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jvick posted:I just bought this off Amazon last month and love it! I wanted leather though in particular since I'll use it for metal work as well. I like that it has the two top pockets for pens, etc. and no lower pockets to fill with shavings. I have this one too and it's great because it's sold by a store called Weldfabulous
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Jan 29, 2014 08:18
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I'm 5'9" and 160lbs, how do you think that would fit? I've been looking for a good apron for a while but often suffer choice paralysis.
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Jan 29, 2014 15:52
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Bad Munki posted:I'm 5'9" and 160lbs, how do you think that would fit? I've been looking for a good apron for a while but often suffer choice paralysis. it's pretty adjustable, I'd gopher it
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Jan 29, 2014 16:53
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rotor posted:it's pretty adjustable, I'd gopher it And if it's too long, it's not hard to trim the bottom.
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Jan 29, 2014 17:53
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I was more thinking about the wrap/straps than the length. Anyhow, I ordered it. 
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Jan 29, 2014 17:55
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I almost bought one until I read the straps were too short on a 6' 200p fellow. I'm 6'1 220p and I'm not sure it would fit. Let me know what you guys think.
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Jan 29, 2014 19:22
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Yeah, I saw that same review. In my case, that increased my confidence. So often these things are one-size-fits-all and that means "built for the Hulk."
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Jan 29, 2014 19:24
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the spyder posted:I almost bought one until I read the straps were too short on a 6' 200p fellow. I'm 6'1 220p and I'm not sure it would fit. Let me know what you guys think. I'm 6'4" and 200 and it's fine
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Jan 30, 2014 04:51
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I'm 5'11" 190 and it's perfect. I like it snug, so I have it fairly tight on the back.
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Jan 30, 2014 20:40
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It was my birthday last weekend and my fiancee got me an apron and a Veritas twin screw vice. I forgot to wear it tonight when I had a chance in the shop. I did pick out the wood for the jaws of the vice, I'm laminating two 4/4 pieces of cherry. I can't wait to put it together and use it. My next big project after the Morris chair is a Ruobo workbench hopefully something like this. 
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Jan 31, 2014 02:07
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Meow Meow Meow posted:It was my birthday last weekend and my fiancee got me an apron and a Veritas twin screw vice. I forgot to wear it tonight when I had a chance in the shop. I did pick out the wood for the jaws of the vice, I'm laminating two 4/4 pieces of cherry. I can't wait to put it together and use it. I'm literally sitting here with two books on workbenches at the moment trying to plan a new one myself and I'm thinking about something very similar to what's pictured. Although it seemed to me a vertical leg vice might be more versatile than this type. Any thoughts on that? Otherwise I love the idea of the two included vices, holes for hold-downs and sliding dead-man. Besides being time tested they also seem well suited to my small space. Although I want to avoid going crazy because I have real upcoming projects and actually need the bench. So I need to avoid turning the bench into the entire project itself.
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Feb 1, 2014 16:37
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This question is about wood, but a little different. Anyway, I have an ancient mandoline, basically one of these I've sharpened the blades back to normal but the wood underneath has deteriorated a little so that the blade doesn't sit squarely, plus I don't know how many more times I can unscrew and rescrew the blades for sharpening before the holes strip. What can I do to repair that?
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Feb 2, 2014 04:39
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You could drill the holes out, cut plugs to match the diameter of the holes, plug, tap. Drill out holes, fill with epoxy, tap. Make an entirely new base to mount the blades on out of figured unobtanium wood. I prefer the last.
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Feb 2, 2014 05:39
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asdf32 posted:I'm literally sitting here with two books on workbenches at the moment trying to plan a new one myself and I'm thinking about something very similar to what's pictured. Although it seemed to me a vertical leg vice might be more versatile than this type. Any thoughts on that? Otherwise I love the idea of the two included vices, holes for hold-downs and sliding dead-man. Besides being time tested they also seem well suited to my small space. Yesterday I finally finished flattening my bench that I started building a year or so ago. I've been using it since I first glued the top together, though. Even when it was sitting on saw horses, I used it to cut the legs and stretchers. I like the leg vise that I built, but I'm sure I would like the twin screw vise, too, if that's what I had. There's nothing saying that you can't switch from one to the other if you don't like it. The nicest thing about my bench is that it's a big, sturdy, massive top, and that helps with almost every operation I do. The hardware is just icing on the cake. Make sure you don't use through dovetails and tenons like Roubo's original plan, though. It was a major pain to cut them out in a 4" top, and I don't like how they look or feel on the front (or back) edge. When the top expands and contracts, they're either shy or proud of the surface, and they are a pain in the rear end to plane when you're flattening. If I were to make another one, I'd use stub tenons and pin them from the front, or use a trestle base. Also, get a holdfast before or shortly after you finish the top, and put some holes in for it right away. I still don't have one yet, and I think it would be as nice as two vises, if not better. I plan on making mine, because I'm a glutton for punishment, and because I've made everything else except for a section of acme rod and a nut for the tail vise. I would advise everyone else who has a bench to get one, too. They're just so convenient for so many tasks.
