isr posted:Ok thanks. Useless at everything? From what I've read so far I got the impression they are decent and pretty well liked for what they are.. could you elaborate? They are laughably slow for a 'sports car' as they quite literally have a base model corolla engine. Also pretty average handling for something so small and light, hopelessly cramped, no real storage space. If you want a car like that I would strongly recommend a miata instead; it seems like a stereotype around here but they're popular in AI for a reason. The only thing you can really do to an MR-S to make it not suck quite so badly is drop in a celica 2ZZ-GE which would give you some real power and bolt in, but the electrical side of things is not for beginners. They just aren't a great car in general, why are you looking at an MR-S specifically?
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# ? Jan 26, 2014 23:11 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:02 |
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Slavvy posted:They are laughably slow for a 'sports car' as they quite literally have a base model corolla engine. Also pretty average handling for something so small and light, hopelessly cramped, no real storage space. If you want a car like that I would strongly recommend a miata instead; it seems like a stereotype around here but they're popular in AI for a reason. I just started looking for things that are decently sporty and have a manual transmission. The MR2 checked those boxes, and happened to find a decent example nearby. Also, OMG ENGINE IN THE BACK Found a 2004 Mazda Miata MX5 LS 1.8i nearby, going to look into it tomorrow.
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# ? Jan 26, 2014 23:35 |
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I would never call the MR2s handling average. Down on power and no storage space, sure.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 00:50 |
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kcormick9, try row52.com as well. Mighty Horse told me about that one, it's more for pick-n-pulls than fullservice yards, so prices are better but accuracy of available parts and convenience are down. I just use it to get a basic idea of what a yard has in stock before going for a half-day junkyard walkabout, so it works out better for me than car-part.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 01:53 |
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isr posted:I just started looking for things that are decently sporty and have a manual transmission. The MR2 checked those boxes, and happened to find a decent example nearby. Also, OMG ENGINE IN THE BACK Holy gently caress, found a different miata tonight, 2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5. A few hundred more than the MR2 I was looking at, but I like it so much better. Thanks Stupid Question Thread.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 02:20 |
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Bovril Delight posted:I would never call the MR2s handling average. Down on power and no storage space, sure. I think the issue is that the older gen MR2 is the one everyone idolizes as being go-kart like and quick(ish) especially in turbo trim, while the MR-S is seen as under-powered and I'm guessing not as fun to drive from what I've heard(honestly never drove one so I can't comment) I think it could be that people are expecting the MR-S to be a continuation of where the MR2 was heading but it ended up being something else so everyone is disappointed and making a stink over it.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 02:21 |
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My friend just picked up a set of wheels and we can't figure out what the center caps are from. I was thinking it might be a Mazda emblem of some sort. They say made in Japan on the back of them. The wheels are 4x114.3 if that helps. Not sure what wheels they are either. Has anyone seen these before?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 02:23 |
Bajaha posted:I think the issue is that the older gen MR2 is the one everyone idolizes as being go-kart like and quick(ish) especially in turbo trim, while the MR-S is seen as under-powered and I'm guessing not as fun to drive from what I've heard(honestly never drove one so I can't comment) I think it could be that people are expecting the MR-S to be a continuation of where the MR2 was heading but it ended up being something else so everyone is disappointed and making a stink over it. Everyone was expecting it to have the VVTLi celica engine which is really pretty good and powerful, if somewhat peaky and one-dimensional. Instead it got the extremely ordinary corolla 1.8 engine with 130-odd horsepower. It's pretty typical of Toyota's 2000's limp-dick approach to building anything remotely interesting. The GE engine bolts in for god's sake. They even went to the trouble of making an SMG version that still had the corolla motor. Comparisons to the SW20 and AW11 are pointless, it isn't remotely similar beyond being a RWD 2 seater with the engine in the back. And even in isolation, it just isn't A Good Car. The celica of that era is much more fun to drive, and the only real competition was the miata which blows it out of the water in every measurable way.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 02:30 |
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isr posted:Holy gently caress, found a different miata tonight, 2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5. A few hundred more than the MR2 I was looking at, but I like it so much better. Thanks Stupid Question Thread. YUSSS! Buy it! I kick myself every day I haven't bought a Mazdaspeed MX-5.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 02:33 |
