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To clarify what I said about my RAMPS board, have a picture of it. The cables got really hot and the wires burned up and corroded fast.  I couldn't actually remove those wires from the screw terminals after I took the rest of the stuff off of the board.
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Feb 15, 2014 09:29
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UberVexer posted:To clarify what I said about my RAMPS board, have a picture of it. This generally happens if the wires aren't screwed down tightly enough, or come loose during operation. Depending on where the board was mounted relative to your printer, they could have rattled loose just a little bit. I've had a couple of euroterminal blocks destroy themselves this way.
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Feb 15, 2014 15:03
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Zuph posted:This generally happens if the wires aren't screwed down tightly enough, or come loose during operation. Depending on where the board was mounted relative to your printer, they could have rattled loose just a little bit. I've had a couple of euroterminal blocks destroy themselves this way. Yeah that's exactly what happened, but it didn't rattle loose, what happened was I had the shielding of the cable in the terminal also so when I tightened down onto it I was making solid contact with the insulator and loose contact with the conductor.
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Feb 15, 2014 19:03
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What slicing software is everyone using currently? The new versions of Slic3r seem to not be the most popular anymore and I was thinking about moving to Cura.
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Feb 19, 2014 09:13
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UberVexer posted:What slicing software is everyone using currently? The new versions of Slic3r seem to not be the most popular anymore and I was thinking about moving to Cura. I've been using the latest Cura and it works pretty well but is still glitchy at times (e.g. spiral prints were starting an eight inch off the table, zero-fill wasn't honored, etc). Nothing so drastic that I can't use the software. Slicing is even faster than KISSlicer. That said, I still have to try different slicers to find the best print paths for some models. I wish there was a slicer that behaved more like CAM software wherein it understands what all of the features are, for instance, it knows a hole is a hole with a precise diameter and the system would let you calibrate the settings of that hole separately from the actual model dimensions. I want to have varying fill through areas of a model, varying shell thicknesses, etc. I think this whole STL nonsense is contributing to stagnation of printer development. My gen1 Ultimaker has hardware that is capable of 1-micron/sub-micron accuracy, it is the software that limits our capabilities. Sorry, got carried away. </soapbox>
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Feb 19, 2014 17:57
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kafkasgoldfish posted:
I've been working on modifications for Slic3r that allows for the different infill at different heights of a model, but not like you mention. With all of the new 3d features of Slic3r I think I could probably make some modifications to allow area selection and modification. I've also been designing a printer that ended up looking a lot like the Ultimaker and the Replicator 1 had a baby with dual/quad extruders.
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Feb 19, 2014 19:06
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Which blue tape is used on the bed? Is it just the ScotchBlue painter's tape? Supposedly my 1Up is going to be here soon, I figured I should pick up the extra supplies I'd need for it.
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Feb 27, 2014 05:01
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I use the cheap blue tape you can get for like $2 a roll at Harbor Freight and it sticks almost too well.
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Feb 27, 2014 06:17
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Don't suppose anyone's taking commissions? I'm just looking for a 3-key Bladekey w/o paying $25 for one of the aluminum ones...
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Feb 28, 2014 17:29
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SpiDeR posted:Don't suppose anyone's taking commissions? I'm just looking for a 3-key Bladekey w/o paying $25 for one of the aluminum ones... Check if your local makerspace or library has a 3D printer on hand, that would probably be your best bet if $25 is more than you're looking to pay.
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Feb 28, 2014 18:01
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SpiDeR posted:Don't suppose anyone's taking commissions? I'm just looking for a 3-key Bladekey w/o paying $25 for one of the aluminum ones... One of those shipped continental US for  PayPal, pick a color.
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Mar 2, 2014 23:23
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insta posted:One of those shipped continental US for If you are offering, I am interested in one.
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Mar 3, 2014 02:16
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Anyone who wants a keyring thingy email at my forum name at pingring.org, we'll get it worked out.
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Mar 3, 2014 06:12
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I picked up some SainSmart brand light blue ABS http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHKGOE2/, and I'm having a hell of a time getting it to print well on my Solidoodle 3. It doesn't laminate well or extrude consistently at my usual print temperature of 200°C. What are common debugging steps for adjusting to a finicky new roll of plastic?
