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lilljonas posted:I'd love to get into pressure casting, as my current method a) is very messy and b) leaves me with way too many miscasts. I'm really happy to see some actual resin casting discussion going on now. I might finally be able to have an area to do my castings that is not inside my small apartment, so I'm considering getting some real gear. Does anyone have good recommendations for gear? I live in Sweden and have never seen anything remotely suitable at the hardware stores here. Hey lilljonas, I love the stuff you make  I have my set up as these items - Pressure casting - 10 litre Paint pressure pot which can go up to 60psi safely and not explode - Hardware as an add-on to that which allows me to have a ball valve intake and an exhaust I can use to slowly release the pressure built up in the chamber. Can also include an air diverter inside under the lid so the air doesn't blow straight down on your resin or plaster - Regular large sized air compressor with hose and moisture trap. Vacuum degassing - Using the above pressure pot, you can make a piece of thick Lucite to go across the top as a cover. Include pressure guage and ball valves for opening/closing the intake and exhaust. You'll need to make it airtight as possible, so if you know someplace which can mill out a shallow channel in the lucite the width of the rim of the pressure pot, you can pour some silicone into that and make a nice gasket for it which should allow it to be air-tight. At the moment I am having to do with a hand cut rubber one placed over some play-doh. It's not ideal but gets the job done. - A decent vacuum pump. I think mine pulls 8 cubic ft, but you don't need to go that high, it just makes the job go faster, which is actually ideal for fast cure silicone. You don't want to go less than 3 to 3.5 though. Additional things you can do (and which I am looking to make) - Make a standing multi-level rack for inside the chamber so you can have multiple molds going at the one time You can probably get away with doing pressure molding alone. Vacuum degassing just helps it get that much more detail in on the part in both the silicone and resin casting process. Your choice as to how far you want to take this In terrain news - Some more interesting shapes from cheapo chocolate molds bought online. Don't mind some of the miscasts, it's a trial run and I didn't use my pressure pot to make these. Also the one on the bottom right is intentionally damaged (will be a tank trap). The various gem shapes are all one mold, the 'pill' looking one is one mold, then the round open one, the circular shaped one, the triangle (again another awesome tank trap) and the larger pyramid one. All can be found on ebay under 'silicone mold', and for about $4 per mold. Cheap and easy way to get stuff like this done! All of these are cast in Hydrostone TB to ensure the best possible cast and resilience. Will allow them a fair while to dry completely before attempting to paint them. 
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Feb 25, 2014 12:27
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Indolent Bastard posted:What kind of stuff would be useful? So yeah - the five I mentioned above. What do you think? VVV Cool - thanks! VVV berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 14:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:That's a drat good question. Honestly, I've never played the game before, so I'm not sure exactly what is needed. I know the base game comes with Run, Loot, Hidden, Broken, and Overwatch. I'm not sure how often the others would come into play. In the case of a jam or out of ammo, you'd just go to a backup weapon; with wounds, I'd probably just use a small die on the base to keep track. Everyone pretty much starts with one wound anyway. I'm working on some designs. I'll post them later and see what you think. E: I went ahead and made all the ones I'd mentioned. I made two alternates for broken and hidden.  Wondering what any/everyone thinks? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 15:33
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Cross post from the minatures thread: I'm working on some brides for Necromunda type terrain. I wanted them to be vandalized a bit so I threw some graffiti on this one. What do you all think?  
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Mar 1, 2014 04:28
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I really like it, good job You could get all the people in your campaign to design one, or give you ideas so you can have gang specific tags allover the place. Over time, your terrain would keep the memory of old gangs and endup looking really great. Just use some masking tape for your hazard stripes, they are making me twitch.
