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Sockington posted:Yeah, I've already cranked it down quite a bit for the little home practice I've been using it on. bah, really wishing I had jumped on MF stupid deal of the day thing, my lead singer is going to be playing guitar on several new tracks and we don't have an amp for her. I think for now I'll run her through my interface and back out to the PA, but it sure would have been nice to have that amp 
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Feb 5, 2014 09:22
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iostream.h posted:No worries man, if it wouldn't upset you, I may go forward with it a bit. I mocked up a mount in the studio and I have some ideas, I'll keep you looped in with whatever happens? Go for it. And by stereo bar, I mean this:  They are indispensable.
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Feb 6, 2014 04:31
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Kilometers Davis posted:I think there's a mindset with a lot musicians where noon = flat = neutral and that's not how things work. I've always been like that but now I'm beginning to trust my ears and understand how everything works together. I was thinking about it recently and I would assume most tone controls on amplifiers are passive. So the 'flat' unmodified tone would actually be with everything maxed out so that the signal is being passed right through, and anything you do with the knobs is just decreasing the volume of that frequency range. Really changed how I EQ amps - start with everything dimed and go from there.
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Feb 6, 2014 15:21
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Cmdr. Shepard posted:I've only ever used solid state amps, I've owned everything from 15 watt Fender practice amps to Crate half-stacks. Currently I use a Peavey Bandit 112 and a Fender Frontman 212r. I have to say that I've never really truly been happy with the sound I get when trying to record guitars. See if you can find a blackstar HT series.
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Feb 6, 2014 16:20
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Yeah tone controls are all different, sometimes full is flat, sometimes all the way down, sometimes like 2/3rds. Often it's even different between the low/high on the same piece of gear. Its totally worth reading up on different kinds of oft used tone circuits (baxandall, muff etc). For example, these images show the response vox tone circuit with both knobs down, then at 12 o clock, then at full - not exactly what you would imagine. The software I used to make this is here http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/ and worth a look if youre interested in tone circuits. 
field balm fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Feb 6, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 22:29
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  Haha this thing is just stupid.
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Feb 7, 2014 02:13
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iostream.h posted:
How did you not go with purple tolex
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Feb 7, 2014 04:49
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Declan MacManus posted:How did you not go with purple tolex This amp is actually the prototype chassis for the AFD line, it's a wee bit different than the production models in a few ways. We actually discussed a new cabinet for it today, so yes, it WILL have purple tolex (OR neon yellow/chartreuse) in the very near future, along with a few tweaks and additional mods for me.  I'm so stoked, I keep flipping back and forth between all three of those heads, just spazzing out on comparing them and goofing on the sound. GLORIOUS. Plus, picked up a Carvin 4x10 as well, out of a desire to experiment with a more punchy, middy sound (a recommendation from a close friend) and so far, with the SLO through the 10's, it's NUTS and a lot of fun. Oh, and the Jubilee is fine, out of the ER with a clean bill of health and a full compliment of new tubes and 'something' he did, that I'm not sure of yet. Edit: Oh, and he mentioned today that he's had a couple of interesting calls and emails over the past few days from people who said they'd heard about him on 'an internet forum', if that's you guys he said that he's enjoyed the conversation and questions and thanks for the interest. Was it one of you guys who asked about his choice of impedance for his speaker cabs? iostream.h fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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Feb 7, 2014 06:18
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So I'm in a conundrum. I need a higher wattage amp than my princeton reverb for my pedal steel. I have the opportunity to pickup a either a Peavey Duece for a stupidly low price $175, or a beat to hell twin for around $400. The twin is totally beat to poo poo, it has weird Marshall speakers in it and would probably need to be retubed, recapped, and re-speakered to be usable to me. So what would be ballpark price on retubing and recapping a twin? I know what speakers I would throw in and it'd be about $180 for both. The Deuce is really clean, only issue is a bad speaker cable, and would be totally cake to replace. What would you do if you were me?
