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Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E
Hmm, I guess technology marches forward.

I'm still nostalgic about using older 'softer' and more abberations lenses on FF so I guess I should just stick with the older Sigma HSM EX.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I don't know... I've seen plenty of pictures of 80mm/2.8 on MF shot wide open. They have a shallow DOF, which however has sort of a "distinct" sharpness. I like that sort of look, the hard sharpness of the subjects in focus in contrast to the bokeh. But I'm not sure if current cameras can replicate it well enough, despite a sharp lens, given the antialias filter on the sensor.

That said, that page only links two test pictures, still remains to be seen how the lens performs practically. For all we know, despite being sharp as hell, the bokeh might look like utter crap.

Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E
I might sell this:



(The lens on the left) Don't you love how small it is compared to a AF 50/1.4?

Its a Minolta MD 50/1.2...BUT...Its been professionally mount converted (not adapted, infinity works of course) to Sony Alpha and chipped so it registers as 50mm for in body IS , works with focus confirm and reports the wide open aperture correctly. It just doesn't support AF (obviously) and doesn't support auto exposure unless shooting wide open as there is no working aperture linkage but you can still shoot at smaller f-stops by using manual exposure or with auto metering and exposure compensation but thats kind of a PIA.

So does anyone think theres any market for it given the current A-mount landscape? I built this back in 2008 when there were zero FF A mount cameras except for Minolta film bodies. I've been sitting on it for 6 years now not using it since I switched systems to Nikon.

Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Mar 1, 2014

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Shaocaholica posted:

Just looked up the Otus. WTF is this supposed to mean?

"With the highest contrast performance over the entire image field, even at an aperture of f/1.4, this lens offers the spectacular medium format look when working with a modern SLR camera."

From the Zeiss product page. Do MF lenses naturally have more contrast? That sounds really dubious. Plus its not like contrast is all that big of a deal in the digital age of contrast and local contrast sliders to the rescue.

I think it's more of how the focus falls off quickly past the depth of field, so there's more separation between subject and the background.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Can you actually influence that via the optical design?

timrenzi574
Sep 11, 2001

Combat Pretzel posted:

Can you actually influence that via the optical design?

Once you've spent four grand on a 50mm lens you'll swear you can.

SoundMonkey
Apr 22, 2006

I just push buttons.


Combat Pretzel posted:

Can you actually influence that via the optical design?

The Nikon DC lenses do a bunch of witchcraft along these very lines.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Combat Pretzel posted:

Can you actually influence that via the optical design?

I'm no expert in optical design but I would say yes. Anyway, the Otus 55/1.4 was based off the optical design of the Hasselblad Zeiss 50/4 medium format lens so maybe there's something in that.

Quantum of Phallus
Dec 27, 2010

Petapixel have a review of the Otus up, it DOES look great but 4k for a lens with no AF? :cmon:

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Combat Pretzel posted:

Can you actually influence that via the optical design?

I'm fairly certain that the size that an out of focus spot makes on the sensor is entirely determined by the focal length, aperture, and distances involved, so, in my opinion, no it is not possible to influence that via the design. You can, however, mess with the shape of the out of focus spot, and how harsh/smooth the spot's edges are. Particularly smooth bokeh can make it seem like the background is more out of focus than with harsh bokeh.

There's a lot of aesthetic trickery that's used in making cameras and lenses to try to get around physical limitations.

IanTheM
May 22, 2007
He came from across the Atlantic. . .

Quantum of Phallus posted:

Petapixel have a review of the Otus up, it DOES look great but 4k for a lens with no AF? :cmon:

The FE 55/1.8 for the A7 is almost as sharp and has AF.

XTimmy
Nov 28, 2007
I am Jacks self hatred
Long shot: I have a Zeiss ZF 50mm f1.4 That I bought from our very own trade thread. Lens in mint and is great for indie video work where a proper cine camera isn't available. My current issue is that I got an EF adapter from Fotodiox after much research and while it mount/unmounts easily enough I'm a little worried about a couple of things. Firstly the infinity hard-stop on the lens seems 'past' infinity, in that I have to focus back a little to achieve infinity, this isn't the case on a Nikon body. Secondly the lens seems a little soft, I'm worried that this might be a dud adapter and I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar issues, hopefully someone has the same set up since ZF 50mms are like baby's first manual focus lens.

Quantum of Phallus posted:

Petapixel have a review of the Otus up, it DOES look great but 4k for a lens with no AF? :cmon:
Never look at cine glass prices.

