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Cornuto posted:I removed wallpaper in a recently purchased house and am now left with walls that look like this: Go around all the edges and pop off loose paint you can. If you keep scraping and scraping and you never seem to find any paint that still sticks, keep scraping it off anyway. The only thing that loose paint can do now from now on is cause problems. Next, use drywall mud over all the edges that you can. Once it's dry, sand it flat. You can try matching the existing plaster texture with some spray on orange peel, but that is hard as hell.
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Jan 29, 2014 05:10
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I am having an issue with my furnace where the water pressure drops below 10psi. It's easy to just add some water to the system, but if it runs for a really long time, or I nudge up the target temperature a bit, the pressure in the system reaches 30psi and it dumps some water through the relief valve. When it cools down overnight then, the pressure drops below 10psi again and it refuses to turn on. As far as I can gather, this thing was installed by the previous home owner and I don't have any reason to believe that he knew what he was doing. I am guessing that this has something to do with the expansion tank, which sticks horizontally (unsupported) off of a vertical bit of pipe and has sagged to the point that it could probably tear out under its own weight. If that were installed very poorly (which it is) or not sized properly, could that result in this problem? Assuming the answer is yes, how do I determine what expansion tank is appropriate to use?
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Jan 29, 2014 13:06
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First off, the expansion tank can support its own weight only if its installed hanging from the pipe, that needs to be fixed. Expansion tank size depends on the total volume of water in the system, maximum pressure, and temperature set points. You also need to set the pressure based on that, they generally come set to 12psi but can be adjusted. You can calculate your size here http://www.amtrol.com/support/extrol_com_sizing.html
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Jan 29, 2014 14:21
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Thanks, is there any straightforward way to determine the total amount of water in the system? Somehow I imagine that would require that I drain it or fill it...
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Jan 29, 2014 14:23
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Goons, help me fix my furnace! It's loving cold here in Buffalo. I have 2 zone radiant heat (downstairs and upstairs) in my house, but the upstairs just isn't working. Like, at all. What happens is the furnace splits of into two pipes, one for downstairs and one for upstairs. The downstairs pipe is fine and had decent circulation. The upstairs pipe has no water moving through it at all. The pursue gauge reads 0, so I'm not sure if it's a pressure issue or if the gauge is broken. Things I've tried: Checked all the valves to make sure they were open, including the automatic valves for the dual zone. Bled the upstairs line to make sure there wasn't air in the pipes (only one bleeder valve and it's in the first room in the loop - not very helpful. Closed off the downstairs loop to try to force water through - no luck. http://imgur.com/36ksWOD http://imgur.com/eq0G7xb http://imgur.com/PWc3e7h http://imgur.com/txj05FQ Edit: I also tried draining some water out of the boiler, and could hear it refill with fresh water, so that's working. I'm at my wits end with this thing. KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 14:39
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I have a few halogen fixtures that I'm thinking of replacing with an LED equivalent. Currently they're the Sylvania MR50s (60 degree spread, two little tines to connect to the power socket). Can anyone recommend a decent LED? The reviews on most of what I find on Amazon are pretty much "died after 2 months, will not purchase again". They're being used as accent lights in a school, so they're essentially on 24/7. I'd like something that will go more than 4 months without crapping the bed.
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Jan 29, 2014 22:13
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Update: Scraped, Sanded, Hit it with sheet rock repair mud, Sanded again. Room is dusty as hell, but I think it looks a lot better:      Am I good to paint (Valspar signature), or do I have to prime it with this gallon of oil-based stuff the folks at ACE recommended? I'm in Ohio and its cold as poo poo. I understand the primer to be smelly as gently caress and venting the room in this weather is going to be a pain in the rear end. Thanks to everyone for the advice so far. Cornuto fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jan 30, 2014 |
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Jan 30, 2014 01:33
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I've been nothing but totally happy with the performance of Kilzs primer. The ventilation issue kind of sucks, but IMO, if you've come this far, do the primer.
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Jan 30, 2014 01:52
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I always put down killz latex primer before a paint job. Not sure why you would need an oil base.
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Jan 30, 2014 01:53
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spwrozek posted:I always put down killz latex primer before a paint job. Not sure why you would need an oil base. Older guy at the paint counter said the oil based would seal it after repairs (not sure against what?), while the latex would not. Seemed like he knew what he was talking about, so I grabbed a gallon based on his advice.
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Jan 30, 2014 02:04
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Sounds good I guess. I really have no idea. Just have always used latex based.
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Jan 30, 2014 02:21
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I've used both. The oil based is definitely a little better (covers stains better, seals better, goes on a little thicker), but it makes for stinkier fumes. Dries a little slower, too.