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Feb 10, 2014 22:04
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HollisBrown posted:So I'm in a conundrum. I need a higher wattage amp than my princeton reverb for my pedal steel. I have the opportunity to pickup a either a Peavey Duece for a stupidly low price $175, or a beat to hell twin for around $400. The twin is totally beat to poo poo, it has weird Marshall speakers in it and would probably need to be retubed, recapped, and re-speakered to be usable to me. If you like how the Deuce sounds I would go for it. The price is great and the twin sounds like a complete pain in the rear end to me. To be fair though I avoid used gear unless it's in good shape so there's that. If I was in your position and wanted the twin I'd prefer to be patient and look for one in better shape and more of a buy and play deal.
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Feb 10, 2014 22:36
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What year is the Twin? $400 for the right Twin is a good price. $400 for the wrong Twin (or in this case, one that needs $400 worth of labor and parts) is probably not great.
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Feb 10, 2014 23:32
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jwh posted:What year is the Twin? $400 for the right Twin is a good price. $400 for the wrong Twin (or in this case, one that needs $400 worth of labor and parts) is probably not great.
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Feb 11, 2014 00:04
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I had a Twin for a little while. They are very heavy. If you're going to gig with it, you want a car that you can load it straight in and out of, not, say, trying to put it in the back seat of a 2-door coupe.
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Feb 11, 2014 00:18
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HollisBrown posted:So I'm in a conundrum. I need a higher wattage amp than my princeton reverb for my pedal steel. I have the opportunity to pickup a either a Peavey Duece for a stupidly low price $175, or a beat to hell twin for around $400. The twin is totally beat to poo poo, it has weird Marshall speakers in it and would probably need to be retubed, recapped, and re-speakered to be usable to me. I would get the Deuce and not look back.
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Feb 11, 2014 00:40
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Unless it's like an early '60s twin there's no way in hell I'd pay $400 for a twin that probably needs more than $400 worth of work done to it. And Peavey Deuces sound good, so why not? I mean just read this manual  Take a deuce
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Feb 11, 2014 00:45
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jwh posted:What year is the Twin? $400 for the right Twin is a good price. $400 for the wrong Twin (or in this case, one that needs $400 worth of labor and parts) is probably not great. I'm not sure, I think late 70's, master volume. After reading what I wrote I feel silly having asked the question. I was messing around with the deuce today and they sound pretty drat good. It's just soooo ugly.
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Feb 11, 2014 01:18
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HollisBrown posted:I'm not sure, I think late 70's, master volume. The price guide has mid to late '70s Twins at between $700 and $1,200 in good condition, but I still think that's too much money. I paid $500 for an early '80s Twin a few years ago (UL transformer). Then again, everything is getting more expensive, and they're not making any more of them. I think Twins are arguably the best stage volume clean platforms available for the money.
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Feb 11, 2014 20:50
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Speaking of Peavey amps, this bad boy just showed up on my local Craigslist: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/msg/4295220717.html I do not play guitar, but I have been trying to do tube amp repair for my friends. Would this be a decent critter on which to learn the magic of electron manipulation? I figure at only $200 it would be a good place to begin.
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Feb 13, 2014 00:31
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scuz posted:Speaking of Peavey amps, this bad boy just showed up on my local Craigslist: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/msg/4295220717.html they are pretty solid amps and 200 for a working tube dude is about as low as it gets esp one with some bite.
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Feb 13, 2014 03:19
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If I'm in a situation where I can't crank my amp, would getting a separate solid state power amp to throw in the effects loop output be a usable idea?
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Feb 13, 2014 15:36
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Boz0r posted:If I'm in a situation where I can't crank my amp, would getting a separate solid state power amp to throw in the effects loop output be a usable idea? I don't see this as sounding any better than just keeping the volume low, and you'd still need a speaker plugged into the amp's output since there would still be a load on it.
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Feb 13, 2014 17:45
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Boz0r posted:If I'm in a situation where I can't crank my amp, would getting a separate solid state power amp to throw in the effects loop output be a usable idea? Not really. I'd recommend an attenuator or if you're super broke just throw something with a volume knob in the effects loop (volume pedal, overdrive pedal, etc.). Really, though, that's just a second master volume.