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Mar 1, 2014 12:13
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With Infinity taking off at my club, I had a bit of a terrain drive. Got designs from here: Infinity Forums I made templates and passed them and some foamboard to a few willing hands. Then went off to make a few of my own.  I used 3mm foam board - remember to keep your blade sharp, this stuff blunts it quickly and a blunt blade will mangle the board rather than cut. I'm also making a master for a mould of big crates.  Because of the material, I went over the explosed edges with slightly watered down PVA - if you don't, sprays can melt the foam. Then to add some texture and fill some gaps, I used some basic filler that I had leftover from another job.  
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Mar 2, 2014 22:49
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I am totally using his designs to laser cut some terrain. Thanks, My final design and first test pieces. 
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Mar 3, 2014 03:04
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I love your peeling paint effects!
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Mar 3, 2014 03:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:I am totally using his designs to laser cut some terrain. Thanks, Those are perfect! The hazard striping background captures the Necromunda aesthetic perfectly!
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Mar 3, 2014 03:39
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What do you guys paint your MDF and/or balsa with to prevent warping when you glue stuff to it? Would normal house paint work?
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Mar 3, 2014 15:00
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krushgroove posted:What do you guys paint your MDF and/or balsa with to prevent warping when you glue stuff to it? Would normal house paint work? This was suggested earlier in the thread when I asked a similar question. http://www.staples.com/Scotch-Super-77-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Adhesive-135-oz/product_260869
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Mar 3, 2014 15:59
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OK thanks...but that's a spray adhesive - am I able to paint over that with thinned-down PVA glue for base material and flocking?
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Mar 3, 2014 16:19
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Peel some cardboard, be careful not to crush the corrugations. Then cut to size and stick on the buildings - top with a coffee stirrer stick.  Indolent Bastard posted:I am totally using his designs to laser cut some terrain. Thanks, Welcome and those look super.
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Mar 3, 2014 22:41
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Peeling cardboard is annoying. If your local pizza place is like mine they use cardboard under their pizza that is "pre-peeled" ( I don't know cardboard terminology) and if you ask nice the lovely girl behind the counter will give you a dozen pieces or so, for free. I mention this as my earlier attempts to peel cardboard were met with failure.
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Mar 3, 2014 23:45
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 Use a damp sponge to wet(not soak) the side you'd like to peel off, it'll come off a lot easier! Also, use sandpaper wrapped around a paintbrush handle or pencil to remove any stubborn leftover bits of paper from between the corrugation.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:13
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For some smaller scaled corrugated cardboard I have found the starbucks cup holders up here are already one sided, no peeling required. I don't care for starbucks myself, but I asked a few coworkers if they wouldn't mind saving them for me.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:39
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If anyone is looking for some good Dwarf terrain, various internet people have been buying up this cheap playset on eBay and repainting it.
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Mar 4, 2014 09:19
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El Estrago Bonito posted:If anyone is looking for some good Dwarf terrain, various internet people have been buying up this cheap playset on eBay and repainting it. I was all over that until I spotted the postage costs  nice idea if you can pick it up cheap though
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Mar 4, 2014 09:42
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enri posted:I was all over that until I spotted the postage costs Yeah there aren't any on eBay except that one right now because I think a lot of people saw that pic in Harry's Warseer thread and immediately bought all the ones on US eBay.
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Mar 4, 2014 11:40
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krushgroove posted:What do you guys paint your MDF and/or balsa with to prevent warping when you glue stuff to it? Would normal house paint work? I've been using acrylic primer & sealer bought from the hardware store. I figured it'd give it extra protection should any accidents happen. Sure enough, being the clumsy person I am, while painting and flocking the MDF pieces I managed to spill the rinsing cup. Water went onto a couple of pieces and nothing happened, so I'd say it worked a treat.