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Mar 5, 2014 16:52
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Chainclaw posted:I picked up some SainSmart brand light blue ABS http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHKGOE2/, and I'm having a hell of a time getting it to print well on my Solidoodle 3. It doesn't laminate well or extrude consistently at my usual print temperature of 200°C. What are common debugging steps for adjusting to a finicky new roll of plastic? I would try it at 220°C first, I think SainSmart's ABS tends to be higher temperature. AFAIK they also manufacture the 270°C "premium" ABS for Afinia/UP printers.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:19
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Can the Solidoodle hot end safely go up that high? I've seen some FAQs / wikis mention a max temperature of 210, and others mention 220. This FAQ mentions 215, which I'll try tonight http://www.solidoodle.com/faq/. I picked up that plastic because it had Solidoodle in the list of printers in the title.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:25
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Chainclaw posted:Can the Solidoodle hot end safely go up that high? I've seen some FAQs / wikis mention a max temperature of 210, and others mention 220. This FAQ mentions 215, which I'll try tonight http://www.solidoodle.com/faq/. I picked up that plastic because it had Solidoodle in the list of printers in the title. Oh wow - sorry, my bad. I didn't realize that the Solidoodle had that limitation. Do you have a friend with a different printer who could try it out at a higher temp? Just to eliminate that as the source of the problem?
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Mar 5, 2014 17:54
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Chainclaw posted:Can the Solidoodle hot end safely go up that high? I've seen some FAQs / wikis mention a max temperature of 210, and others mention 220. This FAQ mentions 215, which I'll try tonight http://www.solidoodle.com/faq/. I picked up that plastic because it had Solidoodle in the list of printers in the title. Physically it should be able to get up to 230C, the limitation of 220 is set by the firmware, and I'd image you could change the firmware on the printer... unless they are the worst people.
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Mar 5, 2014 19:37
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Thanks.
Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Mar 6, 2014 |
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Mar 6, 2014 01:40
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Orange_Lazarus posted:Anyway, the product I work with is rated up to 100psi (water) so I want to know if there is plastic that can resist cracking/breaking under freezing temperatures and take that amount of pressure. I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, so the answer is somewhere between "probably" and "no". If you're asking if there's a plastic that is water safe, and if exposed to freezing temperatures, will not explode the next time it is pressurized, the answer is probably, and a mechanical engineer could tell you more. If you're asking "is there a plastic water pipe that won't burst if frozen while full of water" the answer is no. Water expands when it freezes, and through a variety of mechanisms this causes the internal pipe pressure to spike and rupture.
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Mar 6, 2014 04:22
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Orange_Lazarus posted:This is probably the wrong (unrelated to 3d printing) thread but my guess is if anyone on SA knows about plastics its you guys. A industrial-revolution-era scientist who I can't remember the name of once filled a cast iron flask full of water, bolted on the lid, welded along the seam to seal it, and put it outside in the snow to freeze. Later that night the flask exploded. So I agree with the above poster -- yes, you can find plastics that will maintain their strength when cold and will not crack under 100psi when at a sub-zero temperature. No, you cannot really design a plastic pipe that can be filled with water, sealed and then frozen without cracking. It's kind of funny that you're concerned about the plastic being able to withstand a 100psi running water pressure when the expanding ice exerts a force of tens of thousands of pounds per square inch. Also, glass-filled nylon is one of the toughest plastics you can get, and if the part is made of that I guarantee it's not being designed to fail. Water is just a hell of a thing.
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Mar 6, 2014 04:59
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Haha, that makes so much sense. Thanks. I should have looked into how much pressure water exerts when it expands before I even asked. Now I feel like an rear end in a top hat.
Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Mar 6, 2014 |
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Mar 6, 2014 16:09
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Some plastics will expand under the pressure, though, and then (more or less) return to shape when the water thaws. Isn't that how pex handles freezing water?
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Mar 6, 2014 16:38
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I have an original plastic piece, but it's mostly curved stuff, no flat edges that I could model ahead of time on the computer. Is there a service I can send it to, to be scanned and get back the file to make copies/prints of? Total size is about 3x4" x 1.75", 2-5mm thick and concave Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Mar 8, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 08:16
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I don't know about professional services, but a LOT of progress has been made in the area of 3D-scanning via video camera. Like, you put the object on a turntable, and the software takes a bunch of pictures of it as you turn it, and is able to produce a 3D model based on some crazy faux-stereoscopic interpolative voodoo-centric black mathgic. Some googling around might reveal some open source projects in that area that you could make use of. Even if they don't produce a perfect model, it might give you something you could just do a little cleanup on. I bet there's also something similar using the xbox kinect sensor.
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Mar 8, 2014 15:42
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Sheeeeeit we were doing that back when Oblivion came out to take pictures of our faces and import them directly into the game. There was a little 5MB utility and everything.
