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I know nothing of Club Cadet machines, but I have heard that model range sits along side the John Deere X300 series. You are going to want to take care of all that rust immediately if you want that machine to last more then just a few years. I don't know your skill level, but for now just grab a wire wheel and some POR15. The thing might look like a spotted bumble bee until you can get some paint on it, but it will stop the rust.
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Feb 21, 2014 19:37
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| # ? May 15, 2024 21:27 |
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I can't wait to hack some poo poo up.  
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Feb 21, 2014 19:38
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You lucky bastard. I had to settle for a thermal dynamics.
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Feb 22, 2014 03:23
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the spyder posted:I can't wait to hack some poo poo up. It's really hard to stop once you get started. Plasma cutters have a nasty tendency to gently caress with the operators brain. Pro-tip: Store extension cords long enough to reach your irritating neighbors cars in a safe and give your wife the keys. Like that would help... gently caress. I'm a former addict, but I'm trying hard to quit it. Really. I haven't cut things for almost days... or hours ..or something.
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Feb 22, 2014 11:39
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I ordered almost 3 grand in tools the other day (to outfit a new lab in my department), and I just got word that everything is shipping soon. But that the tool chest is shipping a week after everything else 
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Feb 22, 2014 19:43
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Better store 'em at home. 
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Feb 22, 2014 19:51
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Mr. Despair posted:I ordered almost 3 grand in tools the other day (to outfit a new lab in my department), and I just got word that everything is shipping soon. What kind of lab has $3k of tools in it? Do you wear white coats?
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Feb 22, 2014 19:55
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kid sinister posted:What kind of lab has $3k of tools in it? Do you wear white coats? A physics lab, and that's just 3k for hand tools, specialized stuff is way worse. Good oscilloscopes start at 15-20k! Specifically it was going to be a lab to build the target for a particle accelerator experiment, but the professor doing that passed away unexpectedly so while we're finishing putting together the lab space it's not clear what it'll be used for yet. The money being used to outfit the lab is part of a startup fund though, so if it doesn't get spent by July or so it disappears forever, so it's better for us to buy a few grand worth of tools now and hopefully be set for a while, versus only buying what we absolutely need and then not having money down the road when we decide that we need something. As for lab coats, I'm more of a suit guy  p.s. that little grey box on the table behind me, with the handle? That cost about 3 grand by itself. It counts dust 
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Feb 22, 2014 22:35
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Sir Cornelius posted:It's really hard to stop once you get started. Plasma cutters have a nasty tendency to gently caress with the operators brain. Pro-tip: Store extension cords long enough to reach your irritating neighbors cars in a safe and give your wife the keys. I'm planning on solving this by strapping it to a 1/2 sheet (5x5) plasma table with a machine torch. I will end up using a Powertherm 85, but this is a good start.
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Feb 23, 2014 06:37
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Over the summer I was able to pick up a Shopbot Desktop CNC Router with a HSD Spindle on it and build out a shop in my garage. I've been using it pretty much daily since I got it to work right, when it first arrived I had to have a sub panel installed in my garage for it.  Prior to getting the machine my garage was empty, and we never kept cars in the garage in any house I've lived in for some reason.  But I ended up building out a shop with lots of tools that do work for me because I have a lot of problems actually making things by hand.  All of those Makerbots ended up breaking on me beyond repair, so now this is what I'm left with in the 3d printer market.  I really need to clean the workspace more often, but I usually use the same set of tools repeatedly so I just leave them all over the place.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:23
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1) How did you break that many 3d printers? 2) What are you primarily making with all this?
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Feb 23, 2014 22:03
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the spyder posted:1) How did you break that many 3d printers? 1) The electronics in the Makerbot Replicator printers have common failure points that have been noted, but are not covered after a year post-purchase. I contacted Makerbot regarding the problem and they told me it would cost an obscene amount of money to have the boards replaced. One of them came with a boot sized hole in the box and Makerbot said it wasn't their fault and they wouldn't fix it, and FedEx said that the package wasn't insured. So I had to actually take it apart and make new parts to fix the cracked ones, but that ended up working until the electronics failed. 2) I make prototypes for individuals and small businesses, and I have started a company of my own to make open source 3d printers, however we have not finished our product test cycles yet. We also do PCB layout, but that's not really something people ask for. The reason I was able to get all of this stuff as a college student was because of an engineering competition where I ended up winning 50,000 dollars to start an open hardware company making 3d printers and the components that make them up.
