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Thanks! I’ll be adding the sponsons once I find the guns, this thing sucked up a lot of my chaos/imperial bits I had laying around Warning, incoming words: For doing the plastic, mostly it was a small metal ruler and hobby knife. Mark off 3 spots for the size of the piece I want [say 1cm] and then score/snap it. Once I had the pieces cut out, I’d sand a little bit to even up the edges if they were a bit wavy or didn’t match. Usually by tightly gripping both pieces together and sanding them on 220 grit gently so they’d match up. For bringing edges to a bevel [or fixing a piece that I seriously hosed up and is way off the measure I wanted], give it a few swipes on some 120 grit sandpaper. The 120 really grinds it down though, so only do a couple passes before checking the evenness of the piece. There’s nothing really special than the trades rule of making sure you measure twice cut once, hold the ruler down as tightly as you can, and a sharp knife to make as clean and even a cut as you can. Plastic sizes for this are mostly 1mm, and a bit of leftover 1.5mm I had laying around. Mostly for structure though and large panels. The really angled pieces like on the turret are .5mm for the small angled bits since it’s just easier to work with. The trim is 3.2mm x .8mm [could have been .5mm thickness really]. The raised paneling is .5mm thickness, I tried getting a pack of .3mm and it’s nearly paper thin, doesn’t give the raised edge like the models usually show. 220 grit sandpaper is what I’ve used over the entire thing to smooth down edges/glue lines and to give the primer some tooth to bite into. A good poly cement is also a must, it’ll melt and “weld” the joints together, a lot of this would just come apart given enough time if it were superglue, especially the following project because of its own weight. Maybe it’s just me but I also find having sanded/unsanded panels you can see the difference in the paint finish. Or I’m just a sperg. Alright so I made this a couple years ago because I was jealous of the poo poo coming from forgeworld and everyone else with their fancy super heavies. I’m stubborn enough that I’ll refuse to pay $200+ for a model I feel I could make myself. The story was I read about the “stalk tanks”, found a website with a tutorial, thought “I can do better than that”, and set about to make a “small one.” Soon realized I had vastly oversized what I was doing. Then decided to go big. Would link to the website that I initially found, but simply can’t find it anymore.    Hopefully that gives some idea of how they went together. If I remember right, the main chassis was made with 1.5mm or 2mm thick sheeting, since I knew it would be load bearing and under a lot of stress from the legs. You can see the cross bracing I put in just in case the walls needed shoring up. The joints I made a mistake on by having them too thin, the knuckles should really be at minimum 1.5mm thick sheets layered together 5 deep. Two one direction, three another. [initially I had put on too few and two of the legs snapped off under its own weight] The armour paneling was mostly 2mm thick sheeting with .5mm thick trim, and the legs were just long boxes, so 1mm was thick enough since the shape gives itself the strength. The pistons are from some sort of construction toys. I was about to make my own when I was wandering a thrift store, and found a box full of a matching set for ten bucks. The flamer assembly is from either a dozer or backhoe that I trimmed down. The rivets are thin plastic rod snipped down to little rivet sized things, dipped in a puddle of glue and tweezed on. I thought fifty would be enough, no. There's about 250+ individual rivets. Now that I'm nearly done the backwards russ, I'm thinking of going back and adding sponsons to the lower thorax of this thing, and maybe a "shield generator" type deal to the front/underside of it, since those are all parts that can all just be made seperately and glued on directly. Material cost is about 35-50 bucks, with enough leftover to make something else. I maintain if you can make a box, you can make anything.   Thanks for liking my junk, I was actually nervous about posting anything, like I’m happy with it, but I feel most of it’s just “ok” at best in comparison to the ridiculous poo poo I see in this thread constantly.