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Jan 30, 2014 03:08
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I use it when I see nicotine stains, otherwise I just the latex stuff.
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Jan 30, 2014 06:51
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I need to do a sink cutout for an undermount sink in 1-1/2" thick butcher block. Any reason not to copy the template into autocad use the CNC Router at the local DIY shop?
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Jan 30, 2014 19:25
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I need to do a sink cutout for an undermount sink in 1-1/2" thick butcher block. I can't think of one. Let me know how it goes because I had the exact same thought for later this year.
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Jan 31, 2014 01:39
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FilthyImp posted:I have a few halogen fixtures that I'm thinking of replacing with an LED equivalent. Currently they're the Sylvania MR50s (60 degree spread, two little tines to connect to the power socket). I replaced my halogens in track lighting (GU10) with some mini spots from feit, and I've been very happy. Been running for 3 years now. Pretty much anything from them or philips and you can't go wrong with LED bulbs.
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Jan 31, 2014 17:14
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mr.belowaverage posted:Your garage sounds sick, and I look forward to a thread with lots of pictures. Created a thread to garner opinions and suggestions on my upcoming DIY for the garage.  http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3606049
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Jan 31, 2014 20:54
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We have a pedestal sink with a leaky drain in our bathroom that looks like this: I know how to fix the drain in theory, but I've never tried to work on a sink that didn't have a vanity/cabinet underneath it. My problem is that there is no room to work on the pipes under that sink with it mounted against the wall (the trap is within a cutout in the porcelain, and as it sits right now, is literally touching the porcelain, so I don't know how I'm supposed to get it off), and that I can't get under the base to check for mold or other water damage. Am I supposed to disconnect the drain line on that straight pipe to the wall, disconnect the supply lines, and then unmount the sink and move it to work on it? It's mounted to the wall with two bolts and it's sort of hooked over a metal bracket as well to keep it from moving. Are those all of the mounting points or is there some bolt to the floor likely hidden somewhere?
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Feb 1, 2014 00:53
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I had to replace the condenser fan in my Frigidaire double door refrigerator, on the freezer side. It wasn't cooling right since the fan wouldn't spin and varied in temperature from 10 degrees to 40 degrees on the freezer side. Now that I replaced the fan, it's at a steady 0 degrees and everything seems fine. My question is this: Will the condenser fan handle this frost build up in the pictures below?   If not, should I have let it thaw more when I worked on it, even though it was off for an hour with the door open? What's the best solution to get rid of the ice build up if I still need to? Let it sit unplugged again? Hair dryer? Something else?
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Feb 1, 2014 02:07
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I have a rotting wall I'm trying to fix/modify. What I NEED to do is replace the rotting wood, and what I'd LIKE to do is remove the doorway, since it's likely to end up outside of the fence, once I remove the lovely deck and the broken fence bits - though maybe not as I may end up fencing in more of the yard rather than less, but the door is unused anyway. My line of thought is to remove the doors (they're individual doors, and not prehung or anything), pull the threshold plate, and figure out how big the base plate is - i think it'x 2x6 but i'm not 100%, remove it until I get past the rotting bits, yank off the external sheathing, and replace any rotten studs behind it with new ones, put in new insulation, replace the sheathing, put on new trim, paint. I'd put in new studs where the door was, and just sheathe over the outside, and drywall over the inside, and call it done. What am I missing/giant problems there are going to be/etc. Edit: this wall is in no way structural at all - I can yank bits and pieces out of it willy-nilly without it falling in on me or anything. It's where the garage door opening used to be, so if it was structurally stable BEFORE this wall, it's certainly not going to be an issue with me pulling out studs and poo poo to replace the base and then building it back in bit by bit. The only risk, i guess, is that pulling out a stud could screw up the drywall on the inside, but that's a minor problem, at best. My expectation is I'd need whatever the baseplate is, a stack of 2x4s, some 1x4 for trim, and like four sheets of 4x8 external sheathing and some paint, plus whatever fasteners I'd need to attach it to concrete (I assume it already is but this house has had nothing done properly at all) and various other screws and such. See attached photos:    Also: what preventative issues should I take to prevent this in the future, other than using pressure treated wood for the base plate? The primary issue is that the deck used to actually butt up against the house, and when it rained, you'd get that water dumped INTO the house instead of AWAY from the house as it was sloped poorly. I yanked a bunch of the deck near the house out, and since that's sitting in the garage, the ground slopes away from the house already. cstine fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Feb 1, 2014 |
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Feb 1, 2014 03:00
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MaximumBob posted:Am I supposed to disconnect the drain line on that straight pipe to the wall, disconnect the supply lines, and then unmount the sink and move it to work on it? Spend a little more time with it - I don't think you can disconnect the pipe at the wall. I think you have to get it apart where the trap is. And I think you have to do it before you can move the sink. Hopefully it is just a matter of getting your fingers or a tool in there at the right angle. Or maybe the pedestal is a separate piece that you could tease out of there without breaking anything? If so be sure you support the basin on some 2x4 or whatever.
