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You may not need 3/4 drive, but you certainly don't need to be breaking 1/2 drive stuff either. I love 3/4 drive because I can go full hulk mode on it even if it's chinesium and never worry about breaking it, while I have to constantly worry about breaking 1/2 drive stuff if something's really stuck.
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Jan 20, 2014 01:07
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InitialDave posted:They're a wall-drive design, so it shouldn't be a major issue - and with it being a breaker and tommy bar rather than a ratchet, the smaller angle between potential fits does have an advantage. What do you mean by a wall drive design?
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Jan 20, 2014 01:26
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I've got the same halfords 3/4" set and it has proved pretty handy when needed. It's annoying that the blow moulded box is done for a ratchet though and they just stick the breaker bar into it.
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Jan 20, 2014 03:00
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Cakefool posted:Power tools: I can see me needing a new battery drill soon and this might be the time I do it properly, any brand recommendations? Anyone use the ryobi one plus system? Yes. I have this set and I love it. It's fantastic for the price and well beyond adequate for a weekend-warrior household project uses: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-One-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-P882/203406854 But whatever you buy be sure to get an impact driver included. I find the impact more useful than the plain drill and everyone should have one.
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Jan 20, 2014 07:05
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dyne posted:What do you mean by a wall drive design?  I twist apart threads and shanks a lot more often than I round off heads. Colonel K posted:I've got the same halfords 3/4" set and it has proved pretty handy when needed. It's annoying that the blow moulded box is done for a ratchet though and they just stick the breaker bar into it. Rechargeable tool question: My friend has been given an AEG rechargeable drill, 12v I think, but the battery packs seem to be rather lacking in capacity. Tell me about repacking them with standard cells. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jan 20, 2014 |
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Jan 20, 2014 18:21
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Slice it open, count the cells, buy new ones (with tabs spot welded on) solder together, repack case. I did this at a previous job and pocketed the difference (maybe £45 each?) for about 5 packs. Got it down to about an hour.
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Jan 20, 2014 22:04
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Any comments/reviews on the Rockwell Jawhorse? I was looking at the sheetmaster version. I don't really have room for a workbench in my garage but this looks like it would offer a ton of versatility. edit: too late, bought the sheetmaster jawhorse OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 20:30
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So I need to get some more shelving for my garage and am having a hard time deciding what to do. Currently I have two shelves made with something like these and the two foot long shelf brackets with a hefty piece of plywood set on top. Works pretty well, and they've been up for going on 4 years now, but I'm still hesitant to set something very heavy on them. I'm still in the process of cleaning up the garage, so I'm not 100% sure yet how much shelving I'll actually need. So far I've thought about making a freestanding shelf out of wood, but I figure by the time I buy the wood and the effort spent building it, I'd come out better just buying something like this. I don't plan on putting anything super heavy on them, but the ability to hold a couple hundred pounds and have adjustable height would be a big bonus. Being able to take it with me when I move in a couple years would be even better. What is everyone else doing for shelving solutions? Should I just go with something similar to the setup I have already? Ideally having 2'-3' under the first shelf would be great so I could have stuff on the floor underneath as well. e: Anyone used these Blitz Boxes? Dude at work was telling me about them and I could definitely see a use for these somewhere if they hold up well. I drive a BBW fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 21:18
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I have a steel shelve like the Lowes link you posted. Maybe the same one. The particle board deck surface is kind of flimsy. I stored a few bags of lawn products and ice melter on the bottom shelf and the decking is so warped that it's basically destroyed. My dad can barely use a hammer but he got sturdy results from these bracket things and a pile of cheap 2x4s. Went together pretty quickly too. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...CFVQV7AodDx0A9g
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Jan 21, 2014 21:58
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If I buy shelves and they come with particle board it gets tossed and replaced with 3/4" CDX. Though I usually build shelves with 3/4" CDX, 2x4 stringers under them, and something incredibly overbuilt for vertical supports. I'm pretty sure I could stack the shelves in my storage unit with Subaru engines end to end and they wouldn't sag.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:00
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I love new tools: Christmas presents that I'm finally getting to use, new bike work stand and (kinda) my new tool chests. Why didn't I buy a proper toolbox sooner this beats the piss out of having lumped together in one box.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:11
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I'm in the market for a corded powerdrill. Usually DeWalt is my go-to brand, but their quality definitely isn't what it used to be. I was leaning towards a Milwaukee drill. Any suggestions?
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Jan 25, 2014 07:43
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Bosch is another quality brand too. Pricy but awesome in terms of battery life!