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Feb 13, 2014 17:53
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I just dug up my old Fender 25. Thinking about giving it to my old school. Are these still considered generally decent amps for casual jamming? They were when I got it at a flea market for like 25 bucks but it's been a long time since I bought amps.
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Feb 14, 2014 01:47
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What could be causing my amp to hiss? It's a 70's "Kingston" Solid State. It's a total piece of poo poo but works pretty well for a practice amp. The problem is that it has a hiss completely independent of any instrument plugged in. It's not 60 cycle, it's a broadband hiss that doesn't change with the volume of the amp.
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Feb 15, 2014 23:26
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I have a Garnet Pro 200 Super LB200S and just last week I found out that the master volume knob pulls out to boost the gain a whole bunch. Well, when I tried last week to pull it out, it did nothing. Last night at jam I got fed up with it and rammed it back and forth a bunch of times to see if it would fix it... And it did! Must've just been because it was old. Anyway, here's the rough mix of one of the songs we jammed if anyone wants to hear what fifty Canadian watts of 1970s all-tube power sounds like.
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Feb 16, 2014 07:14
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Also continuing work on the swiveling mic clamp slide arms: The essentials are done up in vector, with a layer I sketched in overtop as a hypothetical cable management system that could be worked right into the design. Kind of makes it look like a centipede or  or something.Edit: I need to source the knurled 3/8 thumb screws I intend to use before I settle in the size of the inner channel though. 
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 17, 2014 |
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Feb 17, 2014 05:50
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Handen posted:Edit: I need to source the knurled 3/8 thumb screws I intend to use before I settle in the size of the inner channel though.
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Feb 17, 2014 07:49
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HollisBrown posted:What could be causing my amp to hiss? It's a 70's "Kingston" Solid State. It's a total piece of poo poo but works pretty well for a practice amp. The problem is that it has a hiss completely independent of any instrument plugged in. It's not 60 cycle, it's a broadband hiss that doesn't change with the volume of the amp. Does it have a reverb channel? Does it change with moving the reverb or any other control? Tried different power outlets?
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Feb 17, 2014 23:23
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Posted in this thread before about the Kelly head I managed to pick up in a junk shop, but I realised I never shared it in all its vintage glory.
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Feb 20, 2014 02:59
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After some testing the speaker to my Hot Rod is shot. Anyone got any cheap-ish options? I'm actually looking for more of a vox like clean tone.
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Feb 21, 2014 02:39
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Noise Machine posted:After some testing the speaker to my Hot Rod is shot. Anyone got any cheap-ish options? I'm actually looking for more of a vox like clean tone. You could get the speaker repaired... and possibly change its tone in the process!
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Feb 21, 2014 03:13
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Noise Machine posted:After some testing the speaker to my Hot Rod is shot. Anyone got any cheap-ish options? I'm actually looking for more of a vox like clean tone.
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Feb 21, 2014 04:36
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You won't get a Vox-like tone from your Hot Rod-series amp. Sorry. Get a Celestion V30 and you'll be happier. Cleans up the flubby low-end and makes the drive channel somewhat usable.
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Feb 23, 2014 13:47
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no dad im not gay! posted:You won't get a Vox-like tone from your Hot Rod-series amp. Sorry. Get a Celestion V30 and you'll be happier. Cleans up the flubby low-end and makes the drive channel somewhat usable. Emphasis on somewhat, I really don't know what it is about the damned HRDs that they can't give 'em just a little bit of loving. They can be modded to sound much better. Bleh.
