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JackMann posted:Scale Creep's your friend there. Sweet, thanks! I can get chestnut ink again if mine dries up (it's somehow lasted since 2002). Side thing: I stopped into a GW store today (the one in Orland Park, IL) on my lunch break and got some washes. I was expecting the clerk to be some goony redshirt like I was used to seeing, but he was pretty chill and didn't ask much other than what army I was painting. I was surprised at how small the store was too. Really wish there was FLGS in the area though, I don't think I'd play there.
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Feb 13, 2014 20:18
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah, I want to like the GW paints, but this poo poo keeps happening to me as well. I opened my Foundation yellow the other day and it was a gummy mess. Hopefully some water will take care of that. According to Vallejo, you should store dropper bottles point down. When ready to paint with them, instead of shaking them, you should roll them horizontally. I've been doing this with my dropper bottles, since learning it, and it has helped avoid that burst of paint.
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Feb 13, 2014 20:21
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Any suggestions for water effects? Making some swamp bases and after recommendations for decent easy to use water effects to make shallow swampy pools.
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Feb 13, 2014 20:25
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Serotonin posted:Any suggestions for water effects? A couple layers of ink and then a thin layer of clear resin or Mod Podge or something? You can alternate ink and clear layers for more (apparent) depth.
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Feb 13, 2014 20:42
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Serotonin posted:Any suggestions for water effects? I like Woodland Scenics. Their realistic water is good for calm stuff and there's a water effects one for whitewater.   http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/c1211/page/1
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Feb 13, 2014 20:53
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I've done a lot of casting and mould making recently, is anyone interested in a tutorial?
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Feb 13, 2014 21:02
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I made a visual tutorial of sorts for painting, rust, and Chipping effects on a barricade. This could work on anything however, vehicles, armor etc. so I figured Id share it with you all. Tools / Products Used: Airbrush (not required but recommended) Cheap paintbrushes (I used 3 total but you could use just one) Matte Medium Rock Salt w/ grinder Vallejo Surface Primer - German Red Brown 73.605 Vallejo Model Air - Ochre 71.033 Vallejo Game Color - Gunmetal 72.054 Mig - Standard Rust Effects 1) Prime object with German Red Brown 2) Apply spots of Matte Medium, thick is fine, in fact when it dries it helps to add texture to the rust effect. This was experimental in that I had not see anyone else try to use matte medium for this effect, its usually suggested that people use hairspray. Matte medium is cheap and can be purchased in large quantities. While the matte medium is still wet apply ground rock salt over it, you want varied sizes and amount, some of it will fall off and that's fine.  3) I let it dry a while then tapped off the extra salt, and used my airbrush to blow away some excess. Then I applied a decent coat of Ochre, I didn't want it too heavy, some modularity is good for the visual effect.  4) Then apply water to all of the areas with salt, and let it sit a minute or so.  5) I then used an old stiff toothbrush and worked all the salt off the part, some spots got a little too much work and the raw plastic peeked through. This isn't an issue though and I will cover that in a moment.  6) Once it was completely dry I took an old stiff brush and some VGC Gunmetal and applied it to all areas that the plastic was showing through the primer, this was mainly at the hardest edges, I allowed it to go on fairly thick. 7) After that I applied a moderate amount of black wash and let it fully dry.  8) Finally I used the Mig Standard Rust Effect and applied it over the "rusted" spots. this was just a matter of dipping an old brush in the fluid and touching it to the areas I wanted it.  As you can see the rust looks pretty textured and has dimension to it thanks to the matte medium. I personally think it turned out pretty well and this was my first real attempt to apply this degree of weathering. Thoughts? LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 21:06
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So I'm looking for a decent lasercut wood/mdf painting station yet most of the things I'm turning up with google searches are both far too expensive and shipped from Europe. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a webstore in the US that's good for that sort of thing?
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Feb 13, 2014 21:20
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Devlan Mud posted:So I'm looking for a decent lasercut wood/mdf painting station yet most of the things I'm turning up with google searches are both far too expensive and shipped from Europe. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a webstore in the US that's good for that sort of thing? There are not ~any~ One of the reasons I have been musing about getting mine set up.
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Feb 13, 2014 21:24
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LumberingTroll posted:There are not ~any~ One of the reasons I have been musing about getting mine set up. That's kind of what I was afraid of, which is a shame, because I've got a relatively small apartment, and if I could consolidate my hobby area into a workstation, I could end up having a lot more room by changing furniture. I just don't want to spend close to 100 dollars all told to do that.
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Feb 13, 2014 21:26
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Pilgrimski posted:I like Woodland Scenics. Their realistic water is good for calm stuff and there's a water effects one for whitewater. Out of curiosity, what did you do to get that stone texture? I mean it looks like a (really smooth!) base coat of grey, and then a light white drybrushing? It just really makes the detail "pop" while still being kind of stylized.
