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Depends on if replica means "show piece" or replica means "fake ski lift chair you can sit on." Of course PVC won't do for the latter.
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Jan 7, 2014 03:31
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I'm going more for the latter. I grew up near Cannon Mountain in NH, and when they decommissioned the old double chair a few locals bought some chairs and made some terrific shrines to them. One of them in between Franconia Inn and Cannon on a back road has two mounted to a welded steel frame in the middle of a gorgeous garden along with a sign inviting people to enjoy it and sit down. I want to replicate that the best I can.
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Jan 7, 2014 05:38
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So with all the wonderful cold, and living in the south where nothing was really built to withstand lower than about 30 degrees, it looks like we have a frozen pipe. It's affected every tap and shitter in the house. All of the internal lines run through the basement where it actually hasn't been that cold: went down there with an infrared thermometer and nothing was lower than 55 degrees unless I pointed it at the outside door, which was still only 45. None of the interior lines appear to be frozen, I already had the outside faucets shut off, and the one pipe that exists in an outside wall is on the opposite end of the house from everything else, leading me to assume it's the outside line. Which is of course buried. I've never experienced this before so I'm not sure what the protocol is. If we were to call a plumber out could they really do anything that didn't involve digging up the yard? Temperatures are expected to get above freezing today for a while but I don't know if that'd do it either.
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Jan 8, 2014 14:06
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Tim Thomas posted:I'm going more for the latter. I grew up near Cannon Mountain in NH, and when they decommissioned the old double chair a few locals bought some chairs and made some terrific shrines to them. One of them in between Franconia Inn and Cannon on a back road has two mounted to a welded steel frame in the middle of a gorgeous garden along with a sign inviting people to enjoy it and sit down. I want to replicate that the best I can. It would make an amazing porch swing. You could check the scrap yards for the tubing. Can you weld? Also try fix it fast thread.
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Jan 8, 2014 15:14
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:It would make an amazing porch swing. You could check the scrap yards for the tubing. Can you weld? I can't, but I am willing to learn for something like this. Cheapo stick welder would do it, right?
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Jan 8, 2014 21:11
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Here's a fun one: My garage is under the kitchen, and the drain pipe from the kitchen sink and dishwasher clogged today. I think the water in the pipe froze it shut, but that didn't occur to me at first. Instead, I attacked the drain with a toilet plunger. Air came bubbling up and I heard a loud trickle from under the dishwasher. Then an unholy amount of black sludge came gushing out from beneath the dishwasher. I opened the baseplate and found a 1/2 or 3/4" copper pipe with an open end. The drainage from my sink now comes directly out of said pipe. My question is: what the gently caress is that open pipe for? Is it the vent? If so, shouldn't it be somewhere else and/or have some kind of cap? For background, this is a 60-year old house and the previous owners were insane.
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Jan 9, 2014 00:44
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It must be the drain from the dishwasher, which dumps into the garbage disposal or sink drain. If the sink drain is blocked, the pressure from the plunger could have popped it loose at the dishwasher and let all the water out that way. Why it would be copper, though... Normally it is a flexible plastic hose. There shouldn't have been any water in the drain pipe to freeze. That would only happen if there was a blockage already, or if part of the drain is sloping uphill. Which can happen. I had to fix an uphill sink drain in my own house.
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Jan 9, 2014 03:06
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Any reason against using a S trap on a bathroom basin? vvv Time to rig up a pair of 90* elbows EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jan 13, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 14:38
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Any reason against using a S trap on a bathroom basin? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trap_(plumbing)#Accepted_traps quote:In many locations, "S" traps are no longer accepted by the plumbing codes and are even illegal, as these traps tend to easily siphon dry even when well-vented.
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Jan 11, 2014 20:35
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slap me silly posted:It must be the drain from the dishwasher, which dumps into the garbage disposal or sink drain. If the sink drain is blocked, the pressure from the plunger could have popped it loose at the dishwasher and let all the water out that way. Why it would be copper, though... Normally it is a flexible plastic hose. To follow up, it was exactly this. The horizontal cast iron that ran to the standpipe was clogged like a fat man's arteries. My handyman replaced the whole thing with PVC and now it doesn't just drain... It sucks. But we still don't know about the little mystery pipe. I slapped a shark bite and a screw cap on there. gently caress it!
