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fallin1 posted:Found a cheap one at toys r us and it works like a charm. Thanks. Out of curiosity, what toy did you cannibalize?
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# ? Feb 12, 2014 04:18 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:54 |
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Kazy posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU-kUF6vBsE No CNC, sadly, but we do have a vacuum former.
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# ? Feb 12, 2014 04:48 |
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a cock shaped fruit posted:Out of curiosity, what toy did you cannibalize? It was a little voice changing megaphone I found in the bins by the registers. Does 4 different effects: child, boy, old man, and robot. The boy effect seems to apply a small reverse reverb effect which is what I was looking for.
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# ? Feb 12, 2014 16:59 |
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This Saturday my fiance and I are going to Anime Milwaukee, and he decided at the last minute he wanted to be a Darumaka (his favorite) to go along with my Pokemon trainer outfit. Fortunately, he already has the basic parts, a red sweater and pants, so I can just temporarily sew on some orange and yellow felt bits and call it a day without ruining any of his clothes. My question is the yellow eyebrows--he would prefer if I paint his face, but his forehead sweats easily so I'm hesitant to put paint on it, especially if he'll constantly wipe it off without realizing it. Will it work if I just spirit gum some big goofy craft foam eyebrows on him, or will the gum eat through the foam? I'm thinking it should be a little more sweat resistant and easier to reapply than face paint. He's a big fluffy guy (okay he's fat), which is probably why he likes this little dude so much.
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# ? Feb 13, 2014 01:07 |
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TunaSpleen posted:This Saturday my fiance and I are going to Anime Milwaukee, and he decided at the last minute he wanted to be a Darumaka (his favorite) to go along with my Pokemon trainer outfit. Fortunately, he already has the basic parts, a red sweater and pants, so I can just temporarily sew on some orange and yellow felt bits and call it a day without ruining any of his clothes. We did craft foam and spirit gum for my husband's Monarch costume eyebrows and he says they lasted decently, he had to reapply one but nothing crazy. Also keep an eye out for me and come say hi if I don't see you first, I'll be there in my new Khorne armor!
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# ? Feb 13, 2014 01:59 |
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Well.. I'm a very sad panda now. I was attempting to redo the tint on my Daft Punk helmet, and, well... Got the tint off, but now the whole thing is opaque, and I can't get it clear to be able to see. And of course, the person who sold the helmet on ebay refuses to respond to emails, so I'm screwed completely, and I have no way to fab a new visor. It's a Guy Manuel helmet, would any of the other Daft Goons be willing to do up a visor for me? I can tint it myself, but I just can't make a new one.
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# ? Feb 13, 2014 23:38 |
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TunaSpleen posted:My question is the yellow eyebrows--he would prefer if I paint his face, but his forehead sweats easily so I'm hesitant to put paint on it, especially if he'll constantly wipe it off without realizing it. Use grease paint, apply pure talc powder to it, and brush away the excess with a soft powder brush. It becomes totally matte, and you can touch your face and sweat in it with very little running or smearing. This is the method professional clowns use, and it will seriously last all day.
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# ? Feb 14, 2014 01:02 |
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You could also get a pair of non-prescription glasses (think dollar store sunglasses or 3D glasses), pop the lenses out, and attach the big floofy eyebrows to the frames. It would give him that bold dark line around the eyes, too.
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# ? Feb 14, 2014 02:04 |
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I updated my costume blog, got as far as the head sculpt which I hope is interesting to some folks http://strangercostume.blogspot.co.uk/ (I know it's grainy, it's a zoomed in pic from a larger original, there'll be better shots in later entries)
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# ? Feb 14, 2014 16:32 |
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Thanks for the suggestions, we'll experiment a bit tonight and see what looks best. I hope he doesn't look too awkward essentially dressed as a giant tomato with yellow eyebrows, but at least he's not one of the many meme-obsessed smelly bronies that will be there!
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# ? Feb 15, 2014 02:54 |
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After spending the entire day building clay walls and sealing, I now have a 1/3 completed multipart fibreglass mold for Stranger. The proof of the pudding will be tomorrow of course, when I remove part of the clay wall to do the second half, and more importaintly in a few days time when I crack the mold and find out whether it's actually *worked*, but at the moment tired but very satisfied with the days work
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# ? Feb 15, 2014 22:27 |
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Fatkraken posted:I updated my costume blog, got as far as the head sculpt which I hope is interesting to some folks That's really impressive so far, can't wait to see the finished costume.
