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wtftastic posted:There are slow feeder bowls, and you could also try freezing her kibble into a kong (with PB or broth or something) or freeze some really stinky smelly wet food into the kong. I mentioned I already do the kong thing and she loses interest maybe an inch in to the kong, even less so if its frozen. I was looking for a specific recommendation for a slow feeder bowl, since they all seem to be 20+ dollars and I'd rather not waste the money on a crappy one.
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Feb 22, 2014 00:44
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Sherlock hated getting food out of Kongs at first. Then I got him the tiny tiny one and now he really likes it. It took some work to get him into liking them but it's pretty sweet now.
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Feb 22, 2014 00:46
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I've had good luck with putting a tennis ball in the bowl as ALL recommends. You could also put a couple kibbles in each cup of a muffin tin with tennis balls on top of them or hide the meal in her bedding.
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Feb 22, 2014 01:34
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If I presented Kalli with a bowl of food & a ball in, I'm pretty sure her little brain would just implode
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Feb 22, 2014 10:39
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Fraction posted:If I presented Kalli with a bowl of food & a ball in, I'm pretty sure her little brain would just implode Jada would immediately eat the ball and wonder why you're giving kibble as well. Then we'd only be able to treat her by giving her torn up pieces of tennis ball. It's a vicious cycle.
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Feb 24, 2014 15:00
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I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- Pet deposit Adoption Fee (includes neuter, vaccinations) Crate Doggy bed Food Leash and collar Pet insurance Bowl Brush Clicker Maybe a training book? There seem to be so many online resources that seems a little superfluous. Anyway estimating the cost at around 700 total, that seems cheap considering other estimates I've seen. Am I missing anything ?
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Feb 25, 2014 07:17
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Sharzak posted:I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- More options (not necessary by any means, but all useful): Nail trimmer or dremel (or both) Metal comb as well as slicker brush Dog shampoo Harness (if not already well leash-trained, a no-pull is a good stopgap) car harness (or car crate, or car barrier and seat cover) Training classes Toys (recommended variety: some sort of ball, some sort of tug, something squeaky, something stuffed. Cheap is good to start with, then buy more of whatever your dog likes to play with) Treats Chews (at least a Kong) Cheap fleece blankets (easy to clean, good to have around) Dog towels Baby gate/exercise pen
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Feb 25, 2014 07:46
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Sharzak posted:I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- Engineer Lenk covered all the other stuff, but I figured I would input that we spent about 200 dollars on all of our supplies. Also depending on the age of the dog, it might be worth considering picking up the puppy starter kit from petsmart. It's basically just a coupon book, but it ended up saving us 50 dollars when we were getting set up. It's only 20 dollars, and comes with a coupon for a free bag of food up to 15 dollars, so that pretty much pays for itself. Here's a link, but I would just pick it up in the store because for some reason shipping on it is like 6 bucks(lolno): http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=25015476
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Feb 25, 2014 07:56
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So we've started gentle leader training with our pup. We were training her on yield in the summer but with the winter walks are a little more scarce and indoor playtime is at an all time high. She seems to endure the collar for the first little while but as we are walking I notice she'll keep pawing at her face or running into a snowbank and rubbing her face into it. Is this something that she will eventually stop doing as she becomes more accustomed to the gentle leader? Or are there any suggestions to help her through this? I must say at 10 months old our dog is extremely well behaved. Could just be the calm before the storm but I keep on getting compliments on how much of an angel she is. First dog so no idea what sort of behavior I should expect some days. This thread is mostly to thank for the training tips though!