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Jan 14, 2014 01:48
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I have a yard irrigation system. The house was built in '06, and I moved in '09. It's in the desert, so the tubing is buried underneath gravel and dry dirt. It worked pretty much without issue until maybe 4 or 5 months ago, when it started getting leaks. I ran to Home Depot, bought some tubing and some joints and patched up the leak. The next week, I got a new leak, maybe 2 feet away from the first leak. I patched that one, and it happened again. Then again, and again. For the most part, it's stayed localized to one segment of the irrigation line, but just recently I found out that a new leak has developed in a completely different stretch of the yard. Is there maybe something I'm doing wrong with my patch that makes new leaks develop? Each leak seems to be a linear crack in the tubing. At first I figured that I must have hit it with a shovel or something when I was working in the yard, but now I'm pretty skeptical of that explanation. I patch the leaks by cutting out the busted segment, and joining a new section of matching tubing in with a couple joints -- the sort that stay on by tension inside the tubing, and don't have any clamps.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:09
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Sounds like cheap (thin wall) or otherwise defective tubing was used. Or it was installed/handled improperly. Or your water pressure is too high for the system design. You'll have to decide when you draw the line between playing whack-a-mole with leaks and just replacing the whole thing. The tubing is inexpensive, but those connectors (the good ones) add up quick.
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Jan 14, 2014 21:40
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Wuhao posted:I have a yard irrigation system. The house was built in '06, and I moved in '09. It's in the desert, so the tubing is buried underneath gravel and dry dirt. It worked pretty much without issue until maybe 4 or 5 months ago, when it started getting leaks. I ran to Home Depot, bought some tubing and some joints and patched up the leak. The next week, I got a new leak, maybe 2 feet away from the first leak. I patched that one, and it happened again. Then again, and again. For the most part, it's stayed localized to one segment of the irrigation line, but just recently I found out that a new leak has developed in a completely different stretch of the yard. Is it PVC pipe that you have underground? If it is it sounds like you might have class 200. The stuff is a nightmare and it's always recommended that you rip it all out and replace with schedule 40 (for the sprinkler lines themselves) or schedule 80. (if it's the line that feeds your sprinkler valves. There's even better than 80, but that is the weakest I would use for always under pressure piping) If it's not PVC what kind of piping do you have? Different kinds of piping have different problems. If you can get me pictures and/or a description I can give you some ideas on what might be happening. High Lord Elbow posted:But we still don't know about the little mystery pipe. I slapped a shark bite and a screw cap on there. gently caress it! How far does it stick up? It could be the remnants of an improperly plumbed in drain pan. (or maybe they thought they would put in a drain pan and ran the pipe then never got around to it) I have seen a couple drain pans custom made for underneath dishwashers but in theory they wouldn't be direct-connected to the drain line unless they had a trap piped in and all sorts of other poo poo, only way I have seen them they ran to a laundry tub and were air-gapped properly there. Jadunk fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 07:13
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Does anyone have experience with "wedi"? It's a tile backerboard that is really expensive but supposedly fantastically waterproof, easy, low labor costs, etc. I'm waiting for my shower remodeler's estimate to come in, but he was going to provide me with two: one with a regular shower liner and pouring a concrete pan, and one with using wedi. We'll see which one is cheaper overall. I'd just never heard of this stuff before. It seems ...counter-intuitive for its purpose? It seems so spongey from the videos on youtube; I feel like laying a tile shower floor over it would lead to cracking when weight is put on it. The guy spoke highly of it, and he had all "A"s on Angies List. I don't know what to think!
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Jan 17, 2014 02:58
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Low labor means less work that he has to do, but it looks like it's significantly thicker than cement board for the same load, and has to be installed on top of a rigid subfloor, whereas cement board screws straight to the studs and joists.