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# ? Feb 16, 2014 03:59 |
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TwystNeko posted:Well.. I'm a very sad panda now. I was attempting to redo the tint on my Daft Punk helmet, and, well... Got the tint off, but now the whole thing is opaque, and I can't get it clear to be able to see. And of course, the person who sold the helmet on ebay refuses to respond to emails, so I'm screwed completely, and I have no way to fab a new visor. I have my original Guy visor mould, but my helmet was made to be a bit smaller, so it might not fit yours? If you're in a pinch message me and we can look at measurements. Hopefully my make-shift vacuum mould table will hold up for another round. On this year's cosplay font, I finally have enough pieces to become recognizable character! Yay! This is my first foray into sewing, and I only cried once, so I think I'm doing okay. The vest needs pockets and a bit of re-tailoring. I just picked up some faux-leather for the holster, so that will be my next project. Most of the Leia pieces have been crafted out wonderflex/clay. The latex mould for the front plate is curing right now, so hopefully I'll be able to pour resin tomorrow. I'll post pictures post-painting, because they already all look pretty sharp.
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# ? Feb 16, 2014 07:32 |
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Well, the first thing I'm going to try is to make a vacuform table, and convert the visor I have into a mold by remounting it, then filling it with plaster of paris, then removing that and trying a pull. If that fails, I'll drop you a line. Thanks!
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# ? Feb 16, 2014 10:00 |
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Just got back from Anime Milwaukee! Even though I did a ton of traveling this month I also managed to finish my axe for my Khorne costume before I went. I'm going to wait to post in the PYF thread until I have some actual shoot photos but for you guys here's the finished deal! I entered their contest and it was kind of a mess. The judges misinterpreted the categories and they ended up having to redo it all mid-contest so it took forever and they didn't announce best in show until the next day. So awkward. I won first place in singles though so I was pretty happy overall despite the screwups.
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# ? Feb 17, 2014 16:56 |
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I'm really torn at the moment between starting a whole new armor build for the Pacific Rim convention my friend is organizing and trying to finish some of my sidetracked projects. The new armor (drift pilot costume) is currently winning because I happen to have most of the materials on hand and a place to wear it, but I have a ton of guilt over my half-completed stuff, even though I would need to buy a bunch of stuff and don't have a particular con in mind for it. First world problems, I guess.
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# ? Feb 17, 2014 22:14 |
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So, I'm back home in Houston for 2 weeks, relaxing with my family when I remember that I have access to a whole garage of tools. 2 days later, here's how far I've come - It's very early yet, but I'm curious if anyone can recognize what it'll be when it's done.
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# ? Feb 17, 2014 23:50 |
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McKilligan posted:So, I'm back home in Houston for 2 weeks, relaxing with my family when I remember that I have access to a whole garage of tools. 2 days later, here's how far I've come - It's very early yet, but I'm curious if anyone can recognize what it'll be when it's done. I've just had a Latex/Resin disaster My partner miscounted the ratio of catalyst drops to the resin, and now we're left with a slightly tacky (and unusable) front Leia plate. Now my beautiful latex mould is left a little sticky in places - does anyone have any tips for cleaning so I can use it again? Is the toothbrush/warm water/dish soap route the best way to go? PezMaster fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Feb 18, 2014 |
# ? Feb 18, 2014 03:16 |
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PezMaster posted:I'm not up on sword history, but is it He-Man's sword of power? Because that would be awesome. What kind of resin was it? I think the best course of action will very much depend on that
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# ? Feb 18, 2014 17:39 |
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PezMaster posted:I'm not up on sword history, but is it He-Man's sword of power? Because that would be awesome. I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess you've use polyester resin, right? Latex retains moisture, and causes polyester to not cure properly. For latex moulds you need to use polyurethane, or use a pretty technical bondo-polyester resin hybrid coat that you really need to know what you're doing with. The bottom line is that catalysed polyester resin will always eventually cure, unless it's been contaminated with humidity.
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# ? Feb 18, 2014 18:12 |
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McPantserton posted:No CNC, sadly, but we do have a vacuum former. I may be able to source a positive mold, but I'm not sure whether it'd be economical to get it made and have it shipped off to be formed. Got a jacket. So the visor is pretty much all that is left.