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Feb 23, 2014 22:22
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What kind of company sends a $1000+ package through one of the major shippers without any kind of insurance?  I don't think I've ever heard anything good about the Makerbot guys.
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Feb 23, 2014 22:29
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Splizwarf posted:I don't think I've ever heard anything good about the Makerbot guys. I used to like them a lot. The first few times I met them (when they had a prototype cupcake) I spoke to Zach, Adam and Bre and they were talking about how great the future was going to be. They really turned me on to the idea of making things, historically I had only done software stuff. Every other experience I've had with them was awful.
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Feb 23, 2014 23:03
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Ffffffffff... The Grizzly G0715P Polar Bear Series Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife (10") was going for abotu $758 CDN, but is now going for $1,198.77.  I wish I wasn't getting laid off in March. I could have had a kick-rear end table saw that isn't actively trying to kill me and doesn't require the use of a square for every cut. Also the belt requires constant attention as it hops off the pulley after almost every cut.If only there was something a high school teacher with impending financial problems could do to make a lot of money fast. . .
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Feb 24, 2014 14:31
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Blistex posted:If only there was something a high school teacher with impending financial problems could do to make a lot of money fast. . . Well if you're handy with woodwork you could refit RV's 
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Feb 24, 2014 14:50
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How does a high school teacher get laid off 3/4 of the way through the school year? Are you not contracted? What're you being replaced with for that block, mid-semester?
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Feb 24, 2014 16:32
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Splizwarf posted:How does a high school teacher get laid off 3/4 of the way through the school year? Are you not contracted? What're you being replaced with for that block, mid-semester? First Nation's high school. . . I could do an effortpost in GBS that would blow your freaking minds, but I also want to avoid the whole GBS detective agency as well. Long story short, contract because a community member is coming back after mat leave and my 4 years here means nothing because teacher/student ratios are already bad enough.
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Feb 24, 2014 17:57
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What are likely causes of chatter in a lunchbox planer? I googled several variations of the question and got guesses that include every part and operation of the machine, but nothing definite. I just finished aligning the tables and I'm not cutting too deep.
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Mar 2, 2014 23:16
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Does the machine vibrate at all? It's a darn simple design. Motor, cutter head, blades. It's either the knives/cutterhead/bearings depending on how bad it is. Any slack in the up/down adjustment?
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Mar 3, 2014 01:28
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the spyder posted:Does the machine vibrate at all? It's a darn simple design. Motor, cutter head, blades. It's either the knives/cutterhead/bearings depending on how bad it is. Any slack in the up/down adjustment? No vibration but now that you mention it there is some slack in the up/down.
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Mar 3, 2014 02:24
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A few tool comments from the weekend 1) Incra Jig http://www.amazon.com/Incra-IJ32-Original-INCRA-Jig/dp/B001EYU97K/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393813825&sr=1-1&keywords=incra+jigs I got the incra jig for Christmas deciding that this was both cheaper and more versatile than a dedicated dovetail jig. Basically it lets you accurately and repeatably move your router table fence then you run the peices through at a right angle to the fence with the dovetail bit. It took some trial and error to make a fixture to adapt it to my (small) router table and make a right angle jig. And a bit more trial and error to get a hang of the process. But now that that's done I'm happy with it and I made some half decent half blind dovetails. Next time it will go a lot quicker. 2) Bosch Router table http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6 Put simply, this table is thoroughly mediocre. It's a router table, so it's way better than no table (and I got it for $125) but it has issues. The center plate which the router is mounted to is warped, or the table is warped, or both - bottom line it doesn't properly line up with the main table so pieces rock on the border, no matter how much time I spend adjusting it it. Worse, the plastic inserts that go around the bit aren't flush to the center plate. So there are 3 different heights on the table top. 3) Ryobi Cordless Jig Saw http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-One-Cordless-Orbital-Jig-Saw-P521/202066524 $25. That's all I have to say. Maybe they're clearing them out to make way for a new model? I don't know but it seems like a good buy, and it gets decent reviews. I very much prefer cordless and currently have an old corded so I couldn't resist when I saw it (and I'm pretty sure it was $40 just a few weeks ago). Ryobi isn't the best but they sure are cheap. 4) Delta bench belt/disk sander This was a craigslist pickup a few weeks ago that I finally used (to sand the dovetails flush). Really liked it. Super convenient to drop the piece onto it and lift it off and have a perfect finish. I questioned this after I brought it home but now I'm definitely keeping it.
