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Sister came by work last night so we could fix up her truck a bit. It's needed balljoints for quite some time. 1980 Datsun 720, 4 cylinder, RWD, 5 speed. First we decided to figure out why it was running like poo poo and not starting properly. Turns out the alternator belt was visibly loose, a prybar and some wrenches set that right. Put it on the quick charger and moved on to other repairs.  Next up it was balljoint time. Prepare yourselves. This truck began life with around 30 years of Arizona sun and dust, she's owned it for several years and it now lives in the Northeast and has made long extended trips to Kentucky, Oregon, Washington, most of the northwest, Utah, Colorado, Maine, Missouri, and a variety of other places. I think she's driven it across the country 3 or 4 times now. I've seen nasty balljoints and gross grease buildup, but nothing I had ever dealt with prepared me for this. Datsun 720 balljoints are all bolt-in, which is quite nice for serviceability. The new ones even came with new bolts, so we went in guns blazing with zero concerns about breaking the old hardware.  It begins.  Holy poo poo this grease buildup is obscene. Those are 14mm nuts, for reference. There are four of them hiding under there.  I had no idea grease could do this. It was rock hard and I had to use an actual chisel and a screwdriver and in some cases a hammer to break it loose.  What's that on the flat surface of this chunk of grease?  The negative imprint of a forging mark from the balljoint housing it was built up on.   Balljoint and several pounds of mud and hardened, baked grease have been excavated.  Dear god. This is from removing one lower balljoint.  Old balljoints and one side worth of extracted gunk.   there is a lower balljoint, four 12mm bolts with 14mm nuts on them, and a steering knuckle plus a really big balljoint taper nut hiding in this picture, I swear. All that grease and gunk is hardened so much that it's more solid than some plaster. Now we're getting somewhere.  Hey, I can actually see the nuts now.  Nuts, bolts, and balljoint extracted. I could probably cast a new one by pouring molten metal into the imprint if I so desired.  Old balljoint.  New upper balljoint in.  new lower balljoint in. You can even see it.  gently caress I hate lovely greaseguns so much. Goddamn thing required a lot of fighting to get the fitting onto the zerk, then ripped the zerk out of the balljoint instead of coming off it again. Then when I went to remove the zerk from the greasegun nozzle, it fought me for ten minutes straight and just when I was about to give up, practically fell out in my hand.  I set a world record for lovely greasegun shotput shortly after taking this picture. drat thing wouldn't prime, wouldn't stay primed, wouldn't go onto grease zerks and wouldn't come off of them. YOU HAVE ONE loving JOB, GREASEGUN, AND YOU FAILED.  Toolbag exploding on the shop floor. e: here's a side by side comparison for dramatic effect:  
kastein fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jan 28, 2014 |
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Jan 28, 2014 19:03
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kastein posted:I dont have anything yet. Need to get a bunch of stuff... but probably just check it out and make sure it works first. It weighs probably 300lbs, I decided to unload it from my friend's pickup into the trailer I brought myself and it went better than expected. I don't know how to tig weld... yet. I knew exactly what you were talking about. I just picked up a wiper assembly to add to my base model Cherokee. I think I found the only unbroken one. Now I'm afraid to put a hose on it, never mind I have no idea how to plumb it to the washer pump in the first place. I may just use it for clearing dew and winter condensation. I haven't looked at the manual yet, but does the hose run all the way to the engine compartment? Beach Bum posted:You gonna dip the barbs in epoxy to get some strength? I did that to my Miata dipstick, gave it four treatments and it simply refuses to break, unlike the stock part that snaps if you brake hard. Interesting idea. Just plain old 2-part epoxy, like - dare I say it? - JB Weld? kastein posted:I already installed it, so probably not. I kept the old one, if the new one breaks I will through-bore the old one and press in a small piece of stainless tubing from a hobby shop. That's what I was thinking. I've repaired vacuum solenoids and such with a little JB Weld and K&S brass tubing.