XTimmy fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Mar 2, 2014

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

XTimmy posted:

Long shot: I have a Zeiss ZF 50mm f1.4 That I bought from our very own trade thread. Lens in mint and is great for indie video work where a proper cine camera isn't available. My current issue is that I got an EF adapter from Fotodiox after much research and while it mount/unmounts easily enough I'm a little worried about a couple of things. Firstly the infinity hard-stop on the lens seems 'past' infinity, in that I have to focus back a little to achieve infinity, this isn't the case on a Nikon body. Secondly the lens seems a little soft, I'm worried that this might be a dud adapter and I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar issues, hopefully someone has the same set up since ZF 50mms are like baby's first manual focus lens.

Some lenses focus back past infinity as a compensation for tolerance for the lens expanding in the sun's heat, but it's usually just a bit. Not sure if this is the case for your lens. With regards to the soft part, the 50/1.4 is known to be intentionally somewhat soft wide open, due to the design of the lens.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

ShadeofBlue posted:

I'm fairly certain that the size that an out of focus spot makes on the sensor is entirely determined by the focal length, aperture, and distances involved, so, in my opinion, no it is not possible to influence that via the design. You can, however, mess with the shape of the out of focus spot, and how harsh/smooth the spot's edges are. Particularly smooth bokeh can make it seem like the background is more out of focus than with harsh bokeh.
Smoothing the bokeh works by apodization, i.e. a radial gradient that goes from a clear center to an opaque edge, the fall-off following gaussian distribution. Ideally, this filter would be near the diaphragm, but apparently screw-on filters work, too, if you want buttery smooth bokeh. The other way around also works, except you can't turn the center completely opaque. Attentuating it one stop already helps making sharper bokeh that tends towards faint onion rings. I've yet to find screw-on apodization filters on this side of the Atlantic ocean, tho. But I know they exist.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord
It's time for me to buy my first decent tripod. I have a budget of roughly $200-250. Would these be recommended, or can I get better within my budget?

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-496...rds=496RC2+head

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-190...rds=496RC2+head

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

XTimmy posted:

Long shot: I have a Zeiss ZF 50mm f1.4 That I bought from our very own trade thread. Lens in mint and is great for indie video work where a proper cine camera isn't available. My current issue is that I got an EF adapter from Fotodiox after much research and while it mount/unmounts easily enough I'm a little worried about a couple of things. Firstly the infinity hard-stop on the lens seems 'past' infinity, in that I have to focus back a little to achieve infinity, this isn't the case on a Nikon body. Secondly the lens seems a little soft, I'm worried that this might be a dud adapter and I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar issues, hopefully someone has the same set up since ZF 50mms are like baby's first manual focus lens.

Never look at cine glass prices.

Cheap adapters also generally get machined with a little extra on them. If you can't be bothered to be precise enough to ensure perfect flange distance, you're better off erring on the side of caution so that the lens focuses past infinity.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

Dr. Lenin posted:

It's time for me to buy my first decent tripod. I have a budget of roughly $200-250. Would these be recommended, or can I get better within my budget?

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-496...rds=496RC2+head

http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-190...rds=496RC2+head

They'll both be fine for your needs. I would suggest looking at something with an Arca-Swiss type clamp and not Manfrotto, just for the fact that it offers you much more flexibility in terms of mounting plates.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-SBH-...llhead+vanguard

SybilVimes
Oct 29, 2011

grack posted:

They'll both be fine for your needs. I would suggest looking at something with an Arca-Swiss type clamp and not Manfrotto, just for the fact that it offers you much more flexibility in terms of mounting plates.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-SBH-...llhead+vanguard

And once you're onto the arca swiss system you have more options for upgrading, whereas there's often a tendancy to stay manfrotto because 'that's what head I have, and I don't want to buy new plates...'

Personally I'd suggest reading Thom Hogan's article on tripods here:

http://www.bythom.com/support.htm

I found myself repeating the circle of tripod buying he writes about, and this time decided to skip to the end, and ended up with a really high end Markin head on Fisol legs, with no central column or fancy conversion (I have separate arm mounts that I can attach for when I do want to do macro on odd height/position stuff, and not compromise my stability for other stuff).

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

SybilVimes posted:

And once you're onto the arca swiss system you have more options for upgrading, whereas there's often a tendancy to stay manfrotto because 'that's what head I have, and I don't want to buy new plates...'