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Feb 25, 2014 15:28
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Pulling Teeth posted:Can anyone here give me advice with training with distractions? I have an 18 week old Cairn terrier pup who is an absolute joy, and progressing really well in his training. He walks well on a loose leash (most of the time), heels and stays on his walks, and generally has the most wonderful time out and about. Thanks for posting this. I have a two and a half year old Cairn terrier named Oskee who is awesome 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time, he's on his leash and turns into a hellion. If we're walking by ourselves, or with dogs that he knows, he is just fine. If he is on his leash and meeting a new dog, he sniffs them for a few seconds and then starts barking/growling/snipping at them. It's super embarrassing on walks. If we go to the dog park, for the most part Oskee is just fine off his leash with meeting new dogs. Occasionally he will find one he doesn't like and will bark at them, but I can get him to walk away from that and it's not an issue the next time they meet, and fortunately most people are understanding. I'm trying to cure this embarrassing behavior and will try the treat method. My wife just says "Oh that's just Oskee, that's just how he is" but gently caress that, he can change. He knows quite a few commands and tricks, and he's figured out how to escape his crate even if the door is closed and latched, so I know he's smart enough to figure this out. He likes other people, he is super well behaved around people, and on walks will just walk up to them with no problem and say hi, it's just other dogs. I decided to try and curb this behavior because last night our neighbors took their two dogs out to go to the bathroom the same time that I took Oskee out. Their dogs were very well trained and were staying by their owner's side, even off leash, and then walked up to Oskee to say hi because hey, new dog! Oskee sniffed for a few seconds and then turned batshit crazy, and now they probably think we are terrible dog owners or something. Of course I apologized for his behavior, but I'm sick of apologizing for it and just want to fix it. Edit - Whoa, I posted way more than I originally planned on. americanzero4128 fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 16:11
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m.hache posted:So we've started gentle leader training with our pup. We were training her on yield in the summer but with the winter walks are a little more scarce and indoor playtime is at an all time high. Did you do any desensitization/counter-conditioning first? I personally don't like Gentle Leaders that much. I prefer a no-pull harness, but if I have to go the head halter route I would choose something where the leash attaches at the back of the head (like a New Trix). I see dogs at work who still try to rub off their GLs even after years of having them put on. This video may be helpful to you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wakterNyUg
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Feb 25, 2014 16:25
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americanzero4128 posted:Thanks for posting this. I have a two and a half year old Cairn terrier named Oskee who is awesome 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time, he's on his leash and turns into a hellion. If we're walking by ourselves, or with dogs that he knows, he is just fine. If he is on his leash and meeting a new dog, he sniffs them for a few seconds and then starts barking/growling/snipping at them. It's super embarrassing on walks. If we go to the dog park, for the most part Oskee is just fine off his leash with meeting new dogs. Occasionally he will find one he doesn't like and will bark at them, but I can get him to walk away from that and it's not an issue the next time they meet, and fortunately most people are understanding. I'm trying to cure this embarrassing behavior and will try the treat method. See a dog -> cue -> focus only on me and not on the environment is mostly a management technique; it requires you to be proactive. It does not decrease leash reactivity in a number of dogs that I've seen. I prefer to use Look At That because I think it works better and it makes the environmental triggers into a game rather than something that you're trying desperately to keep them from seeing. In terms of polite greetings, I'd recommend a CGC class to learn how to be near other dogs on leash while you meet with their owner and not letting him 'say hi'. Any tension on the leash will mess with dogs' natural body language - it makes them come in with more energy in straight lines (a fairly aggressive posture). Beyond that, if your dog is already stressed, any touch or pressure is likely to make him react - including a tug on the leash. Many clueless owners with 'friendly' dogs have anything but that - their dogs come in with high energy, tower over little dogs and sniff intrusively, then are 'friendly' because they bounce into a play bow. My terrier mix will have none of this - she escalates from a freeze with whale eye to a snarl to a snap, but she pauses at each step. Dogs who are appropriate will see her signs and back off. When I let her greet a bigger dog (on-leash or off), I'm picky about who she interacts with and I keep the whole thing very short, calling her away before she can get upset. If a dog comes by that I don't want her to meet, I put myself between her and the other dog and ask the owner to call them away or stay back. If you want to let him greet and don't want to let him practice bad behavior, work on greetings that last no more than two seconds. He goes, gets a sniff, then you walk on and give him a treat.
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Feb 25, 2014 17:40
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Sharzak posted:I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- You'll probably want to plan for a visit with your vet after adoption even though the dog has already been vaccinated. Its a good chance to start a relationship with your vet and make sure your new dog doesn't have any major health problems the rescue might have missed. My dog ended up having a massive yeast infection all over himself and because I got him to the vet right away after adopting him the rescue offered to help pay for the treatment.
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Feb 25, 2014 19:09
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Sharzak posted:I'm trying to get a handle on what it is going to cost day one to bring a rescue doggie home. Would like to hear about anything I'm missing as far as initial cost outlay-- Flea/tick and heartworm medication! Depends on when they last got it, but it is good to have that stuff on hand ahead of time
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Feb 25, 2014 20:18
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cryingscarf posted:Flea/tick and heartworm medication! Depends on when they last got it, but it is good to have that stuff on hand ahead of time Get this from your Vet. Never get over the counter stuff.