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Jan 28, 2014 19:25
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I'm honestly not sure, as I recall the wiring harness part numbers don't depend on having a rear wiper installed or not so it's probably hiding somewhere in the rear right quarterpanel area. Plumbing it down to the hatch will be annoying, I would pull all that off a donor at the yard. Oh, and here's a video of one of the old lower balljoints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPhNsQndsWo They were both this bad (around .1-.125" vertical play in the ball/socket.) One upper was almost completely seized and the other was dry and loose and made grindy crunching noises when I moved it around.
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Jan 28, 2014 19:27
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Jesus loving christ. That truck is going to be so much happier! I wish I could lose 20 lbs. of grease that quickly.
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Jan 28, 2014 20:13
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RE: lovely greaseguns Couple tricks would help you, I think. For the grease not coming out - when you first install a new tube, leave the sleeve a little unscrewed from the pump handle. This will let the air out when you release the spring. For the gun not releasing from the grease fitting - there are some finger grips on the end of your grease gun nozzle. Adjusting that end piece will extend and retract the internal fingers that grab the grease fitting. On my lawnmower, I have to install it loosely, tighten and pump grease, then loosen to remove - or it will pull out the fitting. I once threw a new grease gun through the particle board wall of my shed. We're better now.
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Jan 28, 2014 20:22
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I tried the "leave it unscrewed a bit" trick probably a dozen times last night  The only thing that worked was to completely remove the nozzle and pipe from the pump head, then smack the pump head against things vigorously while cursing, then try again and reinstall the nozzle and pipe once it started pumping properly.I always wondered what the knurled section of the greasegun tip was for. Will have to try playing with that next time one gives me trouble. Oh, and Darchangel, if it does break, you used to be able to order them from various aftermarket suppliers as part number 55000302. I don't know if anyone has stock left, don't buy from factorychryslerparts.com because they are scammers, etc. They are different 97 up vs 96 down. The 96 down ones are more fragile but the 97 up ones simply aren't available anywhere as far as I can tell.
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Jan 28, 2014 20:44
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Darchangel posted:Interesting idea. Just plain old 2-part epoxy, like - dare I say it? - JB Weld? Kinda sorta. You need something thin enough to brush on in an even coating to avoid drips, and you just apply 5 or so coats depending on how thick you get it on there. With the little plastic nipples on those pumps, you could shove a pop rivet in the hole backwards to both seal it and give you something to grab on to with a pair of pliers once the epoxy has set.
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Jan 29, 2014 00:02
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Beach Bum posted:Kinda sorta. You need something thin enough to brush on in an even coating to avoid drips, and you just apply 5 or so coats depending on how thick you get it on there. With the little plastic nipples on those pumps, you could shove a pop rivet in the hole backwards to both seal it and give you something to grab on to with a pair of pliers once the epoxy has set. Thanks, might give it a try. As far as the wiper install, all the wiring is there, just not the hose for the washer fluid. In fact, the wiring for everything is there - heated rear glass (going to add that, too), rear wiper, and power lock. I don't think I'll be using the washer, though, since I ran speaker wires into the hatch through the side the hose would go in and mounted 6 x 9s back there. In retrospect, I wish I'd have found a sound bar. 6 x 9s in the hatch were a lot of work. They sound good, though, and being able to oppen the tailgate and flood the area with Need to visit the wrecking yard to grab a wiper switch, though. Forgot that when I grabbed the wiper assembly.