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Feb 18, 2014 01:15
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/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ How sturdy are models made of plastic card? I always worry they will get broken even with minimal play time. JerryLee posted:I haven't had a problem reaching into Super Clean with my bare fingers to retrieve models, as long as I rinse them off within a few minutes (the fingers). I don't know if it's related to the fact that I'm technically using a generic knockoff rather than brand name Super Clean, but it seems to strip the paint as well as I'd expect. I use it bare handed but you are supposed to use gloves so I typically recommend it. Super Clean is the best paint stripper I have ever used. Everything else is either too weak or so harsh it damages plastic.
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Feb 18, 2014 01:54
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I've already dropped the tank body from the table onto hardwood, couldn't find any damage. The thinner joints of the walker need a bit more care but just moving it around isn't a problem. I've made a Ghostbusters proton gun using 2mm thick card with a bit of cross bracing, dropped that onto the floor a couple times and there's no cracking either ( and its survived a few conventions now with the usual people slamming into me or catching onto my backpack). 1mm that's not reinforced could crack and .5mm is definately fragile regardless, but generally any box like shape is really strong as long as you've used poly glue and not super.
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Feb 18, 2014 02:19
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Boon posted:I know it comes up every so often, but I've not had to strip something before so I've passed on those posts. That said, what is the best agent to strip metal models? Simple Green? ...I think the other reason why I use these is that Simple Green and derivatives are unavailable locally 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 02:42
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Does anybody know if mean green is any good? I grabbed some LAs Totally Awesome but it doesn't get things completely clean. Also, what was the use for the Pledge floor cleaner? I seem to remember that some people used it to make washes or varnish models or maybe both...
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Feb 18, 2014 02:55
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jodai posted:Does anybody know if mean green is any good? I grabbed some LAs Totally Awesome but it doesn't get things completely clean. Also, what was the use for the Pledge floor cleaner? I seem to remember that some people used it to make washes or varnish models or maybe both... Both. Future Floor Polish (now called Pledge with Future Shine in the US) is a clear acrylic gloss medium, basically. So it makes great gloss varnish, and can be used wherever you would otherwise use flow-aid or gloss medium, such as making washes. It also can be used to make model aircraft canopies crystal clear. Or to polish your floor. Some people are snobs about it and claim there's no reason in this day and age to use DIY additives like that when purpose-made hobby products are so easy to get, but Future is dirt cheap, and smells nice and works perfectly, as well as being thin enough to airbrush with no modification. I have also heard people claim it yellows with age (as in years), but I have seen decades old models varnished with it and they were fine. I think those people are actually seeing their white paint yellow with age and blaming it on the Future.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:03
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You're not going to get anything perfectly clean. In reality you're still going to have some bits of primer gunk in the deep cracks, thats just how it be. Metals are a different beast. You can use acetone and a toothbrush to get metals looking like they just came from a blister, I do this for pretty much everything I sell on ebay just because.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:06
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VolatileSky posted:Thanks! I’ll be adding the sponsons once I find the guns, this thing sucked up a lot of my chaos/imperial bits I had laying around Holy poo poo, thanks for the  ! I haven't scratch built anything quite so elaborate, but I am really digging working with the plasticard. It's so much fun but also new to me so I am voraciously reading up on anything having to do with it. Your work is really good, don't sell yourself short. I have a feeling that the site you saw with the stalk tank is Dave Taylor's blog. I met him a long time ago at a GT and he spoke very nicely of my Dark Angels. He gave me great advice (and I actually won Best Army with them the next year thanks in no small part to his advice), so I've been keeping up with him ever since. Is this what you saw? http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/search/label/Stalk%20Tank%20Datasheet
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Feb 18, 2014 03:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Holy poo poo, thanks for the Thanks! Yeah that's the blog! you can see the parallels where I liked certain things but changed portions like the armor shapes/leg segments/head. Other difference is how mines about 13' long, 9' tall.