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I installed a new thermostat in my '87 Mazda b2000 today and it's definitely improved things -- the car starts to warm up properly in like 4-5 minutes now instead of barely registering anything for 30 minutes. But even after driving it for 10 mins or so it's not going much past the bottom C mark on the dash temperature gauge and the cabin heat is still blowing cold. Is there anything else that could cause this other than a stuck open thermostat?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 03:45 |
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Parts Kit posted:I installed a new thermostat in my '87 Mazda b2000 Did you bleed the cooling system properly? Could have a big air bubble in there still.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 04:10 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did you bleed the cooling system properly? Could have a big air bubble in there still.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 04:15 |
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kastein posted:kcormick9, try row52.com as well. Mighty Horse told me about that one, it's more for pick-n-pulls than fullservice yards, so prices are better but accuracy of available parts and convenience are down. Thanks for that. Looks like all of the local Pick n Pull yards have listings on there.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 04:43 |
Reading around online has led me to a good bit of people complaining about Exide batteries not being as good as they used to be. Is that the case, or are people just being grumpy? I have one that needs replacement under the pro-rata warranty but if they are crap now that might tilt me in favor of not bothering with the 50 mile drive for a warranty replacement and just paying the extra few bucks now on a Johnson Controls or East Penn manufactured battery.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 04:54 |
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Parts Kit posted:I think so. I followed the short instructions for it in my haynes manual anyways. They basically amounted to 'with radiator cap off, fill radiator, start engine & idle until thermostat opens, add coolant as necessary, squeeze upper hose to make sure no air is in it' though. Do you happen to have a link on how to do it or could you write up something real fast? This is the general procedure, though on some cars it helps to do so with the front end raised (park it facing up on a driveway, on ramps, etc) and it can take a good long while. On my old 350 in the GMC I could never get it done in one cycle, I'd be topping it off for the next week or two as it kept burping out air.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 04:55 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is the general procedure, though on some cars it helps to do so with the front end raised (park it facing up on a driveway, on ramps, etc) and it can take a good long while. On my old 350 in the GMC I could never get it done in one cycle, I'd be topping it off for the next week or two as it kept burping out air.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 05:22 |
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row52.com doesn't find any TJ's in junkyards within 100 miles of me. Not that that's a negative review on the site, I've never seen Jeeps even hit the junkyards around San Antonio
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 05:23 |
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NinjaTech posted:My friend just picked up a set of wheels and we can't figure out what the center caps are from. I was thinking it might be a Mazda emblem of some sort. They say made in Japan on the back of them. The wheels are 4x114.3 if that helps. Not sure what wheels they are either. Has anyone seen these before? Some type of Borbet Type-E replica.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 05:53 |
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Today I had the Tire Pressure Monitoring System warning light came on. Turns out a nail punctured the tire. I'll be getting a new tire soon (donut for now), but howdo am I supposed to clear the warning light?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jan 27, 2014 |
# ? Jan 27, 2014 08:31 |
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My dad left me an entire garage of tools and some basic car know how. How do I continue to learn? I was thinking of getting a cheap project car and just working on it and learning as I went along. Am I insane for wanting to do this? Am I insane for considering a car like this?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 09:19 |
That is a good idea and not insane at all. I'd just avoid a convertible, e30's are great to learn the spannering game on but the convertible ones are what I'd call veteran difficulty and not for first-time players.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 09:27 |
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I really do want a convertible though. The whole reason that spawned the idea is that it would be cool to have a fun spring/summer car for lake trips and the like where I could put the top down. Then store it in fall/winter.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 09:36 |
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melon cat posted:Today I had the Tire Pressure Monitoring System warning light came on. Turns out a nail punctured the tire. I'll be getting a new tire soon (donut for now), but how do am I supposed to clear the warning light? It'll go away once your tire is repaired or replaced, assuming the sensor isn't damaged. The sensor itself is at the inside end of the valve stem (the thing you add air to). If it did get damaged, any good tire shop should be able to replace it + program it into the car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Jan 27, 2014 |
# ? Jan 27, 2014 09:58 |
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BiohazrD posted:I really do want a convertible though. The whole reason that spawned the idea is that it would be cool to have a fun spring/summer car for lake trips and the like where I could put the top down. Then store it in fall/winter. Miaaaaataaaaaa!