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Mar 8, 2014 16:05
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Geirskogul posted:Sheeeeeit we were doing that back when Oblivion came out to take pictures of our faces and import them directly into the game. There was a little 5MB utility and everything. That's pretty different though, wasn't that just taking a picture and mapping it onto a 3D model? This is deriving the model itself from a series of pictures. e: Like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brkHE517vpo
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Mar 8, 2014 16:08
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Bad Munki posted:That's pretty different though, wasn't that just taking a picture and mapping it onto a 3D model? This is deriving the model itself from a series of pictures. No, it was like the video, but less advanced. You took 3 (or 5 or 7) pictures of a face from different angles against a white background, and it gave you parameters to put into the game facial sliders so the shape matched the shape of your real head; cheekbones, brow, jaw, etc. There wasn't a way initially to even import your picture without a mod. It was uncannily similar.
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Mar 8, 2014 17:34
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Huh, I don't remember that. In any event, I'm sure it's more advanced and robust now (like in that video, it was doing some great real-time stuff), and surely there are free solutions out there for exactly that. Definitely has to be the cheapest and most-accessible 3D scanning solution.
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Mar 8, 2014 17:36
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You can upload a bunch of pictures to Autodesk 123D Catch and have the "cloud" turn them into a 3D model. I think it's still free.
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Mar 8, 2014 17:38
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Oh, awesome. I wasn't even looking for such a thing and I'm excited about that, that's cool.
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Mar 8, 2014 18:04
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If you've got a 360 Kinect and some patience you can make a scanner out of it. There was a lot of work done in that realm in 2011. It was the hit of NY Maker Faire that year.
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Mar 8, 2014 18:48
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UberVexer posted:If you've got a 360 Kinect and some patience you can make a scanner out of it. There was a lot of work done in that realm in 2011. The issue with that is that all those assholes took their software closed source once they got a sniff of money and sell it for $500+ now.
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Mar 8, 2014 19:00
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Obsurveyor posted:The issue with that is that all those assholes took their software closed source once they got a sniff of money and sell it for $500+ now. There are less expensive packages for 3D scanning with the Kinect. ReconstructMe and Skanect are both cheaper than that, for example.
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Mar 8, 2014 19:25
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Obsurveyor posted:The issue with that is that all those assholes took their software closed source once they got a sniff of money and sell it for $500+ now. I didn't know that everyone took their stuff closed source in that realm. techknight posted:There are less expensive packages for 3D scanning with the Kinect. ReconstructMe and Skanect are both cheaper than that, for example. There used to be free packages that did this.
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Mar 8, 2014 22:24
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Hadlock posted:I have an original plastic piece, but it's mostly curved stuff, no flat edges that I could model ahead of time on the computer. I don't think you're going to be able to replicate this using a cell phone camera or a Kinect. I think your best bet is to take a bunch of reference pictures, a ton of measurements, and recreate it in a 3D program from that.
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Mar 9, 2014 00:22
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UberVexer posted:There used to be free packages that did this. Hmm.. The only free and open source one I know of was CocoaKinect, and that one couldn't do an object all the way around (like a static scene single surface kind of thing).. If you can name some that worked like the commercial stuff does I'd love to dig up the old versions.
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Mar 9, 2014 00:29
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I just need one thing scanned once. Can I send it to someone, and they will send me the raw file(s) for me to adjust manually?
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Mar 9, 2014 02:22
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The multi photo 3d scanning is called photogrammetry and it has been around since the mid 19th century. It's how they did bullet time for The Matrix. The smithsonian covered it well and had a nice 80 camera setup at their x3d conference a couple of months ago. I highly recommend anyone interested in 3d tech to check out the conference videos on YouTube. http://3d.si.edu/conference/index.html
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Mar 9, 2014 02:25
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I have now changed my Mendel from gen6 electronics to RAMPS 1.4. The experience was relatively painless until now, I have run into a problem with my opto endstops. The little indicator LED on the optoboards seems to indicate they are functioning properly, always on then turning off when triggered. But RAMPS doesn't seem to be getting this signal, typing M119 into pronterface I will get all endstops reporting as open, even when the optos have been triggered. Inverting how the optos work in configuration.h will then change the endstop status to all being triggered. I'm pretty confident I have wired them up properly, v+, G and S all seem to going to the correct pins, so I'm leaning towards it being a firmware problem. But after a few hours of playing around I'm all out of ideas of what to do.
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Mar 13, 2014 06:28
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