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Mar 3, 2014 04:00
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Router table warpage/dips are a common complaint. Years ago I built a small benchtop router table from scrap countertop. It's nothing fancy but the top has stayed flat.
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Mar 3, 2014 04:14
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wormil posted:Router table warpage/dips are a common complaint. Years ago I built a small benchtop router table from scrap countertop. It's nothing fancy but the top has stayed flat. Mines a bit of plywood clamped to the work bench.
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Mar 3, 2014 04:19
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Frogmanv2 posted:Mines a bit of plywood clamped to the work bench. I'm thinking of building this one from Woodsmith to save some space as my benchtop is always in the way. http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2014/02/27/space-saving-router-table/
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Mar 3, 2014 05:47
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wormil posted:I'm thinking of building this one from Woodsmith to save some space as my benchtop is always in the way. That's a good solution, but dust collection could be a bit of an issue. I'm renting, so I can't even attach stuff to walls.
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Mar 3, 2014 15:11
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I used my new 8" Delta jointer for the first time today. Better than sex.
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Mar 3, 2014 21:48
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wormil posted:Router table warpage/dips are a common complaint. Years ago I built a small benchtop router table from scrap countertop. It's nothing fancy but the top has stayed flat. Yeah. I'm going to revisit the table situation. For the dovetail work I just completed I would have been better suited by a peice of plywood with a half inch hole in it for the bit. Next time around I may do just that.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:27
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When I first got my house my dad got me the Ryobi One system. It has worked out pretty well so far, and I upgraded the batteries to the lithium a couple of years ago. The drill in the set burnt out, so I need a new drill. I know that the Ryobi tools aren't the best, but is this daily deal Dewalt set any better in quality? http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK265L-18-Volt-Compact-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002WJUEMG I've got nearly the full gamut of the Ryobi tools at this point, so if all things are equal I'd rather stick with the same battery, but if this Dewalt is much better, I'll pick this up. Or if there's a recommended alternative, please post it. I'm not doing anything insane with these tools, just sporadic weekend projects. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 16:59
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AFewBricksShy posted:When I first got my house my dad got me the Ryobi One system. It has worked out pretty well so far, and I upgraded the batteries to the lithium a couple of years ago.
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Mar 4, 2014 17:27
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AFewBricksShy posted:When I first got my house my dad got me the Ryobi One system. It has worked out pretty well so far, and I upgraded the batteries to the lithium a couple of years ago. I'd avoid investing in the old style dewalt. Dewalt is an upgrade but stick to the 20V max for new purchases. Agree with the other poster, ryobi is fine and the prices mean you can have more tools. If you consider adding a new cordless line think about 12V. 12V lithium like Milwaukee would generally match ryobi in power but beat it in quality/size/weight. So you could replace the ryobi drill now (check ebay to get the tool by itself, I see them for $27 right now) and later you could buy a 12V Milwaukee (or other) drill/impact combo for about $150. All said this would cost the same as an 18V combo but the 12v tools will probably be better suited to your average use with the Ryobi as an extra and available when you need a 1/2 in chuck. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 18:36
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asdf32 posted:
^^^^^ Couldn't agree more. As someone who has several versions of both 12v, 18v, and 20v cordless, I find I prefer to use the 12v about 90% of the time. Unless you are working in the trades or are doing heavy building projects I think 12v is really the way to go. The 12v are MUCH lighter and lend themselves so much better for working in tight areas. Makita makes an excellent Driver / Impact kit that was $99 on Black Friday. I know CPOoutlets.com has run that same sale a couple of times since. If you can afford a little more, the Milwaukee M12 series of cordless is awesome having a crazy amount of tool options for the same battery config. All that being said, there is going to be those occasion when you need to sink a lag into a stud, use a hole saw, do some masonry work est... so it's definitely not a bad idea to have both on hand if you can swing it. A good corded with a 1/2" chuck does those jobs pretty well also.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:39