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 10:25 |
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A possibility. I can safely say I prefer the aesthetics of the 3 series over a Miata, but my regular car is a '12 Mazda 3 and I do love me some Mazda.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 10:28 |
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I'm heading to the United States for the first time this March and like any good AI goon would like to get my hands on a convertible Mustang for the LA to San Francisco leg. I'm very wary of the "or similar" Chrysler Sebring and was wondering what the best approach is for getting the rental I want, preferably without paying through the nose, any hints AI?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 10:39 |
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BiohazrD posted:I really do want a convertible though. The whole reason that spawned the idea is that it would be cool to have a fun spring/summer car for lake trips and the like where I could put the top down. Then store it in fall/winter. Get a Wrangler if you want a convertible without the old and busted mechanical nightmare that any used folding top will have.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 14:02 |
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Chunderbuss posted:I'm heading to the United States for the first time this March and like any good AI goon would like to get my hands on a convertible Mustang for the LA to San Francisco leg. Just call the rental company and request it. Be warned that rental mustangs are poo poo.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 14:07 |
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I had a rental convertible Mustang last year and thought it was a pretty fun car.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 14:27 |
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Using Ford's 60 month- 0% , if I make a large payment all at once, will it make my monthly payment go down, or just shorten the length of the loan?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 15:19 |
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A down payment before you start the loan will lower your monthly payments. A big payment your first month will be applied to your principal, but your monthly payment will stay the same. That part is locked in the contract. You just pay off the loan sooner as a result (and pay less interest if you didn't have a 0% loan).
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 15:35 |
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I don't think there's a metallurgy megathread, so I'll ask this here. I'm thinking of getting some custom brackets cut by Robinson Laser, but I'll have to bend them myself. Will something like 15ga steel be thick enough to support a ~1/2 lb light , or should I go thicker? If I go thicker and I need to heat the steel in order to bend it, I should quench it in water, right?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 19:46 |
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Steel is already tempered, no need to quench. You'll make it brittle.EightBit posted:Get a Wrangler if you want a convertible without the old and busted mechanical nightmare that any used folding top will have. I would be 100% cool with a wrangler. I'll start keeping an eye out on Craigslist for one since this project is a few months out either way.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 19:59 |
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Uthor posted:A down payment before you start the loan will lower your monthly payments. Some places will move it toward future payments. 500 payment at my bank on 250/month loan would take care of 2 months.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 20:12 |
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Bovril Delight posted:Some places will move it toward future payments. 500 payment at my bank on 250/month loan would take care of 2 months. I've found that I still have to make interest payments, regardless of how far ahead I am on the loan. If I make two payments, even on the same day, then it also knocks out the payment for the next month. This is with Carmax Auto Finance though, so YMMV.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 20:32 |
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Bovril Delight posted:Some places will move it toward future payments. 500 payment at my bank on 250/month loan would take care of 2 months. some texas redneck posted:I've found that I still have to make interest payments, regardless of how far ahead I am on the loan. My bad. I never heard of loans working like that. The correct answer is to read your contract, then!
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 20:48 |
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I've got an old tractor with a battery that needs to be recharged, and I'd like to get a charger that I can use both with it and with my cars. I know almost gently caress all about batteries and electrics, however, can anyone point me in the right direction for finding out what kind of battery I've got in the tractor, and what kind of charger I will need to support it?
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 21:59 |
I'd be extremely surprised if it is anything other than an ordinary old lead-acid battery. The only thing to ascertain is if it's 12 volt or 24 volt. Most modern chargers are able to flip between the two with a switch so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm assuming the tractor isn't from the 1950's, because then it would have a 6 volt system and you would be poo poo out of luck.
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 22:04 |
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If it is a 12v, would something like this be adequate to recharge and maintain the battery between uses?: http://batterytender.com/products/automotive/battery-tender-plus-high-efficiency.html
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 22:21 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:02 |
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The Third Man posted:I've got an old tractor with a battery that needs to be recharged If it's been sitting for a long time needing a charge it's a good bet that the battery is going to need to be replaced. Non deep-cycle lead acid batteries don't handle being deep-discharged well and the longer they sit in that state you have less of a chance of successfully reviving them. Once you determine the voltage of the system (if it's a consumer-level tractor from the 60s onwards it's almost undoubtedly 12v) and replace the battery I would suggest getting a Harbor Freight trickle charger, they're typically on sale for $10 and are one of the few electronics they sell that last longer than a week and actually do what they're intended to do well. Unless the charging system on your tractor is shot you shouldn't need to worry about recharging the battery between uses, but the battery will slowly drain over time while sitting requiring use of a trickle/float charger. The one you linked would work as well but is a bit expensive for your needs.I
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# ? Jan 27, 2014 22:47 |