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Captain Foxy posted:Uh if your room has a hot spot of 85-88 and a cool side of 70-75 maybe, but otherwise no, room temps are not okay for corns; who told you that? They do need some sort of basking zone, whether through light or heat pad, and that's gotta be regulated by a rheostat, no way around it. A thermal gradient is preferred but constant temps in the mid-to-high 70s will work with corns and most kings. I know breeders that just heat the room rather than 50+ cages.
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Jan 28, 2014 07:10
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that your snakes are still eating and doing okay Pew, but please get them a heat source asap or there will be issues down the road for sure.
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Yeah that's nice for breeders with 50+ cages, but this is a pet situation, with variable room temps. Plus Pew has other reptiles (right?) and heating the room for corns may not work for others, etc. For the record, at the store we have over 100 colubrids of all sizes and varieties, and we heat the room to 70-72 constantly but we still have them on heat tape to provide a natural basking zone. If we recommended against heating sources and just said room temps, we'd have all kinds of people coming back to us with dead snakes. It's Oregon, room temps in the normal houses around here are about 60-65. poo poo, even I have my house on constant 71F, but I still provide my colubrids with a heating source to aid in digestion. In Florida, it may be 70F everywhere but in the corns natural environment there'd still be a basking zone of even up to 90F that they can and do make use of. Not having that would increase the risks involved with feeding and there'd be a chance the prey item would rot undigested and kill the snake. Happens frequently in FL when they get cold snaps; my grandpa calls me all the time to tell me how the temps dropped down to 60 and dead snakes start falling out of the trees. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jan 28, 2014 |
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Jan 28, 2014 15:56
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Allright, drat thses hoggies! Both have gone off feed for a while but are super active, and shedding...and both have developed small cysts near their vent, above or to the above side of it. Anyone else dealt with this before? Google ranges from 'it's from an all rodent diet' to 'genetic cysts' to 'squeeze them yourself.' Both are not hard, no pus or blood when I press on them, and the snakes don't seem to notice when I touch them at all. No hissing, no attempt to escape, no biting, etc.
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Feb 1, 2014 19:58
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Went to Baltimore Repticon yesterday to pick up a ton of supplies and meet up with the guy who bought my leachie. Wasn't planning on bringing home any new animals, but.... Oops! Sorry about the stuck shed, I got the majority off when I brought her home and I'll be working on getting the rest off today. I'm in love! Almost came home with a Kenyan Sand Boa too, but managed to resist. I will have some of those puppy-faced buggers one day though.  And in unrelated news, I paired up my cresties for the season and should be pairing up my Hainan cave geckos here in a couple of weeks. What is everyone else breeding this year?
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Feb 2, 2014 21:45
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Cowslips Warren posted:Allright, drat thses hoggies! Both have gone off feed for a while but are super active, and shedding...and both have developed small cysts near their vent, above or to the above side of it. Odd. I haven't seen that with hogs. I'd be inclined to check with a vet, given that both have it. I'm skeptical of the all-rodent diet claim, as keepers have been keeping hogs for decades on all-rodent diets.
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Feb 3, 2014 00:19
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hypnotoad posted:And in unrelated news, I paired up my cresties for the season and should be pairing up my Hainan cave geckos here in a couple of weeks. What is everyone else breeding this year? Too early to pair phelsuma right now but these are shacking up atm.    PM me when/if your Goniurosaurus have hatchlings, I love those guys.
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Feb 3, 2014 17:07
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@Captain: You're right, I have other reptiles and central air so I decided to spring for a heat lamp and made some more humid hides to deal with any crash in humidity. Plus they seem to enjoy lounging around under the heat lamp so that's good.