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Feb 18, 2014 03:55
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jodai posted:Does anybody know if mean green is any good? I grabbed some LAs Totally Awesome but it doesn't get things completely clean. Also, what was the use for the Pledge floor cleaner? I seem to remember that some people used it to make washes or varnish models or maybe both... Future is a great cheap gloss varnish/sealer. You can use it to make washes and glazes. I use it to thin paint as well. Also you can spray it on your clear flyer canopies and small/large skimmer bases and when it dries they will be much more clear which just looks nice. I've also brushed it onto some of my Chaos Daemon's eyes. It makes a really subtle glassy effect which looks pretty decent when you go with something like a solid single color eye. You could probably put it on lenses and gems as well.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:01
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JoshTheStampede posted:I'll definitely check that stuff out next time I am at the art store. I'm still sort of confused though, since I've watched a bajillion oil wash videos and they never use anything but mineral spirits, and yet this doesn't seem to happen to them. Are we thinning too much? Using lower-quality oil paints? So here's where poo poo gets crazy. Different oil paints have different carriers- linseed oil, safflower, poppy seed, walnut oil etc. etc. You need to make sure that your solvent is actually compatible with the oil carrier used in your oil paint. Also, some colors break down more aggressively than others. That's just two things that could be happening. Making sure the surface you are painting is clean is also important and you could certainly be over thinning a cheap oil paint as well. There are lots of possible factors here, but you should be getting pretty decent results doing pin washes even if things aren't ideal. It's only when you start wanting to use the oil like an acrylic wash or filter that you need to add some type of medium. Slimnoid posted:I never thought of adding medium and flow aid, but that makes a lot of sense. What would you recommend for an oil:medium:aid:solvent ratio? That's really what gets me hung up on making a good oil wash consistently. I'm still experimenting, but so far 5:1:1 solvent, paint, medium gets me pretty good results. I like my washes pretty thin though.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:25
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I'm assuming the winter basing kit from GW, like all GW products, is a gigantic waste of money, right?
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Feb 18, 2014 04:41
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The Gale Force Nine products are much, much better, cheaper, and easier to store.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:43
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Business Gorillas posted:I'm assuming the winter basing kit from GW, like all GW products, is a gigantic waste of money, right? Yes. Just look around and you will find the same stuff cheaper. Hell I got snow basing stuff from Michaels. It was a senic kit for a school diorama. It isn't enough for a full army, but with a half off coupon it is cheap and more than enough for my Infinity models.
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Feb 18, 2014 06:58
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About time I gave this army some armored support!    And with Tigurius: 
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Feb 18, 2014 06:58
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Okay, for future reference, if it looks like the basing is going to need some filler, go ahead and add filler instead of trying the flock first. Do not add flock, then decide you need to add filler.
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Feb 18, 2014 08:30
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Can any UK goons let me know where they get plasticard from? I'm thinking about doing counter bases for all my big minis, particularly dragons, after the success (more on that later if and when I finish it) of the base for my Hydra, and plastical to make the counting wheels would be ideal.
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Feb 18, 2014 09:22
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Plasticard models can be incredibly robust if they are braced properly and you've used a proper plastic cement to assemble them-- i.e. Testor's model glue, not super glue.
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Feb 18, 2014 09:45
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thespaceinvader posted:Can any UK goons let me know where they get plasticard from? I'm thinking about doing counter bases for all my big minis, particularly dragons, after the success (more on that later if and when I finish it) of the base for my Hydra, and plastical to make the counting wheels would be ideal. http://antenocitisworkshop.com/ ...will generally have everything you need for scratchbuilding stuff. Failing that, I just trawl ebay for the right sizes. Look under the 'scratchbuidlers paradise' navigation section and a world of scratchbuilding materials and tools awaits you... also, hide your wallet in case something terrible happens 
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Feb 18, 2014 10:03
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I found a new oil weathering technique today: Do an oil wash and then let it completely dry (~2 days). Then come back and take it away with mineral spirit. This is how you do most oil weathering... except you usually don't wait until its completely dry. Why? Because its harder to take away completely dry oil paints. However, if you do let it dry all the way, it takes more spirit and more force, but you have much more control over how it gets chipped away. You get more natural effects this way IMO.
