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Jo3sh posted:First, cleaning and sanitation are two different issues. OxiClean is a cleaner, and I'd use a sanitizer afterward. I use StarSan to sanitize after. My brewshop does have PBW but it's the difference between $15 for 1lb of that vs. $10 for 3lbs of OxiClean. It's just annoying to have to make a special trip just for that one product (the cost of shipping makes delivery a non-option).
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Feb 22, 2014 19:28
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Oxyclean isn't a detergent like Tide. Oxyclean Free and PBW (which is basically food-grade Oxyclean) are good at breaking down built-up organic residues like colorful food stains on clothes or yeast gunk in fermenters. Tide and other detergents are good at dissolving stuff that isn't easily soluble in plain water, like oil-based crud. This is why Oxyclean in your laundry can get rid of some stains that detergent can't. For cleaning brewing gear you want something like Oxyclean Free or PBW, not a detergent. It will work better and won't leave behind the residues that detergent will. Regular Oxyclean (i.e. not Oxyclean Free) has perfumes and maybe other stuff in it that that can stick to your gear after cleaning and get into your beer. As others have pointed out, Oxyclean/PBW are for cleaning up (removing stuck-on gunk) after brewing. You also need to sanitize (killing most of the microorganisms that might be living on a clean surface) before brewing, for which you should use StarSan. withak fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 22, 2014 |
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Feb 22, 2014 19:49
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BLARGHLE posted:You have to really load it up with sugar, and like jacobey said, those yeast will eat as much as they possibly can before they quit. I've had some usually low attenuating ale yeasts get up into the 10-12% range trying that(but couldn't get champagne yeast over 16.5%, go figure). Also, you won't be able to properly bottle carbonate if you do it that way. Yeah I did a quick batch in a 2l bottle with an EZ-cap and just stuck it in the fridge after 4 days. Since it was kind of dry I'll put it in after 3 days next time!
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Feb 22, 2014 21:28
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Whoo, the second bitter started up today. Glad I didn't have to go spend another $8 on another vial of yeast! Also, glad I didn't somehow completely gently caress things up, in spite of the mysteriously long lag time.
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Feb 23, 2014 00:34
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I use some Walmart knock off Oxy called Sun Oxy or something. It's not OxyFree, but it works and I see no negative effects. I wouldn't worry about making sure you get the Oxy Free stuff, that is unless someone has a good reason to. Also PBW is basically OxyClean, you can turn your Oxy into PBW pretty easily.
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Feb 23, 2014 00:40
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Non-Free Oxyclean may have dyes and fragrances, which are hard to rinse off and neither of which you want in beer. PBW is basically Oxyclean made specifically for use on food stuff. Don't come crying to us if you get poisoned by some unrinseable additive in Oxyclean.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:02
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BLARGHLE posted:Whoo, the second bitter started up today. Glad I didn't have to go spend another $8 on another vial of yeast! Also, glad I didn't somehow completely gently caress things up, in spite of the mysteriously long lag time. Did you put the yeast in the fridge between the batches? I've found that, even if I give them a few hours to warm up, yeast I've had in the fridge take about a day longer to get started than if I bought and used them that day. Never had any issues with fermentation afterwards, though, so you're probably fine 
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Feb 23, 2014 01:46
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I'm curious about First Wort Hopping and Dry hopping. I've experimented with both before in the past but not in controlled circumstances where I could really appreciate the differences. I am thinking of doing a triple IPA soon since I failed at acquiring a taste of PtY this year. Work in progress recipe: 17 lbs domestic 2 row 1 lb crystal 60L 1 lb cane sugar Mash @ 148F for 90 minutes Now hop schedule is where I'm really overwhelmed. Bittering: 1 oz Columbus FWH + 90 min boil 1 oz Columbus 45 min Flavor/Aroma 1 oz Mosaic 15 min 1 oz Citra 15 min 1 oz Citra flameout Dry hopping (1 oz each) 12 days after pitch Columbus Citra 4 days later Columbus Mosaic 4 days later Citra Mosaic 4 days later Mosaic I am not a fan at all of the pungent resinous aggressive lingering aftertaste that chinook and similar hops bring. I do however love piney, fruity, floral hop aromas and flavors. the last time I did an IPA someone on homebrew talk suggested that I try First Wort Hopping. I've been reading up a bit on FWH and it seems there is a lot of disagreement on just what it's effect on IBU is. Consensus seems to be that it makes for a more well incorporated hop flavor, which sounds cool to me, but people disagree on whether it adds considerable bitterness. In my mind it seems like it would add whatever IBU would come from a boil of hops for a given amount of time, but that's just me idk. Also dry hops, some people think that it doesn't add any considerable bitterness, others seem to disagree strongly saying there is more to bitterness than just utilization. What do you guys think? I'm kind of copying the dry hopping schedule from this PtY clone but with different hops: http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/pliny-younger-clone-20.html current estimated values for my recipe: 1.099 OG US05 yeast ~11% ABV 92 IBU 9 SRM any hints, tips, criticisms?