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Feb 13, 2014 21:45
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LumberingTroll posted:Thoughts? The rust effect looks very...splattered. As if someone had opened up MS paint and used the airbrush tool. This is mostly in the smaller areas. They just seem a bit too 'rounded' (for lack of a better term). I've done this technique using hairspray to decent effect. If you don't want the previous layer to rub down and expose the plastic, hit it with a coat or two of varnish; matte should do, but if you're doing it heavily I'd go for gloss instead.
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Feb 13, 2014 22:23
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Pilgrimski posted:I've done a lot of casting and mould making recently, is anyone interested in a tutorial? Yes! I was looking into it this week. I'd be all over it.
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Feb 13, 2014 22:27
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Empty Sandwich posted:I haven't sculpted or painted much real miniatures stuff in a while, and I haven't played a nerd game in for loving ever, but I'm going to restart both. Here's something I sculpted for Zoofights VI: Yessssss Murducken 
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Feb 13, 2014 23:41
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Anyone with recommendations on a ultrasonic cleaner for stripping models?
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Feb 14, 2014 01:37
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Yessssss Murducken Not gonna lie. I'd pay good money for zoofights miniatures.
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Feb 14, 2014 03:15
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Serotonin posted:Any suggestions for water effects? I'm also interested in water effects suggestions. The problem I'm having with them is that they won't seem to set worth a drat for me. I'm talking weeks of "touch it and you'll see your finger print in it". I have one base that took months to dry to the point that I could handle it.
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Feb 14, 2014 04:34
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Another squad finished! Only 24 to go!
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Feb 14, 2014 06:00
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Tequila Ranger posted:Anyone with recommendations on a ultrasonic cleaner for stripping models? I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...rasonic+cleaner and it works well enough. With a small size jewelry cleaner like this even the nicest ones won't be doing the stripping work for you really; you can't just throw a model into it and have it come out clean. You still need to Super Clean/Simple Green soak the models for a while to break down the paint. The ultrasonic cleaner helps loosen the paint out of the crevices (and also break up glue bonds) and after 3 cycles or so (the cleaner only runs for 3 minutes at a time) you can basically rinse 90% of the paint off with water and scrub the rest off pretty easily. It can hold about 10 space marine models total, the biggest vehicle that could fit in it would probably be a Piranha...maybe. Also you can clean your airbrushes in it which is incredibly useful, you'd be surprised just how dirty your airbrushes are even if you take really good care of them. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Feb 14, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 06:56
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Pacheeco posted:I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...rasonic+cleaner and it works well enough. With a small size jewelry cleaner like this even the nicest ones won't be doing the stripping work for you really; you can't just throw a model into it and have it come out clean. You still need to Super Clean/Simple Green soak the models for a while to break down the paint. The ultrasonic cleaner helps loosen the paint out of the crevices (and also break up glue bonds) and after 3 cycles or so (the cleaner only runs for 3 minutes at a time) you can basically rinse 90% of the paint off with water and scrub the rest off pretty easily. It can hold about 10 space marine models total, the biggest vehicle that could fit in it would probably be a Piranha...maybe. Also you can clean your airbrushes in it which is incredibly useful, you'd be surprised just how dirty your airbrushes are even if you take really good care of them. my buddy picked up an ultrasonic cleaner from an industrial used electronic lab equipment store. It fits a large handgun and is about 6 inches deep. Got it fairly cheap too.
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Feb 14, 2014 08:16
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Serotonin posted:Any suggestions for water effects? Go buy a box of Envirotex Lite. You'll get a ton of product for cheap that works great for water effects. I just dab in paint drops to colour it whatever shade I wanted before pouring. Pardon the dust.  
thiswayliesmadness fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Feb 14, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 10:43
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LingcodKilla posted:my buddy picked up an ultrasonic cleaner from an industrial used electronic lab equipment store. It fits a large handgun and is about 6 inches deep. Got it fairly cheap too. What a strange metric to use. Americans are weird.
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Feb 14, 2014 13:23
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Big Willy Style posted:What a strange metric to use. Americans are weird. Yeah, seriously, when will the US stop using Imperial units? With a bit of leave, I have a four day weekend this weekend. I am going to try to get my Kharibdyss finished.. I have two severed heads and four lizardman skinks to paint up, plus a bunch of basing to do. I've got a bunch of stuff I'm planning to use to give it a nice jungle vibe, so hopefully it'll look as good as I'm hoping.
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Feb 14, 2014 14:12
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Big Willy Style posted:What a strange metric to use. Americans are weird. Desert Eagle large or M1911 large? The plastic army man painters must know!
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Feb 14, 2014 14:28
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LumberingTroll posted:There are not ~any~ One of the reasons I have been musing about getting mine set up. Yeah man get on this so you can take my money!
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Feb 14, 2014 14:36
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Got some test pics of the big ole dragon.    Trying to find a good bone recipe. Coming up with nothing so far, I hate painting whites though.