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Feb 3, 2014 21:25
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My girlfriend got two red eared slider hatchlings for her birthday about two weeks ago (they are like 1 inch across, from Chinatown, so pretty young, also can carry salmonella I read, that's what gloves are for). We bought a 10 gallon aquarium (will get 20 long once I have the time) for them, along with a filter, water heater, basking dock, basking lamp, and a UVB lamp. One of them has been really active since we got him and already learned to beg for food. We've been feeding them ZooMed hatchling pellets which it says are 43% protein. We also tried some live ghost shrimp and thawed crickets but they didn't go for them. For the past few days though, one of them hasn't eaten. He hides a lot and seems to be limp when he sleeps/basks (and he sleeps/basks a lot - he's much less active than the other, healthier one). He goes into periods when he just kind of passes out and isn't super responsive to anything. When he swims he kind of wobbles from one side to the other. I looked up to see if he was sick or not, and other than the wobbling and lethargy he doesn't seem to have any symptoms of being sick, but I'm not sure if that'd be a symptom of a baby turtle having not eaten for nearly a week and not illness. Is there anything I can do to try to treat the sick/weak hatchling, and is there a chance he could get my other one sick? I already bought antibiotics (the tea tree oil one you add to the water once a day) and I've been changing out about 20% of the water every day to keep the quality high (and adding ReptiSafe water conditioner of course). I don't know what else I can do other than wait and see. Any RES owners here have some advice?
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Feb 7, 2014 04:10
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Dracneir posted:My girlfriend got two red eared slider hatchlings for her birthday about two weeks ago (they are like 1 inch across, from Chinatown, so pretty young, also can carry salmonella I read, that's what gloves are for). We bought a 10 gallon aquarium (will get 20 long once I have the time) for them, along with a filter, water heater, basking dock, basking lamp, and a UVB lamp. One of them has been really active since we got him and already learned to beg for food. We've been feeding them ZooMed hatchling pellets which it says are 43% protein. We also tried some live ghost shrimp and thawed crickets but they didn't go for them. Do you notice any wheezing sounds, bubbles from the nose, etc? Sounds to me like it could be some sort of infection. Maybe try dry docking for a few days to raise it's body temp to fight the possible infection. Also, you seem pretty knowledgeable about aquatic turtle care already (most arent, especially new RES owners) which is awesome but I have to ask about your filter size. A lot of people don't know the rule about turtles needing twice the filtration per gallon that fish do (10 gallons of water, 20 gallon filter). Water temp should also be high 70s to low 80s for hatchlings, lowering to mid 70s as they grow. If you haven't already, join turtleforum.com and post a thread in the emergency care section. The people there know a TON and almost seem frantic to give out advice.
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Feb 7, 2014 16:55
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While hatchlings need to eat a bit more than older turtles, not eating the first week isn't highly unusual. The wobbling could be indicative of respiratory infection - the lungs fill with fluid, affecting their buoyancy and making them list to one side - But as the poster before me said, you would probably also be seeing wheezing/bubble blowing. Additionally, hatchlings sold in all the china towns throughout the world are kept in pretty bleak conditions and frequently succumb to a condition known as 'failure to thrive' despite the level of care their new owner provides for them. Do what you can for him, find a good herp vet, but if he passes, don't be too hard on yourself. Also, I wouldn't bother getting a 20 long. I know it's a matter of preference, but I don't get upgrading tanks over and over throughout an animal's life. Two RES will eventually need a seriously huge tank. Its a big investment buying a 125 gallon, but ultimately cheaper than buying a 20, then a 40, and so on. At the least, go a bit bigger than a 20 for the next tank - They will outgrow it pretty quickly. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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Feb 7, 2014 17:12
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Thanks for the replies. I don't really have anything to dry dock the little guy with (save maybe putting him in some tupperware directly under the basking lamp) but the water temp is at 78 from the heater I bought. As far as a filter the tank is maybe half full, with a 10 gallon filter. However the filter blows. The water became kind of gross after a week. After that I started changing part of it every other day or so. That's kept it very clear and not smelly until I get a better filter. I don't notice any excessive bubbles and he's too small to hear any wheezing. He does blow bubbles sometimes, but so does the other one (the healthy one does it less often though). I figured it was just them exhaling. The little guy was floating mostly limp (surfacing his head to breathe) when I left to work this morning. It's been about a week since I saw him eat so I can't imagine he has very long left. He has been 'off' since we got him though. Maybe he was sick already, or will just fail to thrive. I'll try posting at that turtle forum and dry docking him in tupperware when I get home tonight, but based on how little he's been moving the past day, I just don't feel like he has very long left. At this point the healthy turtle is actually noticeably bigger.