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Jan 17, 2014 06:45
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thelightguy posted:Low labor means less work that he has to do, but it looks like it's significantly thicker than cement board for the same load, and has to be installed on top of a rigid subfloor, whereas cement board screws straight to the studs and joists. Ah. Well, we have a slab foundation and this bathroom's on the first floor, so I guess it'd be fine ?
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Jan 17, 2014 16:05
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drat Bananas posted:Does anyone have experience with "wedi"? It's a tile backerboard that is really expensive but supposedly fantastically waterproof, easy, low labor costs, etc. I'm waiting for my shower remodeler's estimate to come in, but he was going to provide me with two: one with a regular shower liner and pouring a concrete pan, and one with using wedi. We'll see which one is cheaper overall. I looked up a video and it seems very similar to the system that the ferrante brothers use on TOH, and if it's good enough for them it's probably a decent product?
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Jan 18, 2014 00:11
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My gas water heater is reading an error code of "upper sensor failure". It's a whirlpool. Is this something that is easily fixed? I can't even find where it is, there's nothing in the manual. It's model sg1j404 if that helps anything
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Jan 19, 2014 01:10
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AFewBricksShy posted:My gas water heater is reading an error code of "upper sensor failure". It's a whirlpool. Is this something that is easily fixed? I can't even find where it is, there's nothing in the manual. Sometimes the sensors come loose and you should check to make sire they're seated tightly and the leads are well connected to the control board, then restart the heater. If that fails you can call whirlpool and get a $25 +s/h replacement sensor kit. 
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Jan 19, 2014 18:56
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So I Am in the middle of a big project. We are rellocating a water heater (done) and installing a furnace (in Process). While we were running gas pipe for the water heater we were trying to isolate leaks in the system and my Dad disconnected the gas that ran to where the water heater used to be and where the furnace is going to be. We needed to replace some of it with larger diameter piping anyhow, but I didn't think it was really a great idea. The pipes are pretty old and rusty but I figure we can probably still use them. There is a union that he opened up getting that part disconnected on a vertical bit of pipe that was used to drop down below the joists to run counter to them. Dad thinks we should not re-use the union and instead just buy a new one. Is Is OK to use a union for gas piping? Should I replace the fitting? Should I replace the pipes themselves? Seems like they cost a fortune. Also, It looks like some of it may be old galvanized. Is this OK? I had always heard you should use the black stuff for gas.
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Jan 20, 2014 07:14
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therobit posted:So I Am in the middle of a big project. We are rellocating a water heater (done) and installing a furnace (in Process). While we were running gas pipe for the water heater we were trying to isolate leaks in the system and my Dad disconnected the gas that ran to where the water heater used to be and where the furnace is going to be. We needed to replace some of it with larger diameter piping anyhow, but I didn't think it was really a great idea. Your homeowners insurance may drop you if everything isn't to code. Do it right with black iron. As a diyer it was cheaper for me to buy it from a local hvac company. Pre cut and threaded.
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Jan 20, 2014 14:31
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Your homeowners insurance may drop you if everything isn't to code. What Mister Wife said... If you use something that's not up to code and your house explodes it's your problem and the Ins. company won't pay out. With something like gas lines you def don't want to gently caress around and go cheap.
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Jan 20, 2014 15:34
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Perhaps I should restate that. There id existing galvanized pipe. Do I need to remove it? I plan to purchase new black iron for all the stuff that will be new, and I have permits for all the work and am pressure testing it at 15lbs for 15 min (code requires 10/10). Is the galv. A safety concern wher I am connecting to it? I reckon it has been there a long time. Also I have googled around and find that unions in gas lunes are a contentious issue. This will be in a crawl space in Oregon.
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Jan 20, 2014 19:09
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therobit posted:Perhaps I should restate that. There id existing galvanized pipe. Do I need to remove it? I plan to purchase new black iron for all the stuff that will be new, and I have permits for all the work and am pressure testing it at 15lbs for 15 min (code requires 10/10). Is the galv. A safety concern wher I am connecting to it? I reckon it has been there a long time. Also I have googled around and find that unions in gas lunes are a contentious issue. This will be in a crawl space in Oregon. I would remove as much existing as possible and replace with new since it's already apart & for peace of mind. I have unions in the black iron piping in my house and there must be 100 at my work. Smear a bit of dope on the mating surfaces.