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Feb 14, 2014 15:14
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Dr. Clockwork posted:Yeah man get on this so you can take my money! I really would like to, its a matter of time right now. Most of mine is spent at the studio getting this game done. That and its been below zero for the past few months so I haven't wanted to go out to my garage to mess with my laser cutter.
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Feb 14, 2014 17:19
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Tequila Ranger posted:Anyone with recommendations on a ultrasonic cleaner for stripping models? I have this one from Harbor Freight (though I don't remember it being that expensive.) Obviously, use a coupon to get it cheaper. As previously stated, it isn't going to strip your models magically. It's helpful as an additional tool, but a good two- or more day soak in Super Clean is going to be the best way to strip paint. Now, on the flip side, I had primed and painted some models, and I didn't like the way they were coming out as I was painting them. I soaked them for 30 minutes in Super Clean and did a 5 minute hot bath of Simple Green in the cleaner, and the paint and primer came right off when I used a brush on it (yes, you will still have to scrub.) Obviously, the newness of the priming was a huge factor, but I do believe that the cleaner was able to loosen things up a bit more.
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Feb 14, 2014 17:29
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When using the sonic cleaner, do you use Simple Green in the machine or water? Will Simple Green tarnish or harm the bath?
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Feb 14, 2014 18:18
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Anyone had any experience with using GW's Agrellan Earth technical paint on models? My thought is that the cracked effect might look really cool on a Circle of Orboros Wold (Stone Construct), to give an aged/cracked look to it, but I'm not sure if it's meant to be painted over.
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Feb 14, 2014 18:55
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Beerdeer posted:When using the sonic cleaner, do you use Simple Green in the machine or water? Will Simple Green tarnish or harm the bath? I've got Simple Green in there right now, with seemingly no ill effects. I don't know if water would do the same thing, but I figured SG wouldn't cause any harm to the unit and might help with the stripping process.
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Feb 14, 2014 19:09
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SRM posted:This old Tigurius model took me a while to paint. There's a lot of detail on this old fig, and I honestly like him a lot more than the current sculpt. The robes were really fun to paint, even if it was just blocks of yellow and orange wash. I probably should have left the backpack off, since it made painting the Ultramarines icon kind of difficult, so it's a little wonky looking. Other than that I'm pretty happy with him!
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Feb 14, 2014 19:31
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Lethemonster posted:Got some test pics of the big ole dragon. Squeeeeee! Or similar. Looking great thus far.
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Feb 14, 2014 19:39
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Beerdeer posted:When using the sonic cleaner, do you use Simple Green in the machine or water? Will Simple Green tarnish or harm the bath? I soak my models in some Super Clean in tupperware for a while before I run them through the ultrasonic cleaner and then I just use water usually. I've put Super Clean in the cleaner and left Windex in it for like a week straight and there didn't seem to be any tarnishing. The "tub" is usually made of stainless steel if I'm not mistaken.
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Feb 14, 2014 19:43
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Baron Bifford posted:You used yellow instead of gold paint. It's a little gaudy to me. Let me tell you about a time.  A simpler time.  A more colorful time.       Some may even say a better time.   It was the 1990s. 40k was in its second edition. That's the aesthetic I'm trying to capture with my Ultramarines.     It's gaudy and colorful and like a saturday morning cartoon and I love the hell out of it.
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Feb 14, 2014 19:52
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SRM posted:Let me tell you about a time. I think I have most of those models upstairs, from my teenage years...
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Feb 14, 2014 19:57
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gilljoy posted:Its very good stuff though I've noticed with a lot of GW paints mine are becoming a gloopy mess in the bottle. Is this fixable? I've switched to using grey undercoat and Reaper white but I still have an almost full bottle of ceramite w/ the black and white gloop. It's weird how the paint is white but when it separates it's an oilslick in there. SRM posted:Let me tell you about a time. Any tips to painting in this style? These are really awesome and I definitely like it better than the ultra gritty style.
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Feb 14, 2014 20:12
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Those 90s-style warhams pictures are making me nostalgia like gently caress, it's great. Where are the paper back banners though?
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Feb 14, 2014 20:17
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Verdugo posted:Is this fixable? I've switched to using grey undercoat and Reaper white but I still have an almost full bottle of ceramite w/ the black and white gloop. It's weird how the paint is white but when it separates it's an oilslick in there. You can stir it up really well and it's fine, but it'll separate again. At a certain point if you let it goop up too much it may be unrecoverable though. It's not fixable in the sense of getting it to stop doing that, as far as I know. It's just a problem with their formula (and several other companies formulas as well)
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Feb 14, 2014 20:18
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SRM posted:It's gaudy and colorful and like a saturday morning cartoon and I love the hell out of it. Well, I certainly can't fault your technical skills. You are pretty darn handy with a brush.
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Feb 14, 2014 20:28
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