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Jan 25, 2014 07:59
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I've got a Milwaukee Model #0234-6 5.5-Amp 1/2" with a keyed chuck and look it's even on sale. It's an older design that's been around a while because it's excellent and is much better than the higher amp version that sort of replaced it*. All the important bits are metal and the wear parts are designed to be replaced instead of throwing away the whole thing and buying a new one. The trigger is smooth and actually allows you to vary the speed with a reasonable amount of precision unlike a lot of the newer designs (from all the manufacturers) which are gritty and awful. The cord detaches at the base of the drill so when you stuff the thing in a box the strain relief doesn't sit at 90* and fail like every other drill I've had. Also it has a 5 year warranty. *It sort of seems like they are phasing the thing out but there are tons of them out there so I'm not sure. Galler fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 08:24
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Galler posted:I've got a Milwaukee Model #0234-6 5.5-Amp 1/2" with a keyed chuck and look it's even on sale. It's an older design that's been around a while because it's excellent and is much better than the higher amp version that sort of replaced it*. All the important bits are metal and the wear parts are designed to be replaced instead of throwing away the whole thing and buying a new one. The trigger is smooth and actually allows you to vary the speed with a reasonable amount of precision unlike a lot of the newer designs (from all the manufacturers) which are gritty and awful. The cord detaches at the base of the drill so when you stuff the thing in a box the strain relief doesn't sit at 90* and fail like every other drill I've had. Also it has a 5 year warranty. That thing looks like a workhorse, I honestly have not seen a sturdy corded drill like that in ages. Everyone on the jobsite uses cordless to avoid extension cords on nearly every tool. Fond memories of electrical tape holding a key on the cord.
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Jan 25, 2014 20:30
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StormDrain posted:That thing looks like a workhorse, I honestly have not seen a sturdy corded drill like that in ages. Everyone on the jobsite uses cordless to avoid extension cords on nearly every tool. Fond memories of electrical tape holding a key on the cord. [quote="blk96gt" post="424726877"] Currently I have two shelves made with something like these and the two foot long shelf brackets with a hefty piece of plywood set on top. Works pretty well, and they've been up for going on 4 years now, but I'm still hesitant to set something very heavy on them. [\quote]   I I donated 3-400 lbs off the rusty shelf this summer. Been holding strong for eight years. Hope to get ride of the non-bike stuff at Back to the 50s this year. The tracks are pretty strong, and fairly inexpensive. I buy mine at Menards, cheaper than Lowes, and they're marked Made In USA. I Throw away the junk screws that come with them and use some #8 or #10 screws. Pardon the mess, I was out there clearing floorspace for an unexpected brake job.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:50
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So I ended up picking up one of these Husky shelves and replaced the metal grating that came with it with some 3/4" plywood. That shelf is pretty drat solid. So, now that I've got the garage clean and organized, I got a yes from the wife to pick up a mig welder. My main requirements are 120v and ability to use gas or flux-cored. I've been eyeing the Hobart Handler 140 for a while now. Anyone have any opinions on it? Don't plan on welding any super thick metals, mostly sheet metal, exhaust, steel tubing, I don't think I'd ever see anything over 1/4". I've got a decent amount of Lowes gift cards as well, so I was looking at their Lincoln welders they have in stock too. How do they compare to the Hobart? Luckily, Lowes sells Amazon gift cards, so if the Lincoln welder doesn't compare to the Hobart, I'll just buy some Amazon cards!
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Jan 26, 2014 07:13
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What are good snap ring pliers? I thought I saw a post about them a week or two ago, but I'll be damned if I can find it now.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:41
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Krakkles posted:What are good snap ring pliers? I thought I saw a post about them a week or two ago, but I'll be damned if I can find it now.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:00
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I have had a set of $5 Craftsman snap ring pliers for about 3 years and they've been great. It's got the switch that lets you choose between inside/outside snap rings. It's not broken yet. A++++ would snap ring again.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:07
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Killer. Any suggestions on toolboxes for the back of a 4x4? The one I've got right now is a lovely craftsman plastic deal (something like this, though I bought it a few years ago), and I've got a few problems with it.