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Feb 1, 2014 03:47
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I hope this is the right thread to ask this in...but what happened to GBS? I mostly read in different sub forums, but occasionally poke my head into GBS when I get bored, but a few months ago it seemed to have changed. I've tried searching, and I just can't figure out what happened. I keep poking my head back in there every few weeks, but it doesn't seem to have returned to normal yet. Any idea what happened? Edit: apparently I am in the wrong thread, so sorry I was thinking I was in the Ask/Tell quick questions thread forum not DIY one. Rathina fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 1, 2014 |
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Feb 1, 2014 06:11
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Squashy Nipples posted:I would just use screws, but there isn't any reason you can't use both. For screws, SHORT flathead (countersunk) screws with coarse threads. Be VERY careful not to over tighten or they will disintegrate the particleboard and pull right out. TooMuchAbstraction posted:You don't need to attach the L-brackets to the shelf, just to the wall that the pegs originally slotted into. It's not like screwing the L-bracket into the shelf increases its supportive power; it just keeps the shelf from shifting. But it sounds like that's not currently an issue. Tomarse posted:If it has dropped on the outside edge you could put 2 screws in in from the outside of the unit through into the edge of the shelf. Thanks for the tips. One question though - Can I put screws into particleboard without pre-drilled holes? I only have a screwdriver. Will I risk stripping if I don't use a power drill?
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Feb 1, 2014 06:15
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Hatter106 posted:Thanks for the tips. One question though - Can I put screws into particleboard without pre-drilled holes? I only have a screwdriver. Will I risk stripping if I don't use a power drill? Power drill is more likely to strip. Pre-drilling is really the difference. I've done it manually without pre-drilling and it's ok. You have to be strong, yet gentle. Use coarse threaded screws that aren't too fat, do it by hand, and don't over-drive them. Use the L-brackets instead of going into the shelf from the outside, because the L-brackets method will be a lot stronger and less liable to fuckups. Pre-drilling helps a lot though  BUT - I am thinking the best thing is to take the whole shelf apart and replace the pegs. That's if the pegs are broken but the shelf and vertical pieces are ok (which seems unlikely, actually). If the shelves are damaged, you'd really better use the L brackets. Or replace the shelves.
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Feb 1, 2014 07:37
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MaximumBob posted:We have a pedestal sink with a leaky drain in our bathroom that looks like this: The "pedestal" section on a lot of pedestal sinks is designed to come away from the sink. Is yours?
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Feb 1, 2014 18:27
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Are sill pans always necessary under patio sliding doors? I'm installing a used vinyl model with no manufacturer identification. The bottom track does not appear to have any openings, not even weep holes on the exterior side; there doesn't appear to be any way for water to seep from the bottom track down to the subfloor, and there's a nailing flange around all 4 sides. I've been looking at friend's patio doors, and I'd say about 50% of them have sill pans. I don't mind installing a sill pan, but I just don't see the benefit here. Either way, I'd seal the rough opening with a flashing material membrane before installation. Thanks.
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Feb 1, 2014 19:51
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kid sinister posted:The "pedestal" section on a lot of pedestal sinks is designed to come away from the sink. Is yours? As it turns out, since we took it apart today, yes - I could have slid the pedestal out from under there if necessary with my wife lifting up the sink - the weight of the sink, and the presence of the drain pipe, are the only things that keep the pedestal from moving. But it didn't end up being necessary. Once I loosened all the couplings and then removed the sink flange, I had enough wiggle room that I was able to coax everything apart, and there didn't turn out to be any mold under the base of the pedestal to deal with.
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Feb 2, 2014 00:33
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Today I was doing some cleaning and noticed that the wood floor near the fridge had a bit of a warp to it. gently caress. So I pulled the fridge out and looked around and it turns out the drip tray has a crack in it. The model is a whirlpool WRT3L9SZYW00. However, it doesn't want to pull out. Doing some googling, it looks like newer models (this one is less than 5 years old) don't allow to take the drip tray out, and some of them need to have items removed in order to do so. It's a very small crack, but enough that water got out of it. I put some duct tape on it right now, but is there some kind of epoxy or jb weld thing that would work on plastics and basically fill the crack? As for the wood floor-I don't have a clue. Doesn't help out the fact that I'm renting and I'm sure the landlord is going to try and take my whole security deposit for this. gently caress my life.
