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lazerwolf posted:She's weird because I can also get her to lay down and tell her to stay while I roll the ball past her, she won't break eye contact with the ball but she won't go get it until I tell her "okay go get it". What steps can I do to get her to ignore the object? Teach 'watch me' with food, then see if she'll do it for the ball. Then make part of the game with the ball involve her giving you eye contact before you release her to go get it - which you can do during every play session.
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Jan 28, 2014 08:53
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cheese eats mouse posted:This doesn't answer your question, but have you looked into Flyball? I think a dog that ball focused would LOVE it. Funnily enough, flyball is more about the tug than the ball. It can actually be really challenging to work with a ball obsessed dog. It's hella fun, especially for the dog, so if it's something that interests you definitely look into it, ball obsession or no. lazerwolf posted:Not sure if I should ask this here or the training thread but here it goes. I'm not sure exactly how to phrase this but our pup is very fixated on her toys when we play. She's a little over 8 months old and she knows sit, stay (to an extent), drop it and leave it, she can give both paws on command and she's learning down. She is very good with fetch. She goes absolutely crazy over tennis balls. However, I must be holding the ball in my hand to get her to listen to any command I'm giving her. For instance, if I have the ball in hand and I ask her to sit and give paw and then lay down and give other paw, she will follow my every command. However, if I leave the ball on the floor at my feet and ask her to sit, she won't break eye contact with the ball and will just attempt to grab it. She's weird because I can also get her to lay down and tell her to stay while I roll the ball past her, she won't break eye contact with the ball but she won't go get it until I tell her "okay go get it". What steps can I do to get her to ignore the object? In addition to E Lenk's advice, you can do variations of Its Yer Choice with toys. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipT5k1gaXhc Basically right now the ball is a bribe, not a reward. There's a thin line between bribes and rewards, and basically the reward has to come after the behaviour. If you need to present it prior, then it's a bribe. Start weaning off the bribery. Also try expanding into other types of reinforcement, like food and tug. Having a dog who works for toys is awesome, but it's better still to have a dog who'll work for everything.
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Jan 28, 2014 13:14
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a life less posted:Funnily enough, flyball is more about the tug than the ball. It can actually be really challenging to work with a ball obsessed dog. It's hella fun, especially for the dog, so if it's something that interests you definitely look into it, ball obsession or no. I should clarify two points I didn't word well. She loves the ball, food and tug immensely. Also along the lines of bribery vs rewarding, she does follow my commands even if I have no immediate reward present. The example I wrote earlier was a specific situation using the ball game we play. She will fetch and drop the ball at my feet when we play however if I don't pick the ball up, she will grab the ball again even if I'm giving her the sit and/or stay command. I guess I should have said what steps can I start for better impulse control using a high quality reward like the ball. I'll keep working on making sure I'm not slipping into the habit of bribing her instead of rewarding also.
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Jan 28, 2014 14:45
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Weird question, Does anyone know of a cat repellent that doesn't affect dogs? I only ask because we're fostering a cat for a few months and he has a tendency of going into the dogs crate. Yesterday I found cat turd in there. I want to make sure our dog isn't put off from her crate so I want to keep that cat out of there. Any thoughts?
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Jan 28, 2014 17:20
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Cat turds will only make the crate more desirable! Maybe put high value treats in there and see if she can figure out how to open the closed-but-not-locked door herself so you won't have to leave it open in the future?
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Jan 28, 2014 18:57
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lazerwolf posted:I should clarify two points I didn't word well. She loves the ball, food and tug immensely. Get two identical balls, and step back to teaching 'drop it' again. When she drops it, release her immediately and throw the new ball from your hands. She should get to the point where she's spitting the ball out and staring up at the new ball, then you can work on duration and eventually add in your motion bending down and picking up the old ball before you throw one. This should mix it up enough that she thinks you have a better option.
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Jan 28, 2014 19:17
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My dog likes to chase after doves in the park; she has never caught any, but if it manages to get one, what should I do? Also, ocassionally, there are dead doves in the park (park cleaning is not a priority in my city) and my dog tries to go near them, I never let her, but I'd like to know if there's a way of keeping her away from them.
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Feb 1, 2014 05:27
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What kind of dog? If it catches one, the dog will probably shake it violently and it'll be dead pretty quick.