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Sointenly posted:A good corded with a 1/2" chuck does those jobs pretty well also. I have an awesome 70's black and decker corded drill with a 1/2" chuck that I use for heavy duty stuff. It's awesome. It's not all that fast but it has an absurd amount of torque. It's perfect for mixing thinset.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:19
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AFewBricksShy posted:I have an awesome 70's black and decker corded drill with a 1/2" chuck that I use for heavy duty stuff. It's awesome. It's not all that fast but it has an absurd amount of torque. It's perfect for mixing thinset. I use my 1/2" Milwaukee for that - fullsize (I'd say 3-4" diameter) helix style mixing paddle, full throttle straight into a 5 gallon pail I mix ~40-60lbs of mortar in at a time. Doesn't even really get hot, and mixes mortar like a loving champ. This one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-8-Amp-1-2-in-Magnum-Drill-0299-20/100026817 If you do this, use the second handgrip so you don't lose a wrist and have some chance of controlling where in the bucket the paddle goes.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:41
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kastein posted:I use my 1/2" Milwaukee for that - fullsize (I'd say 3-4" diameter) helix style mixing paddle, full throttle straight into a 5 gallon pail I mix ~40-60lbs of mortar in at a time. I have the exact same tool drill motor, it's a work horse. Like you mentioned though, it only really comes out when it's time to use the swizzle stick.
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Mar 5, 2014 00:07
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kastein posted:I use my 1/2" Milwaukee for that - fullsize (I'd say 3-4" diameter) helix style mixing paddle, full throttle straight into a 5 gallon pail I mix ~40-60lbs of mortar in at a time. I looked at my drill tonight, it might actually be from the 50's but I'm not positive. I took some pictures but I'm posting from my phone so I'll post them tomorrow.
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Mar 5, 2014 02:47
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Sointenly posted:I have the exact same tool drill motor, it's a work horse. Like you mentioned though, it only really comes out when it's time to use the swizzle stick. I also use mine to run a 7/8" ship augur through 120 year old oak beams, bore 1/2" holes through steel plate, and sink long decking screws into wet pressure treated lumber. Basically I just use it for everything. Oh, it'll happily rip your arms off if you're trying to put a 4" holesaw through a sheet of CDX and the teeth bind up, too. It's basically a .50 desert eagle in electric hand drill form. It's way overpowered for everything, but hey, swatting gnats with a blacksmiths hammer is effective too, and it sure isn't going to stall out on you. I just wish it was a little shorter, because I had to punch a 1" hole straight through the side of a stud the other day and it barely fit between that one and the adjacent stud with a spade bit in it. Didn't complain a single bit about being run at full throttle straight into the stud with as much downforce as I could muster at that angle, either. I'd still buy it if given the choice to go back and rethink my purchase... I'd just buy a right angle drill as well, because I could use one these days. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 04:59
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I've had one of these for years. Loads of torque at low rpm, perfect for running larger spade drills and hole saws and stuff. The second handle is easy to adjust to whatever angle you need. Don't even think about using it one handed. It's heavy as poo poo and if it grabs it'll gently caress your wrist up.
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Mar 5, 2014 05:42
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This is the one I have: And a closeup of the face plate: 
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Mar 5, 2014 15:08
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| # ? May 15, 2024 21:27 |
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kastein posted:
I have have Milwaukee M12 and a Dewalt 18b right angle drill. They are great tools but I really don't use them as much as I thought I would. What I do use though is the right angle impact. I picked up a cheapy Craftsman Nextec and it kind of kicks rear end. As I started doing the flooring in my rooms I noticed that termites had turned a sole plate and bottom 4-5" of a couple studs into cardboard. I pulled/replaced the sole plate and sistered on new wood to the damaged studs. That right angle impact was a bad rear end tool to have around for that project.
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Mar 5, 2014 19:14
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