|
BLARGHLE posted:So this was a pleasant surprise the other night!
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 16:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
ChiTownEddie posted:80% of all of my beers get topped off with water before fermentation. Its a pretty common thing especially for new brewers. Awesome. It just felt so wrong, especially when the concentrated wort smell turned to diluted wort smell.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
I finally got around to unpacking my Brooklyn Brew Shop kit from christmas and fired it up Wednesday. The recipe said to wait 3 days between blowoff and airlocking, but by the end of the day yesterday my beer had already mellowed out, producing hardly any bubbles through the blowoff tube. Is this a normal variable and I should airlock it as normal, or did I do something terrible and kill off my yeast? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 17:36
|
|
|
hellfaucet posted:Please give us the tasting notes on this recipe, it seems like it will be very unique and I'm interested to see how the juniper works with the Nelson Sauvin. Final verdict: Hops are all round spot on, passionfruity/citrusy/whitewiney but none overpowering the other strangely enough. Good mouthfeel, good body, and a dry finish which I'd compare to a gin and tonic dryness. Everyone who has tried it sofar has said it's one of my best yet.  One with Whitelab Burton ale yeast ended up being 8.9%, one with Whitelab Cali I ended up being 9.3%. I'm a bit taken back that on my first try it somehow worked so well. Will post a photo soon of a pint of it for you. In the mean time I got a friend who is an artist and because it is so special he is doing a beer label for me. Draft:  (Some tweaking has been done for the final label eg top will be Bloody Viking, bottom will be Juniper Rye Imperial Red Ale with a blank %abv for me to fill in on future batches with different yeast etc to experiment). Part of the final label sofar from my mate:  Next time I brew it I might try slightly more rye malt... maybe. The hops I ended up using on the day was [for 40liter batch] I reduced the cascade from 100grams to 80grams. Fluo fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Feb 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 17:39
|
|
|
Royal W posted:I finally got around to unpacking my Brooklyn Brew Shop kit from christmas and fired it up Wednesday. The recipe said to wait 3 days between blowoff and airlocking, but by the end of the day yesterday my beer had already mellowed out, producing hardly any bubbles through the blowoff tube. Is this a normal variable and I should airlock it as normal, or did I do something terrible and kill off my yeast? Your yeast is fine. They probably suggested 3 days because you can get tricked and think you're past the danger zone and then krausen comes roaring back and you've got an airlock full of crud. Happened to me on my last brew, fermentation is weird.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 17:55
|
|
|
FYI the Yeast Bay is open for homebrewing orders today: http://www.theyeastbay.com/ I got some Vermont ale and Funktown Pale ale
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 17:55
|
|
|
BLARGHLE posted:Also also, I tried one of your beers tuesday night(whichever one "HA" was), and it was also very thoroughly carbonated. What yeast did you use? I found the taste to be very reminiscent of Franziskaner. I didn't think it was too bad. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Honey Ale. It's the straight up Annapolis Homebrew Honey Ale Kit. HP is the Honey Porter Kit with a lb of D-90 candi syrup added. I think both used Danstar's ale yeast. The added sweetness in the porter threw me off a bit. It was still pretty tasty and i'm not a huge porter fan. Saisons and tripels are still sitting in my closet.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 18:39
|
|
|
Give the tripel at least a few months. Possibly more. I had one last night and it needs a lot of time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 18:50
|
|
|
Ordered Stuffs for my next batch of home brewed Goodness Revolver 60 Minute IPA — 3 Gallon batch 6Lbs 2 Row 1Lb Pilsner Malt 1Lb CaraRed 1 oz Admiral 1 oz Citra 1 oz Cascade Muntons Ale Yeast (don't judge) For the hops I'm going to mix them all up and add them in 30 additions through a 60 minute boil. (Ala Dogfish head 60 minute style).