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Mar 4, 2014 14:48
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You should have lots of time to work on terrain after this weekend, too, since I can't imagine you'll have any sporting events worth watching on TV. not with that avatar anyway So I am planning to build a portable folding 4'x4' board for 40k. The issue I'm facing is how to make the surface. I want to use textured paint over fabric (over insulation foam) to give a desert-ish effect, but I'm uncertain how that will work with the folding aspect since I suspect it will crack on the seam. Also I intend to use 1/2" insulation foam glued to 1" to create a 1 1/2" board, and use the remainder of the 1/2" and 1" to make hills, walls, rock spires, cliffs/valleys, etc. Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 15:00
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Indolent Bastard posted:Peeling cardboard is annoying. If your local pizza place is like mine they use cardboard under their pizza that is "pre-peeled" ( I don't know cardboard terminology) and if you ask nice the lovely girl behind the counter will give you a dozen pieces or so, for free. That's a B Flute Corrugated Roll. Obtainiable at office supply stores, it's used to ship books. I don't know why I know that. I love that idea using the cardboard for roll up doors. I definitely want to make more terrain -- I am just afraid because my house is so full of gaming stuff right now -- and I don't have a gaming table.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:06
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Danoss posted:I've been using acrylic primer & sealer bought from the hardware store. I figured it'd give it extra protection should any accidents happen. Cool, sounds good - I've done some searching online and apparently there's a primer made specifically for MDF, if I can't find that I'll just get some acrylic sealer. I was hoping to find something that can be airbrushed but I guess it is starting to warm up so I can paint these buildings outside.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:26
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Apollodorus posted:So I am planning to build a portable folding 4'x4' board for 40k. The issue I'm facing is how to make the surface. I want to use textured paint over fabric (over insulation foam) to give a desert-ish effect, but I'm uncertain how that will work with the folding aspect since I suspect it will crack on the seam. I've had good results using truck-bed liner, makes a really tough surface with a decent amount of grit to it. Should be fairly flexible, too. I'd score down the middle of your seam regardless of what you're using though; most things don't appreciate being folded 180 degrees in such a short radius.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:38
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Signal posted:I've had good results using truck-bed liner, makes a really tough surface with a decent amount of grit to it. Should be fairly flexible, too. I'd score down the middle of your seam regardless of what you're using though; most things don't appreciate being folded 180 degrees in such a short radius. Can you show me a picture/link of what you're talking about? I don't really have any experience with truck beds.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:33
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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Fluids-and-Chemicals/Truck-Bed-Coating/_/N-257b Using it for coating gaming boards and the like is an ingenious idea! The stuff is made to take a beating.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:52
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Hm, that may be an option. I will keep it in mind, as it could do a lot to reinforce the sides and corners, not to mention make the foam layered hills a little better.
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Mar 5, 2014 00:19
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krushgroove posted:Cool, sounds good - I've done some searching online and apparently there's a primer made specifically for MDF, if I can't find that I'll just get some acrylic sealer. I was hoping to find something that can be airbrushed but I guess it is starting to warm up so I can paint these buildings outside. As long as it's water-based and has sealing properties, you're golden. That's about my level of understanding on it and I'm quite sure they're the only factors worth worrying about. It's summer over here currently, so I've been doing the painting outdoors (plus I don't have the indoor space for making this degree of mess and clutter). The best part is that drying time is not even a concern if you're working on multiple pieces. Verdugo posted:I definitely want to make more terrain -- I am just afraid because my house is so full of gaming stuff right now -- and I don't have a gaming table. There's your next project! Building a gaming table is actually the next thing on my agenda. Just gotta pick up some trestle table legs so it can fold away easily and I'm ready to begin. Any excuse to bust out the power tools is a good one (actually tempted to pick up a scroll saw to make cutting those MDF terrain bases easier, the jigsaw is a bit awkward).
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Mar 5, 2014 01:21
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I have a slight problem. I just built a bunch of scenery for my LGS but the MDF bases are too smooth and skip about too easily. The boards we play on are just flat untextured boards painted with (horribly bright) green emulsion. Anyone got any advice on how to make them grip a bit better and not go skidding off with a slight flick? I did sand the bases with coarse sandpaper but obviously it wasn't enough.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:07
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Daedleh posted:I have a slight problem. I just built a bunch of scenery for my LGS but the MDF bases are too smooth and skip about too easily. The boards we play on are just flat untextured boards painted with (horribly bright) green emulsion. Anyone got any advice on how to make them grip a bit better and not go skidding off with a slight flick? I did sand the bases with coarse sandpaper but obviously it wasn't enough. A few thin bits of blu-tac maybe? Enough to help it grip, but not enough to raise it off the table at all.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:51
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Blu-tac would work great. You could also maybe try some non-slip shelf liner, or the stuff for making sure rugs don't slip. Cut a piece to size and attach it to the bottom of the MDF with spray adhesive. http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-...94039604&sr=1-3 Blu-tac is probably best though - cheaper, and less bother.
