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BlackMK4 posted:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302951 That thing has been for sale for awhile. The damage definitely isn't insurmountable for someone willing to massage a worthy car back to life which has me wondering if something else is up with it.
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# ? Feb 21, 2014 19:44 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:43 |
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The inside is big bird yellow.
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# ? Feb 21, 2014 22:42 |
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I don't see why you'd bother fixing that chassis unless having a euro vin really means something to you. It's going to be a lot simpler to swap the drivetrain/suspension over to a US car.
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# ? Feb 21, 2014 23:15 |
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What do you guys think about this one? I did the bushings and coolant system to my wrecked M3 2 years ago, I'm kinda scoffing at the idea of going down that path again: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2078635-FS-PA-1999-BMW-M3-77k-Orig-Miles-5spd-CSLs-SuperSprint-Bilstein-Hellrot-Blk Comes with throwing stars on winter tires and the CSLs. I feel like the guy would think the price I offered was an insulting lowball. It's definitely not 15K worth. voltron fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Feb 22, 2014 |
# ? Feb 22, 2014 00:22 |
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Ive got a problem with my wife's e61. It ran really rough for a day, then stopped starting. I got the codes, and they were intake and exhaust synchronization. I changed the cam sensors, and it did nothing. Had it towed to the local bmw indy and they basically said, "we got it started, it seems nothing is wrong with it". We tryed to get them to fix something, but basically they wouldn't take our money and they cleaned the vanos solenoids and changed the o-ring on the oil filter. Is there something I should be changing so the car doesn't leave us stranded somewhere? I have searched on the usual forums but nothing really helped.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 01:35 |
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blindjoe posted:Ive got a problem with my wife's e61. It ran really rough for a day, then stopped starting. Did you change the crank sensor also?
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 01:44 |
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Was there any codes associated with it?
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 03:39 |
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I feel it's worth repeating every so often: on the DME electronics crossover years, from say '99 onwards, weird issues like that may be fixed with an ECU update. I had an issue on my E46 where it was throwing similar codes and it turned out that the tolerances used didn't make sense as the car aged, and BMW pushed out a DME update that addressed it.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 06:34 |
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I didn't change the crank sensor. Also I forgot to mention, its an 530xi with the n52. They updated the DME at the indy as well, so maybe they actually fixed something. There are currently no codes, so we shall see how it goes I guess. I have been trying not to work on this car, but I guess I should go through the things all e60s are supposed to need. The big one on the list from the shop was leaking oil filter housing. Is that something major like needing a whole new housing?
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 17:31 |
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blindjoe posted:I didn't change the crank sensor. A leaking oil filter housing means the gasket is on its way out; the part is cheap and if you're relatively handy it isn't that hard to change yourself, though I understand in the N52 you need to drain out a fair bit of coolant in the procedure. Still, it shouldn't take more than an hour or two total.
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# ? Feb 22, 2014 19:35 |
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Well I did my first oil change on the M3 today. I am extremely paranoid, so I will ask: Is it normal for these drain plugs to have a little bit of residual oil left around them that will drip? I ask because I haven't had a car with a recessed plug (never mind two of them), and one of mine had a drop under it about thirty minutes after changing the oil. I know it's snug, but on the other hand I don't really want to take it off to replace the copper washer out of paranoia. I took a paper towel and wiped the recess around the plug out so I hope that's enough. Edit: It's stopped. I know I should have replaced the washer but I forgot about it until I already had all the oil in. If I notice oil loss I will bite the bullet and change the washer. Might have even been leftover oil from the last drips when I put the plug back in. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Feb 23, 2014 |
# ? Feb 22, 2014 21:54 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well I did my first oil change on the M3 today. I am extremely paranoid, so I will ask: Is it normal for these drain plugs to have a little bit of residual oil left around them that will drip? I ask because I haven't had a car with a recessed plug (never mind two of them), and one of mine had a drop under it about thirty minutes after changing the oil. I know it's snug, but on the other hand I don't really want to take it off to replace the copper washer out of paranoia. I took a paper towel and wiped the recess around the plug out so I hope that's enough. did you replace the copper washer with a new one? those are one time use parts and should be bought new with every oil and filter change.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 00:15 |
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I just went through replacing the plastic adjusters for my 2002 525i. I have the factory HIDs. While I was taking the headlight housings apart it became obvious one of the previous owners already "attempted" this repair. I have never seen such creative uses for epoxy, super glue, silicon, and something unidentifiable. I was able to get the adjusters replaced and the housings back together but I have no delusions that these are anywhere close to waterproof anymore. My question is about the Chinese replacement headlight housings. They are $500 for a pair as opposed to the actual Hellas which are around $1500. Is there a compelling reason to spend an extra $1k for the Hellas? One other question. I would like to get my front and rear bumpers repainted as they have quite a bit of battle damage. Does anyone know of a good body shop in the Metro Detroit area who they would recommend?