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Jan 30, 2014 00:08
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Well. gently caress jeeps. Today I took a half day so I could get my windshield replaced. Drove home from work at lunchtime... strange grindy vibration noise I've been hearing for a while started getting louder. I thought it was coming from the back, so it'd probably be the rear wheel bearings, meaning I don't give a drat. I have a free replacement axle with my name on it sitting at a friends place a few miles away, and he owes me a favor, so worst case I can ask him to drop it off, slap the LSD in it, and stuff it under the jeep, right? Wrong. I show up for the windshield appointment, windshield gets put in, I can see again, awesome, time to drive home. [vvv you can skip straight to the line that's bolded wayyyyyy down there vvv if you don't want to hear a bunch of whining.] I start the jeep up and the strange noise is now significantly louder. And now the steering feels kinda chunky. I get on the road (since the windshield place is 2 miles from home, and it's mostly downhill, worst case I'd rather have a shorter distance to tow it) and the noise rapidly escalates from merely concerning to rather frightening. It now sounds like someone is jamming a handful of brush into the radiator fan. I say gently caress it and drive it home anyways. Nothing under the hood I don't have spares for, whatever, it's clearly chooched already, whatever it is. I get home and open the hood. There's loving power steering fluid EVERYWHERE and some sort of silvery metallic flake/powder/filing material blown all over the place, patches up to two feet away in some cases. Oh, ok, now I'm pretty sure what is wrong with it. Power steering pump must have finally given up the ghost. Alright what the gently caress ever, I have a brand new spare and brand new spare pulley sitting on the shelf. I got this covered. no I loving don't So I start the jeep back up just to see how horrible it is. Yep, it's hosed, the pulley is flopping around helplessly, there's about 1/8" of end play and 1/16" of side play in the power steering pump and it's pissing out fluid around the shaft faster than it can be poured in. The backside of the pulley looks like the tin woodman jacked off in it. 15 minutes later the pump's unbolted and I begin fighting the stupid loving PS return line. You know, the one that is held onto a plastic hose barb on the bottom of the reservoir with a jesus clip. Standard procedure is to rip the jesus clip off, attempt to break the fossilized hose loose from the barb, end up ripping the drat barb off the reservoir, then curse a lot. True to form it breaks off in my hand, so I cut the hose an inch shorter and hope it'll be long enough. Alright time to put the pulley on the pump. poo poo's easy, right? Hahahahaha funny you say that. The pump comes with a cheesy bolt, a washer, and a nut. The instructions note that this is their "included pulley installation tool". I think it looks hokey, so I grab the blowtorch, heat the bore of the pulley up with it to make it slide over the shaft most of the way without getting medieval, and promptly manage to char the gently caress out of a thumbnail/thumb tip because the torch tipped over and the flame went directly on my thumb for a good half second. Commence yelling and usage of extended vocabulary ("automotive repair spells.") Alright, now I'm properly pissed, time to get this loving pulley installed. Slap it back on there, get the hokey rear end chinesium "install tool" set up, crank on it and... man, this thing is going on easy! Oh wait, hahaha no, it's just stripping all the threads off the bolt and out of the bore of the pump shaft. Now I'm proper hosed, since the jeep's dead, nothing else is registered, and my only spare pump is presently shedding threads all over my hands. So I say gently caress it, it's already toast right? cursedshitbox recommends pressing the drat thing on. Which would be a great idea, except I didn't support the pump properly and the cast back plate with the thrust bearing in it is several mm recessed from the rear housing face, so the second I get the pulley almost seated with the press, I hear a loud POP and suddenly the end of the shaft is peeking out of the housing.  $70 brand new pump ruined.I promptly manage to drop it in the snow and fill everything that should only have oil in it with snow, then drop it again trying to shake the snow off and make things worse. Alright. Time to walk to the loving parts store and buy another. DAMMIT! [start again here. Whining over] $225 later ($50 of that core charge...) I walk home with a gallon of power steering fluid, another new pump, a return hose just in case, a $52 power steering pulley puller/installer kit, and something else I forget. The puller/installer kit is absolutely loving magical. It gets the new pulley off the broken new pump within seconds, then puts it onto the unbroken new pump with no sweat and no tears in another 30 seconds. Alright, poo poo's starting to go right again! Anyone who needs to install or remove pressed in place power steering pulleys, I can't recommend the W89708 toolkit enough. Pump goes in