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Look, if you don't have at least three years worth of your urine stashed away in a closet somewhere, I honestly don't know what you've been doing with your time.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:08
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Bad Munki posted:Look, if you don't have at least three years worth of your urine stashed away in a closet somewhere, I honestly don't know what you've been doing with your time. I don't care what the landlord says, I consider it an investment.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:33
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I sure hope you guys are taking the piss, what the hell. I'm so sorry
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Feb 12, 2014 03:40
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I don't care what the landlord says, I consider it an investment. It's either jars of piss or bitcoin. v  ve: uhh, which thread am I in again? Hey guys, I still need to learn to weld or something.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:53
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Bad Munki posted:It's either jars of piss or bitcoin. v Take a night course at your local trade school. Seriously, it's the best. You can even write it off on your taxes in the Canadas. I don't think they accept payment with urea though.
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Feb 12, 2014 05:20
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Bad Munki posted:It's either jars of piss or bitcoin. v Learning to weld can lead to late nights dreaming about things you can do with a block of steel and desiring to be a perpetual student just for continued access to somebody else's equipment in lieu of buying your own. 
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Feb 12, 2014 06:00
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I can't really do a course on account of being primary caregiver for my kid (and soon to be kidS) and that my wife's schedule (ER doc in her residency) is all over the place, making it hard to schedule things in a routine fashion. It makes me want to just get a basic welder, do some reading/watching, and start loving around.
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Feb 12, 2014 17:42
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah, I mean, tool steel is hard but carbide is harder. If he'd run it slowly with the proper coolant he should have been able to do it without ruining any inserts at all. We have surface grinders like that at work... would have taken a long time to take that much material off though. If you think tool steel sucks to cut, you should try some 60 rockwell CPM 10V sometime. We had to drill a few holes in it recently (I can't remember why we drilled them rather than using wire EDM) and we killed something like 6 bits doing 30 holes. Cheapish bits, but still ridiculous.
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Feb 13, 2014 05:10
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:We have surface grinders like that at work... would have taken a long time to take that much material off though. Man, I'm making a stamping tool for a customer at work, need to wire like 45 different tiny rear end punches all out of CPM. That poo poo sucks to work with. Easier than carbide at least.
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Feb 13, 2014 12:14
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Sucks to work with, but it sure is great stuff. No other way we're gonna get 600,000 blows out of a tool running 60 tons at 1000 strokes per minute. Bruderer presses are serious business.
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Feb 13, 2014 23:26
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Sucks to work with, but it sure is great stuff. No other way we're gonna get 600,000 blows out of a tool running 60 tons at 1000 strokes per minute. Bruderer presses are serious business. So you're making a tool that's designed to last exactly ten hours once in production? I'm imagining a factory here with a scrap steel bin marked "expensive garbage" heaping full of worn tools.
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Feb 14, 2014 03:51
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About 600,000 blows between sharpenings. The actual tool life depends heavily on how much it's run. If it's run every day it might only last a month or so, but nothing runs every day because even an order of 10 million parts only takes a day or two to run usually.
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Feb 14, 2014 04:01
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:About 600,000 blows between sharpenings. The actual tool life depends heavily on how much it's run. If it's run every day it might only last a month or so, but nothing runs every day because even an order of 10 million parts only takes a day or two to run usually. This whole post is  as gently caress, but that bolded bit, just...  drat.Impressive.
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Feb 14, 2014 22:45
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Volume production baby. Our materials manager told me today that he's got 4.5 million pounds of steel on order at the moment. He said that's about 120 truckloads. To be fair that will probably see us through June, but that's about as much as went into three of these: In other more classic metal-worky news, I have a Buffalo Forge hand-crank blower that I got for cheap a few years back and have been meaning to restore. It works, but it's very stiff. I've tried to figure out how to get the gearbox open but can't, there don't appear to be any fasteners I can remove aside from the ones that hold together the fan shroud. If I get a chance this weekend I'll dig it out and take some photos. I'm curious if anyone here knows anything about these blowers and how to get them apart. Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Feb 15, 2014 |
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Feb 15, 2014 00:09
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I have a Buffalo Forge blower on my forge and I've never gotten mine open either. Mine was smooth since the day I got it, so I've just kept oiling it since it has those brass (bronze?) sleeve bearings. I tried heating a screw or two up with a torch, but it didn't budge and since it worked fine I decided to leave it alone.