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 01:07 |
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voltron posted:Thanks man. I've never felt attached to a car before (see previous list of poo poo cars). Appreciate the advice on the STI. I can't lie and say that I haven't been keeping an eye on the Bimmerforums for something clean. Definitely buy it back, and take the parts. Find a mint e30 and swap everything in and you'll have the perfect car.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 01:11 |
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2003 Euro e46, all of a sudden I can't lock the door with the key anymore. Neither of the keys remote functions have worked whilst I've owned it, I replaced one fob battery but never got it to sync using any method I found online so basically the drivers door lock is the only way in. I suppose I'm lucky it broke open, I've just taken everything valuable out and kept my fingers crossed but if this is something I can fix please let me know. I'd prefer not to drop £250+ on a new key from bmw not knowing if the fob is the problem.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 11:19 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Well I did my first oil change on the M3 today. I am extremely paranoid, so I will ask: Is it normal for these drain plugs to have a little bit of residual oil left around them that will drip? I ask because I haven't had a car with a recessed plug (never mind two of them), and one of mine had a drop under it about thirty minutes after changing the oil. I know it's snug, but on the other hand I don't really want to take it off to replace the copper washer out of paranoia. I took a paper towel and wiped the recess around the plug out so I hope that's enough. I always wipe down after putting the bolt back in and I've never had a drip afterward. My technique is to (1) Always use a new crush washer, and (2) Torque the bolt while looking sideways at the crush washer and cranking the wrench until I start seeing the washer deform and squeeze out.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 15:41 |
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Cakefool posted:2003 Euro e46, all of a sudden I can't lock the door with the key anymore. Neither of the keys remote functions have worked whilst I've owned it, I replaced one fob battery but never got it to sync using any method I found online so basically the drivers door lock is the only way in. This method has always worked for me. Give this a shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YcFN3Ns0yI To do additional keys, you don't need to put them into the ignition, as long as the first one is recognized, then just do the holding down unlock/pressing lock step and they should sync up as well. (The door locks will click to indicate it worked.) Other important things: You need to do this with all the car doors closed, and they need to remain closed thru the entire process. Also make sure you have fresh correct batteries.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 15:47 |
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Party Alarm posted:Definitely buy it back, and take the parts. Find a mint e30 and swap everything in and you'll have the perfect car. I was planning on buying it back, but I had not thought about an E30 swap. Thanks for the idea.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 16:55 |
Seconding the e30 swap and roll the fenders to fit those RG-R.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 17:09 |
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Dooooo it e: You can even swap over the seats too if you wanted
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 22:34 |
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rscott posted:Dooooo it WHO WOULDN'T want to swap the seats? A friend of mine in Wisconsin told me once that the most glorious death an E36 M can have is by donating everything to an E30. You can swap like everything; steering rack, transmission, engine, I believe the rear diff and brakes too. That would be insanely cool.
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# ? Feb 23, 2014 22:52 |
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revmoo posted:I always wipe down after putting the bolt back in and I've never had a drip afterward. My technique is to (1) Always use a new crush washer, and (2) Torque the bolt while looking sideways at the crush washer and cranking the wrench until I start seeing the washer deform and squeeze out. Yeah I didn't replace the washer but there is one in there - it's not going without one entirely. I had not wiped down the drain plug itself when reinstalling so I think it might have been dripping from just being wet when putting it back in. I have not seen any more drips and the oil that was dripping out previously was pretty black.