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Feb 2, 2014 06:29
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Today I took a class in segmented turning and the guy who taught the class really knows his craft. Some of his turnings have over 1,000 pieces and include bowls, vases, a globe, and a torus. You can see some of his work here: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1599 His shop is equally impressive and cleaner than some houses: mostly Grizzly tools with a smattering of other brands including a vintage Craftsman RAS and one of the large Powermatic lathes. And the most unusual dust collection system I've ever seen with 3 2HP dust collectors and 17 or 18 large Craftsman shop vacs, all underneath his shop with hoses and tubes coming up through the floor. Some machines have 2 or 3 hoses running to them. Teaser pic:
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Feb 2, 2014 07:48
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wormil posted:And the most unusual dust collection system I've ever seen with 3 2HP dust collectors and 17 or 18 large Craftsman shop vacs, all underneath his shop with hoses and tubes coming up through the floor. Some machines have 2 or 3 hoses running to them. Okay, at least now I know I'm not crazy. I've been brainstorming the shop I intend to build at my next house, and I've been tossing around the idea of a raised floor (a la a server room with removable panels for access to the crawlspace) with dust collection underneath instead of coming down from the ceiling like is so common. I love me some open air space and having ducts coming up from the floor seems ideal. If he doesn't mind, could you get some pics of his dust collection for us? This is something I have seriously been considering and I'd like to see how it's been approached by others. Also, I'm really curious about the glue-up for that first bowl. The others I can see how it's done, just a bit tedious, but I'm not so sure about the first.
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Feb 2, 2014 18:26
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Speaking of dust collection, I just recently purchased a "wireless tool remote". Basically a set of three plugs which can be wirelessly turned on/off by a little keychain remote. I put one of the plugs on my dust collector and duct-taped the remote to my noise earmuffs. I'm in love already! I have a small shop so it isn't a big deal to walk over to the dust collector to turn it on/off, but it is so much more convenient to just reach up to my head and push a button.
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Feb 2, 2014 18:51
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I have this whackadoo idea where in my ideal shop, I'll have the in-floor ducting, and the blast gates for each tool will be hooked up to a servo or actuator of some sort. When you turn the tool on, the actuator will activate and open that blast gate. They make devices for doing something similar, it's like a power strip that activates its other plugs when the device connected to the master plug goes hot, and then you just leave your shop vac plugged into it, so basically that but instead of turning on a shop vac, I'd have my uber dust collection going the whole tie and just pop the blast gate open.
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Feb 2, 2014 18:58
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, at least now I know I'm not crazy. I've been brainstorming the shop I intend to build at my next house, and I've been tossing around the idea of a raised floor (a la a server room with removable panels for access to the crawlspace) with dust collection underneath instead of coming down from the ceiling like is so common. I love me some open air space and having ducts coming up from the floor seems ideal. If he doesn't mind, could you get some pics of his dust collection for us? This is something I have seriously been considering and I'd like to see how it's been approached by others. That's what I've been dreaming of. I'm building my shop this spring and it's going to have a concrete floor because I need it to technically be a garage to count as a required on site parking space. But I was thinking of putting down 2x5 sleepers with a plywood floor. I could run the dust collection thought the sleepers (since they're totally supported by the concrete, it won't really matter how many cuts I have to make) and be able to take up the plywood panels (I think I'd do 4x4 panels rotating the grain so it looks like a big checkerboard) as needed. Plus, standing on wood is so much nicer than concrete.
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Feb 2, 2014 19:07
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That's basically what I'm thinking. Although I might recommend going bigger (taller) than 2x5, maybe more like 8" tall. Your smallest duct would be at least 4", that doesn't leave you with a lot of buffer. And for a main supply duct, you're looking at more like 8". Definitely the right answer on the 4x4 panels, though, much easier to manage than a full sheet. And agree re: standing on wood. Aside from being a little softer, if your slab gets cold the floor won't sap the heat through your feet. That's a definite problem in my shop right now: I can warm the air up to room temp in about half an hour, but that slab stays cold for DAYS. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Feb 2, 2014 |
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Feb 2, 2014 19:10
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A potential downside to under-floor ductwork is maintenance will be a PITA. If you get a clog or need to fix some of the duct work, you'll have to tear up part of the floor (and/or move heavy machinery out of the way).
