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why even paint this kit unless its at least as shiny?
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Mar 4, 2014 01:10
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Because matte gold is infinitely better than shiny. 
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Mar 4, 2014 01:37
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I've been painting over the mono-eyes to my Zeon kits so that they show up under the clear plastic visors. I've used testors enamel for some, and gundam markers for others. However, I've been painting over the tops of the eyes so they are totally opaque... and I realized I get a cool effect if I paint the backs and leave the front clear. Is there a way to remove enamel and gundam markers from clear plastic without clouding them up? I'm pretty sure testors enamel thinner will gently caress them up, but what about rubbing alcohol?
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Mar 4, 2014 02:05
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Fauxtool posted:why even paint this kit unless its at least as shiny? Get's rid of the the nub marks and seam lines. Also as Kitfox said, matte gold looks great.
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Mar 4, 2014 02:54
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Gammatron 64 posted:Is there a way to remove enamel and gundam markers from clear plastic without clouding them up? I'm pretty sure testors enamel thinner will gently caress them up, but what about rubbing alcohol? If you do it immediately you can get most of it off with a long soak in iso alcohol, but by now they've probably cured. You can try, but I bet you'll have a lot of residue you can't get rid of. Just leave them be. Nothing wrong with having some kits to look back on and notice the stuff you did wrong.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:34
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BlitzBlast posted:If you do it immediately you can get most of it off with a long soak in iso alcohol, but by now they've probably cured. You can try, but I bet you'll have a lot of residue you can't get rid of. Yeah, it's not even wrong per se, I can see the eyes much better than if I were to go over them with a red sharpie or clear paint. I had to mix some red and white enamel to get pink, and technically having them pink is more anime accurate than red (and it shows up better than red, too). (I used an orange Gundam marker for the Gouf and you can barely see it in the photo)  (Yeah that's my dryer, I can't get good lighting otherwise.)
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Mar 4, 2014 03:53
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Monaghan posted:Get's rid of the the nub marks and seam lines. Also as Kitfox said, matte gold looks great. Im not faulting the paintjob, it looks good. Someone paid extra for the coating and then painted over it. Why not buy a normal unicorn and paint that instead?
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Mar 4, 2014 04:04
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Fauxtool posted:Im not faulting the paintjob, it looks good. Someone paid extra for the coating and then painted over it. Why not buy a normal unicorn and paint that instead? Blue-green psycoframe, huge shields, different V-fin, decals. Maybe he liked everything but the bling and decided to change it. I agree that it would probably have been more cost effective to get a Unicorn and then scratch build the rest but maybe he's really into out-of-box building!
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Mar 4, 2014 04:07
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I too really prefer metallic gold and silver paint over chrome. Maybe if I ever get a Hyaku Shiki to complete my Zeta Gundam trinity, I might get the version with the ballute and paint it. Then again, I'm lazy and that's totally dependent on the weather.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:17
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Gammatron 64 posted:I too really prefer metallic gold and silver paint over chrome. Maybe if I ever get a Hyaku Shiki to complete my Zeta Gundam trinity, I might get the version with the ballute and paint it. Then again, I'm lazy and that's totally dependent on the weather. The MG Hyaku-Shiki with the ballute and the HD version from a couple of years ago aren't plated. I think only the original release is.
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Mar 4, 2014 05:25
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The HD Shiki actually is plated in a badass matte gold that looks much better than the standard model, but good luck finding one for under a hundred clams.
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Mar 4, 2014 07:42
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Every time GG posts an update to their stock, I check it to see if they've finally gotten the MG Exia RII in. They still haven't. Late February my rear end. EDIT: Then again it took them until March to get all of the stuff that came out in February, so I guess the moral of the story is that GG Infinite is horrifically slow. Next time I'm using Model Grade. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 08:33
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Man, those "system base" kits Bandai sells for 1/144 models are really neat, I wish there was a 1/100 scale version. It kinda looks like you might be able to use 1/100 for them, though, if you don't mind it being a little tall for the garage.
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Mar 4, 2014 08:55
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You can, since they expand to get wider. Have you looked at the "H-Hangar" / Free Link System stuff yet?
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Mar 4, 2014 09:00
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SpikeMcclane posted:You can, since they expand to get wider. Have you looked at the "H-Hangar" / Free Link System stuff yet? I'd never heard of those, but they look super cool.
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Mar 4, 2014 09:23
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Which Dom / UC Dom variant is best?
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Mar 4, 2014 15:21
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MG Dom I guess. They're all pretty old. If you're fine with a lookalike, HGUC Dreissen just came out and it's solid.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:32
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BlitzBlast posted:MG Dom I guess. They're all pretty old. On the subject of HGUC, is there a specific kit or range of kits around when they can be considered changing from bad-as-SEED-kits to good-as-00-kits?