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Feb 23, 2014 02:25
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ieatsoap6 posted:Did you put the yeast in the fridge between the batches? I've found that, even if I give them a few hours to warm up, yeast I've had in the fridge take about a day longer to get started than if I bought and used them that day. Never had any issues with fermentation afterwards, though, so you're probably fine Nope, I just put the other half of the starter back into the spare room with the rest of the fermenting stuff. But yeah, as long as it's going now, that's what really matters!
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Feb 23, 2014 03:13
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Any goons have a babby's first Dunkel recipe they'd like to share? Feeling the itch for lagering again.
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Feb 23, 2014 04:40
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GrAviTy84 posted:any hints, tips, criticisms? With that much citra, I hope you've used it before and LOVE IT. It can be very polarizing (see: cat piss). With those hops listed one isn't going to that "piny" so much as fruity/herbal/fresh squeezed grapefruit. You should also take into account the amount of loss from all the hops, you've got a full pound of them by the last addition - keep that in mind. Dry hopping doesn't add perceivable bitterness, it adds a face-full of hops. If you want to smell (& in turn taste) hops, dry hop. FWH is supposed* to give the hops added during that time a more 'even' addition and less harsh. *iirc any hard science is still out on this. also: buy a hop bag, and good luck - post results For my questions/news I think I'm going to build a RIMS tube in 2014 - has any goon itt built one? Have advice, ideas, concerns, etc As well as thinking of a 3/2 tier galvanized stand; anyone have experience there either? Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 23, 2014 |
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Feb 23, 2014 04:57
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GrAviTy84 posted:any hints, tips, criticisms? Pull the hops after each dry hopping round (if you weren't planning on that already). Little shots of the pellets at their most potent, and pulling them so they don't contribute those vegetal off flavors, goes a long way. Also, Citra tastes like pineapple juice to me. Plan accordingly if that's something you want in your beer. Lastly, you may want to add a bit of dimension to the malt bill here - for a TIPA you're beginning to edge on barleywine territory and I think there's no harm in adding a hint of rye or an Amber malt to give it some depth.
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Feb 23, 2014 07:08
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Syrinxx posted:Any goons have a babby's first Dunkel recipe they'd like to share? Feeling the itch for lagering again. This is my go to Dunkel recipe: 46% munich I 46% munich II 5% melanoidin 3% caramunich 75% of your IBUs at 60 min, 25% at 15 min with your favorite German hops. My usuals are hallertauer or tettnanger, but I've used Spalter as well. For an OG of 1.045 I use about 20 IBUs, so just scale that to where you want your gravity. I've used a bunch of different yeasts on this, my favorite being White Labs 830 German Lager/Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager. Supposedly Saflager 34/70 is the same strain if you want dry yeast, but I find it leaves my beers a little less malty than the equivalent liquid strains. Still a very good lager strain though. Make a bigass starter and let it ferment out fully then throw it in the fridge to crash. Decant and pitch at 46-48*, and ferment at 50-54*. I usually ferment for 2 weeks then throw it to room temp 2-3 days before crashing it. Crash it for a few days near 32* then transfer to a secondary or keg to lager. Lager for 2-3 weeks then drink up.
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Feb 23, 2014 12:04
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I've not been happy with my FWH results, but that's because I'm brewing in a completely uncontrolled environment and can't really say "okay if I add them right now while sparging they will be in contact with the hot wort for exactly x minutes before the boil". Sometimes that ends up being an hour, sometimes more than twice that, but it's always longer than it needs to be and the end result shows it. I might try again with non-pale ales with low alpha continental stuff, but I've definitely gone back to just using standard additions for hop heavy beers.