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Feb 25, 2014 20:51
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When I last did the math Tater's first year was about $3,000. Over half of that however was from when he swallowed That Goddamned Duck, and there was probably $300 in other vet visits I should have taken care of myself in hindsight. Realistically you can count on a thousand for the first year with potential for lots of variation.
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Feb 25, 2014 21:09
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Engineer Lenk posted:See a dog -> cue -> focus only on me and not on the environment is mostly a management technique; it requires you to be proactive. It does not decrease leash reactivity in a number of dogs that I've seen. I prefer to use Look At That because I think it works better and it makes the environmental triggers into a game rather than something that you're trying desperately to keep them from seeing. Thanks, this is really helpful. I'll try your last suggestion first, and if the short greeting training doesn't work, I'll look at the CGC class.
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Feb 25, 2014 22:23
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Couple of questions: Would crate training a puppy in one crate translate/generalize at least a bit easier to another crate? I always have lots of downtime at the doggy daycare I work graveyards at, where I could work on crate games with one at work, but since I work long hours I'm normally asleep most of the day until I have to go to work again, so I havent had the energy to do much consistent work at home(plus there is currently a chicken in it. Long story). How about from an xpen to crate, or just being more okay being alone in general? My shiba puppy Aiko is showing beginning signs of separation anxiety(mostly just whining when I leave the room) so we want to nip it in the bud and I've heard crate training helps with that. I just watched a kikopup video on SA where she recommended using an xpen (which I have at work, need to get one for home but she mostly chills on the bed since she won't soil there). In the xpen she's cool being alone for about 80-90% of my shift but eventually starts whining and barking at me if I'm in eyesight. The rest of the time she either chews on one of her chews/kongs/etc, or sleeps. Tl; Dr: would crate training in one crate at one location translate and/or help with the learning curve of learning at her home crate? How about an x pen to crate/being more okay being alone in general?
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Feb 26, 2014 03:34
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Seb has developed a limp, almost a lameness at times in his back right leg. It is only really noticeable during or after running and causes him no visible pain or discomfort, but I have noticed him taking a bit more effort to stand up at time. It could be a sprain, could be something more serious. It has gotten to the point where he really has no place to run outside, everything is still covered in 6" of snow with an icy layer on top that you may or may not fall through, in addition to being pitted by footprints etc. We stopped running at the park last week due to that, but he very well could have just sprained it there prior to that, I've noticed it for about 2 weeks now. I have a vet appointment this saturday to get it looked at, but in the meantime I have a seemingly impossible task- keep him from running too much or too hard. He still just has too much energy and he is getting quite bored, which means he starts looking for trouble. Any suggestions on other things I can do to wear him out without putting much stress on his back legs? We play tug, but he can drat near pull me over and I know that power is all coming from his back legs. 7 months now, just cracked 60lbs 
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Feb 26, 2014 15:59
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My puppy has not had shots yet. I got a mushroom log as a gift. It's a log you soak in water and it grows shiitake mushrooms on it. I was wondering if spores would be bad for puppies.
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Feb 26, 2014 17:43
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So, we never got a puppy around New Years...we just couldn't work out the timing with meeting the breeders/dog etc, but our breeder of choice http://www.jonniedanes.com/#!our-danes/c4l have another litter planned for April and we met up with them and their dogs yesterday, which was totally awesome. They currently have 4 Great Danes at home, (3 bitches, 1 male). The main dame, Story was in heat, so they were keeping her and Levi (the stud) separate. Amazing dogs and it just confirmed our choice...now we just have to wait 4 months!.
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Feb 26, 2014 20:01
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bimmian posted:I have a vet appointment this saturday to get it looked at, but in the meantime I have a seemingly impossible task- keep him from running too much or too hard. He still just has too much energy and he is getting quite bored, which means he starts looking for trouble. Any suggestions on other things I can do to wear him out without putting much stress on his back legs? We play tug, but he can drat near pull me over and I know that power is all coming from his back legs. Try wearing him out mentally with things like puzzle toys and frozen Kongs. Trick training can also be really useful for this. That's what I've always done when I had to keep a high-energy dog quiet and it helps a lot.
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Feb 26, 2014 22:11
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Abutiu posted:Try wearing him out mentally with things like puzzle toys and frozen Kongs. Trick training can also be really useful for this. That's what I've always done when I had to keep a high-energy dog quiet and it helps a lot. Haven't seen you around, hope everything's improving. How's Abutiu?
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Feb 26, 2014 22:21
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Things are getting better, thanks.  Abutiu is having some trouble dealing with our current situation (staying with my mom while I figure out what I want to do), but she's doing pretty well. I'm spending extra time working with her to help her deal so she's loving that aspect of things!
