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Bimmi posted:I could see an MG Kshatriya needing a lot of metal in order to work, though, and Bandai seems to hate using metal parts for some reason. It's because making metal parts requires a completely different set of equipment. With plastic kits they just need to retool or reprogram the machines making the runners.
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Feb 22, 2014 09:41
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Say, what kind of glue would I be looking for if I wanted to glue stickers down? I have this annoying sticker that wraps around a gun barrel that refuses to stay down.
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Feb 22, 2014 10:23
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Neddy Seagoon posted:It's because making metal parts requires a completely different set of equipment. With plastic kits they just need to retool or reprogram the machines making the runners. I get that it's probably more cost-effective and/or easier for them to do it all in plastic, but they have included metal parts in the past and I've seen lots of instances where it would have been the better and more durable solution. edit: does anyone else remember this nutty thing? Bimmi fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Feb 22, 2014 |
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Feb 22, 2014 10:38
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Son Ryo posted:Say, what kind of glue would I be looking for if I wanted to glue stickers down? I have this annoying sticker that wraps around a gun barrel that refuses to stay down. Glue honestly isn't very ideal for stickers. Your best bet is to gloss coat the surface. Bimmi posted:I get that it's probably more cost-effective and/or easier for them to do it all in plastic, but they have included metal parts in the past and I've seen lots of instances where it would have been the better and more durable solution. From what I hear, way back in one of the early MGs a screw was the cause for a major engineering gently caress up. Ever since then Bandai's avoided using metal as much as they can, even when it would have seriously helped. EDIT: Wouldn't be surprised if it was a point of pride by now too. There was seriously no reason to not have screws on the RG Zeta for instance. EDIT 2: V They're also a really easy way to scratch stickers so uh at least blunt the edge a bit first. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Feb 22, 2014 |
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Feb 22, 2014 10:39
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Son Ryo posted:Say, what kind of glue would I be looking for if I wanted to glue stickers down? I have this annoying sticker that wraps around a gun barrel that refuses to stay down. Try giving it a poke with a toothpick. They're amazing for helping to get stickers into/staying in place.
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Feb 22, 2014 10:43
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Son Ryo posted:Say, what kind of glue would I be looking for if I wanted to glue stickers down? I have this annoying sticker that wraps around a gun barrel that refuses to stay down. Try some Future/Pledge/whatever they're calling it today – brush it lightly onto the backside of the sticker and let it get tacky before application. Also clean your surface with alcohol before you put stickers on and don't handle them with your fingers; even a little skin oil can weaken the adhesive pretty badly. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Feb 22, 2014 |
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Feb 22, 2014 11:49
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HGBF Crossbone Gundam for April! Pretty sure it's destinct from any of the manga designs, it doesn't have the single vent which goes under the figurehead on the chest, which also doesn't match any of the exising designs. Still cool! Should mean the X-thruster is a separate booster pack as well.
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Feb 22, 2014 14:49
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The HGCC Turn A Gundam's gotten colour pictures.
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Feb 22, 2014 17:08
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No cow, no sale. Also nice of them to keep taunting us with the NG 1/144 Sumos.
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Feb 22, 2014 17:57
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BizarroAzrael posted:doesn't match any of the exising designs. HGUC Crossbone X1 was confirmed a while back, don't worry.
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Feb 22, 2014 18:42
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So since the weather was nice, I finished up a few MGs today. Excuse my messy rear end desk. For the record, I think I like Games Workshop's acrylic dullcote (the Zaku) better than testors' lacquer (Turn A and Gouf). Anything Games Workshop is stupidly expensive, though. Sup small box of little figures that don't do anything and are one color of plastic that costs $70. These 3 are also super good MGs and you should get them, just sayin'. I also picked up a Gelgoog 2.0 on a whim and I ordered an MG Qubeley finally. I've been meaning to do the Qubeley for like 3 years since I did my Zeta and Gundam MK II 2.0s.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:30
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Are there ideal spraying conditions for Mr. Hobby Topcoat? All the critical information on the can is in moon and I don't want to poo poo up my first kit if it's easily avoidable.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:50
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Gihon posted:Are there ideal spraying conditions for Mr. Hobby Topcoat? All the critical information on the can is in moon and I don't want to poo poo up my first kit if it's easily avoidable. I've never actually used Mr. Topcoat even though it's the preferred one. I generally say you should paint\topcoat between 50-70F and less than 50% humidity. The weather where I live is insane. Last week we had a snowstorm and got 7 inches of snow within a half hour... this week it's beautiful, sunny and 60 degrees out. I also reorganized my MG display.  I'm runnin' out of space!