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# ? Feb 24, 2014 00:48 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:WHO WOULDN'T want to swap the seats? A friend of mine in Wisconsin told me once that the most glorious death an E36 M can have is by donating everything to an E30. You can swap like everything; steering rack, transmission, engine, I believe the rear diff and brakes too. That would be insanely cool. That phrase about e36's has been around for a long time... But to be honest Vaders are truly lovely seats. That said, you can only swap the engine, radiator, trans, control arms and knuckles, front brakes and steering rack.
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# ? Feb 24, 2014 03:31 |
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Debating between e60 535i and W211 Mercedes E55 AMG for the next car :/ both can be picked up between $15-20k, but the BMW is 4-5 years newer and (almost impossible to find) available in 6MT. How's the auto in the 535? Total poo poo? Any owners have some significant do-or-don't's to warn me about? Current car is an e46 330i, I'm just looking for something a bit newer and with more power. Last car was an e39 M5, car before that was another E55 AMG.
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# ? Feb 24, 2014 07:14 |
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BraveUlysses posted:But to be honest Vaders are truly lovely seats. Yea, I agree. My wife loved them, but she happened to fit between the bolsters perfectly. Side Q, did the CSL trunk on the E46 M3 have a higher than normal M3 emblem? http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1008331 http://www.flickr.com/photos/84084408@N05/with/10093853886 Anyone have a carfax account for its VIN? Wbabl93424pn56352 voltron fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Feb 24, 2014 |
# ? Feb 24, 2014 16:04 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:WHO WOULDN'T want to swap the seats? A friend of mine in Wisconsin told me once that the most glorious death an E36 M can have is by donating everything to an E30. You can swap like everything; steering rack, transmission, engine, I believe the rear diff and brakes too. That would be insanely cool. Well everything except the rear suspension. You need a m roady or a clownshoe or a 36ti to get 5 lug in the back of the 30s.
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# ? Feb 24, 2014 17:28 |
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I am in the process of upgrading to a 2005 ZHP, so I guess its time to put my 2004 325Ci up for sale. If anybody here is interested in it PM me, you guys have preference over any of the regular craigslisters. I priced it high for the inevitable craigslist lowballers. All the details are listed in the ad. I hope its ok I post in this thread. This car is enthusiast owned and seemed more fitting here than the regular for sale area. E46 - 2004 325Ci 5 Speed Manual http://elpaso.en.craigslist.org/cto/4342217136.html PMs here or through craigslist email reply with questions. Also, pictures to come when my ZHP finally arrives!
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# ? Feb 24, 2014 19:42 |
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Hi everyone, can I ask if any of you guys see anything alarming on these two cars and their Carfax reports? http://www.bobsmithbmw.com/certified/BMW/2011-BMW-3+Series-Los-Angeles-bc06e10e0a0a00652e39e1fa50c03c6a.htm http://www.stevethomasbmw.com/certified/BMW/2011-BMW-328i-Camarillo-c003cc2c0a0a00e000daab1667805d3c.htm We're scheduled to check these cars out this Thursday, so I would like to hear about anything that's a red flag! Thanks!
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:15 |
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To new to have any major red flags. Both off lease cars, nothing exciting about them. I would say extended oil changes, but BMW includes maintenance. And BMW claims the 12k mile or some silly interval. So its either white or black?
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:18 |
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voltron posted:Yea, I agree. My wife loved them, but she happened to fit between the bolsters perfectly. He literally outright ignores a poster on that thread about accident damage not once, but twice.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:19 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:To new to have any major red flags. I just noticed the black one says it has 40k miles but the Carfax report notes 108k? Is this just a reporting error? Do I need to do a pre-purchase inspection on these CPO vehicles?