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Feb 27, 2014 01:09
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I adopted an 11 month old German Shepherd beagle mix yesterday.    She's pretty well house trained and very friendly and somewhat polite with new people but other dogs don't seem to like her very much. She usually approaches very friendly-like with a wagging tail but other dogs seem to generally flatten their backs, drop their tails, and show their teeth. She was according to the shelter not socialized very well. Her medical records say she is a "dominant dog." I'm meeting with a couple trainers soon but I don't know why other dogs are reacting this way. The only thing I can think of is she had an FHO about six weeks ago (I think? Surgery for a dislocated hip, basically) and does this sort of hopalong thing when she's exercised it too much. I seem to vaguely remember dogs not treating injured dogs well, is that the a thing? Also she pulls very hard on walks, I bought an Easy Walk harness, those are okay right? Gay Horney fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 27, 2014 |
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Feb 27, 2014 02:28
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Steve Yun posted:My puppy has not had shots yet. It's incredibly doubtful, unless the dog has some weird allergy. It's one of those things that I'd not leave around for the dog to chew on, but I wouldn't let that stop me from soaking it and putting it into a safe place to bear mushrooms.
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Feb 27, 2014 02:55
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Sharzak posted:She's pretty well house trained and very friendly and somewhat polite with new people but other dogs don't seem to like her very much. She usually approaches very friendly-like with a wagging tail but other dogs seem to generally flatten their backs, drop their tails, and show their teeth. She was according to the shelter not socialized very well. Her medical records say she is a "dominant dog." I'm meeting with a couple trainers soon but I don't know why other dogs are reacting this way. It's entirely possible that your dog is giving off very rude signals when she greets. Suzanne Clothier described it way better than I could here (about halfway in, when she's talking about the Sheltie). If this is the way she's coming off to other dogs, it's your job to manage her interactions with other dogs very carefully until she can learn some better behaviors. E: My terrier is a little poo poo to smaller dogs. She gets a very high tail, comes in straight and sticks her head on their shoulder, then bounces into a play bow. I interrupt this every time she meets a little dog, because I haven't met one who likes it. Easy walk works fine. Engineer Lenk fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Feb 27, 2014 |
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Feb 27, 2014 04:58
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I'm very open to the idea of it being her fault. This has happened at a distance where it would be impossible for her to be invading another dog's space but other dogs have held off until she gets much closer and starts sniffing. She's always very excited to see other dogs. How can I correct this rude behavior from my puppy ? If she needs to get snapped at in order to learn personal boundaries so be it, but I'd rather avoid a harmful situation for my dog and the potential embarrassment. She's 11 months but, like I said, she didn't have great socializing experience according to the shelter. Would playing with younger dogs help? Edit--when I say she's excited to see other dogs I mean pretty much exactly what she was talking about in that article. She wants to say hi to every dog she sees and pulls on the leash. Before she gets very close often the other dog will begin to pin their ears back and give her a "stay away" stare so I end up dragging her away from the other dog to avoid the impending altercation. When this doesn't happen and the other owner is okay with it (this only happened once today) I let her approach but the other dog ended up yelping and leaping away anyhow. Gay Horney fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Feb 27, 2014 |
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Feb 27, 2014 05:37
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Sharzak posted:I'm very open to the idea of it being her fault. This has happened at a distance where it would be impossible for her to be invading another dog's space but other dogs have held off until she gets much closer and starts sniffing. She's always very excited to see other dogs. It's not about space, it's about the signals she's giving off. Polite dog greetings involve loose body language and curvy paths. If a dog is coming up straight with their head and tail up, that will cause other dogs to react at a distance. I would manage it with strange dogs, call her away before she can provoke the reaction. I wouldn't let her play much with smaller or younger dogs, because I think it's more likely that she'd scare them or teach them bad manners. Ideally you want to find an older dog who gives exactly the correction needed and no more. If she's going to return fire then I would give it up and only let her play with other non-socialized dogs with a similar play style. Divert and break up play frequently, to keep them from going over threshold.