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Feb 23, 2014 02:05
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Gammatron 64 posted:I've never actually used Mr. Topcoat even though it's the preferred one. I generally say you should paint\topcoat between 50-70F and less than 50% humidity. Looks like I won't get to apply it until at least mid-March then. Nowhere to spray it inside. Do I need to clean the pieces before I decal them and topcoat it? I'm not sure if the hobby store owner just trying to get me to spend more cash when she said I should buy a bottle of cleaning solution.
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Feb 23, 2014 02:57
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Gihon posted:Looks like I won't get to apply it until at least mid-March then. Nowhere to spray it inside. I just wash the runners with regular dishwasher soap and water before I put a kit together. Gets the mold release off. I don't have an airbrush or a spray booth, I just use spray cans for painting and topcoat, so I'm very much at the mercy of the weather. Normally I couldn't do this in February, but the weather has been weird. I'm thinking of getting a Gouf Custom during the spring or fall and painting it in my own custom colors. Granted, I don't know what my custom colors actually are, but probably green and orange or green and purple. Not sure which will look better.
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Feb 23, 2014 03:07
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Gihon posted:Do I need to clean the pieces before I decal them and topcoat it? I'm not sure if the hobby store owner just trying to get me to spend more cash when she said I should buy a bottle of cleaning solution. Not really. The main point of washing your kits is to get skin oil off (mold release is pretty much a myth, Bandai gets most of that off), and for that all you need is some regular dish soap or some other degreaser. And that's far more important when you're painting. For decals the big thing is to gloss coat under it. Seriously if you don't have a bottle of Future, go get it.
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Feb 23, 2014 03:42
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Trivia question; What's more silly/awesome than an Astray Blue-Frame with one oversized sword? http://gundamguy.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/gundam-seed-destiny-astray-r-secret.html
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Feb 23, 2014 06:06
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Oh for the love of christ, "Let's take Phenex's gimmick and make it more in line with SEED Astray's line of thinking..."
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Feb 23, 2014 09:27
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The thing about a HGUC Neo Zeong compared to the Dendrobium is that it wont have the spring loaded missile tubes and the extra Gundam GP-03, so I'm thinking they're just going to mold a lot of large pieces, like the fuel canisters for example, they'll probably not be too much bigger than the ones that come on the MG FA Unicorn. All the other parts too could be pretty hollow. It's going to be massive, but probably not nearly as expensive as the Dendrobium Stamen.
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Feb 23, 2014 09:33
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Faltion posted:The thing about a HGUC Neo Zeong compared to the Dendrobium is that it wont have the spring loaded missile tubes and the extra Gundam GP-03, so I'm thinking they're just going to mold a lot of large pieces, like the fuel canisters for example, they'll probably not be too much bigger than the ones that come on the MG FA Unicorn. All the other parts too could be pretty hollow. It's going to be massive, but probably not nearly as expensive as the Dendrobium Stamen. Doesn't it have the Sinanju inside it, though? Or was that just a joke?
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Feb 23, 2014 10:25
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Son Ryo posted:Doesn't it have the Sinanju inside it, though? Or was that just a joke? If you look at this image from the SD it's pretty clear there is something Sinanju-like in it and the shield is stored on it's back. 
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Feb 23, 2014 15:00
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Zedd posted:We don't know if the Sinanju docks with it or gets bolted into it I think, but it's in there for sure  If you look carefully, there's clearly a Sinanju in there.
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Feb 23, 2014 15:09
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BlitzBlast posted:Not really. The main point of washing your kits is to get skin oil off (mold release is pretty much a myth, Bandai gets most of that off), and for that all you need is some regular dish soap or some other degreaser. And that's far more important when you're painting. For decals the big thing is to gloss coat under it. On the note of future what's the best way to apply it?
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Feb 23, 2014 18:11
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With a paint brush, for decals or just small areas. If you want a full on gloss coat, an air brush is better.
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Feb 23, 2014 18:16
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So I ordered the master grade turn a. Any advice for it.
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Feb 23, 2014 18:17
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Get some green paint, because you are not getting that forehead decal on. Also if you haven't figured out how to do panel washes yet, now would be a good time because holy crap the Turn A is covered in panel lines.
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Feb 23, 2014 18:20
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:So I ordered the master grade turn a. Any advice for it. Don't try putting in the decal for the little Turn A symbol on the forehead, just use a green Gundam marker. The MG Turn A is a beautiful kit. Make sure to panel line it, because it has tons of detail. Also, interestingly it has no polycaps at all. The shoulder armor is a little tricky and odd, but it's hard to explain.
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Feb 23, 2014 18:22
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BlitzBlast posted:With a paint brush, for decals or just small areas. If you want a full on gloss coat, an air brush is better. How toxic is it when sprayed? I just got an airbrush, a dust mask and I made a simple spray booth out of cardboard for using acrylics but it doesn't have any venting like a proper booth.
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Feb 23, 2014 18:26
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BlitzBlast posted:Get some green paint, because you are not getting that forehead decal on. How do you do those?