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Mar 5, 2014 18:15
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Daedleh posted:I have a slight problem. I just built a bunch of scenery for my LGS but the MDF bases are too smooth and skip about too easily. The boards we play on are just flat untextured boards painted with (horribly bright) green emulsion. Anyone got any advice on how to make them grip a bit better and not go skidding off with a slight flick? I did sand the bases with coarse sandpaper but obviously it wasn't enough. Glue on felt or rubber. Paint the bottoms with grip paint (paint with sand in it). Or easiest yet go buy a roll of Anti-Slip matting and cut some pieces slightly smaller than the base. You don't need to attach it and it will grip. The stuff is used under rugs mostly, but has many different uses.
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Mar 5, 2014 18:16
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That dwarf fort is cool, I wonder if there's anything else in that line that would make good terr-  
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Mar 6, 2014 00:53
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Sign me up. Sign me right the gently caress up.
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Mar 6, 2014 02:49
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Indolent Bastard posted:Glue on felt or rubber. Paint the bottoms with grip paint (paint with sand in it). Or easiest yet go buy a roll of Anti-Slip matting and cut some pieces slightly smaller than the base. You don't need to attach it and it will grip. The stuff is used under rugs mostly, but has many different uses. All of these are great, easy to do and would work well. On your first point, there's the option of picking up some self-adhesive rubber feet – most of the work is already done with these. Otherwise some rubber sheets, a leather punch and CA glue will provide the same solution (and the leather punch has other applications, like making rivets/bolts from plasticard for other terrain bits).
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Mar 6, 2014 02:58
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moths posted:That dwarf fort is cool, I wonder if there's anything else in that line that would make good terr- There was that Nurgle tree the GW folks did a while back. Reminds me of that. Add a good paintjob and a stream of maggots pouring out of its mouth, and that may well win the godsdamned Internet.
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Mar 6, 2014 03:08
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Verdugo posted:That's a B Flute Corrugated Roll. Obtainiable at office supply stores, it's used to ship books. I don't know why I know that. I love that idea using the cardboard for roll up doors. You could also pick up one of these little guys. I've been pretty happy with mine. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FPU3ES/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394073988&sr=1-1 Edit: Er, um, to whom it may concern, vis a vis corrugated cardboard. Crudeboy fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 6, 2014 |
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Mar 6, 2014 03:50
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Scrolling past it I could swear those were Blood Angels on that playset.
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Mar 6, 2014 05:08
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Continuing with my big crate design, I'm now making the moulds from the three master pieces. Just as with the other pieces I covered the edges with pva and a bit of filler to smooth things out and fill some gaps.  Build up a wall of Lego of the right size, you want 5mm or so around the edges, or one stud as an easy measurement. Then cut a base to be a tight fit. I used plasticard, but i've also seen plasticene used. I want a nice flat surface, so i used the plasticard. Glue the master model to the plasticard - this is so the sillicone dosen't get underneath and float your model away.  I find that around 125g of silicone is about right for a mould of this size.  And there's one I already made. The cast pieces, and the final assembled version.   They aren't quite perfect, and need a bit of gap filling, but I like the result
Pilgrimski fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 20:32
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moths posted:That dwarf fort is cool, I wonder if there's anything else in that line that would make good terr- For easy googling, the dwarf-head (Which I've got coming from eBay thanks to this thread) is part of the 'explosion playset' and comes with a volcano-face thing.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:11
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