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Feb 7, 2014 23:47
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Been searching around craigslist for a new tank for our beardie since he's growing at an alarming rate and I stumbled across this: Tiny tank, sawdust, no hide, doesn't look like any UVB lighting  . Pretty though... Just don't think I could swing having two in our apartment.
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Feb 8, 2014 00:10
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My leopard gecko is sick and I am trying to figure out how to proceed. During her last shed, she just seemed to give up. She peeled the skin off her midsection but left it on her head and tail. I did a warm water bath and got as much as I could, but some stuck on her toes. One foot was particularly bad and she has lost a couple toes. I keep a moist moss tupperware hide on her hot side but the weather has been very dry lately, so maybe it wasn't enough. Also, during that time, she developed a bacterial infection on her tail and has a raw spot about the size of a nickel. In addition to this, she became uninterested in food (I feed her a staple of mealworms and supplement with crickets). She is lethargic and will lay with her limbs splayed out and her head resting on something to keep it propped up. I took her to the vet on Wednesday and he said that her liver was very small, indicating what he called a "reversed metabolism" of consuming body fat stores. He said that her posture (splayed limbs and resting her head on stuff) indicates muscular degradation due to this reversed metabolism. He suggested the following: -Force feed baby food to try go get her digestion going - have been doing this for two days and it is going okay -Daily antibiotic administration - going okay -100F hot side and 80F cool side - have this under control -2x daily water soaks, try very hard to get the rest of the skin on her toes off - toe skin has been very difficult to get off! Any suggestions? -Put betadine on the sore spot to help with infection - going fine and it looks like it is getting better I try to combine as many of the things that require handling her into the same session to attempt to reduce stress. She still seems lethargic and has the same splayed out posture. The vet said that if she is going to get better, I should start seeing improvement within a week. Does anyone have experience with the same kind of symptoms? My gut is telling me that she will not get better. I am thinking that if I do not see improvement within a week, I will have her euthanized. I feel horrible for stressing her out with the force feeding and don't want to drag it out unnecessarily. I am feeling really torn up about the whole thing. I didn't think that I would feel this sad about a lizard, but I do.
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Feb 8, 2014 00:30
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I had one with the same kind of issues, used this stuff from Flukers: http://www.petstore.com/flukers-reptaboost-insectivore-carnivore-emergency-high-amp-boost-50-grams Get it semi liquid and use the syringe to drip near her mouth while she licks it off. It isn't as hard as force feeding because for her it's more just like licking off drips. If she opened wide I'd try to get a good squirt in, but for the most part it was drip and lick for as long as I could get her to keep going. It was a long hard process every day, but after about a week she started to perk up and within 2 weeks was eating normally again. She was really bad at toes too. I would dampen down a paper towel, try to use it to moisten it the best I could and then gently pull with tweezers. Didn't like it much, but beats loosing more toes Good luck!
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Feb 8, 2014 02:36
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Mistegirl posted:I had one with the same kind of issues, used this stuff from Flukers: http://www.petstore.com/flukers-reptaboost-insectivore-carnivore-emergency-high-amp-boost-50-grams Thank you. I will look for the Flukers stuff or something similar. I will also try your paper towel method for the toe skin. I appreciate your help!
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Feb 8, 2014 04:51
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Dracneir posted:Thanks for the replies. I don't really have anything to dry dock the little guy with (save maybe putting him in some tupperware directly under the basking lamp) but the water temp is at 78 from the heater I bought. As far as a filter the tank is maybe half full, with a 10 gallon filter. However the filter blows. The water became kind of gross after a week. After that I started changing part of it every other day or so. That's kept it very clear and not smelly until I get a better filter. Yeah it sounds like the poor little guy is on his way out . I had a little slider thrown into my lap in similar condition when I was too poor to even buy a $20 filter and it acted the same way before it passed. So when my musk turtle also landed in my lap months later I vowed to do better.I would look into a better filter ASAP, but in the mean time you're doing the right thing with frequent water changes, and it's really heartening that you're putting in the effort with the little guys. Take a look at a Tetra Whisper internal filter rated for 20 or 30 gallons. They are fairly cheap and do the job. I had two running in my 40 gallon until I upgraded to a 66 gallon canister.