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Feb 23, 2014 19:31
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Luminaflare posted:How toxic is it when sprayed? I just got an airbrush, a dust mask and I made a simple spray booth out of cardboard for using acrylics but it doesn't have any venting like a proper booth. It's not toxic at all, it even smells really good. I mean you don't want to inhale tons of it, but a regular mask and ventilation is fine. Also you can mix it with flat base and get semi-gloss and matte as well with the right mixture.
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Feb 23, 2014 19:43
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Gammatron 64 posted:Also, interestingly it has no polycaps at all. All of the Late UC MGs are like this, it's not actually that unique. Luminaflare posted:How toxic is it when sprayed? It's a floor polish, it would be kind of bad if it had toxic fumes. Just don't drink it. ManSeriesBrofist posted:How do you do those? Get some enamels. Get some enamel thinner. Thin the enamels until they're watery, then drop a bead of paint into the panel line. The paint will flow down the line and give you a perfect panel line. Give it like a minute or two to dry then gently wipe away any excess with some rubbing alcohol.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:08
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Luminaflare posted:I just got an airbrush, a dust mask and I made a simple spray booth out of cardboard for using acrylics but it doesn't have any venting like a proper booth. I'm moving into an apartment that has no patio or anything and I was thinking of getting one or making one. Can anyone explain to me though why there is a filter on this thing, much less an odor eliminating one? It isn't filtering the air of dust or particulate before it gets to my model, its drawing air/paint vapors/etc from behind it before blowing it out the window... at which point I don't care how dusty or smelly it is.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:11
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BlitzBlast posted:It's a floor polish, it would be kind of bad if it had toxic fumes. Just don't drink it. Fair point. I hadn't seen any mention of it being toxic but I was mostly double checking so I don't accidentally poison myself. BlitzBlast posted:Get some enamels. Get some enamel thinner. Thin the enamels until they're watery, then drop a bead of paint into the panel line. The paint will flow down the line and give you a perfect panel line. Give it like a minute or two to dry then gently wipe away any excess with some rubbing alcohol. This is also quite magical to watch, if it wasn't for the pain in the rear end which is enamel paints I'd do it for every kit. As it stands I'm probably just going to stick with using it for MG kits and stick with the Gundam Markers for my HG kits. Edit: Blackchamber posted:I'm moving into an apartment that has no patio or anything and I was thinking of getting one or making one. I don't know about odor eliminating but it stops the fans getting gunked up with paint.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:13
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Hobby no Toriko put up a review of the MG Exia RII, and it's literally the HG all over again.  All of the parts to assemble MG Exia are in it, including the GN strips. I'm so glad I waited. 
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Feb 23, 2014 21:25
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Luminaflare posted:I don't know about odor eliminating but it stops the fans getting gunked up with paint. Oh true I hadn't thought of that. And yeah amazon sells all variety of them, fiberglass, non fiberglass, different shapes (diamond), and odor eliminating.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:29
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Luminaflare posted:How toxic is it when sprayed? I just got an airbrush, a dust mask and I made a simple spray booth out of cardboard for using acrylics but it doesn't have any venting like a proper booth. It may not give you cancer but you still don't want to be inhaling it, and if by "dust mask' you mean one of those disposable paper things then that's not going to cut it. Proper organic-vapor breathing masks are not that expensive and not optional IMO if you're spraying or airbrushing your kits.
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Feb 23, 2014 21:48
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We don't have a patio either, and we used to have a homemade small spray booth but we got rid of it, so now we use two big fans exhausting out two open windows + masks. It actually does the trick pretty well. I was in there for 4-5 hrs today working and feel fine, except for a bit cold from the outside air. I would say if you have proper masks (like Bimmi was saying, something with actual filters, not a paper mask), as long as you have a fan drawing the vapors out of the room you should be OK.
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Feb 24, 2014 00:31
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Neddy Seagoon posted:
The SD version looks way better, those rocket legs look dumb to me
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Feb 24, 2014 01:12
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Bimmi posted:It may not give you cancer but you still don't want to be inhaling it, and if by "dust mask' you mean one of those disposable paper things then that's not going to cut it. The N in N100 and N95 rated masks are not rated for oil vapors. P100 and P95 rated masks are rated for oil vapors. The P100 rated mask is what you should get for any kind of aerosol work. You can get disposable masks, or you can get a reusable mask with disposable cartridges, which generally fit better and are cheaper in the long run.
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Feb 24, 2014 05:05
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Seconding getting a real mask. These masks will filter out particulates, organic vapors from paint/solvent, and virtually all smells. I've literally worn one in a cadaver lab and couldn't smell the formaldehyde or bodies at all. They're also much more comfortable to wear and easier to breathe through than a paper mask. Lowest price I've found replacement filters is at Lowe's, for anyone that has one already.
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Feb 24, 2014 06:55
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