Edit: Something along these lines might work. Any other brands I should look at? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 00:01
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I dunno about toolboxes for one, but my 17" Husky hardsided toolbag has been holding together for around 6 months now being dragged to the junkyard once a week, left in the back of the jeep ratchet strapped to the spare tire so it won't tip over, and bounced around driving at lightspeed over anything. All that with 80-100lbs of tools in it. drat near everything required to fix anything on a jeep. This one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-17-in-Open-Tool-Tote-82002N11/203224201 I doubt anyone would believe me if I posted a full list of what I have packed in there in an organized manner.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:18
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http://www.amazon.com/Martin-PL1465K-Piece-Plier-Plastic/dp/B004JN0S3I These snap ring pliers are so cool, but there is no way I paid 100 dollars for those, I think it was more like 60.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:21
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kastein posted:I doubt anyone would believe me if I posted a full list of what I have packed in there in an organized manner. Post it and let us judge you.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:29
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Splizwarf posted:Post it and let us judge you. Alright, you asked for it  This is probably not complete, I forget what's in some pockets. HF orange plastic deadblow hammer Stanley engineers 4lb hand sledge full set of craftsman external torx sockets full set of shallow metric impact 1/2 drive full set of deep SAE impact 1/2 drive full set of SAE allen bits full set of metric allen bits full set of Torx bits two 1/4 ratchets, a 3/8 ratchet, a 1/2 ratchet, a 1/2 Husky breaker bar five each of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 extension bars two 7/8 box wrenches 15/16, 1 1/16, and 21mm box wrenches full set of SAE gearwrenches full set of metric gearwrenches dana 44 spindle nut socket (huge) two dana 60 spindle nut sockets (huge) 3/4 drive 1 5/16 socket 3/4 drive 1 7/16 socket 30mm and 36mm 1/2 drive sockets full set of assorted extension bar ujoints and adapters from 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 to all the others full set of metric adjustable crowsfoot style gearwrenches 10mm deep, 11mm deep, 12mm deep, 13mm deep, 14mm ultra shallow, 15mm ultra shallow, 16mm ultra shallow sockets snapon 312cp long reach diagonal cutters Wyse tin snips several pairs of visegrips a handful of punches and chisels a stanley locking adjustable wrench half a dozen flat blade and phillips screwdrivers 5/16 6 point box wrench AMC/Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep clutch alignment tool GM 60 degree V6 clutch alignment tool 8lb full-handle sledge cut down into the world's most brutal hand sledge Husky 3/4" breaker bar utility knife Craftsman snapring and lockring pliers, one each 8 and 10mm nutdrivers SAE and metric allen wrench foldup multitools 13 and 14mm 1/2 drive 12 point sockets full set 12 point 3/8 drive SAE sockets full set 12 point 3/8 drive metric sockets 1/2 drive 1 1/16, 1 1/8, and 1 1/4 sockets steering wheel puller set lug stud press tool a large bottle of antiseize 3/16 brass punch spark plug chaser full set (3x) spark plug sockets large harbor freight bearing separator kit Sears multi-ton (forget exactly what spec, LARGE) 3 jaw bearing puller pitman arm puller 9/16" and 5/8" allen wrenches (yes, you read that right, they're about a foot long each.) mini channel-locks medium channel-locks 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 10mm, and 11mm flare wrenches a handful of assorted small box wrenches I always need 9/16 stubby gearwrench deep 1/4 drive 12pt SAE socket set deep 3/8 drive 12pt SAE socket set e: there is a krikit II serp belt tensioner in there too. And a handful each of angle grinder 4.5" cutoff wheels and sawzall blades. I'm sure there are at least 6 things I'm forgetting, but I'll be damned if I can think of what they are. It's HEAVY. The funny thing is, every time I go to lighten the drat thing up, I realize I use most of these things on a reasonably frequent basis. I keep it all in one bag so I can throw that, the torque wrench, a cheater pipe, and a few other things in whatever I'm driving that day and know I have everything I will ever need. I've done repairs on the side of the road in 20 minutes most people would consider cause to call out of work and ring up AAA for a flatbed. My toolbag quadruples the value of the jeep it's placed in. Literally - nothing I drive is worth more than $500, or somewhat over $2k with the tools aboard. And it's all organized well enough that I can have any one of the most commonly used ones in my hand in 5 seconds without really looking, and any of the others in my hand within 30 seconds. This is why I get pissed when people put my tools back in the wrong goddamn spot, I'd rather they put them next to the toolbag in a pile so I can put them back properly. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 02:42
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kastein posted:Alright, you asked for it How on earth do you pack three large hammers, pullers, and that many sockets? I imagine most of the handled tools and wrenches fit in the pockets, but I can't figure the sockets. Do you have them on rails?
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Jan 27, 2014 03:33
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kastein posted:Alright, you asked for it Let's see a pic of this thing. Impressive.