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Feb 15, 2014 02:43
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I have several paper cutter knives, 24" x 4 1/2" x 1/2" thick that I saved from the dumpster. Out of curiosity, what would it take to cut the steel into smaller slices?
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Feb 15, 2014 07:29
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Torch or angle grinder. A good plasma cutter could swing 1/2" steel as well.
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Feb 15, 2014 07:39
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wormil posted:I have several paper cutter knives, 24" x 4 1/2" x 1/2" thick that I saved from the dumpster. Out of curiosity, what would it take to cut the steel into smaller slices? Just a good hacksaw or an angle grinder.
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Feb 15, 2014 11:19
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One of these: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-cable-Pc14ctsd-14-inch-Chop-Open/dp/B004X1PAU2 Not necessarily that model, but those things are ideal for that sort of work.
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Feb 15, 2014 15:41
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wormil posted:I have several paper cutter knives, 24" x 4 1/2" x 1/2" thick that I saved from the dumpster. Out of curiosity, what would it take to cut the steel into smaller slices? If you need it into really small pieces talk to Disgruntled Bovine he can get it into 600,000 pieces.
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Feb 15, 2014 16:06
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It would take a much larger press than what we have to stamp material like that. We don't run anything thicker than .130ish at the moment. I know you were joking, I just felt like being pedantic.
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Feb 15, 2014 17:11
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I'm pretty sure wormil has a bandsaw, can anyone recommend a good blade for metal?
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Feb 15, 2014 19:29
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I suspect the reality of cutting it into slices would be costly in blades and time but I can dream.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:19
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Wtf, dude, tie it to the end of a stick and wave it around. How is that not the first thing you thought of? e: be sure to wear a smattering of hockey gear
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Feb 15, 2014 20:21
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I have at least four different ways in my garage to cut that up. Off the top of my head, here are your options: -chop saw -portable band saw -nonportable band saw -hacksaw -cold chisel (probably will blunt your cold chisel) -hot chisel (heat it up first) -a really beefy metal-cutting shear -cutting torch (e.g., oxyacetylene, plasma, etc.) -waterjet -mill -just bang on it a lot with a sharp rock All of the above have varying degrees of effectiveness, wear to the cutting implement, and loss of material. So if you can be a lot more specific about what size pieces you want, how tolerant you are to bending the blade while you cut it, and most importantly what sort of tools you have handy, we can probably give better advice.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:29
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rotor posted:I'm pretty sure wormil has a bandsaw, can anyone recommend a good blade for metal? probably one made out of harder metal
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Feb 15, 2014 20:30
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You said you had several of them, right? Use one to cut the other. Highlander that poo poo.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:31
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Leperflesh posted:I have at least four different ways in my garage to cut that up. I'm thinking ~2" slices so final size would be 2" wide x 4.5" tall x .5" thick and I'd want to keep the temper to make it worthwhile. I have 3 chop saws and a benchtop band saw but they for woodworking so might be too fast for cutting steel. Chop saw would be better since I could make more accurate cuts. If I can cut them with an abrasive blade without annealing first and without spending $$$ on blades I'd try it.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:52
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CrazyLittle posted:probably one made out of harder metal yeah, this would be important i think.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:59
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You absolutely can cut them with an abrasive blade. They're going to get very, very hot at the cut site so you will want to immediately quench them and maybe consider taking little bites and dousing them in between the bites, to avoid killing the temper. You will also lose material to the width of the abrasive blade, and the cuts won't be perfectly smooth, so you may want to grind or polish or file the edges afterward, depending on what you want to do with them. Finally, make sure you secure both sides of the cut because you don't want shards of steel blade flying around the place. Wear eye protection. e. Oh that reminds me, an angle grinder with a cutting blade would work too, which pushes the options in my garage to five. 