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Feb 8, 2014 19:30
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Went to Petco today to look at tanks.. I think I am going to go with a 40 gallon breeder once they have their $1/gallon sale. I was able to talk the tank down to $60 without the sale but that's a bit high since I'd have to get a stand too. It looked really big and like it would last me a few years. I don't have the space right now for anything bigger. They said they had a stand for it on manager's sale for $40 but turned out it had already been sold. Everything comparable I've been able to find is over $100... are there any good websites that sell stands for cheaper? Metal is fine, as long as it holds the tank safely. In other news, the sick little guy was spotted eating 1 pellet today. It's the first time I've seen him eat in over a week. He's still very skittish and swims straight into the glass when spooked, but I'm happy he ate. He's still weirder than the other one, though. I'll probably pick up the new tank in a few weeks, once I can work out where to put it and what stand to get. I looked at Tetra Whisper filters too, and I'm guessing I'd want the one rated for 55-70 gallons if I have a 40 gallon tank that's maybe 50-60% full - I want to put the water level higher, and get a floating dock.
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Feb 10, 2014 03:45
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Wish me luck, I'm now training to work with the venemoid animals in the museum. That includes our king cobra, black mamba, gaboon viper and massive eastern diamondback.  Photon thinks very little of me, regardless. Actually he seems to like me about as much as any chameleon will like anything. He comes right out for handfeeding and that's pretty much the only way he eats now (after months of refusing to even look at the prey if anyone was in the room). I haven't ever really spent time handling him, but he'll let me get away with it, whereas he's bitten Pardalis a few times. He's calmed into a really pleasant animal to work with.   
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Feb 13, 2014 06:16
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God I want one so bad, but would never, ever, ever be able to properly care for it
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Feb 13, 2014 06:38
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He's so nifty.  The second picture he looks especially judgmental and critical of you. Has anyone bought from http://www.glasscages.com/ before? Specifically Canadian goons, or goons in more remote areas? I'm curious about their shipping costs and their quality. I'm looking at their 48 x 18 x 17 or 48 x 24 x 17 acrylic sliding door tanks for my blue tongue skink. I noticed another person with a skink on Youtube had one of the acrylic tanks and it seemed perfect for him, but I'm also curious about the shipping. There's nothing affordable in my area on Kijiji, and the ones that are never reply to my emails, so if I'm going to splurge it might as well be something nicer and not used. I know it's not the worst but the longer he stays in this tank the worse I feel. There's barely enough room for him to burrow with his necessary cage accessories (His basking rock, water bowl and cave on the cool side) and most other caves that he'd fit into probably wouldn't fit in with the width of the cage. It's presently 48 x 12 x 18, and Mr. S is about 18". Despite the size of his cage though he seems pretty happy, though he's my first reptile and I'm not too sure what to look for in a stressed animal. He's fairly active and has tons of personality, and I think if he were overly stressed that wouldn't be showing. Here's my little buddy enjoying some dinner. I'm wondering if he'd be into salad without being caked in dog food, I haven't attempted giving him any greens undrenched yet haha. His last owner just fed him moistened kibble so I was kind of expecting a picky dude but he seems to be the opposite. 
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Feb 13, 2014 17:08
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And in the monthly drag through the local craigslist, I found this gem of event planning: What could EVER go wrong with an event where animals that can't produce their own body heat are sold in an area experiencing one of the coldest winters in recent history? vv Good point. I just figured a show would plan better than the middle of winter, as opposed to big box pet stores that don't seem to care nearly as much about the animals. pointlessone fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Feb 14, 2014 |
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Feb 14, 2014 10:20
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I'd be more worried about petcos and petsmarts in that area getting live shipments (of anything) than I would be about a reptile show.