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# ? Feb 18, 2014 22:31 |
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Quick question! Will paper clay stick to the masking tape I've got assisting my paper mache armature, or should I put a layer or three of paper mache overtop the masking tap? Edit: I've read elsewhere that it'll work okay, but I want to get expert advice before moving forward. my cat is norris fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Feb 18, 2014 |
# ? Feb 18, 2014 23:03 |
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Xaerael posted:I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess you've use polyester resin, right? Latex retains moisture, and causes polyester to not cure properly. For latex moulds you need to use polyurethane, or use a pretty technical bondo-polyester resin hybrid coat that you really need to know what you're doing with. Guilty! It sure was clear polyester resin (that was 60% through coupons, so I went for it). I actually tried a second one yesterday and, even with the correct amount of catalyst, still came out sticky - but you totally solved that mystery for me. Thanks! Hopefully everything will eventually cure like you said (of course, I live in Vancouver, so the environment is less the ideal for non-humidity) so I don't have to try it again. If not, polyurethane it is. my cat is norris posted:Quick question!
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# ? Feb 19, 2014 04:35 |
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I'm looking for someone to recommend a two part resin that hardens with some ABS like qualities. I'd like the parts that come out to be sort of drop resistant, and to have a little flex while remaining rigid. After some Googling I found that there is a Urethane resin that meets these needs, but it did not say what specific resin fits the bill.
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# ? Feb 19, 2014 19:29 |
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Polyurethane resin is pretty good stuff - pliable, sandable, and pretty resilient to most of the stresses that you can expect to put a costume through. Here's a Link to a pretty decent writeup of how to mix and use resin. I've found the same stuff in Korea, and I couldn't even read the tin that it came in. There are probably alot of brands, but as long as they specify polyurethane and come in a 1:1 ratio, you should be fine.
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# ? Feb 19, 2014 19:37 |
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McKilligan posted:Polyurethane resin is pretty good stuff - pliable, sandable, and pretty resilient to most of the stresses that you can expect to put a costume through. Awesome, I think that's the answer I was looking for then. It looks like Smooth-on makes exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks UberVexer fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Feb 19, 2014 |
# ? Feb 19, 2014 22:53 |
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Just realized that I linked to the wrong thing - he's talking about Polyester Resin, not Polyurethane. Here's the video about Polyurethane resin, I copied his process - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDwQg6CX25A
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# ? Feb 19, 2014 23:09 |
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Since a fair few people have been talking about resins, just a quick reminder: BE SAFE. Read the safety data, buy the correct protective equipment and work in an appropriate space. Polyester in particular is nasty stuff, it should never be used in a residence (we do all ours in a garage) and will do you a mischief if you huff too much of the vapour, but even the much gentler polyurethanes can have negative effects. One of the halves of polyurethane resin is a serious skin and respiratory sensitizer, that is to say the more often you get exposed (such as working without gloves or adequate respiratory protection) the more likely you are to have an adverse reaction. I know of one self employed costume maker who is now very sensitive to the MDI in uncured resin after using it without ill effect for years, due to occasional spillages and skin contact, and now breaks out in hives at the slightest touch of the stuff and has to be ridiculously careful when using it. It's much better to avoid this in the first place with proper protective clothing, gloves and where appropriate a correctly fitted face mask with the right filters
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# ? Feb 20, 2014 12:06 |
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Fatkraken posted:Since a fair few people have been talking about resins, just a quick reminder: BE SAFE. Read the safety data, buy the correct protective equipment and work in an appropriate space. Polyester in particular is nasty stuff, it should never be used in a residence (we do all ours in a garage) and will do you a mischief if you huff too much of the vapour, but even the much gentler polyurethanes can have negative effects. On the topic of safety: Aside from resin safety, when you are cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth you should always wear a mask. Fibers are serious poo poo inside of your lungs.
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# ? Feb 20, 2014 12:33 |
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UberVexer posted:On the topic of safety: Aside from resin safety, when you are cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth you should always wear a mask. Or indeed cutting cured resin, plastic, fibreboard or wood, or even trimming faux fur. Or sweeping up afterwards. Good rule of thumb, if it creates particles that are small enough to float in the air, wear at least a dust mask or possibly even a fitted respirator with a dust filter; not always strictly necessary, but infinitely preferable to lungs full of crap that is highly irritating at BEST.