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 18:59
|
|
|
Thufir posted:Your yeast is fine. They probably suggested 3 days because you can get tricked and think you're past the danger zone and then krausen comes roaring back and you've got an airlock full of crud. Happened to me on my last brew, fermentation is weird. Thanks! So should I let it sit until sunday, or would I be safe throwing on the airlock today? When I checked this morning, I was seeing maybe 1 bubble per minute out of the blowoff. Should I expect a second wave of krausen?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
Royal W posted:Thanks! So should I let it sit until sunday, or would I be safe throwing on the airlock today? When I checked this morning, I was seeing maybe 1 bubble per minute out of the blowoff. Should I expect a second wave of krausen? Blowoff bubble rate isn't a good indicator, take a hydrometer sample.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 19:01
|
|
|
Royal W posted:Thanks! So should I let it sit until sunday, or would I be safe throwing on the airlock today? When I checked this morning, I was seeing maybe 1 bubble per minute out of the blowoff. Should I expect a second wave of krausen? There's not really any harm in leaving the blowoff on for a while so you might as well stick with that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
Jerome Louis posted:FYI the Yeast Bay is open for homebrewing orders today: How fast did the Cona-er, "Vermont Ale" yeast sell out? I didn't know it was becoming easier to obtain in vial form, I have neither the time or patience to try and cull from my Heady cans at this point but I'd like to give a batch a proper go with their yeast at some point.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 20:02
|
|
|
wattershed posted:How fast did the Cona-er, "Vermont Ale" yeast sell out? I didn't know it was becoming easier to obtain in vial form, I have neither the time or patience to try and cull from my Heady cans at this point but I'd like to give a batch a proper go with their yeast at some point. I think pretty quickly, within 20 minutes or so maybe. I just lucked out and saw the Facebook post right when Yeastbay posted they were open for homebrew orders. He's saying they're going to restock soon and since Vermont is by far their most popular item they'll be stocking a ton of it for the next go around.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 20:04
|
|
|
Jerome Louis posted:I think pretty quickly, within 20 minutes or so maybe. I just lucked out and saw the Facebook post right when Yeastbay posted they were open for homebrew orders. He's saying they're going to restock soon and since Vermont is by far their most popular item they'll be stocking a ton of it for the next go around. Might have to give White Labs a visit if they're the ones propagating for The Yeast Bay in the first place. I can't imagine it'll be too long before WL considers selling them in their tasting room directly - would love to avoid a $8 shipping charge for a $10 vial.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 20:07
|
|
|
ieatsoap6 posted:I made this and it came out pretty darn well. Wyeast 3787 being a beast means it got to ~11%, but even at ~6 weeks from brew date it's delicious. Did you add the sugar to the boil or in primary? I know a lot of people tend to add simple sugars at high krausen -- I've always done it in the boil.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 21:15
|
|
|
Thufir posted:There's not really any harm in leaving the blowoff on for a while so you might as well stick with that. I should have checked here before I went and got a hydrometer. Oh well, at least now I have one for next time!  On that note, what kind of readings should I be looking for on the hydrometer? For example, I'm at 1.021 after about 42 hours fermenting, but I have no frame of reference as to what that means. E: re-read the OP, and realized I'm doing the nervous father first-timer to a tee. Maybe I'll go have a beer. Royal W fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Feb 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 21:32
|
|
|
Royal W posted:I should have checked here before I went and got a hydrometer. Oh well, at least now I have one for next time! It depends on a lot of stuff. You should take a reading before you start your fermentation next time. Then you would have an idea of what kind of final gravity you should have. Seems like your beer is doing fine though. From what I understand a blow-off tube is just an alternative to an airlock (I think?), no point in switching to an airlock if you risk having kröjsen blowing it out. I've always been fermenting in a bucket with a lot of headspace. I'm guessing you will finish out at somewhere around 1.010 if you're making a normal beer. Don't sweat it, I made a lot of mistakes on my first brew and it still turned out drinkable. My best tip is to get some starsan dilution into a spray-bottle and loving nuke every piece of equipment used in post-boil stuff  Edit: When the hydrometer reads the same several days in a row the fermentation has stopped. Don't worry about bubbles though. I fermented a 9.5% double ipa, and it bubbled like once an hour after the first 48 hours. Sistergodiva fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Feb 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:14
|
|
|
If you fill your fermented to high the goop/ krausen will flow out the blow-off tube instead of jamming your airlock and creating a... mess...