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Feb 23, 2014 16:18
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Question for anyone familiar with the STC-1000. Here's the front of my keezer: http://imgur.com/uqPkxA5 I'm currently using the Johnson controls analog thermostat and I think I want to switch to an STC-1000. Is it basically going to be a drop in replacement with all the necessary wiring already there? It looks like the freezer thermostat in there now is the same style. edit: Just pulled it out, here's what's in there now: http://i.imgur.com/DgxmfA8.jpg and the back http://i.imgur.com/7oZqj9R.jpg Looks pretty self explanatory. Is there anything I need to know before I set myself on fire swapping in an STC-1000? internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Feb 23, 2014 |
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Feb 23, 2014 17:22
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internet celebrity posted:Question for anyone familiar with the STC-1000. Here's the front of my keezer: http://imgur.com/uqPkxA5 Its possible to directly wire it to fridge power either in series with the existing thermostat, or get really enterprising and replace the thermostat. But that's a lot of effort to marry with a specific fridge who's compressor probably won't outlive the thermostat, not that that's a problem anytime soon but still.
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Feb 23, 2014 17:38
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internet celebrity posted:edit: Just pulled it out, here's what's in there now: http://i.imgur.com/DgxmfA8.jpg and the back http://i.imgur.com/7oZqj9R.jpg Assuming the chassis is close to the same size, it ought to be pretty simple. BUT I wonder if the sensor is the same? Also, since the STC-1000 has a heating circuit, are you going to do anything with that side? You just might be able to wire up something pretty clean while you have it open. Can you get lamp cord or something from the slot where the thermostat goes to the inside of the freezer box safely and neatly?
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Feb 23, 2014 17:44
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Jo3sh posted:Assuming the chassis is close to the same size, it ought to be pretty simple. BUT I wonder if the sensor is the same? Also, since the STC-1000 has a heating circuit, are you going to do anything with that side? You just might be able to wire up something pretty clean while you have it open. Can you get lamp cord or something from the slot where the thermostat goes to the inside of the freezer box safely and neatly? I wasn't planning on doing anything with the heating circuit since 95% of the time this thing is being used for serving rather than fermenting. Good point about the sensor though, I see the STC-1000 comes with one so I might run it out through the bottom and in through the collar in the back to avoid drilling into the freezer itself.
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Feb 23, 2014 17:53
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fullroundaction posted:I've not been happy with my FWH results, but that's because I'm brewing in a completely uncontrolled environment and can't really say "okay if I add them right now while sparging they will be in contact with the hot wort for exactly x minutes before the boil". Sometimes that ends up being an hour, sometimes more than twice that, but it's always longer than it needs to be and the end result shows it. What kind of results have you been getting? I'm guessing overly hoppy in some way, but can you be more specific? BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Feb 23, 2014 |
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Feb 23, 2014 19:39
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Way too bitter (due to my IBU calcs being a crapshoot) and things tasting very raw and grassy, almost like you're sucking on a hop pellet. Carbonated hop tea as opposed to beer would be a good analogy, but not nearly that extreme. The beer is definitely still drinkable. E: I want to make it clear I'm not dissing FWH, just that I'm too stupid to do it right on my setup. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 23, 2014 |
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Feb 23, 2014 20:48
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After a marathon two batch bottling session that left me confused about whether or not I had primed, I've had enough of it and am making the plunge into kegging. Kegerator is on the way via Amazon and I picked up two pin locks from the lhbs. The kegs are filthy, so I'm soaking them in Oxy free for a bit. I assume I shouldn't soak the metal for too long - is there a better way to remove what appears to be residual pepsi and mountain dew? Secondly, one of the kegs doesn't have a gas tube on the in, just a poppet. Is this an issue? Lastly, I had assumed that the use of CO2 allowed you to immediately enjoy the beer after fermentation was finished. But I'm reading that you have to force carbonate for a bit. What is the standard waiting time between attaching the CO2 and imbibing?
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Feb 23, 2014 22:19
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It really depends on the method you use. I use the lazy-but slow method of just hooking up the gas at serving pressure (~12PSI) and leaving it alone. This takes a couple of weeks to yield carbed beer. Some people chill the beer, then crank up the regulator to 30 PSI or more for a shorter time (a day or two), then turn it back down to serving pressure and give it another day or two to equalize. Some people chill the beer and shake the gently caress out of the keg with the pressure on at 30PSI, then drop it to serving pressure. This can get you carbed beer in an hour or less. Some people add carbonation stones in their kegs so that gas in injected as fine bubbles and at the bottom of the keg. I'm not sure how much this speed up carbonation, but I'm guessing it's a fair amount.
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Feb 23, 2014 22:26
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Jo3sh posted:It really depends on the method you use. I used to do the second method, and it was generally good to go within a day or two.