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# ? Feb 20, 2014 13:22 |
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After way too long, I finally got to shoot some of the costumes I've finished over the past year. Wore this to Katsucon last weekend and had a lot of fun, despite shooting in the cold and getting a wet butt. There's nothing quite as enjoyable as spending hours sewing something only to dirty the hell out of it with paint and sandpaper. Morrigan from Dragon Age: Origins. Sacred Ashes version. I have a lot of progress photos, just located on my Instagram. Still want to fully weather the bracers/boots, anchor the straps since they kept slipping, and make the staff/cloak. Also wore Patricia Tannis from Borderlands 2, but haven't gotten those photos back yet. It was my first costume that lit up, so I'm excited to see how they turn out. Next up: Kan-E-Senna from Final Fantasy XIV. Because horns.
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# ? Feb 20, 2014 18:11 |
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http://strangercostume.blogspot.co.uk/ blog update today, some better pictures of the finished sculpt, with some details shots, and a long entry about making a fibreglass mold Fatkraken fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Feb 20, 2014 |
# ? Feb 20, 2014 20:56 |
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Sleepy mastiff for scale. Made some more progress, some of you might actually recognize it at this point - I'd forgotten how heavy sculpey can be, the whole hilt area of the things weighs a ton. I'm not even sure if this poo poo will be con-legal, if not, it'll just have to look sweet on my wall. Can't wait to get to the painting stage, but there's still a few bits and doodads to sculpt and attach.
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# ? Feb 20, 2014 23:44 |
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God, yeah. For con use, that thing's going to be absurdly heavy if you keep that sculpey. I'd probably want to do it up in sculpey and use that to make a mold and cast the parts you're actually going to use.
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# ? Feb 21, 2014 05:56 |
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I've never made a mold or a cast, especially of something so large! I might just deal with the weight, but it would be nice to be able to make duplicates...any links to some good casting guides for this kind of thing?
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# ? Feb 21, 2014 14:23 |
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Are you covering the whole thing in sculpey, or just that hilt area? Paperclay dries lighter than sculpey in my experience. Just a thought.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 01:38 |
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Paperclay is so hard to sand though and it won't be nearly as detailed as a harder clay. I like doing paper clay as the very bottom structure and covering it in a thin skin of apoxie sculpt for the actual surface. really though, I'm not sure how much weight would be saved on a sword hilt that way, it's not that big to begin with. How much does it actually weigh? How heavy is the wood?
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 01:43 |
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Ugh I came up a yard short on my fabric to make the pants for scarecrow. Now I have to try and color match what I have. Hopefully it won't be a problem even though I got my original off the clearance table.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 05:54 |
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McPantserton posted:Paperclay is so hard to sand though and it won't be nearly as detailed as a harder clay. I like doing paper clay as the very bottom structure and covering it in a thin skin of apoxie sculpt for the actual surface. really though, I'm not sure how much weight would be saved on a sword hilt that way, it's not that big to begin with. How much does it actually weigh? How heavy is the wood? It's really not too onerous, I used two bricks of sculpey altogether. The wood is pine, so not too heavy, as woods go. I'll throw the while thing on the scale tomorrow, but I'm guessing about 20 pounds? At any rate, I've finally finished all the detail work, and tomorrow I'll start hitting it with a few layers of polyurethane sealant to get it ready for painting.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 08:20 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:54 |
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fallin1 posted:Ugh I came up a yard short on my fabric to make the pants for scarecrow. Now I have to try and color match what I have. Hopefully it won't be a problem even though I got my original off the clearance table. What colour are they set to be, and is the fabric synthetic or natural fibres? If they're on the darker side and you've used cotton or wool based fabrics, you can make up the trousers then dye the whole thing down to the same colour with a packet of cheap fabric dye if you have any colour mismatch edit in other news, did some initial sketching for my next costume, Brienne from Game of Thrones since I want something a bit more relaxing to work on during breaks in Stranger. The shots on the TV show are either poor angles or poor lighting so I grabbed a buncha screen shots and puzzled out what was going on got my eye on an old pair of velvet curtains on ebay since those should have the weight and drape I'm after, if that falls through I'll be scouring a few dozen charity shops in town for similar Fatkraken fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Feb 22, 2014 |
# ? Feb 22, 2014 13:06 |