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Jan 21, 2014 01:12
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therobit posted:Perhaps I should restate that. There id existing galvanized pipe. Do I need to remove it? I plan to purchase new black iron for all the stuff that will be new, and I have permits for all the work and am pressure testing it at 15lbs for 15 min (code requires 10/10). Is the galv. A safety concern wher I am connecting to it? I reckon it has been there a long time. Also I have googled around and find that unions in gas lunes are a contentious issue. This will be in a crawl space in Oregon. If the existing galvi looks okay and has no leaks leave it be. If it looks like poo poo replace it with galvi or black, galvi being the better option. Replace any old shut off valves on the parts you will be pressurizing for your tests. Basic rule on unions is that you can't conceal them however sometimes inspectors will let you conceal them if you score the threads. Better way to connect to existing stuff for repair work is a left hand thread nipple/coupling. edit: Also I forgot to mention, if legal in your area you could consider just replacing all of it in CSST. The stuff is super easy to work with.
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Jan 22, 2014 04:13
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So I'm setting up some irrigated grow areas on my upstairs deck. I need to set up a stack of the following: timer - backflow valve - filter - pressure reg. Instead of securing this to the foundation wall spigot outside with 3/4" GHT, I want to run a hose from there up to the upstairs deck which I can disconnect and remove. For one because I don't want someone stealing the timer and two because there's limited space down there. So what I need is some way to anchor the plumbing to my wooden deck railing to which I can connect the irrigation stack. Foundation spigot 3/4" GHT MHT -> FHT hose MHT -> FHT deck mystery connector/fitting MHT -> irrigation stack. The mystery connector can be a valve or straight pipe coupling/connector but it needs to be 3/4" with FHT input and MHT output and I need to be able to secure it some way to the deck railing like with a bracket. Anyone have any ideas? cowofwar fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jan 24, 2014 |
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Jan 24, 2014 21:24
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Bell hangers?
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Jan 24, 2014 22:00
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Motronic posted:Bell hangers?
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Jan 24, 2014 22:24
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I have a 3 year old Toto toilet that seems to be overflowing the tank. Here is what the tank looks like: A few weeks ago the water would will up to the brown area, but now it's going half an inch over. It just did it all of a sudden. The water will fill over the white pipe, stop filling, and the toilet bowl has too much water. Eventually the toilet bowl will settle back down to it's normal area, but the tank is still too high. I looked up a bunch of videos on how to adjust the water level on a toilet, but none have led me to a Toto which doesn't use a standard ball/chain thing. Anyone know if something is wrong with the filler itself, or can I even adjust this thing? The only thing I've managed to do is remove the green cover and twist a white screw that loosens the filler, but doesn't seem to do anything else.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:58
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There should be and adjustment scew on or near the float that cuts the water off. Make sure that the float can move freely and isnt scummed up.
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Jan 26, 2014 00:11
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tater_salad posted:There should be and adjustment scew on or near the float that cuts the water off. Make sure that the float can move freely and isnt scummed up. If that doesn't work, you may also have to take apart the fill valve slightly to get to the seat washer. There might have been something in your lines that worked its way to that washer that now is keeping it from closing completely and making a good seal.