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Feb 2, 2014 21:21
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nwin posted:Today I was doing some cleaning and noticed that the wood floor near the fridge had a bit of a warp to it. gently caress. So I pulled the fridge out and looked around and it turns out the drip tray has a crack in it. The model is a whirlpool WRT3L9SZYW00. However, it doesn't want to pull out. Doing some googling, it looks like newer models (this one is less than 5 years old) don't allow to take the drip tray out, and some of them need to have items removed in order to do so. It's a very small crack, but enough that water got out of it. I put some duct tape on it right now, but is there some kind of epoxy or jb weld thing that would work on plastics and basically fill the crack? Is the fridge yours or the landlord's?
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Feb 2, 2014 21:29
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pseudonordic posted:Is the fridge yours or the landlord's? Mine-bought brand new because the landlord wouldn't furnish one.
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Feb 2, 2014 21:38
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I have an Olympic weight set and weightlifting bench that honestly need to get sold on. When I got them I found the prospect of doing bench press without a spotter somewhat disturbing, so I built a safety frame around the bench:  For liability reasons I probably shouldn't try to include the frame when I sell the thing, but that leaves me with a bunch of 2x6s and 4x4s that have holes through them for the 3/8" bolts I used to hold everything together. What all do I do with this stuff? Is it okay to burn? It's not pressure-treated, just standard construction fir bought from Home Depot. (Also, I swear I used more than 20 pounds of weight while lifting...those're from when the housemate was using the thing. Shut up.)
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Feb 2, 2014 22:04
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Why not toss it in for free if the person who buys the rest wants it? More useful than burning it and I don't see the liability concern.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:29
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eddiewalker posted:Why not toss it in for free if the person who buys the rest wants it? More useful than burning it and I don't see the liability concern. The liability concern is that they assemble it wrong (or it legit fails, though I think I overengineered it), their chest gets crushed by a 150-pound barbell, and then they sue my rear end off for selling faulty product.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The liability concern is that they assemble it wrong (or it legit fails, though I think I overengineered it), their chest gets crushed by a 150-pound barbell, and then they sue my rear end off for selling faulty product. Its okay to burn, but build something else with it instead.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:40
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Turn it upside down, you've got the beginnings of a nice kitchen island right there.
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Feb 3, 2014 01:17
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nwin posted:Today I was doing some cleaning and noticed that the wood floor near the fridge had a bit of a warp to it. gently caress. So I pulled the fridge out and looked around and it turns out the drip tray has a crack in it. The model is a whirlpool WRT3L9SZYW00. However, it doesn't want to pull out. Doing some googling, it looks like newer models (this one is less than 5 years old) don't allow to take the drip tray out, and some of them need to have items removed in order to do so. It's a very small crack, but enough that water got out of it. I put some duct tape on it right now, but is there some kind of epoxy or jb weld thing that would work on plastics and basically fill the crack? JB weld has some underwater epoxy that will set when weet
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Feb 3, 2014 04:47
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ShadowStalker posted:JB weld has some underwater epoxy that will set when weet I love it when I haven't even asked a question and come to this thread and find the answer I would have needed anyway. Alternative question: I have noticed a crack forming in my butcher block countertop, the countertop was made and installed by the previous homeowners (company that buys, renovates, and flips) approximately 26-40 months ago. I don't know if the wood is drying out in the winter or what but here is the crack:  How should I fix this or mitigate it getting worse? The countertop is ~38" wide. Currently my only thought is thinned out wood glue and a mega huge clamp (that I would have to purchase).
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Feb 3, 2014 05:07
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You can fill it with wood filler then reseal it. I've done a repair with wood glue and saw dust from the underside of the block. What you're thinking will probably look the best in the end- Look for pipe clamps- they are pretty cheap comparatively. Make sure the block is properly sealed lest this happen again.
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Feb 3, 2014 05:13
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TheBigBad posted:You can fill it with wood filler then reseal it. I've done a repair with wood glue and saw dust from the underside of the block. Thanks. I will try and get in touch with the sellers and ask them what they have done to it and what they recommend for maintenance. My wife bought this house and I think they just told her to put butcher block oil on it. Might not have been doing that enough truth be told.
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Feb 3, 2014 05:28
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Totally TWISTED posted:Thanks. I will try and get in touch with the sellers and ask them what they have done to it and what they recommend for maintenance. My wife bought this house and I think they just told her to put butcher block oil on it. Might not have been doing that enough truth be told. Food grade mineral oil. Apply every day for a week. Then once a month. Same technique I use with my wood cutting board.
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Feb 3, 2014 05:36
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