without a hitch, fill it with fluid, purge as much of the metal filing filled crap out of the system by spinning the wheel back and forth with the return line stuck in a bucket. Hook it all back up, fill it up, time for a test drive. The steering is much smoother now, I didn't realize it was getting so bad because it was a very gradual failure till today. Then I went to walmart, threw a new battery in it because it's been barely starting on cold mornings, tossed another quart of ATF in the transmission so it'll actually shift right again (I could find and fix the leak, but I've collected most of the parts for the 5 speed swap now... waiting on a few more and the auto is gone anyways), adjusted the headlights so I can see properly, and somehow accidentally fixed the temp sender issue that's been causing a bad temp gauge reading and probably is the source of my occasional lovely fuel economy. Today can go to hell! Vacation/long weekend coming up, though, just wish I'd been able to do everything I intended to today instead of firefighting DD explosions. Oh well, it'll have to wait till next time I get a chance.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:27
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Sounds like typical Jeep Owner Stuff(TM) to me  *Here are some questions that require your expertise: 1) Do you know of a good (cheap!) source of LDS/LDT-465 Multifuels in the NorthEast? 2) Would it be smarter/cheaper/easier to just buy a whole M35 if I was going to swap the LDS/LDT into an early 70s GMC C-series truck? (I have two of them without motors already) Check for consulting fee is in the mail * The rear suspension xmember of my DD subaru totally ripped apart the other day due to being made of hopes and prayers and a bit of soft cheese
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Feb 14, 2014 21:16
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I don't know of a good source, I would have one in my truck if I did That being said, I may be looking to sell mine when I toss the new motor in. Still has good oil pressure, runs well, worst case it needs new rod bearings and stuff. Probably slapping HGs and injectors in it this spring.
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Feb 15, 2014 19:25
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I just took advantage of my day off and went to the steel shop for the remaining metal I need for the bumper build on the red crapcan. Goals: roughly stock approach angle slightly more bulletproof than stock appearance absolutely bomb proof recovery points nice to have: standard 10x4.5" bolt pattern and fairlead opening for a winch in the future perhaps a built-in airtank (i.e. careful welding and perhaps coating the inside with sealant) for an air compressor just because it's not that much more work to add it Things I don't care about: how much it weighs (this will become readily apparent) I already bought 3 feet of 4-6" (I forget, but it fit my specs at the time, it's sitting at my desk at work) 3/4" HR plate for the recovery points. As usual with my bumper builds they will go straight through the bumper and approximately 16-18" down the frame rails, capturing all the steering box mounting bolts and everything else in between, to avoid ripping the wimpy 3 stock mounting bolts out of the sheetmetal frame rails. I'd rather make them say 1/4" thick from the rear face of the bumper back, but I don't really feel like spending that much time on the Bridgeport at work milling off massive quantities of mild steel, so 3/4" all the way back it is. Also on hand: 2x6 1/4" rectangular tubing for the sections of bumper that extend past the frame rails. Today I picked up the one remaining piece I needed, a section of 4x7 3/8" wall box tube 3.5 feet long. I actually need a 1/4" wall C channel with a 7" face, 2" wide top web and a 3" wide bottom web, but this is the closest prefab I can get and our brake at work won't handle 1/4" plate steel so it looks like it'll have to do. I'll just cut the back face and some of the top and bottom of the box tube off and use what's left behind. I can weld 1/4" with my 100 amp fluxcore but I think I may actually get the 230 amp MIG welder up and running for this one, since in a few places I'll be welding 3/8" plate to 3/4" plate. Or maybe the 200 amp stick/TIG welder, I haven't decided yet. This plus the winch will probably add around 220lbs to the front end so it's probably a good thing I got 2.5" heavy duty lift coil springs for it recently. Should ride roughly level with the new rear leafs, may need front shocks with stiffer valving now.
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Feb 17, 2014 20:46
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kastein posted:
I don't know how you can use a grease gun without the flexible hose on the end.
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Feb 17, 2014 22:50
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Desperation makes all things possible. That was the only grease gun the only store still open at 10pm had in stock. My good grease gun was 70 miles away at home because some dumb idiot forgot that installing new balljoints requires greasing said balljoints.