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Feb 18, 2014 10:05
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thespaceinvader posted:Can any UK goons let me know where they get plasticard from? enri posted:http://antenocitisworkshop.com/ Antenocitisworkshop is a wonderful place to shop, but for plain plasticard, ebay is probably better. You can get much better prices. If you are looking for some textured plasticard, then look here: https://slatersplastikard.com/ A lot of other places stock this stuff with a markup.
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Feb 18, 2014 12:26
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So now that I've gotten all my infantry models back home because the transport case they were in is returning to it's actual owner I started thinking about if I shouldn't base them properly or not. Of course I have no idea what to do with it other than the typical Goblin Green base which I really don't like. Nothing wrong with it as SRM's classical painted stuff shows it can work, I just don't generally like it otherwise. Currently they are all painted VMC Black Grey with the exception of one squad that I got from a friend that are on tan painted bases. My only real idea so far is to keep the top part painted black and then colour code the sides of the bases so I can more easily pick out different squads as the only identifier so far is that one shoulder plate is painted in metal. Which turned out to be a really terrible way when you have normal Guard infantry in hindsight, especially when there is bad lighting. Here's a picture showing all the group leaders with the exception of the medic who is filling in for the company commander. 
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Feb 18, 2014 14:04
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thespaceinvader posted:Can any UK goons let me know where they get plasticard from? I'm thinking about doing counter bases for all my big minis, particularly dragons, after the success (more on that later if and when I finish it) of the base for my Hydra, and plastical to make the counting wheels would be ideal. I bought mine from hobby craft and modelzone. Whether they have it in stock is random from store to store though, so ebay is your best bet.
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Feb 18, 2014 14:10
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SRM posted:About time I gave this army some armored support! I love that you've shunned the use of large round bases too legit 90s marine army spotted Lethemonster posted:I bought mine from hobby craft and modelzone. Whether they have it in stock is random from store to store though, so ebay is your best bet. I think modelzone went bust didn't they? our local store has been shut down for a long time now Our hobbycraft is huge but totally lacks anything interesting like plasticard and the like  edit: just had a quick sanity check, they went into administration in June last year but WH Smiths bought them in October and are still operating online and selling through their own stores. enri fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 14:12
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enri posted:I love that you've shunned the use of large round bases too Yeah they left some of the bigger stores intact as-is. My local one closed though and now I can't go look at VMC paints for hours :<
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Feb 18, 2014 15:03
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SRM posted:About time I gave this army some armored support! 40mm square base, mounted diagonally. 2e as gently caress. edit: the longer claws are loving with me though, should've sanded them down into nubbins like the old metal dread
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Feb 18, 2014 16:27
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SRM posted:About time I gave this army some armored support! Are those decals or actually painted on? I feel like decals are a very old school thing, probably because in the 90s I covered my soapbox derby car in flames, hornets and firebirds. Youth 
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Feb 18, 2014 16:43
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will blow your mind.
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enri posted:I love that you've shunned the use of large round bases too Silhouette posted:40mm square base, mounted diagonally. WhiteOutMouse posted:Are those decals or actually painted on?
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Feb 18, 2014 17:27
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SRM posted:Thanks man! When I eventually do Guard allies (and oh, I do have them) I'll have the heavy weapons teams mounted on these too. I know it isn't quite authentic to the era, but it's functionally easier to work with than the loose heavy weapon, and doesn't involve me picking the model up by the metal. If you're serious I may be able to help. I have one (maybe two) old rear end metal dreads.
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Feb 18, 2014 17:35
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thespaceinvader posted:Can any UK goons let me know where they get plasticard from? I'm thinking about doing counter bases for all my big minis, particularly dragons, after the success (more on that later if and when I finish it) of the base for my Hydra, and plastical to make the counting wheels would be ideal. This one, 100% recommended: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Sheets...=item43a6ea34e3 Gives you a huge selection and variety of plasticard. They've also got packs of specific thicknesses too.