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Feb 1, 2014 05:55
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Ikantski posted:What kind of dog? If it catches one, the dog will probably shake it violently and it'll be dead pretty quick. A beagle
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Feb 1, 2014 14:18
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So my wife brought home a stray on Thursday. The dog looks to be about 8 weeks, very much a mutt. Took him to the vet, had him checked out, no shots just yet. This dog is super calm. Doesn't bark, reacted with chill indifference to our cat, doesn't squirm or whimper, doesn't run around in maniacal circles unless you're actually playing with him, doesn't chew everything in sight. The only problem I've been having with him is sort of two fold. The dog reacted very negatively to the leash, very much looked like a whimpering panic attack. This makes it harder for me to get him out for potty. He only poops and pees indoors so far; he actually ran inside after being scared of the wind to dump in the middle of the floor. Luckily at four pounds he's not awful to clean up after, but I want to squelch this behavior immediately and am completely unsure how. This dog was a bit of a surprise, abeit one we were somewhat prepared for. squelch fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 1, 2014 |
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Feb 1, 2014 18:27
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Hey I have a question. My 12 week old shiba Aiko spends all day with either me or my boyfriend, because she can come to work with me. Lately she's started whining if she's left alone in the bedroom (say if I'm going to the kitchen to get a beer). We leave her in the bedroom because we're 99% sure she won't have an accident in there, and its only ever super briefly, less than 5 minutes. We've left her with her favorite things (stuffed kong, bully stick, etc), but she isn't interested and just sits on the corner of the bed staring at the door whining. We've made sure not to make a big deal about coming and going, and lately have started ignoring her when one of us is returning from a long absence until she calms down. We wait for about 10 seconds of silence before going back into the bedroom (and half the time I leave the door open so she can at least see out into the rest of the apartment). We're working on crate training but it isn't going amazingly well, but we're working on it(she sleeps on the bed with us, but we do want her crate trained too) I'm not really sure what to do about this? Any help is appreciated. It doesn't seem like separation anxiety, but I do want to nip it in the bud.
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Feb 8, 2014 17:04
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Mobile error double post, sorry guys
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Feb 8, 2014 17:10
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Psychobabble! posted:We've made sure not to make a big deal about coming and going, and lately have started ignoring her when one of us is returning from a long absence until she calms down. I don't have much input on the rest of your post since to me it seems like you've got the right idea. But from what I've read recently, the "ignore your dog when you get home" school of thought is on the way out. A calm, low-key greeting helps to reduce anxiety. I've certainly found this with my dog. Gary used to bark at the gate when I came home, so I'd leave him outside until he stopped barking. He used to get more and more frantic each time I came home, spinning in circles and barking and snapping at the other dogs if there was one there, (we had fosters sometimes). I started letting him out of the gate when I got home and saying hi, then walking to the front door. He'd stop barking and just greet me then trot happily inside and settle down. So yeah, I think that a low-key greeting when you get home is the ticket. Say hi, then pop her away if you need to take care of some things before you can really pay her attention. I would start practicing some separation training exercises so that she gets used to being calm by herself. Check out this article by Karen Pryor for example.
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Feb 9, 2014 15:12
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New puppy owner here, adopted from a friend of a friend. Just got her looked at by a vet. I was told she was 2 months old, but the vet thinks she's 6 weeks old. 1lb 5oz. Vet won't vaccinate her until she's gained a pound. The OP says that puppies can meet other dogs as long as they're vaccinated, but is this on the condition that my puppy is already vaccinated as well?
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Feb 12, 2014 00:20
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Long as the other dog is vaccinated and you're indoors (read: parvo-free area) she should be fine, and really getting her some socialization now is key.
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Feb 12, 2014 02:19
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Steve Yun posted:New puppy owner here, adopted from a friend of a friend. I would not take your puppy out to socialize without your puppy having been vaccinated as well. Once you start the puppy vaccine course you can and should take the puppy to meet other puppies of the same age that are similarly vaccinated and adult dogs that you trust and that are healthy and vaccinated as well. I wouldn't go to dog parks or pet stores or anything but play dates at people's houses are fine.
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Feb 14, 2014 02:21
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Okay so dog owners coming over to see the puppy should be fine too?
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Feb 14, 2014 05:02
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Long as they're vaccinated then yeah, that's the ideal. And don't forget the camera -- nothing in the world beats puppy play time 
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Feb 14, 2014 05:10
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My puppy chose the biggest pile of snow in the yard to lie on top of and chew her stick, even though every time she lets go it slides to the bottom. Also she attacks her own footprints like they're burrows. Edit: Now she's rushing around excitedly coz she just found out snow is diggable. I imagine to her this moment is like buying that shovel for the first time in Link's Awakening. circ dick soleil fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 21:35
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Can anyone here give me advice with training with distractions? I have an 18 week old Cairn terrier pup who is an absolute joy, and progressing really well in his training. He walks well on a loose leash (most of the time), heels and stays on his walks, and generally has the most wonderful time out and about. However, like most pups he can get a bit excited when he sees other dogs or people, especially if they are doing something interesting like existing. At the moment I take very small treats with me to keep his attention on me if we come across other dogs - when we get close I do a sit-stay until the other dog passes or keep a close heel if they stop. I treat every few seconds he pays attention to me instead of anyone else, but I wonder if I am reinforcing the dog=treat idea or not. How did you all train attention on you when there are distractions around (bearing in mind he's a terrier, so "paying attention" is a relative thing...)?