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Mar 4, 2014 16:46
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I have the MG Dom, and while it's a very old MG, it really isn't bad at all. The upper body is very well articulated and he even has individual fingers. Now, the legs aren't going to be able to move much, but that's partially because of the design of the mobile suit itself. You're not going to be have him kneeling or doing high kicks. Luckily, it's a Dom and they just kind of scoot around on the ground so you don't really have to move the legs anyway. A Dom 2.0 could add more joints in the legs, but it probably couldn't do much with them due to their shape and weight. I think the Z'Gok and the RX-79[G]\Ez8\RGM-79[G] are also old kits that stand up to the test of time.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:49
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There are basically no gunpla kits that are outright bad, that's how high the quality of the brand is. When people talk about how good a given kit is, they're comparing it to modern standards. And by modern standards, MG Dom has an incomplete inner frame, mediocre parts/color separation, poor articulation on the legs (you can blame the design if you want, but nowadays Bandai is entirely capable of making even the fattest suits flex), a lovely beam effect part, and IIRC an odd over-reliance on polycaps. It is also very cheap though, and again if you want a straight up Dom it's your best pick. Neddy Seagoon posted:On the subject of HGUC, is there a specific kit or range of kits around when they can be considered changing from bad-as-SEED-kits to good-as-00-kits? Most of the stuff past CCA is solid. Be careful of reused old molds like Kirks' Zaku I Sniper though.
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Mar 4, 2014 17:56
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BlitzBlast posted:...a lovely beam effect part... Isn't that just a Heat Saber, not a beam effect part? (Which are infinitely cooler than beam sabers btw. )Add me to the big list of folks wanting an MG Dom 2.0 though. Fauxtool posted:why even paint this kit unless its at least as shiny? Argh, on one hand, I really like the shiny gold of the out-of-box kit, but that looks great too. I may have to do a repaint of a regular Unicorn kit to those colors. ACES CURE PLANES fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 18:08
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S-Alpha posted:Isn't that just a Heat Saber, not a beam effect part? (Which are infinitely cooler than beam sabers btw. I don't remember mine coming with any effect parts. The Dom doesn't actually come with a beam saber, it has a heat saber which is actually just a solid sword that heats up. It doesn't "retract" like a beam saber or lightsaber does, the Dom stores the whole thing on his backpack. I kinda want a ZZ 2.0 and Zaku I 2.0 first. Plus I'd like to have a GP02 that can actually hold his shield and move around. The GP02 is such a cool looking Gundam and it stinks that its model kit is so bad. But really, if there's something that needs a 2.0, it's the ZZ.
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Mar 4, 2014 18:26
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I'm so for asking so many questions about potential models, but I'm kinda scared of spending hours working on a model only for it to break due to a well-documented design flaw like what happened last time I bought a model kit. Are there any issues with any of the HG00 models? And has anybody in this thread build the Bearguy III?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:29
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HG 00Raiser is might just be the perfect starter HG, It's solid, pretty detailed, has a ton of options, great build design, posable as gently caress, etc.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:32
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Has anyone else built the MG RX-0 Unicorn Gundam kit? I just finished up the build this weekend and I'm having issues with the torso lock, it doesn't lock properly and tends to wobble. I was reading reviews and people mention the leg/waist joint which is an issue for me as well.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:17
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AFK Werewolf posted:Has anyone else built the MG RX-0 Unicorn Gundam kit? I just finished up the build this weekend and I'm having issues with the torso lock, it doesn't lock properly and tends to wobble. I was reading reviews and people mention the leg/waist joint which is an issue for me as well. Do the legs fall off at the slightest provocation? If so, it's not just you, I had the same problem with my Banshee kit. The model is decently stable in Unicorn mode, but the Destroy mode transformation is a loving mess unless you work to tighten up the locks.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:18
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Gammatron 64 posted:I don't remember mine coming with any effect parts. The Dom doesn't actually come with a beam saber, it has a heat saber which is actually just a solid sword that heats up. It doesn't "retract" like a beam saber or lightsaber does, the Dom stores the whole thing on his backpack. I could have swore the OYW Dom I had came with a yellow and a blue rod for the heat saber, one for cold and stored, the other for hot and activated. Apparently I'm mental since Dalong only shows a yellow sword on the sprues. It was by far the most fun I had on an MG build. Maybe because it was relatively unchallenging, or because it was my first time building the skeleton of a kit first and then snapping the armor over top of it. Or maybe it's just because I liked Doms ever since I read the Blue Destiny book.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:24
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Bloody Pom posted:Do the legs fall off at the slightest provocation? If so, it's not just you, I had the same problem with my Banshee kit. They do, I wanted to keep it in Unicorn mode, but when I place it on the stand, the lower torso joint shifts and wobbles for some reason, even with just the arms and head attached. It's like the two gray pieces covering the psychoframe don't match up.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:31
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Phy posted:I could have swore the OYW Dom I had came with a yellow and a blue rod for the heat saber, one for cold and stored, the other for hot and activated. Apparently I'm mental since Dalong only shows a yellow sword on the sprues. I just have the regular one. I know they've made a bunch of recolors and there's also a Rick Dom which is a slightly darker shade of purple, has a giant gun and some very minor differences like thrusters. The Rick Dom looks better in my book but I'm not going to build that kit again.
