to do it. First one took 4 hours, the second one an hour. Key is to take the strut, tierod and the sway bar link off. Then everything will push easily.
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Jan 23, 2014 18:52
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Roll pin punch to get them out. It has a little point sticking out to stay centered on the pin. 1/4 extension turned backward to get them in. I just unbolt the ball joint and endlink, but that can open up a whole can of worms sometimes. If you undo the castle nut and hit the arm on the side right next to it with a hammer a few times it will usually come loose. Then you can pry the arm down, push the upright and strut out far enough to remove the axle, and not have to worry about getting an alignment. I have napa axles up front. Something like $80 each, no complaints. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 20:13
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RE: axles I have a punch I use that's the perfect size to one shot the pins out, but I want a company 23 tool for going back in. I have always done my axles by marking the top strut bolt as it sets camber, removing both strut bolts, pull the knuckle outward and remove the inner then outer axle ends. Napa axles vibrated on my auto but are fine on 5mts. I run cardone selects off rock auto for both my RS and legacy without issue.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:04
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My Oil Dip Stick decided that it doesn't like staying in place, and it partially popped out of it's normal spot. It shot a quart and a half of oil all over my engine. I replaced it with another used dispstick I have, and it did the same thing. I put some superglue on the yellow plastic handle and let it dry to get home. The theory being that it makes a perfect cirle that's a little wider. Now it doesn't pop out anymore, but is this a sign of too much oil pressure or some other issue? It seems to me that high pressure in the crankcase isn't a good thing. daslog fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 21:44
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daslog posted:My Oil Dip Stick decided that it doesn't like staying in place, and it partially popped out of it's normal spot. It shot a quart and a half of oil all over my engine. Pop the oil filler and put your hand over it at idle. If you feel an aggressive thrusting instead of vacuum you should look at your PCV for starters. My 03 had so much crankcase pressure that unscrewing the oil filler cap at idle would make it launch into the air on the next exhaust pulse. It burned a poo poo ton of oil too. After replacing the PCV it has mild vacuum at idle now.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:54
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Some of that evil red stuff was found on the chassis today, and I don't mean Subaru's paint, unfortunately.  Time to do the various rituals and hope for a speedy recovery. Doesn't look too terrible though.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:57
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DJCommie: Sent you an email, hope you got it!
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Jan 23, 2014 22:19
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Anyone have a spare EJ257 short block laying around? My Sti is getting up there in mileage.
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Jan 24, 2014 16:00
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jamal posted:Pretty much that. 1000cc injector dynamics injcetors plus a fuel pump that can handle them. Hrm, that starts to sound like more trouble than it's worth. Anything else to be aware of with the EJ255 (that's right, isn't it?) when it gets up there in milage? Or tranny/diff issues? Obviously clutch, but from a quick Google that doesn't sound like a horrible job.
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Jan 24, 2014 17:02
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saint gerald posted:Hrm, that starts to sound like more trouble than it's worth. The timing belt is the big one to worry about with mileage on the EJ255. As long as oil changes have been done religiously, and the tune is good, the rest should be fine. Outside of the motor, the turbo is something to watch out for. The TD04 is not known for its longevity. Seller already mentioned that he notices no smoke and oil consumption though, so that's a good sign if it's true. The trans is a trickier one, if not abused, there really aren't many issues with it. The only one I can think of is that the TOB wears on the snout if it is left in bad shape for any period of time, but there's a fairly easy fix for this (google TSK3). The stock diffs aren't much of anything in the first place, so they don't tend to wear out because they don't do much. STI DCCD being an exception to this since it actually does things. It would not hurt to take it to a reputable Subaru service center and have them do a compression check, pull the downpipe off the turbo and have a look at the condition, pull the timing belt covers and have a look there. When I bought my spec.B, I did so from Chicago with the seller in NJ. I arranged it with a shop to have him drop it off and I'd pay for the inspection (cost me $50 to have all of the above done along with an oil change, since I was about to drive it 1300 miles or so back home) as long as they sent both of us the report directly. Seller had no problem with this, and it worked out very well for both of us.
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Jan 24, 2014 17:15
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si posted:It would not hurt to take it to a reputable Subaru service center and have them do a compression check, pull the downpipe off the turbo and have a look at the condition, pull the timing belt covers and have a look there. When I bought my spec.B, I did so from Chicago with the seller in NJ. I arranged it with a shop to have him drop it off and I'd pay for the inspection (cost me $50 to have all of the above done along with an oil change, since I was about to drive it 1300 miles or so back home) as long as they sent both of us the report directly. Seller had no problem with this, and it worked out very well for both of us. This sounds like it'd be the way to go, if the seller's agreeable. Thanks.
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Jan 24, 2014 19:43
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Edit: oh hey they're adjustable, nm
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Jan 24, 2014 19:51
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What bulb do I need for the illumination of my lighter socket on my 2006? I was being hamfisted back there and killed it. Edit: Attack on Titan Forester advert.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQkgmHEA5_E InitialDave fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jan 24, 2014 |
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Jan 24, 2014 20:09
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InitialDave posted:What bulb do I need for the illumination of my lighter socket on my 2006? I was being hamfisted back there and killed it. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2006-subaru-wrx--ash+tray/59-1139--481942/
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Jan 24, 2014 21:15
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brosef deluxe posted:DJCommie: Sent you an email, hope you got it! Replying! hedgegnome posted:So, i just bought a 99 outback sport wagon last week. Its AMAZING. Or at least, Im pretty happy with it, its super nice and the guy was almost giving it away. I got lucky getting to it first, he had 10 more emails before me, but I lived just down the street My 99 OBS was just totalled, and I had replaced my axles not too long ago. Interested?
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Jan 24, 2014 21:38
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Anyone want a used (95xxx km) EJ20 water pump? Replacing mine with my timing belt this coming week. It's in perfect shape.
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Jan 24, 2014 23:23
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So one of my headlights aims really high, and the other is fine. Guess which one has an an adjustment screw behind the air intake and power steering and which one has it next to the battery out in the open. 
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Jan 25, 2014 01:32
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So one of my headlights aims really high, and the other is fine. Guess which one has an an adjustment screw behind the air intake and power steering and which one has it next to the battery out in the open. Your drivers side headlight is supposed to aim lower.
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Jan 25, 2014 01:35
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Powershift posted:Your drivers side headlight is supposed to aim lower. My drivers side headlight aims to the sky and blinds everyone in front of me.
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Jan 25, 2014 01:44
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Does anyone know the nut size for the bottom trans stud? Either I forgot to replace it or it backed out, despite triple checking torque specs after my clutch swap a month ago. 
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Jan 25, 2014 03:17
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