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Feb 17, 2014 23:05
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You know how I always sperg about wiring and tell people not to use unsealed butt splices or shoddy wiring? gently caress. Do as I say, not as I do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2HRYIuYWoI&t=48s loving hell my leaky crushed fuel pump wiring on the toiletjeep that I should have fixed two months ago just finished failing. In the middle of a snowstorm, on the side of I95, in the dark. So now I'm being splattered by salty meltwater and nearly creamed by plows while I wait for ACEofsnett to bring me butt splices and a crimper because he is awesome and I would be SOL without him to bail me out of this mess. Glad it failed now, not Thursday morning or on my way to work, though. Sunday in the nice dry airport parking garage with nowhere to be would have been ideal. God dammit!
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Feb 19, 2014 03:02
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Well we haven't heard from Ken in IRC since this post... 
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Feb 19, 2014 15:30
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kastein posted:You know how I always sperg about wiring and tell people not to use unsealed butt splices or shoddy wiring? If we all followed our own advice we wouldn't have any lovely adventures or learn any lessons! daslog posted:Well we haven't heard from Ken in IRC since this post... Maybe he decided to convert the Jeep to 
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Feb 19, 2014 15:40
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Some random dude who works as a PLC/industrial control systems installer pulled over and asked if I needed help. I jokingly asked if he had a pair of wire strippers, some 14ga wire, some butt splices, and a crimper... not expecting that he actually would. Except they were euro style barrier strips. Either way, I had it bodged back together and crawled out from under to return his tools just as a state trooper rolls up to see what the hell is going on. Got it started, took off, then the state trooper nearly hit Ace in his XJ pulling out into traffic. Timing was great, he said he saw me standing on the side of the road on the way up, then turned around at the next exit to come back down the side of the highway I was on, only to see me drive away and then nearly get driven into by a cop. I got home around 1:30AM and went straight to sleep, but yeah, I'm not dead. Guess I'm dragging the pile into the shop after work tonight and fixing it properly. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Feb 19, 2014 |
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Feb 19, 2014 15:50
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Ken is too busy persuading other goons to buy parts jeeps to die.
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Feb 19, 2014 16:04
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Wednesday, Ace and I may be going on a mystery automotive adventure. More information as it develops.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:26
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Mission: SUCCESS There is an nv4500 in the back of toiletjeep.
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Mar 5, 2014 23:14
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kastein posted:Mission: SUCCESS ...and here's the evidence.  The victim.  Mileage  Vin  Obligatory Giant Kastein in a tiny car picture.  Kastein regards this "Boxster" with contempt.  Also here's a bonus 5 second video of the transmission being broken free with the clutch pedal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxn7JNJheFY
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Mar 6, 2014 16:59
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I wasn't sure if I wanted to put that nv4500 in one of my trucks, so I listed it for a stupid high price on various sale/trade sites. 900 bucks. Decision was made for me this morning, someone paid full asking price. I thought they were worth 700, apparently I don't know my market and should ask 1100 next time. Fastest sale ever, too, wasn't even in my possession for two full days and went straight from my jeep into the buyers van. If I could find and sell one or two of these a week I wouldn't need a job. Sadly I find more like one or two a year.