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Feb 2, 2014 22:53
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Talking about in-floor dust collection ducting, if you're building new, casting the pipes into the floor might work, a la Frank Howarth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge96Qvp-EzE
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Feb 2, 2014 23:09
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polyfractal posted:A potential downside to under-floor ductwork is maintenance will be a PITA. If you get a clog or need to fix some of the duct work, you'll have to tear up part of the floor (and/or move heavy machinery out of the way). That's why you leave the floor in removable panels. It's pretty standard for server rooms, the floor is designed specifically to ALLOW easy access, not deny it. And besides, if you get a clog and can't access it for some reason (like the above shop with cast in ducts) you just treat it like any other plumbing problem and run a snake down the line.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:24
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thespaceinvader posted:Talking about in-floor dust collection ducting, if you're building new, casting the pipes into the floor might work, a la Frank Howarth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge96Qvp-EzE I like the part where they had to move some of the tools inside, like a bandsaw in the living room. That seems really convenient! 
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Feb 3, 2014 00:33
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I'm just super jealous of the sheer space, I've an 8 or 10 foot (I've not actually measured) square shed which is as secure as the screws holding the hinges on from the outside, so I can't really fit or safely store big valuable tools. Casting the pipes into the concrete is probably super impractical actually unless they're just plain straight runs, for the clog factor, and I did think that watching through the first time. I wonder how long it's going to be before he has to take a jackhammer to his floor...
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Feb 3, 2014 01:02
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Seems like it wouldn't be too hard to put in an access port at the junctions, and for anything else, snake it out. Still, I think a crawlspace would be optimal.
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Feb 3, 2014 01:37
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Bad Munki posted:I like the part where they had to move some of the tools inside, like a bandsaw in the living room. That seems really convenient! That's basically where my bandsaw is now. I cannot wait until my shop is built and I don't have to roll things out onto the patio.  Bad Munki posted:That's basically what I'm thinking. Although I might recommend going bigger (taller) than 2x5, maybe more like 8" tall. Your smallest duct would be at least 4", that doesn't leave you with a lot of buffer. And for a main supply duct, you're looking at more like 8". I'll work out the details later, the floor will be phase 2 after I everything built. But I'll have room, I'm doing 10' walls.
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Feb 3, 2014 03:32
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Hahaha, I love it. My wife was getting tired of the planer I had in the living room. I can't imaging a dust collector and bandsaw though. As someone who is 80% done building their own shop, the last 20% is the hardest- mainly because I just want to move in!
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Feb 3, 2014 03:47
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, at least now I know I'm not crazy. I've been brainstorming the shop I intend to build at my next house, and I've been tossing around the idea of a raised floor (a la a server room with removable panels for access to the crawlspace) with dust collection underneath instead of coming down from the ceiling like is so common. I love me some open air space and having ducts coming up from the floor seems ideal. If he doesn't mind, could you get some pics of his dust collection for us? This is something I have seriously been considering and I'd like to see how it's been approached by others. I'm sure that won't be a problem, I plan on going back to take a 2nd look at his tablesaw DC. He has an overarm guard/dc made from plexi and 4" PVC with 360° rotation and a bearing that provides a detent directly over the blade. Basically the exact thing I'm planning except I never thought of the detent. He has 18 of these Craftsman shop vacs, 17 below the shop and 1 for mobile use in the shop. He's been buying the same model for years. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-16-gal-wet-dry-vac-6.0-peak/p-00917761000P 3 of these, bought all 3 used for $300 total: http://woodworker.com/2hp-dust-collector-mssu-961-332.asp All are hardwired to a machine so when he turns it on the DC comes on. He has 2 dust chutes, front and behind, on his lathe. He did some sanding then held up his glasses to show there was no dust on the lenses. To say he is obsessive about a clean shop is an understatement. Bad Munki posted:Also, I'm really curious about the glue-up for that first bowl. The others I can see how it's done, just a bit tedious, but I'm not so sure about the first. I can't be sure without asking but he makes his turnings in two pieces, top and bottom, each secured in a chuck. Then attaches one to the headstock, the other to the tailstock and turns them together (unglued), then removes them and glues them off the lathe. It sounds wacky but he showed us and watching him do it made perfect sense.