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Feb 23, 2014 23:38
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Jacobey000 posted:With that much citra, I hope you've used it before and LOVE IT. It can be very polarizing (see: cat piss). With those hops listed one isn't going to that "piny" so much as fruity/herbal/fresh squeezed grapefruit. You should also take into account the amount of loss from all the hops, you've got a full pound of them by the last addition - keep that in mind. Yeah. I've used citra before. Also in a FWH beer, was the last IPA I brewed and was a single hop IPA (citra). It was cool, though admittedly one dimensional, I wish it had more pineyness. I suppose I can do something else instead of citra in this one and leave fruit bomb duty to mosaic. Maybe just more Columbus? Any other hop ideas? I do remember that beer having a weird kind of dank aftertaste, not so much resinous like Chinook, but, just, weird. I wonder if that was FWH or citra contributing, or a bit of both.
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Feb 24, 2014 00:12
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Today I decided to finally check the accuracy of the temperature probe (an STC-1000) in my fermentation chamber (a chest freezer). I had the probe set in a small mason jar of water as shown below. The heating element is a small ceramic space heater from Amazon. I checked the temperature of the water versus the temperature reading on the STC-1000 and it was accurate (68 F). I then checked the actual temperature of my already-fermented beer. 83 F. What in the poo poo? It was 70 F (as was the chamber) when I placed it in there. I know fermentation generates heat, but not that much. My guess is that it's slowly absorbing heat from the heating cycles, then keeping it as a sort of thermal mass when the water in the probe eventually cools down. So what's the solution here? I've heard of people placing the probe up against the side of the bucket, then wrapping everything with a towel. I'm also thinking of drilling a small hole in the top of bucket lid and dropping the (sanitized) probe directly into the wort from there, but I'm hesitant to do something like that. Thoughts?
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Feb 24, 2014 01:21
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illcendiary posted:Today I decided to finally check the accuracy of the temperature probe (an STC-1000) in my fermentation chamber (a chest freezer). I had the probe set in a small mason jar of water as shown below. The heating element is a small ceramic space heater from Amazon. Syrinxx fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 01:31
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illcendiary posted:Today I decided to finally check the accuracy of the temperature probe (an STC-1000) in my fermentation chamber (a chest freezer). I had the probe set in a small mason jar of water as shown below. The heating element is a small ceramic space heater from Amazon. E. Reading comprehension kicked in and saw you have the heater set up too. If you have the hysteresis set to 0.5 still its probably swinging like crazy cause the compressor time lets it cool poo poo off to the point the heater kicks on, then the heater stays hot after it turns off and its swinging hard back up. zedprime fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 01:33
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Thanks both of you for the help. Syrinxx, yeah, it really was that high, I set the probe in both volumes of water. Really disheartening since this was my first all-grain batch and the actual brew day went really well. I guess we'll see how the hot fermentation affected things. I think I need to change my heat source, as you stated. How was this resistor set up? zedprime, yeah my F2 value was the default, 0.5, so it makes sense that the constant cycling would potentially introduce excess heat to the system. I'm setting the F2 value a little higher (I'll probably set it at 2, up from 0.5) and increasing the cycle time (F3) from 2 to 7 minutes. I'm also going to leave the heating element unplugged for a few hours to let the system remain cool for a little bit. I'll plug it back in later tonight so that the beer doesn't accidentally freeze or anything, though I imagine this won't be as big of a problem with the probe in water instead of the tub of wort. My next beer is going to be an Enjoy By clone (16 1 oz bags of hops for a 5 gallon batch!) that I'm really excited about, so I want to make sure this is taken care of before then. Thanks all for the help.
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Feb 24, 2014 01:46
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GrAviTy84 posted:Yeah. I've used citra before. Also in a FWH beer, was the last IPA I brewed and was a single hop IPA (citra). It was cool, though admittedly one dimensional, I wish it had more pineyness. I suppose I can do something else instead of citra in this one and leave fruit bomb duty to mosaic. Maybe just more Columbus? Any other hop ideas? Simcoe if you can get it, or Centennial, are two workhorse hops for American IPA's.
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Feb 24, 2014 02:11
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I finally remembered to take a photo of my sour quad for your pellicle fans. Love the tiny brown bubbles. As a side note - the hydromel that got lacto-infected taste loving amazing right now, yay for happy accidents!
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Feb 24, 2014 03:42
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illcendiary posted:How was this resistor set up? 