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Feb 14, 2014 23:20
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Pulling Teeth posted:I wonder if I am reinforcing the dog=treat idea or not. It sounds like you're doing pretty well. Just do the pay attention to me routine when there aren't other dogs around, inside, outside, bunch of different contexts and gradually give less and less treats.
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Feb 14, 2014 23:29
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Pulling Teeth posted:Can anyone here give me advice with training with distractions? I have an 18 week old Cairn terrier pup who is an absolute joy, and progressing really well in his training. He walks well on a loose leash (most of the time), heels and stays on his walks, and generally has the most wonderful time out and about. Sounds like you're doing marvellously. Just keep in mind that on the distraction scale, other dogs etc are 9-10 level difficulty, especially for a puppy. You can start by teaching him to focus/work with you around low level distractions (start at level one with something really easy like an empty room) and then gradually add distractions in, like new smells, new locations, toys, food, people, outdoors. Try making a list of the least/most distracting things for your pup and start at the bottom and work your way up. You probably want to start working on an operant behaviour. As in, see dog -> pay attention -> get treat. As he grows you can start asking for more complex behaviours to earn a treat like fun obedience, tricks, longer eye contact, etc. At the point you're at now, it'll be great if he starts offering eye contact/attention without you having to ask. Eventually you can get it to a point where, even if he's off leash, if he sees another dog he'll turn and look at you to check in. It's great!
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Feb 14, 2014 23:36
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Lately (just a couple days) my poodle (1 year old, toy, 5-6lbs) has been lifting one of her hind legs up when she walks but only does it for a minute or so and then she's back to running around the house. I've checked all over her paw to see if there was something stuck in them and she doesn't yelp or anything whenever I've checked her leg. She never sounds like she's in pain or anything. I'm going to take her to the vet to get it checked out regardless but if there's anything else I should check I would appreciate it. Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Feb 16, 2014 |
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Feb 16, 2014 16:50
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This is my puppy doing puppy stuff. Some of you may have seen this video but I love it  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_Mrd9Oa25o
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Feb 16, 2014 17:33
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Orange_Lazarus posted:Lately (just a couple days) my poodle (1 year old, toy, 5-6lbs) has been lifting one of her hind legs up when she walks but only does it for a minute or so and then she's back to running around the house. I've checked all over her paw to see if there was something stuck in them and she doesn't yelp or anything whenever I've checked her leg. She never sounds like she's in pain or anything. Probably luxating patella. Googling will give you a wide range of reactions from "SURGERY NOW" to "It's fine." Rely on what your vet says mostly.
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Feb 16, 2014 17:38
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Orange_Lazarus posted:Lately (just a couple days) my poodle (1 year old, toy, 5-6lbs) has been lifting one of her hind legs up when she walks but only does it for a minute or so and then she's back to running around the house. I've checked all over her paw to see if there was something stuck in them and she doesn't yelp or anything whenever I've checked her leg. She never sounds like she's in pain or anything. + 1 vote for luxating patella. Talk to vet. Keep her weight down. Surgery is an option and can help, but it's not a fix-all and can cause further problems, so listen to your vet. Keep her active and well muscled for the rest of her life.
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Feb 17, 2014 15:17
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6-Ethyl Bearcat posted:Probably luxating patella. Googling will give you a wide range of reactions from "SURGERY NOW" to "It's fine." Rely on what your vet says mostly. We went to a pet-med mobile yesterday and everyone pretty much just went straight to "Luxating Patella" the second I started describing the problem. The vet on site told us that not many people performed the surgery in our area (he asked a local person if the local vet would do it and she told him no) but stated that he could do it at his location. Apparently it's something regular vets don't want to touch so they're pushing people to have specialists do the job. He said surgery was the best option because it could eventually turn into arthritis, I guess all dogs will eventually get arthritis but this could cause it to happen earlier in life? My wife went ahead and scheduled a day next week so we can get it taken care of. edit: Could stairs be a problem? My dogs love running up and down the things (carpeted) but we're moving to a single story pretty soon so it won't be a problem in the future either way.
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Feb 17, 2014 15:19
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Stairs could be a problem. I think the dogs are most concerned by slipping when they're dealing with patella issues. Carpets on landings and rugs around corners are probably appreciated. I've heard that patellas can slip and cause pain when a male dog lifts its leg to mark, but that's not really applicable here. Did the vet give you an idea of what grade the LP was? Take any x-rays? Don't rush into surgery. If your vet isn't too familiar with the procedure I'd travel to someone who was regardless of the distance. Consider getting a second opinion from a specialist.