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Feb 3, 2014 04:18
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Recommendations for chisels? I realized today I only have a old, incomplete set of the Stanley yellow plastic handled chisels that my dad left with me before they moved. *Edit- I impulse bought these: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-401-Bailey-Chisel-5-Piece/dp/B003HGH3W2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391404966&sr=8-2&keywords=chisel+set after remembering someone on here recommended them months back. the spyder fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Feb 3, 2014 |
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Feb 3, 2014 06:22
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asdf32 posted:I'm literally sitting here with two books on workbenches at the moment trying to plan a new one myself and I'm thinking about something very similar to what's pictured. Although it seemed to me a vertical leg vice might be more versatile than this type. Any thoughts on that? Otherwise I love the idea of the two included vices, holes for hold-downs and sliding dead-man. Besides being time tested they also seem well suited to my small space. I guess since we're talking about workbenches / shop makeovers I'll share the split top roubo (using the description loosely) I just built. It was my first Serious Business woodworking project.  The entire bench is built out of construction-grade douglas fir 2x6s and 4x6s (for the legs) and two whitewood 1x6. The vise is a Jorgenson and there's also a Veritas inset vise. I haven't built a tool tray or a bottom shelf yet, but this is my working bench now. I'm pretty pleased with it, used mostly hand planes and chisels to get it done. I router-planed the top portion and there's some pocket screw + glue joinery on the lower half, mostly because I appear to fail at mortising.
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Feb 4, 2014 07:44
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squelch posted:I guess since we're talking about workbenches / shop makeovers I'll share the split top roubo (using the description loosely) I just built. It was my first Serious Business woodworking project. Looks amazing! Going to suck if you ever move though.  :
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Feb 4, 2014 13:38
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What is the advantage of a split top vs a traditional with hold downs?
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Feb 4, 2014 17:42
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squelch posted:I guess since we're talking about workbenches / shop makeovers I'll share the split top roubo (using the description loosely) I just built. It was my first Serious Business woodworking project. Very nice!
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Feb 4, 2014 19:38
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wormil posted:What is the advantage of a split top vs a traditional with hold downs? In my extremely limited experience I have already found the ability to use regular clamps in the middle of the bench immensely useful. When I build my tool tray, I can make it "reversible," with a flush bottom that makes the entire bench top a usable flat surface and flip it around to act as a planing stop. Others I've read like to set this up as a knockdown bench, so the two halves of the top can be transported separately. I didn't opt for this, so the leg joinery is glued and screwed in place to minimize movement. I think the split top adds modularity, which appeals to me. Edit: I took a bunch of pics at various stages of construction, I'll share later
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Feb 4, 2014 19:41
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On the topic of in-floor dust collection, I used to apprentice at Jeff Miller's shop which is in an old bowling alley. It sucked to get through the lanes but you could drill through the floor and run all the DC and power through the subfloor which owned because he had huge windows on the roof to let in natural light that were unobstructed.
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Feb 4, 2014 23:22
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Yeah, that's exactly what I want: power, dust collection, compressed air, and any other shop utilities I might want, all in the crawlspace.
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Feb 4, 2014 23:29
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Yeah it was a crawlspace, but that also sucked for various reasons. The other way to do this is to have a shop on the second floor and run everything under the second floor but be able to access it from the first on ladders. I did that at another shop I worked at. More room to work (and you can stand) but you have to be up high to work on it. Electrical and duct work I found was way easier to work on when you had light and didn't have to crawl. The #1 thing to think about though is duct lengths and maximizing duct diameter. Keep everything as short as possible and have your most dust-generating tools on the shortest main runs, its even better to be able to shut off ducts to everything but those tools when you're using them. One of my favorite woodworking projects had no woodworking but was designing a DC system on a serious budget, which was super fun. More duct stuff: use rigid stuff, never use flex hoses
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Feb 4, 2014 23:37
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Okay, then, if we're doing dream shops: full basement with open joists in the basement. 10'x5' dumb-waiter style elevator. Basement is for lumber storage.
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Feb 4, 2014 23:43
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I grabbed a jet dc 650 off of Craigslist yesterday. Not the biggest dust collector but will fit my needs and is a much needed addition to the shop. I think I'm going to build a thein baffle for it. I plan on having a straight run about 10-15 feet long with several wyes to hook stuff into, and then one long flex line to hook up to portable machines.
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Feb 5, 2014 00:47
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