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Feb 24, 2014 05:11
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Finally snagged a pack of WYeast Belgian Saison, so I can make my Peppercorn Saison Mead (braggot). This going hand in hand with March's homebrew round of an IPA, as well as bottling my Lambic mead and filling up that carboy with something. Should be a very busy couple months of brewing for me. Which is awesome because my carboys have been locked down with mead (one is out of commission because there's no where to put it) for a while and I can finally start to use all that honey I got for Christmas. The list of crap I want to make has grown so severely I may never get to it all. March: 3 Gallon 60 minute IPA w/ Admiral citra and cascade 1 Gallon Peppercorn Saison Mead 1 Gallon Lambic Mead (2nd generation bugs, may also pitch with extra lacto harvested from Trader Joe's yogurt) April 3 Gallon Rye Saison Hopefully able to bottle Blackberry crush mead and start a 1 gallon strawberry Joe's Ancient Variant May and beyond I won't even try to predict. Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 16:32
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Bloody Viking (Juniper Rye Imperial Red Ale) finished completely, took abit longer in the bottle as it had a slight heat to it after 3 weeks in the bottle. A great dryness from the juniper berries but its not bone dry (FG on one was 1.013 other was 1.010). Subtle juniper aftertaste with the dryness from the juniper (the dryness from the juniper is more notable then the juniper taste, alot of the juniper got sent out in the ferment so will use more next time around). Slight spiciness from the rye malt and a good bit of malt taste but the front and centre is the bitterness (not over bitter at all though) and hops. The one with Burton Ale (8.9% one) has a slight yeasty fruityness at the start. The one with Whitelab Cali I (9.3% one) is more clean and lets the malt/rye/juniper do a little bit more talking (but still hoppy). However its still got a bit of heat to it which I am going to give another 2-4weeks, but the 8.9% is ready and drinkable! Going to most likely use 2% more carared malt next time.  And here is an update on the beer label my friend is doing for me:  The (not smoked but was melt to be smoked) coffee porter will be ready in about 2weeks, same for the isle jura oak porter! Marshmallow Blue posted:Finally snagged a pack of WYeast Belgian Saison, so I can make my Peppercorn Saison Mead (braggot). This going hand in hand with March's homebrew round of an IPA, as well as bottling my Lambic mead and filling up that carboy with something. Sounds awesome man! Whats your grain % of rye going to be for that Rye Saison by the way? Love the sound of a rye saison!Also on the chemical talk, I personally use starsan to sanitize everything after boil. I use PBW to clean out the fermenters after I've bottled the beer. Fluo fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 17:32
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Fluo posted:
I've never used Rye, but I read that I can use up to 50% for "rye" Beers. It's, 2Lbs Belgian Pale Malt 3 Lbs Rye Malt 1 lb Wheat DME Figured If was gonna go Rye, I was gonna go all in to the max. Also those beers above look pretty tasty, what do the bottles with labels on them look like?
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Feb 24, 2014 17:36
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I've never used Rye, but I read that I can use up to 50% for "rye" Beers. It's, Awesome! My juniper rye only had about 23% rye (7.4% crystal rye, 14.8% rye malt), will most likely reduce the maris otter by 10% and up the rye malt by 10%. To see how it turns out!  Not put the labels on my bottles yet as the label isn't finished yet, my mate is doing a wrap around style label.
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Feb 24, 2014 17:40
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Fluo posted:
Beautiful beer. I'm jealous. I have always butchered the SRM of any Red I've tried to brew.
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Feb 24, 2014 17:43
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LeeMajors posted:Beautiful beer. I'm jealous. I have always butchered the SRM of any Red I've tried to brew. Yeah this was my first try at it but I got warned to start low so next time you can slightly increase it. It's seen as cheating by some people but I used the newish malt Carared, I 100% recommend using this next time! For an idea it would have been a golden pale colour without carared, I used 3.7%. Thinking of increasing slightly to 4%-4.5% next time to see how it turns out. Generally they say 5-10% (but you can use up to 25% but I think that's abit over the top), I guess the higher % is more ideal for darker beers like doppelbocks, porters etc. Gives a great red tint as you can see but using a crappy old digital camera I can't show the full colour experience.  It gives:
Fluo fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Feb 24, 2014 |
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Feb 24, 2014 17:52
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Fluo posted:Thanks man! I've tried to build an Aspen Brewing Co. Conundrum Clone (Hoppy Irish Red) for like 5 years and every time my SRM gets fuckered into an amberish, or light brown mess. I'll give that a shot though.
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Feb 24, 2014 18:07
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I'm using some CaraRed in that 60 minute IPA I'm doing, I'd be pleased as punch if it came out a really nice red. but as Lee Majors said it always comes out brown. So I'm hoping this works.
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Feb 24, 2014 18:14
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If it helps the SRM was 14.1, to give you an idea:code:
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Feb 24, 2014 18:49
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