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Feb 14, 2014 16:24
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Winter shows can be important for people that rely on selling animals through the mail, too, since you often can't ship in winter. I know I've had some financial difficulties since I'm relying more and more on amphibian sales and haven't been able to sell much in December and January. I don't have enough animals/variety to justify vending at a show until I raise my next batch of salamanders this spring, though. If you pack your animals in coolers or styrofoam suitable for shipping, the short trip to the door wouldn't be a big concern for me. Buy a bunch of cheap stryofoam coolers at the grocery store before the show and you've got something that customers could keep their animals in for the ride home, too - they can work things out by having someone warm the car up and bring it around to pick them up, etc., too. You just need to be creative - vendors aren't going to risk hundreds or thousands of dollars in animals unnecessarily, and if vendors can do it with lots of animals, customers can, too.
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Feb 14, 2014 21:02
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Yeah as long as that show isn't in the parking lot there is literally nothing wrong with that event being in the wintertime.
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Feb 15, 2014 04:52
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So Repticon had a show in Knoxville today, and I went to check it out and accidentally bought a thing: Its a bit of nostalgia for me, since I grew up in West Texas, but I'm really excited!
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Feb 15, 2014 20:01
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Dreqqus posted:So Repticon had a show in Knoxville today, and I went to check it out and accidentally bought a thing: Is s/he from Cahaba River Reptiles? Welcome to the picky eater little poo poo snake club, though. :v Hoggies are adorable, even if they are a pain in the rear end. On that note, my little Ouro hasn't eaten since the first (only) time he ate for me since I got him on Nov 2nd (he ate on Christmas eve). I tried to feed him last night and got really excited when I glanced over to see him with the pinky in his mouth. He carried it around for about 10 minutes, and then spit it out and went back into his water dish. Damnit you little poo poo, stop playing and eat you food.
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Feb 15, 2014 20:38
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It was from a group called Morph Graphics. I actually kept several different snakes a while back. The only picky eater I had was an olive/yellow Amazon tree boa. I'm probably going to try and feed him Tuesday, I'll let you know how it goes. Oh he's a yellow phase 100% het for toffee. But I know very little about hoggie genetics so who knows.
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Feb 15, 2014 21:15
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So my beardie is acting a bit strange. He's been slowing getting ready to shed (tail first, then legs, head soon), and a few days ago he ate probably less than 1/4 the crickets he usually does and almost no greens. After he finished his tail he ate a bit more, but wasn't pooping anywhere near as often or as much. He also had what looked like probably vomit in his tank (partially digested greens, a cricket head) 2 days ago but that's the only time that's happened. We've started giving him a bath at least once a day since it seems to calm him, but a few days ago he started acting really aggressive and bit me and has taken to hissing at me when I reach for him (he's usually very happy to be handled. His appetite today was a bit better, eating plenty of crickets and lots of collard greens, but is still acting aggressive. This is probably the roughest shed he's had so far and I'm not sure if his behavior is because of stress or what. I was initially worried that he might be impacted, but he's still very active and isn't showing any other signs. He's about 3 1/2 months old and 12" long, his basking area stays around 105-110 and the cool side is around 75 degrees. This is our 1st beardie and I just want to make sure we're doing everything right.
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Feb 16, 2014 01:39
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Update on the turtles: they're both alive! Hooray! I bought a 40 gallon breeder and going to have a stand for it arrive soon. In the meantime I am trying to figure out an optimal filter setup. I'm not sure what would be a good brand to get but I want to get an external canister filter (for more aquarium space) and I like the Rena XP3: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3602 What size should I get? Bearing in mind I have two turtles, and the water won't be full, the M rated for 75 gallons/300gph seems like a good fit. I was also looking into getting a sponge pre-filter so I don't have to change the media inside the external filter as much. I've also noticed my current filter isn't super good at getting large particles (due to a small intake) so I thought maybe I should get a second, smaller filter with somewhat larger intakes to be able to pick those up. What do you guys think? Sort of related: Walter and Jesse (these are their names now) are like 1 inch tail-to-head. Would a larger filter like the Rena XP3 have strong enough suction for them to be at risk of getting stuck on the filter?