Seriously just buy an Arca-Swiss setup. I shoot some big heavy stuff so I went with an Arca-Swiss B1 and it's been great. I get L-brackets for my favorite gear and it's super easy to mount and dismount and it's done fine even with heavy slappy poo poo like my Pentax 67. You're gonna pay at least $100 for something worthwhile, probably $150, or for $120 (old version) to $225 you can future-proof and be done with it. If you're not hiking and trying to save every ounce you'll never notice a difference.

Particularly a good ballhead. You set up the legs once per shot but you fiddle with the head constantly. You can get away just fine with some sturdy older tripods (Leitz Tiltall, etc) or just something that's heavy as poo poo, the main reason to buy a modern whiz-bang tripod is they don't weigh a half ton.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Mar 2, 2014

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

SybilVimes posted:

And once you're onto the arca swiss system you have more options for upgrading, whereas there's often a tendancy to stay manfrotto because 'that's what head I have, and I don't want to buy new plates...'


This is pretty true. At least the camera clip I got is compatible with manfrotto and arca swiss.

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.
Fallen Rib
My ballhead and my gimbal-mount are both Arca-Swiss compatible but each cost about $100 because they're part of the wave of Chinese manufacturers trying to break into global markets. I'm happy with both, and while big-brand-name Arca-Swiss plates (e.g. Really Right Stuff) are very expensive, there are again a number of Chinese companies happily selling good-enough plates for semi-reasonable prices.

SybilVimes
Oct 29, 2011

ExecuDork posted:

My ballhead and my gimbal-mount are both Arca-Swiss compatible but each cost about $100 because they're part of the wave of Chinese manufacturers trying to break into global markets. I'm happy with both, and while big-brand-name Arca-Swiss plates (e.g. Really Right Stuff) are very expensive, there are again a number of Chinese companies happily selling good-enough plates for semi-reasonable prices.

Yeah, I buy the £8 plates from china too, cos there's only so many ways they could mess up a piece of steel with 1-2 holes and a pair of grooves

Bob Socko
Feb 20, 2001

Shaocaholica posted:

So does anyone think theres any market for it given the current A-mount landscape? I built this back in 2008 when there were zero FF A mount cameras except for Minolta film bodies. I've been sitting on it for 6 years now not using it since I switched systems to Nikon.
It should sell over at Dyxum.

Haggins
Jul 1, 2004

SybilVimes posted:

Yeah, I buy the £8 plates from china too, cos there's only so many ways they could mess up a piece of steel with 1-2 holes and a pair of grooves

Yeah I just bought a new bottom plate for my 6D for $30. I'm sure it's just fine.

theloafingone
Mar 8, 2006
no images are allowed, only text
I currently use a blackrapid strap with my 5d3, but I read somewhere that using it with a heavier lens could lead to weight limit issues.

I'm specifically looking at the 70-200 2.8 IS II for an upcoming event and would like some input on alternative straps.

Weight should be approximately 950g camera + 1490g lens (+ 310g grip maybe) = ~2750g

timrenzi574
Sep 11, 2001

theloafingone posted:

I currently use a blackrapid strap with my 5d3, but I read somewhere that using it with a heavier lens could lead to weight limit issues.

I'm specifically looking at the 70-200 2.8 IS II for an upcoming event and would like some input on alternative straps.

Weight should be approximately 950g camera + 1490g lens (+ 310g grip maybe) = ~2750g

I carry around a 100-400 on my 70D on a blackrapid classic and it's not an issue. 5d3 is a heavier body for sure, but the lenses are not that different weightwise - as long as you're clipping it onto the lens tripod ring and not the body, I don't see why it should be a huge problem?

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I used a blackrapid strap with my gripped D800 and a Nikon 70-200 2.8 quite frequently without any ill effects. Are you worried it's going to break or something? The had some issues early on, but that was more the design of the swivel being fundamentally flawed and coming unscrewed rather than breakage, IIRC.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW
There's a video of someone hanging off one somewhere. You really don't need to worry about it breaking.

For experience, I've owned mine for 4 years now. The heaviest thing I've put on it (for comedy) was a 600 f/4 on a full frame body. It hurt, but the strap was fine.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Back when I used a DSLR, I carried a gripped 40D and an 80-200 f/2.8 with no problems. I used a piece of paracord to tie the Blackrapid buckle to the strap fastening point on the battery grip.