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Feb 18, 2014 18:16
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Lethemonster posted:I bought mine from hobby craft and modelzone. Whether they have it in stock is random from store to store though, so ebay is your best bet. I get mine from Antics, you might have one near you. Lots of good stuff for scratch building, mainly aimed at model railway fans and RC car guys but good for modelling.
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Feb 18, 2014 18:35
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I can't believe how much of a racket selling little squares of polystyrene is. You guys know the actual manufacturing cost of that stuff is something on the order of a penny a sheet, right? Even if the price is "reasonable" compared to buying model kits from GW (and it absolutely is), it just kills me to pay something like a 5000% markup on sheets of plastic.
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Feb 18, 2014 18:49
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Leperflesh posted:I can't believe how much of a racket selling little squares of polystyrene is. You guys know the actual manufacturing cost of that stuff is something on the order of a penny a sheet, right? Even if the price is "reasonable" compared to buying model kits from GW (and it absolutely is), it just kills me to pay something like a 5000% markup on sheets of plastic. (Which reminds me, I have to try out the new cobblestone-textured cardboard on bases trip report after I do)
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Feb 18, 2014 19:05
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Cross Post from the Oath thread, because I'm damned proud of these guys! The 80th Regimunt of Fut is ready to brave the Deadzone. The whole lot, including the objective crates - so many models they barely fit in my poor homemade light box.  Now for some closeups. The two Ripper suits - Rainmaker and Mauler class. I deliberately left these guys looking shiny to make them look like scuffed up painted metal. in the second row Captain Charred stands happily on his ammo box with his two pet Mauler beasts on either side.  Here we have the rest of the boys. Two Goblin snipers along with a soldier and a pyro in the top rank, with three more soldiers in the bottom.  All painted up like Victorian Redcoats!
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Feb 18, 2014 19:30
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Before I start a conversion project I'm working on, I couldn't remember the rules: does using any third-party bits whatsoever mean I can't use a model at official events or something? Like if I slap a maxmini head on a space marine, etc.? I seem to recall there being some rule in place, but I can't remember if it's "no outside bits at all" or if there's some cutoff. I really have no idea if I'll ever decide to play in an event so it's not a huge deal, but if I decided to down the line it would be a real pain in the rear end to have to buy / paint an entire army over again.
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Feb 18, 2014 19:32
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Pierzak posted:That's why I never search for "plasticard" but HIPS and pay $1 for like three A4 sheets. Unless it's textured as cobblestone or whatever*. For basic plasticard stuff I go to my Friendly Local Mega Mart and hit up their hardware section -- a few FOR SALE signs have worked pretty good for me and they're dirt cheap for a 9 x 12 sheet. Printed on one side, but I usually only have one side showing out and I use the flat side. ~~~~~ One guy in my local gaming group makes all his scratchbuilt stuff out of old GW boxes and sprues, so if anyone calls him out on it he says "these are official GW Parts." I was under the impression that there are no more Official Sanctioned GW Tournaments, so it's up to your local venue / the opponent to bitch about your army not being Pure GW. I am of the opinion "who cares, as long as it looks good." Verdugo fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 19:52
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Pierzak posted:That's why I never search for "plasticard" but HIPS and pay $1 for like three A4 sheets. Unless it's textured as cobblestone or whatever*. What exactly is HIPS? All I keep getting is...well, hips.
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Feb 18, 2014 20:40
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It's High Impact Polystyrene.
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Feb 18, 2014 20:50
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Slimnoid posted:What exactly is HIPS? All I keep getting is...well, hips. Yeah, I looked for HIPS and got some kind of butt enhancing panty insert.
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Feb 18, 2014 20:54
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CyberLord XP posted:Yeah, I looked for HIPS and got some kind of butt enhancing panty insert. I have this problem all the time; turn off safe-search.
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Feb 18, 2014 21:00
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