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:15
|
|
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:If you fill your fermented to high the goop/ krausen will flow out the blow-off tube instead of jamming your airlock and creating a... mess... Yeah, but is there any downside to it compared to an airlock?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:17
|
|
|
Sistergodiva posted:Yeah, but is there any downside to it compared to an airlock? The only time I've tried to rig a blow-off tube, it didn't work and I got beer on my floor. I imagine if theres some insane negative pressue inside the vessel it can suck blowoff water back into your beer but that seems improbable with all the yeast making positive pressure
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:25
|
|
|
Sistergodiva posted:Yeah, but is there any downside to it compared to an airlock? I actually only use blowoff tubes now after one too many times thinking "surely there's enough headspace THIS time! *beer geyser soaks basement yet again 24 hours later*" If you're doing it right, your blowoff rig is actually an airlock anyway. Air can be forced out the tube and bubble up through the sanitizer solution the hose is stuck in, but can't go back toward the carboy. The one thing to watch out for is that if there's a temperature drop, pressure will reverse and suck sanitizer back into your carboy. This happens with standard airlocks too, but the amount of liquid in one is so small it doesn't matter. If your blowoff tube is in a big jar that's really full, you could suck a ton of liquid back in. So just put enough in there to cover the tip of the hose.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:30
|
|
|
I'm probably going to throw the airlock on Sunday anyway. The blowoff I have set up takes up a lot of space and likes to fall out of the sanitizer; So I want to use the airlock so I can stick my fermenter in a nice dark closet while I'm out of town next week and not worry about the hose falling onto the carpet 5 minutes after I leave the house. So far, I'm having a lot of fun with it, though. I'm looking forward to my next batch already; and considering going off a recipe instead of a kit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:42
|
|
|
Royal W posted:I'm probably going to throw the airlock on Sunday anyway. The blowoff I have set up takes up a lot of space and likes to fall out of the sanitizer; So I want to use the airlock so I can stick my fermenter in a nice dark closet while I'm out of town next week and not worry about the hose falling onto the carpet 5 minutes after I leave the house. Yeah once you're past the first 3 days or so and fermentation activity has visibly died off, there's no harm switching back to the smaller airlock.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:46
|
|
|
Sistergodiva posted:Yeah, but is there any downside to it compared to an airlock? Use both. Take the white cap and the thimble-looking piece off the airlock. Coat the post of the airlock in a little vaseline or coconut oil and put a blowoff tube on there, with the other end going into a mason jar containing water. Give it a few days like this, let it pass high krausen, then remove the blowoff tube and use the 3-piece airlock like you normally would. Use lovely vodka as your airlock liquid so if you have a blowback situation at some point you're introducing a sterile liquid to the beer instead of skunky water. Docjowles posted:Yeah once you're past the first 3 days or so and fermentation activity has visibly died off, there's no harm switching back to the smaller airlock. The next time you buy some peanut butter, jelly, etc, save the empty container, drill a hole in the lid to accomodate the size of the tube, and that'll keep the tube from wanting to jump out of the jar. Also consider running a paper clip or something around the tube just underneath the lid to keep it from wanting to retract up through the hole if it continues to be annoying.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 22:57
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:Did you add the sugar to the boil or in primary? I know a lot of people tend to add simple sugars at high krausen -- I've always done it in the boil. I just threw it in with about 15 minutes left in the boil. Would it really make much difference, adding simple sugars at high krausen? It seems like the yeast would eat it all up just the same.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 23:03
|
|
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:The only time I've tried to rig a blow-off tube, it didn't work and I got beer on my floor. I imagine if theres some insane negative pressue inside the vessel it can suck blowoff water back into your beer but that seems improbable with all the yeast making positive pressure I've had liquid suck all the way back up the blowoff tube when I used 1" ID tubing. That only happens if you cold crash, though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 23:04
|
|
|
ieatsoap6 posted:I just threw it in with about 15 minutes left in the boil. Would it really make much difference, adding simple sugars at high krausen? It seems like the yeast would eat it all up just the same. Might be easier for the yeast if it's at least fully dissolved. The hotter the water, the more sugars the water will be able to hold in solution. That's my 2 cents, but yeast should be able to get at it either way.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 23:05
|
|
|
My sour mash lychee lambic is done fermenting. I theifed a taste and it's kind of underwhelming.  Quite tart, the alcohol is very pronounced, and overall it just kinda tastes one dimensional. IDK if it's just not being carbonated, or it still being young but I'm brainstorming ideas to try and inject some life into this brew. It's currently at 1.010.Some things I'm playing around with: adding brett. Maybe clausenii or brux, something to support the fruit flavors. Maybe adding oak to give it some structure. making another beer and blending. This isn't ideal for me, I would rather not have 10 gallons of beer I don't know what to do with. of course, I could also just be overthinking it and carbonating it could just make it miraculously awesome. any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 23:05
|
|
|