800peepee51doodoo
Mar 1, 2001

Volute the swarth, trawl betwixt phonotic
Scoff the festune
I have a BR knockoff strap and I hang a 300 2.8 + 2x TC + 1DIV + flash off of it no worries

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. Was about to get the Vanguard that grack recommended (http://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-SBH-...llhead+vanguard) as being compatible with the Arca-Swiss system, but I can't find anything on the page that says it actually is. Can anyone confirm it or point me to one that is?

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

Dr. Lenin posted:

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. Was about to get the Vanguard that grack recommended (http://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-SBH-...llhead+vanguard) as being compatible with the Arca-Swiss system, but I can't find anything on the page that says it actually is. Can anyone confirm it or point me to one that is?

That is not arca swiss compatible, Vanguard's ABH line are the ones that come with arca swiss clamps. http://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-ABH-...ds=vanguard+ABH

i am kiss u now
Dec 26, 2005


College Slice
So, I'm going to be going out to Burning Man this year and I'd like to take my 60D and lenses. What would be the best way to protect all of this gear from ever-present playa dust that seems to find its way into everything? The only glass I have with weather-sealing is my 70-200mm f/4 L and even then, I'm not convinced that it'll be 100% protected.

Quantum of Phallus
Dec 27, 2010

It might be overkill but consider getting one of those underwater cases, the dust will potentially destroy your camera.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Playa dust is p notorious for destroying every loving thing. Take a P&S in a dive case.

rcman50166
Mar 23, 2010

by XyloJW

Quantum of Phallus posted:

It might be overkill but consider getting one of those underwater cases, the dust will potentially destroy your camera.

This is solid advice. There are non-hard underwater cases which are relatively affordable:

http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Un...erwater+housing

That being said, I'm sot sure I'd actually put that under water. Ever.

Change lenses and stuff indoors and you should be fine.

Edit: Looking at it, it looks like the front is also some sort of plastic. It doesn't matter terribly when the optics are air, plastic, water, but when its air, plastic, air, it'll warp your image pretty bad. I'd personally cut a hole for a UV filter or something. I know UV filters aren't good, but they are definitely better than that.

rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 5, 2014

timrenzi574
Sep 11, 2001

rcman50166 posted:

This is solid advice. There are non-hard underwater cases which are relatively affordable:

http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Un...erwater+housing

That being said, I'm sot sure I'd actually put that under water. Ever.

Change lenses and stuff indoors and you should be fine.

Edit: Looking at it, it looks like the front is also some sort of plastic. It doesn't matter terribly when the optics are air, plastic, water, but when its air, plastic, air, it'll warp your image pretty bad. I'd personally cut a hole for a UV filter or something. I know UV filters aren't good, but they are definitely better than that.

I have one of the DICAPAC (who the heck came up with that name) housings for my SLR, and a smaller one for my M. They both do a great job of being waterproof - the sealing method is basically the same as canoe/kayak gear bags (giant ziplock, rolling multiple times then velcro shut the roll) which I've been using for years and have never failed to keep my clothes and sleeping bag dry on trips.

Spime Wrangler
Feb 23, 2003

Because we can.

evil_bunnY posted:

Playa dust is p notorious for destroying every loving thing. Take a P&S in a dive case.

Seriously don't gently caress with dust in the desert. Moab (which isn't nearly as bad as being out on the playa for days on end) destroyed my S90 completely and just two hikes left grit in the focus ring of my 40mm and back wheel of my 40D, even though I was being careful.

If I was you I'd make sure I had insurance, dust-tight storage, and keep the 70-200 on there with a UV filter as much as possible. A ruggedized P&S might be a good investment for a walkaround. Or rent weathersealed gear.

theloafingone
Mar 8, 2006
no images are allowed, only text

timrenzi574 posted:

I carry around a 100-400 on my 70D on a blackrapid classic and it's not an issue. 5d3 is a heavier body for sure, but the lenses are not that different weightwise - as long as you're clipping it onto the lens tripod ring and not the body, I don't see why it should be a huge problem?
Awesome to hear. I was just worried a little bit because the one time I did try it on it felt quite a bit heavy and there were reports online of it breaking so I just wanted to be sure.

powderific posted:

I used a blackrapid strap with my gripped D800 and a Nikon 70-200 2.8 quite frequently without any ill effects. Are you worried it's going to break or something? The had some issues early on, but that was more the design of the swivel being fundamentally flawed and coming unscrewed rather than breakage, IIRC.
I guess the reports I had been reading were from the earlier versions. Thanks for clearing that up!

Thanks to everyone else who commented. I really like their straps and it's good to know that they hold up under weight!

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Just hook your strap the the lens if it's heavier than the body and you'll be fine.

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