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Feb 15, 2014 20:59
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I'll order an abrasive blade and give it a shot.
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Feb 15, 2014 21:04
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Leperflesh posted:You absolutely can cut them with an abrasive blade. They're going to get very, very hot at the cut site so you will want to immediately quench them and maybe consider taking little bites and dousing them in between the bites, to avoid killing the temper. or just say "gently caress it" and harden them after they're cut to size. I would not assume that it's hardened now. Having cut through my share of paperclips with paper cutters, I will say that the blades sure didn't seem to be hardened.
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Feb 15, 2014 21:04
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Abrasive blade on a handheld circular saw. Boom, done. They cost like 6 dollars.
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Feb 15, 2014 22:22
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Any advice on getting metal (scrap or new) to use to start loving around on a lathe and mill? I live in DC/MD. What would you all say? Online? Wholesale? Stealing scrap from a metalworking shop? I don't need to much now, I just want to know what you do to get your metal.
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Feb 16, 2014 13:24
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codered11343 posted:Any advice on getting metal (scrap or new) to use to start loving around on a lathe and mill? I live in DC/MD. What would you all say? Online? Wholesale? Stealing scrap from a metalworking shop? Call up the nearest community college with a shop and offer to buy their scrap bin. If you want something specific, this is the supplier to my school: https://www.myalro.com/ Checking a few sizes of cold roll, their prices are significantly better than onlinemetals.com but they ship freight so dunno if it would be worth it for a small order. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Feb 16, 2014 |
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Feb 16, 2014 16:45
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Find a metal recycler and ask if they sell chunk. The one here lets you pick through the bins for 2-5x scrap value in weight.
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Feb 16, 2014 18:23
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http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/store-finder/ That's where I get my metal.
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Feb 17, 2014 00:41
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codered11343 posted:Any advice on getting metal (scrap or new) to use to start loving around on a lathe and mill? I live in DC/MD. What would you all say? Online? Wholesale? Stealing scrap from a metalworking shop? poo poo, what do you need? I can fill a [pick your size] flat rate up with 6061, delrin, and brass pieces if you want some smaller chunks to mess around with to figure out feeds and speeds and such. Think the aluminum scrap just went out to the recycler, but there are enough weird other pieces around, I'm sure something could be found. E: hi thread, I'm a jack of all trades tech in a physics lab at the local University. I have about a year of working there under my belt, I'd welded before but never worked around a machine shop like this one. Thankfully, an inch is still an inch, so my learning curve has been steep. I'm basically entering the fabrication world like a hobbyist, but getting paid to learn as I go. E2: Been looking this sitting there, unanswered for too long now. the spyder posted:Fellow Bridgeport/clone owners- what DRO would you recommend? I've seen everything from $500- $1000. Looking for X-Y, possibly Z depending on price. Hobby shop use. We have an old J-head in the Lab that has just recently come back to our shop. It'd been in a student shop for probably 15 years (remind me to show you a pic of the bed some time, she's been through a LOT). The DRO on it is an old ACU-RITE 200m that has been faithfully chugging along all that time. Despite being obsolete according to that link, there's some cool poo poo going on there- bolt circles and tool offsets are the biggest features on top of just a basic digital DRO function, but for a hobbyist/wankel shop, that's probably about all you'd need before you got into something CNC anyway. So yeah, get something like that. glyph fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 02:14
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glyph posted:E: hi thread, I'm a jack of all trades tech in a physics lab at the local University. Out of curiousity, if you don't mind me asking, what University? I only ask because we do prototype work and student project stuff for some of the local schools.
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Feb 17, 2014 04:04
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Yesterday and today I fired up my forge for the first and second times. It varied between -5 and -20 Celcius and was deeply unpleasant. But I did manage to forge a lovely pair of tongs out of rebar! Looking forward to making another pair when it's a bit warmer. I think my next pair will be much better. Action shot of the forge: 
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Feb 17, 2014 04:28
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