ieatsoap6 posted:I just threw it in with about 15 minutes left in the boil. Would it really make much difference, adding simple sugars at high krausen? It seems like the yeast would eat it all up just the same. That's what I've done in the past, too, but I've read that it's better to add it once the yeast are already eating maltose, otherwise they'll eat all the simple sugars first and won't be as good at eating the more complex maltose. Marshmallow Blue posted:Might be easier for the yeast if it's at least fully dissolved. The hotter the water, the more sugars the water will be able to hold in solution. That's my 2 cents, but yeast should be able to get at it either way. Either way, I would boil it first, I wouldn't just dump sugar in the fermenter.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
GrAviTy84 posted:My sour mash lychee lambic is done fermenting. I theifed a taste and it's kind of underwhelming. When it comes to cider the fruit that tastes good to eat makes bland cider, not enough tannin and acid. And the cider apples are terrible for eating but make great ciders. I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing applies to most fruit fermentations to some degree. You could bottle prime just a few bottles to see how it does carbed up. If you've got 10 gallons then you could try a few different things and blend the results too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 00:07
|
|
|
 Two beers, separated only by a day. The one on the left was brewed tuesday, and started vigorous fermentation within 12 hours, and has overflowed and completely clogged the airlock. The one on the right was brewed wednesday, and still has no airlock activity. Similar recipes, similar conditions, the exact same yeast(I made a 1 gallon starter and split it in half)...the only thing I can think is that that extra day may have hosed up the starter in some way. Either way, if it hasn't started up by tomorrow morning, I'm going to try to grab another vial of the burton ale yeast and get it going. Paladine_PSoT posted:I didn't think it was too bad. I didn't think it was bad either, just not what I was expecting. I'm going to give the porter a shot later tonight. BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 22, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 01:02
|
|
|
Marshmallow Blue posted:Might be easier for the yeast if it's at least fully dissolved. The hotter the water, the more sugars the water will be able to hold in solution. That's my 2 cents, but yeast should be able to get at it either way. The usual repeated reasoning (iirc from a Pliny Younger recipe?) is that you want your yeast to grow up on the complex sugars during the initial fermentation and then let them have the simple sugars that they'd otherwise devour first.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 02:21
|
|
|
Is it possible to make my hard apple cyder a bit less dry by using a low attenuation yeast like Windsor or something? I prefer not to have to backsweeten my small batches of 1/2-1 gallons. Using Safale S04 if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 04:49
|
|
|
BLARGHLE posted:
Check the lid. Syrinxx posted:Is it possible to make my hard apple cyder a bit less dry by using a low attenuation yeast like Windsor or something? I prefer not to have to backsweeten my small batches of 1/2-1 gallons. Using Safale S04 if that matters. Not really. Unless you add a boat load of sugar to start with and make the cider unlivable for the yeast it's just going to chew the gently caress out of all those sweet delicious simple sugars. Just straight cider is the chocolate cake to yeast's fat goon - eventually it'll all get eaten. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Feb 22, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
Syrinxx posted:Is it possible to make my hard apple cyder a bit less dry by using a low attenuation yeast like Windsor or something? I prefer not to have to backsweeten my small batches of 1/2-1 gallons. Using Safale S04 if that matters. I found that the cider I made using Wyeast Sweet Mead finished about 0.010 higher than the one I made with Wyeast Dry Mead, where the latter was bone dry.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 05:44
|
|
|
Syrinxx posted:Is it possible to make my hard apple cyder a bit less dry by using a low attenuation yeast like Windsor or something? I prefer not to have to backsweeten my small batches of 1/2-1 gallons. Using Safale S04 if that matters. You have to really load it up with sugar, and like jacobey said, those yeast will eat as much as they possibly can before they quit. I've had some usually low attenuating ale yeasts get up into the 10-12% range trying that(but couldn't get champagne yeast over 16.5%, go figure). Also, you won't be able to properly bottle carbonate if you do it that way. Back sweetening and cold crashing is probably the simplest way to do it, especially with such small batches.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 17:53
|
|
|
smashed by 10 am double brew day gently caress my life a homebrew haiku Running Pacman through a 5th and final generation. Girlfriend is brewing a super IPA that's basically 50/50 2-row/MO. I just got some  3711 back in the house so it's time for a kitchen sink saison. Grain/hop spring cleaning. Can't wait to see what I screw up today!
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 17:56
|
|
|
Sanitation question: Every time I do a search for good cleaners, OxiClean Free can't get enough praise. I used it in my last batch for good effect, but I get the feeling it's a lot more available in the States than it is here (Canada). I can't get the "free" version anywhere except if I go out of my way to go to a Walmart. Is there anything special about OxiClean in particular or can I use any "-free" detergent like Tide Free to the same effect?
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 22:45 |
|
|
First, cleaning and sanitation are two different issues. OxiClean is a cleaner, and I'd use a sanitizer afterward. Second, it's not exactly a detergent like Tide or something is. I don't think I'd use a laundry detergent. If you're having that large a problem finding it, you might just look for PBW at your local shop or online. It's actually designed to clean brewery gear, and it's the real deal where OxiClean is the bargain-basement solution that's almost as good.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2014 19:21
|
|