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Feb 27, 2014 06:24
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americanzero4128 posted:Thanks for posting this. I have a two and a half year old Cairn terrier named Oskee who is awesome 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time, he's on his leash and turns into a hellion. If we're walking by ourselves, or with dogs that he knows, he is just fine. If he is on his leash and meeting a new dog, he sniffs them for a few seconds and then starts barking/growling/snipping at them. It's super embarrassing on walks. If we go to the dog park, for the most part Oskee is just fine off his leash with meeting new dogs. Occasionally he will find one he doesn't like and will bark at them, but I can get him to walk away from that and it's not an issue the next time they meet, and fortunately most people are understanding. I'm trying to cure this embarrassing behavior and will try the treat method. No problem. I'm just glad to see another Cairn owner - they are seriously the greatest little dogs. Mine (Robbie) does not act aggressively towards other dogs at all, so I don't think we have exactly the same problem; I am just working on keeping him focused and calm. I've found it's easier to try and do this at a distance - work out the distance they can be from a distraction without losing focus and then work on improving from there.
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Feb 27, 2014 11:15
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cryingscarf posted:Flea/tick and heartworm medication! Depends on when they last got it, but it is good to have that stuff on hand ahead of time Could you expand on this? Is it an issue of price, efficacy, or something else? We need to resupply for our dogs and were thinking about hitting up Amazon or something similar instead.
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Feb 27, 2014 19:03
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quote:
It's fine to get brand names from the store or amazon. Avoid hartz and other "bargain" brands. There is one generic that is safe that came out a couple years ago but I've completely forgotten the name of it.
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Feb 27, 2014 19:32
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I usually see the bargain flea meds not really work all that well. Then it makes it less likely for people to believe me their animal has a flea reaction. If there are any medications that could have a guarantee with them (like heartworm preventative, vaccines), buying them from not a vet means that guarantee is void. If animals contract Heartworms on preventative then the companies tend to pay for part of treatment. Similar with Parvo and dogs with vaccinations.
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Feb 27, 2014 20:36
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Kerfuffle posted:Could you expand on this? Is it an issue of price, efficacy, or something else? We need to resupply for our dogs and were thinking about hitting up Amazon or something similar instead. quote:It's fine to get brand names from the store or amazon. Avoid hartz and other "bargain" brands. There is one generic that is safe that came out a couple years ago but I've completely forgotten the name of it. The generic for Frontline is Sentry Fiproguard (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24295). I've used this and the non generic Frontline with no problems. Its made from the same active ingredients, so it should be just as effective. wtftastic fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Feb 27, 2014 |
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Feb 27, 2014 20:53
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Frontline doesn't work for me anymore in my area. Not sure about others. I use Advantix 2 instead.
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Feb 27, 2014 22:11
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wtftastic posted:The generic for Frontline is Sentry Fiproguard (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=24295). I've used this and the non generic Frontline with no problems. Its made from the same active ingredients, so it should be just as effective. Do you have any recommendations for heartworm meds?
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Feb 28, 2014 01:46
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Crumps Brother posted:
Your vet will also be up to date on which flea meds work in your area. m.hache fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Feb 28, 2014 |
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Feb 28, 2014 04:05
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6-Ethyl Bearcat posted:The grade is pretty important when determining what to do afaik. The mildest cases may not require surgery, and the most extreme cases may not either since they pop in and out of place so freely that they don't cause the dog much or any pain. It's the 2/3 grade ones that cause the most problems because they can get caught out of place etc. I took the dog to a specialist who said that she had grade 2 (he didn't do an x-ray and I forgot to ask why) on both her hind legs. He explained how the surgery worked and that it was usually 95% successful and would cost me between $2300-3000 (just for one leg) depending on if there were any other problems. Since the first vet I saw was a mobil vet (and gave us the advice for free) I think I'm going to go get another second opinion. For some reason I feel that the specialist was honest with me and probably could determine the grade without performing an x-ray but I still want another opinion. Besides that I'm not sure what I want to do. I want the best for my dog, that's all I know. The only thing I've done at home since I found out about this was block her access to the stairs and areas of the house that aren't carpeted. Her breed may have been designed to be lap dogs but she loves to run and play. Right now it doesn't seem to bother her and we've only noticed temporary limping on her right leg. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:20
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Rurutia posted:Do you have any recommendations for heartworm meds? I just buy regular old heartgard, the stuff you get from your vet, because its cheap and works. I would talk to your vet about this, since heartworms are nothing to mess with.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:31
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The mobil vet used to suggest us heartgard (dirt cheap) but the last time we went they were trying to sell us another kind of medication that covered all of the things heartgard did as well as hookworms and fleas. It was somewhat more expensive but I didn't try to calculate the cost vs heartgard because we have so much heartgard/flea meds saved up that it didn't matter.
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Feb 28, 2014 17:41
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