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Feb 17, 2014 15:24
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The grade is pretty important when determining what to do afaik. The mildest cases may not require surgery, and the most extreme cases may not either since they pop in and out of place so freely that they don't cause the dog much or any pain. It's the 2/3 grade ones that cause the most problems because they can get caught out of place etc. It does increase the likelihood of arthritis, but if you decide not to go the surgical route, there are supplements and medications you can use to lessen or prevent arthritis.
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Feb 17, 2014 16:48
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If you got the dog from a breeder please inform as well. If they're a greedy rear end in a top hat they won't care, but a decent breeder should give a crap.
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Feb 17, 2014 16:52
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I called my wife at home (she's off this week and has time) and asked her to look for someone who could do an x-ray and give an opinion on the grade and whether or not we should see a specialist. The vet we went and saw wasn't local and was just traveling with the mobile vet unit that does shots/examinations and stuff. He asked around if the local vet would do the surgery and when we asked if he could he told us yeah but he lived 3 hours away, we didn't ask if he was a specialist or not but he seemed like a good guy. Still, I always go to goons just in case. Anyway, yeah, thanks for the advice on rugs and stuff. My wife wants hard-wood floors installed for the new place but we'll definitely get a bunch of rugs and stuff. Also, another problem but much smaller. Our other dog is a ninja and can actually jump over/climb up our dog gate. Any suggestions? I'm thinking bigger gate but I wouldn't be surprised if she climbed her way over that one too.
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Feb 17, 2014 18:41
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Sorry for bumping the thread but I have a small question, Is it OK for two small dogs to share a large crate or is it better for them to have individual crates?
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Feb 20, 2014 17:47
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Depends on the dogs. There aren't many dogs I would trust to be stuck in a crate together for hours. I would personally feel safer giving them each their own crate. Plus, part of the purpose of a crate is to keep them from going to the bathroom, so you have to have a crate small enough to prevent them from wanting to soil it. I dunno how small they are, but in a big enough crate they might just end up using a corner as the poop/pee area, which can obviously get messy, especially with two in there. This all of course depends on how well the dogs are housetrained and such.
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Feb 20, 2014 18:03
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For hanging out with the door open, if they both want to chill in a crate (and neither minds the company) then it's fine. For crating while unattended, get two.
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Feb 20, 2014 18:36
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Is there a preferred shampoo for puppies or are they all the same
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Feb 21, 2014 01:55
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I was told the Johnson and Johnson no tears baby shampoo is what should be used.
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Feb 21, 2014 03:15
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Quick question: I have a 3.5 month old shiba, and we're working on crate training to deal with budding SA issues. We've fed her her meals in her bowl in there in the past, but she eats so fast(and doesn't get very much, ~2 tbls per meal) it's gone instantly. We've tried stuffing a kong w/ kibble and PB, but she'll stop going after it once it gets a little farther into the kong because  . Basically I'm trying to find recommendations for a slower feeder that'll work okay in her crate. Would a kong wubba work? We were concerned she wouldn't have enough space to really utilize it. Mind you, her crate is sized to fit her as an adult and a couple weeks ago we took out the divider because we aren't worried about her soiling it(she's been holding it through the night since she was like 6.5 weeks old!), so she has a good deal of wiggle room. If not, suggestions for other feeders? I like the look of the maze ones, like this one: http://tinyurl.com/lxckpcz, but I can only seem to find them in large. Any help is greatly appreciated! Edit: here's a pic of her current crate set up. Laser doge for scale: 
Psychobabble! fucked around with this message at 10:37 on Feb 21, 2014 |
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Feb 21, 2014 08:59
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Psychobabble! posted:Quick question: I have a 3.5 month old shiba, and we're working on crate training to deal with budding SA issues. We've fed her her meals in her bowl in there in the past, but she eats so fast(and doesn't get very much, ~2 tbls per meal) it's gone instantly. We've tried stuffing a kong w/ kibble and PB, but she'll stop going after it once it gets a little farther into the kong because There are slow feeder bowls, and you could also try freezing her kibble into a kong (with PB or broth or something) or freeze some really stinky smelly wet food into the kong.
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Feb 21, 2014 15:39
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Even just drop a ball or another toy into the bowl. It'll slow the dog down.
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Feb 21, 2014 15:52
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Steve Yun posted:Is there a preferred shampoo for puppies or are they all the same Anything that's billed as 'for dogs' and isn't medicinal should be fine. If there's something stubborn in their coat you can use Dawn dish soap apparently.
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Feb 21, 2014 17:08
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