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Jan 26, 2014 08:08
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Probably best to just replace the fill valve. Should cost you less than 20 bucks and take 5-10 minutes, tops.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:34
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Jadunk posted:Probably best to just replace the fill valve. Should cost you less than 20 bucks and take 5-10 minutes, tops. "Should" being the key word there. I can think of quite a few ways that could make it take longer. But it's it's just the fill valve that's broken, your shut off valves actually shut off and you don't break anything else while removing it, then all you need is channellock pliers and a couple rags. You might need a helper too if your arms aren't long enough to lay on the ground to tighten the nut underneath the tank for the new fill valve while reaching into the tank with your other hand to hold the fill valve in place. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 19:44
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kid sinister posted:"Should" being the key word there. I can think of quite a few ways that could make it take longer. But it's it's just the fill valve that's broken, your shut off valves actually shut off and you don't break anything else while removing it, then all you need is channellock pliers and a couple rags. You might need a helper too if your arms aren't long enough to lay on the ground to tighten the nut underneath the tank for the new fill valve while reaching into the tank with your other hand to hold the fill valve in place. Look, if it was my house I'd try pulling apart the fill valve and flushing it / checking the washers because I know it wouldn't take me more than 2-3 minutes to check that. Replacing a fill valve outright is much easier than pulling it apart to try and repair it. The toilet is 3 years old so the odds of the angle stop not working is pretty low. It's a 2 piece toto so probably any small bowl, bucket or trash can will fit under the existing fill valve during the replacement.
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Jan 26, 2014 20:26
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My ancient ceramic cistern has been collecting condensation because the water refilling it is so cold. It doesn't drip too much except when the heating's on higher or someone's taking a shower. Are cisterns fairly easy to replace or should I just get a plumber to replace the whole toilet, which is an old S-trap (I had to google) Armitage Shanks model. When we had the shower redone the plumber said that he'd have to gently caress with the drainpipe if we wanted a modern toilet but I don't entirely understand his reasoning beyond that the drainpipe isn't at the correct angle and he'd have to dig up floorboards and stuff in our bedroom in order to change it, which would be an extra £800. Is that unreasonable? Chas McGill fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jan 31, 2014 |
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Jan 31, 2014 01:34
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Chas McGill posted:My ancient ceramic cistern has been collecting condensation because the water refilling it is so cold. It doesn't drip too much except when the heating's on higher or someone's taking a shower. Are cisterns fairly easy to replace or should I just get a plumber to replace the whole toilet, which is an old S-trap (I had to google) Armitage Shanks model. I had to look up "ceramic cistern". In the US, we call that the toilet "tank" and a cistern is used outdoors to collect rainwater. That being said, you'll honestly have that condensation problem during the winter with any water storage device holding cold water. Modern toilet tanks are still just porcelain tubs, just like they've been for decades. Now if that water on the tank was coming from it leaking, that's another story. What do you mean "not at the correct angle"? Toilets mount to flanges on the floor, and they too haven't changed in a really long time. You might need to lower your water pipe on the wall to meet up with your new tank, but that should be fairly easy.
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Jan 31, 2014 16:30
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kid sinister posted:That being said, you'll honestly have that condensation problem during the winter with any water storage device holding cold water. I think you mean in the summer. At least that's when it's worst if you live in a high humidity area and don't AC the crap out of your house. For that situation they make a "toilet mixing valve" that add a bit of hot water to the mix so what ends up in the bowl is closer to room temp (and therefore won't make the porcelain "sweat").
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Jan 31, 2014 17:19
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Motronic posted:I think you mean in the summer. At least that's when it's worst if you live in a high humidity area and don't AC the crap out of your house. Depends, I have seen it happen during both. Sometimes people will keep their house heated to 75-80 in the winter and with the incoming water being cooler in the winter you can get condensation a little while after you flush. First time I encountered it in the field was in the winter, it took me like 3 trips and 2 phone calls to finally figure it out.
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Feb 2, 2014 03:40
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Jadunk posted:Depends, I have seen it happen during both. Sometimes people will keep their house heated to 75-80 in the winter Ahhh...yeah, that would do it too.
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Feb 2, 2014 04:23
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kid sinister posted:I had to look up "ceramic cistern". In the US, we call that the toilet "tank" and a cistern is used outdoors to collect rainwater. That being said, you'll honestly have that condensation problem during the winter with any water storage device holding cold water. Modern toilet tanks are still just porcelain tubs, just like they've been for decades. Now if that water on the tank was coming from it leaking, that's another story. He told me that the drainpipe doesn't have enough of a gradient and that the flange is too far away from the wall to fit a modern toilet. I don't think the slope of the drainpipe relates to fitting a new toilet, but he said it was something we should sort out before there are any problems. Here's a pic: 
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Feb 2, 2014 16:08
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