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Feb 23, 2014 15:23
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Agreed posted:Emphasis on somewhat, I really don't know what it is about the damned HRDs that they can't give 'em just a little bit of loving. They can be modded to sound much better. Bleh. Because people buy tons of them and love the poo poo out of them, honestly. In the mid-2000's every MOR alt rock band had a Deluxe or DeVille that they fed pedals into instead of ever touching the dirty channel
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Feb 23, 2014 16:10
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Declan MacManus posted:Because people buy tons of them and love the poo poo out of them, honestly. In the mid-2000's every MOR alt rock band had a Deluxe or DeVille that they fed pedals into instead of ever touching the dirty channel At least they do have a good clean channel. A quick once-over by a competent amp tech can bring a lot out of a HRD, though - both in terms of making the dirt channel actually usable, but also in improving the general responsiveness of the clean channel, replacing the linear pot with a more appropriate taper pot, a little bit of adjustment to the tone stack to help with some flub in the mid-bass frequencies that is amplified (no pun intended) by the speaker choice and construction... I guess there's always the question of "Why do all that to an HRD when you can usually find a Silverface Bassman for about the same price used as an HRD new plus tech work," and that's fair, it's just that the basic idea behind the HRD doesn't suck - it's just the implementation that leaves a lot to be desired. Great clean channel, garbage dirt channel. Which, yeah, makes it a good platform for making pedals loud, but it could be a lot more for not a lot more scratch. I guess Fender would rather you pick up a Deluxe RI or a '65 Twin RI or a Bassman RI in their various configurations and so some segmentation does make sense, but they make solid state amps that have way, way better sounding dirt channels than the HRDs. Hell, their cheap low tube wattage amps that aren't part of the premium lineup often have a better dirt channel than the HRDs. 
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Feb 23, 2014 16:40
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So I bought a acoustic 320 but when I got home to jam with it louder and longer, it kind of jumped and waivered in volume so I turned down but it ended to going back. after practice I checked the fuse and it was 10a instead of 6.5a. could this have made it act weird? of course I am going to replace it but I am just curious of any long term damage I could have caused it? no wire burning smell or anything just more curious of the other components. ninja edit: I ran around looking for a 6.5 couldn't find it so I just plugged in a 3, it works fine - even pushed it a bit. weird. still curious if I coulda caused any long term damage Smash it Smash hit fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 02:40
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Anybody have some love for Reason amplifiers? I just picked up a used Bambino combo on the cheap and I'm in love. Needs a little work, but a little tapping around suggests to me that there's just a solder joint I need to get in there and reflow to keep the Bright channel from cutting out randomly. Hadn't really heard of them, one cropped up in a local shop and...yeah. Won't push into uber-metal gain levels, but will still crank up pretty high and do so at bedroom levels that don't bleed out my ears. Only gripe is the lack of an effects loop, and weird topology suggests I'm going to have to do some fiddly circuit tracing if I wanna mod one in there.
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Feb 24, 2014 07:38
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Agreed posted:At least they do have a good clean channel. A quick once-over by a competent amp tech can bring a lot out of a HRD, though - both in terms of making the dirt channel actually usable, but also in improving the general responsiveness of the clean channel, replacing the linear pot with a more appropriate taper pot, a little bit of adjustment to the tone stack to help with some flub in the mid-bass frequencies that is amplified (no pun intended) by the speaker choice and construction... I tell everybody looking for a Fender amp to just check Craigslist until you find a late 70's ultra-linear Twin. Hot Rod-series amps aren't an amp you take once to a tech and you're done. The power tube sockets need to be touched up with fresh solder every 6 months to however many years, depending on how often you use it and how rough you are on it. I had a Hot Rod DeVille once and I modded it extensively; used a dremel to cut the tube socket boards and wired chassis-mounted tubes, changed the speakers, swapped out all the caps, did every other conceivable mod per the Justin Holt website and it sounded alright, but at the end of the day it's still a modern mass-produced PCB amp. It has inherent limitations.
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Feb 24, 2014 11:12
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Smash it Smash hit posted:I ran around looking for a 6.5 couldn't find it so I just plugged in a 3, it works fine - even pushed it a bit. weird. still curious if I coulda caused any long term damage The fuse is there to sacrifice itself in case an abnormal current is sent across the circuit, and serves no other purpose. If you put in the new fuse and it didn't blow, then you're fine.
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Feb 24, 2014 16:02
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