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Mar 5, 2014 03:11
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AFK Werewolf posted:Has anyone else built the MG RX-0 Unicorn Gundam kit? I just finished up the build this weekend and I'm having issues with the torso lock, it doesn't lock properly and tends to wobble. I was reading reviews and people mention the leg/waist joint which is an issue for me as well. Mine is in about 400 pieces while I paint it. Are you using both the positions in the chest axle? It's the first piece you assemble in the manual. When you have the axle seated all the way against the U, the whole chest raises a couple of millimeters and that's enough to let the little flap in the back hold it straight. If you don't pull it up, it will always be off center if you engage the flap in the back.
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Mar 5, 2014 03:16
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Midjack posted:Mine is in about 400 pieces while I paint it. Oh poo poo, it worked. Thank you so much! I'm still not sure how to feel about this kit. I love the design of Unicorn mode, wish there was just a MG Unicorn only mode like with the HGUC. I'm in love with the MG Jesta and it's articulation.
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Mar 5, 2014 03:44
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AFK Werewolf posted:Oh poo poo, it worked. Thank you so much! I'm still not sure how to feel about this kit. I love the design of Unicorn mode, wish there was just a MG Unicorn only mode like with the HGUC. I'm in love with the MG Jesta and it's articulation. after dealing with the frustration of trying to paint the unicorn, I am in complete agreement with you.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:12
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Monaghan posted:after dealing with the frustration of trying to paint the unicorn, I am in complete agreement with you. I'm trying to decide how I feel about this compared to masking. On one hand, I bought every Radio Shack in a 20-mile radius out of alligator clips and will never have to buy them again. On the other, I really hate mashing down the edge of the tape juuuuust so.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:45
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MG Unicorn's Destroy Mode is completely out of scale anyways, so you might as well pretend it can't transform.
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Mar 5, 2014 06:17
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A new batch of images just came out of the HGBF Miss Sazabi, with some information about it's pilor, and it doesn't seem to be too sticker heavy either. It's available for a good price on amiami, and I really like the design (not as much as the Exia or some of the other 00 Gundams, but it's from Build Fighters, so.) I think I might have picked my first gunpla.  A question, though, regarding tools for the runners and the nubs. I know I'm gonna need a good pair of nippers for the runners, and everybody seems to recommend a different pair? Are there any that are especially reccomended for their quality? Also, everybody seems to have a different approach to nubs. Some do two nipper cuts, some do a nipper cut and then a parallel cut with an x-acto, some do a nipper and then a gradual shaving with an x-acto, some use a metal file, and some use sandpaper. Is there any approach that's generally agreed upon to leave the smallest mark? Also, I saw some posts about people using 1000 and 2000 grade sandpaper to polish off the mark. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Mar 5, 2014 21:35
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If you paid more than $15 for it, your nippers are probably really good. As long as it's made for the task, it'll be fine. You should cut and then sand. You'll probably end up using a hobby knife as an intermediate step once your nippers start getting dull. No matter what you do, there will always be a mark left over, especially on darker shades of plastic. Such is life, if you want to get rid of it you need to paint. Sanding 101: start with a low grit (300-400) to grind down the nub, polish with a medium grit (600-800), then polish again with a high grit (1000+). Bam. Also if Miss Sazabi is anything like HG Sazabi, have fun with that lovely leg connection!  EDIT: Seriously though, HGUC Sazabi really hosed up the legs. You should consider getting some Future, both to fix that problem and because every modeler should have Future. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 22:30
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BlitzBlast posted:If you paid more than $15 for it, your nippers are probably good enough. As long as it's made for the task, it'll be fine. What do you mean by shittly leg connection though, and is there anything I can do to improve it if it's the same connection.
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Mar 5, 2014 23:02
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So I broke and ordered the Sengoku Astray Master Grade yesterday. I'm pretty hype.
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Mar 5, 2014 23:40
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centaurette hentai posted:What do you mean by shittly leg connection though, and is there anything I can do to improve it if it's the same connection. Bandai completely hosed up the engineering and made the polycap on the legs too large. In other words, the legs don't "click" into place and just kind of hang there. And since the legs are so huge, the end result is that the Sazabi's legs will constantly fall out. The "solution", so to speak, is to increase the surface area of the plug. You can do that with some Future, or some topcoat, or hell some super glue. EDIT: Derp, it did use polycaps. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 23:44
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If I really mess up panel lining somehow, and I can't get it off with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, could I stand to just drop the part into a dish of rubbing alcohol?
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Mar 6, 2014 00:50
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