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:21 |
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Hand of the King posted:I just noticed the black one says it has 40k miles but the Carfax report notes 108k? Is this just a reporting error? Car fax is notoriously awful on loving the simplest of poo poo up. If you feel like a PPI is worth it, I would. As many claims as I have seen on vehicles being certified, they can be awful hunks of poo poo. An independent GERMAN/BMW auto mechanic is the best to have this done. A good one will have no bias, a lovely one will make sure you buy a poo poo car so you bring it to him for repairs. Cooling system wont explode yet, and all the bushings will be fine, but its worth budgeting those repairs in now, in case you have any thing that does explode after the CPO warranty ends.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:25 |
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SeñorMisterioso posted:I am in the process of upgrading to a 2005 ZHP, so I guess its time to put my 2004 325Ci up for sale. If anybody here is interested in it PM me, you guys have preference over any of the regular craigslisters. I priced it high for the inevitable craigslist lowballers. gently caress CL, put it on BMWCCA classifieds and a Cars.com ad. Hand of the King posted:Hi everyone, can I ask if any of you guys see anything alarming on these two cars and their Carfax reports? I just picked up a 2011 E90 335 back in December and had to look high and low and every under rock to find any on the West Coast that had FOLD DOWN REAR SEATS (part of Cold Weather Package), so if that is important to you keep that in mind. It is more common on Xi's and East Coast cars obviously, and scarce even there. Those cars look clean and taken care of. You might miss the sport package goodies though if you are looking for that. Manual transmissions are also hard to find, but the Auto is not as bad as I thought it would be. Also: gently caress BLACK CARS......seriously. I ended up in another one after swearing not to (due to options) and drat this color. My best all time car I got as a lease return CPO at Steve Thomas (2002 E46 330 sport) and they still have better than average ratings from enthusiasts along with Santa Barbara and Pacific BMW. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Feb 25, 2014 |
# ? Feb 25, 2014 01:53 |
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Tell me how much of a pipe dream I'm living here. I've wanted a BMW for as long as I can remember. My brother-in-law drove a late 90's 318 that I fell in love with. I currently drive an 06 Accord that's one of the most boring cars ever to drive. But, it's paid off and it's mine. I could drive it into the ground no problem. It's probably worth about 11,000 if I sold it today. Anyways, I might be at a point where I could sell this car before I move to New England this summer and buy a new car there (or if it's better to drive it here in Texas due to no rust, I could do that and ship it up there). My budget would probably be about 13000 comfortably. My question is, would it even be a good idea to consider a BMW? I hear horror stories about cost of maintenance, and having driven Hondas all my life, while I don't abuse them, I don't really ever worry about anything breaking because they are so reliable. So pipe dream or do you guys have suggestions as to what I could look into?
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:04 |
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voltron posted:Side Q, did the CSL trunk on the E46 M3 have a higher than normal M3 emblem?
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:05 |
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nwin posted:I currently drive an 06 Accord....... It's probably worth about 11,000 if I sold it today. That's pretty unlikely and may throw off your budget quite a bit. Where did you get that number? Hopefully not from what you see them selling for used at a dealership. Your maintenance costs will be higher. Significantly higher on a ~$10k BMW. 3 series is your best bet, but it's going to require more maintenance especially since it's going to be older and more beat than an Accord for the same money. What is your acceptable annual maintenance budget? That's the real question.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:11 |
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Keyser S0ze posted:I just picked up a 2011 E90 335 back in December and had to look high and low and every under rock to find any on the West Coast that had FOLD DOWN REAR SEATS (part of Cold Weather Package), so if that is important to you keep that in mind. It is more common on Xi's and East Coast cars obviously, and scarce even there. You live somewhere between central coast and the valley? I'm coming down from SB to look at these cars for my fiancee. We first started out with used 2007 3 series but somehow she's talked me into spending a lot more money for nicer/newer cars Anyway, thanks for the advice! BrokenKnucklez posted:Car fax is notoriously awful on loving the simplest of poo poo up. Awesome. Thanks for the tip. I'll keep this in mind.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:14 |
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Motronic posted:That's pretty unlikely and may throw off your budget quite a bit. Where did you get that number? Hopefully not from what you see them selling for used at a dealership. Sorry about that, 8500 trade-in, 10500 private party. As far as an annual maintenance budget, I'm not really sure where I would begin. I can handle small things like oil changes on my car, but I don't really deal with much else. What would be a reasonable amount?
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:19 |
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nwin posted:Sorry about that, 8500 trade-in, 10500 private party. The saying used to be 2000 a year in maintenance costs IF you work on it yourself for a majority of things. If you don't.... 3000-3500 a year if you take it to a good indy, higher if you go to a dealer. It could be higher or lower, adjust on the higher side for an older car that has not been looked after.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 03:43 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:43 |
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revmoo posted:He literally outright ignores a poster on that thread about accident damage not once, but twice. Yea I asked him about that and he was short about it. X'd him off the list.
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# ? Feb 25, 2014 04:34 |