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Jan 27, 2014 03:34
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I'll have to take a pic after work tomorrow. It's a tight fit. All the full sets of sockets are on rails, yes. And yeah that is drat near every tool I own for working on cars, aside from the balljoint press and adapter kit, GM steering column kit, and power tools. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 03:35
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That's impressive! With what we do, I really need an enclosed box, though, so I don't think it'll work for me. Thanks for the suggestion, though.
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Jan 27, 2014 16:10
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kastein posted:My toolbag quadruples the value of the jeep it's placed in. Literally - nothing I drive is worth more than $500, or somewhat over $2k with the tools aboard. kastein posted:And yeah that is drat near every tool I own for working on cars, aside from the balljoint press and adapter kit, GM steering column kit, and power tools. Man, you need to make sure your insurance knows before that thing walks one day. Sounds like a nice kit, what's it weigh?
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Jan 27, 2014 16:22
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A lot, I'm guessing 80-110 but not really sure honestly. It's in the back of the jeep right now and I'll be helping my sister do balljoints on her 1980 4cyl 5spd datsun 720 tonight, so if I can find a big enough scale in the shop I'll weigh it and take some pics.
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Jan 27, 2014 18:55
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Alright, here ya go. It has half vomited its contents here. (click for big) I don't have the 3/4" husky breaker bar in there in that picture, but I could easily fit it - and I forgot about the 20" pipe wrench, C clamp, brake caliper compressor tool, almost complete set of T-handle torx drivers, three gasket scrapers, a handful of metal files, set of Harbor Freight quick-ratchets (the little ones that fit 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive and are basically just the business end of a ratchet with no handle on it), funnel, brake bleeding hose, tubing cutter, and another few things that were in there, so it evens out None of our scales are large enough that I felt comfortable putting it on them. My calibrated right arm says around 100lbs. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jan 28, 2014 |
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Jan 28, 2014 19:35
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gently caress this wind chill below zero poo poo, someone recommend their favorite jump box. With a meaty on/off switch please.
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Jan 28, 2014 21:41
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I've been meaning to post about this and finally remembered. Anyone here ever use one of these thread repair kits? http://www.nes.co.il/ I actually had one at the shop and used one to fix a buggered up axle bolt on a BMW bike and the thing works like a champ. http://www.nes.co.il/158905/Nes-1017-External-4-19-mm-5-32-3-4-Internal-8-20-mm-5-16-13-16 I was surprised at how well it worked and having the basic tool which encompasses SAE/metric/whatever threads is cool as hell.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:09
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How challenging is it to properly repair threads? I have a trailing arm bolt that I think is stripped. I was gonna pay a shop to do it but I'd rather just learn how. I'm less worried about the cost of the tools are more concerned about damaging the car further with inexperience.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:37
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revmoo posted:How challenging is it to properly repair threads? I have a trailing arm bolt that I think is stripped. I was gonna pay a shop to do it but I'd rather just learn how. I'm less worried about the cost of the tools are more concerned about damaging the car further with inexperience. That really depends on where/what/how bad it is. All you are doing is drilling out out further, running a tap through to thread it to a larger size, and then inserting something that threads into the size you just made and has the original size pre-threaded on the inside. This is all easy - IF you can accurately drill the existing hole out flat, straight and centered. Sometimes access is the issue. Sometimes really screwed up threads and/or bolt removal makes this so difficult that little less than a milling machine will ever get the initial hole straight and centered again.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:40
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Splizwarf posted:gently caress this wind chill below zero poo poo, someone recommend their favorite jump box. With a meaty on/off switch please. I managed to pick up a 300A Stanely jumpit, seems to work OK, although it loses a lot of power due to being cold just sitting in my trunk. I am thinking of tearing the thing apart and replacing the sealed leadacid battery with a few lithium polymer packs. Should do better in subzero temps.
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Jan 29, 2014 00:08
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Looks like there's a nice clearance deal on kastein's toolbag (or at least a slightly smaller version), you can get it and 2 other bags for $15: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...3_0_0_0&cj=true
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Jan 30, 2014 21:31
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kastein posted:I probably have about the same amount of each... and I'm up to like 20 3/4 drive sockets. We're up to 1" drive on some stuff now.
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Jan 30, 2014 21:42
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I bought a ryobi one+ drill, 2 year warranty gives me some confidence. As they had 30% off I got the 4ah battery and the vacuum as well. Not tried the drill yet but the vacuum is incredible The only downside I've discovered yet is that the included charger is 450mah, and I got a 4ah battery for it.
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Feb 2, 2014 00:00
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