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Feb 16, 2014 09:10
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Dracneir posted:Update on the turtles: they're both alive! Hooray! As far as larger particles go, I have always just netted or siphoned them out manually. My softshell seems remarkably clean by turtle standards though, so it's zero hassle for me.
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Feb 16, 2014 16:31
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Dracneir posted:I like the Rena XP3: I would go for the XP M, 75 gallons is more than enough for the amount of water you'll be using in the 40 gallon. As Slugworth said, just put a course sponge pre-filter on the intake and you'll be good to go as far as turtle safety is concerned. Not only is it safer for your turtle, but the course sponge is yet another place for beneficial bacteria to build up, and it will keep larger chunks of debris from clogging up your filter.
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Feb 17, 2014 16:08
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I have a quick question about my ball python. She's in a 40G breeder tank at the moment. For now her length is still about a foot or so less than the length of he tank so I assume she's fine, especially since I take her out and let her roam while I watch her for about an hour a day (she always goes to the same box under my bed to chill) so she can stretch out for a bit. My question is what size tank/custom built enclosure should I need when she is her full size? I'm willing to build something quite large for her if necessary.
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Feb 17, 2014 18:44
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A 40g is completely fine for an adult ball. More space is always an option, but you're fine with that as it is. For an animal like a ball, that is almost entirely immobile when they're content, a 40g is plenty of space.
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Feb 18, 2014 00:44
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Hognose status update: Just tried to feed him for the first time, and he wolfed it right down like a champ!
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Feb 18, 2014 22:01
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It's been 6 months since I got my Common Musk Turtle, so how're we doin'.... Looks good, lots of waddling room.  Wanted a pic of the fish, but ok.  Yes I see you!  Ok Stinky go home, you're drunk.
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Feb 19, 2014 21:37
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WTF BEES posted:
It took me a moment to notice his face in the corner and then I laughed. The tank setup is nice, also. Haha he seems so pleased to see you?
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Feb 20, 2014 08:24
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That's a beautiful set up. Musk turts are so loving cute.
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Feb 21, 2014 03:05
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Quick question: At that show this past weekend I also got two ball pythons(this is addictive and I couldn't help it). They're babies and I have them set up in 15 qt sterilite tubs, with UTH and thermostat. My temperatures are showing in the around 87-90 on the hot side and 80 on the cool side, sometimes dropping into the upper 70s at night. My question is this: One of them, the male has settled in really well, I see him occasionally switching from warm to cool side, but other than that hes hidden and out of sight. The female on the other hand is out and jamming around all the time, the temps are set the same and she has hides on the warm and cool end. Shes just constantly out and in motion testing the edges of the tub and rooting around in the substrate(aspen). To complicate matters a bit, she wouldn't eat when the other two(ball and hoggie) did on Tuesday. Should I be concerned or just chalk it up to 'active snake' and leave things be for now?
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Feb 21, 2014 14:17
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Dreqqus posted:Quick question: At that show this past weekend I also got two ball pythons(this is addictive and I couldn't help it). They're babies and I have them set up in 15 qt sterilite tubs, with UTH and thermostat. My temperatures are showing in the around 87-90 on the hot side and 80 on the cool side, sometimes dropping into the upper 70s at night. My question is this: One of them, the male has settled in really well, I see him occasionally switching from warm to cool side, but other than that hes hidden and out of sight. The female on the other hand is out and jamming around all the time, the temps are set the same and she has hides on the warm and cool end. Shes just constantly out and in motion testing the edges of the tub and rooting around in the substrate(aspen). To complicate matters a bit, she wouldn't eat when the other two(ball and hoggie) did on Tuesday. Should I be concerned or just chalk it up to 'active snake' and leave things be for now? As Foxy told me, Balls are pretty much completely motionless when they're content. I know that mine tends to get restless when she's hungry, but other than that she's fine. What is their humidity at?
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Feb 21, 2014 22:17
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Humidity is sitting around 55-60%, not sure what might be going on.
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Feb 22, 2014 01:38
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