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Mar 7, 2014 13:26
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YOU HOOD RICH NOW SON
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Mar 7, 2014 14:47
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As a direct result of this it is time to order an SYE kit for the XJ  Same exact kit that I threw in sandbagger's new transfer case. Oh yeah. So I'm going to be doing the 5 speed swap, SYE, and new rear axle (with an LSD installed in it) ~70 miles from my parts and tools collection, in the bay at work, which means I absolutely have to remember to buy/bring everything, because I will be walking several miles to the parts store if I forget anything, and they might not be able to get it in time. So here's what I plan on doing: spare 8.25, install LSD from a Durango, new perches welded to line up with SYE driveshaft angle SYE install in the NP231 AX15 swap And here's the list of parts I think I need: transmission (from a 3.9L V6 Dakota, in stock) bellhousing from a 4.0 XJ (in stock) clutch fork, clutch fork retainer spring (in stock) clutch hydraulics set (in stock) pedal box (already installed) 1998 M/T 4.0 ECU (in stock) flywheel bolts (on their way from Summit) pressure plate bolts (on their way from Summit) flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing (in stock) bellhousing cover (in stock) trans tunnel cover plate, shift lever assy, inner and outer shift lever boots (in stock) transmission to trans mount bushing adapter plate (in stock) bolts for adapter plate (need to get these. I believe they are 7/16-14 thread, 1" long.) new engine and transmission mount bushings (in stock) 5-speed XJ transmission crossmember, or materials to fabricate one. spare NSS plug, SXL grade wire, butt splices, crimper to make NSS bypass and reverse light switch harness two double cardan front driveshafts. Preferably an early V8 ZJ and a late V8 ZJ U-joint style front driveshaft, but those are proving hard to find, so: 1.75"x0.120" DOM to shorten and lengthen two driveshafts appropriately assorted seals and parts for transfer case rebuild RTV 5-speed XJ transfer case shift linkages or materials from mcmaster to set them up for cable shift parts to do a few "custom modifications" to the NP231 that I have in mind... this will include one valve seal, some rod stock, drills, taps, and a small custom machined aluminum adapter. a few more bolts for the AX15 since some idiot pulled them at the junkyard while trying to remove the transfer case 29 spline chrysler 8.25 w/ 3.55 gears (in stock) brake fluid, mobil1 10w30 for the AX15, ATF for the NP231, 80W90 for the 8.25 8.25 U-bolts (in stock) 6"x1/2" HR plate to make new U-bolt plates from (in stock) e-brake cables (on their way from rockauto) Durango LSD (in stock, needs a ride in the parts washer) RuffStuff leaf spring perches for a 2.5" leaf spring and 3" axle tube (on order) all new seals for the 4.0 (front main, rear main, oil pan, valve cover, distributor) (on their way from rockauto and Summit) carrier bearings for the Durango LSD (on their way from rockauto) ring gear bolts for installing the LSD (on their way from rockauto) intake/exhaust manifold gasket set (on its way from rockauto) new connecting rod bearings (on their way from rockauto) front calipers (on their way from rockauto) replacement manifold bolt/stud (in stock) wheel bearings and seals for the 8.25 (on their way from Summit/rockauto) antiseize, loctite sets of CV joint bolts for new rear driveshaft, 2x dana/spicer 2-70-18x ujoint strap kits Tools required: welding/fab equipment (angle grinder w/ cutoff, angle grinder w/ wire wheel, angle grinder w/ grinding wheel, welder, gloves, mask, chopsaw) chrysler 8.25 side adjuster tool dial indicator C-clamps, scrap of 1/4 plate torque wrench lockring pliers angle finder full tap/die collection, just in case plastigauge ... and normal full toolset. Anyone see anything I'm forgetting? Everything in bold is stuff I haven't taken care of yet. e: NINE WAREHOUSES ROCKAUTO, HOLY SHITFUCK, WHAT THE HELL kastein fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 7, 2014 |
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Mar 7, 2014 15:27
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Congrats on getting rid of that NV2500. I can't believe how sought-after and valuable they are.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:31
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Was that the yard thats on row52? That was also a really early Omni, 79-80s...Likely a VW motor in it.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Congrats on getting rid of that NV2500. I can't believe how sought-after and valuable they are. NV4500  2500s are pretty worthless, iirc, if they even exist. I know there is an NV1500 in either the jeep liberty or something similar to it, the 3500 is a kinda crap transmission that's roughly equal to an AX15 but harder to find. The 4500 is pretty drat strong though it does have a few weak points, and the NV5600 is simply unobtainium since they only came in turbodiesel and V10 dodges, which never make it into the yard. If I found one, I'd grab it and probably get 1500-2k for it on the open market... because even though I'd love to put one in a project truck, making 1300 to 1800 dollars in a few hours is simply too attractive a proposition. Mighty Horse, yeah, this yard is the Cumberland RI Pick-n-Pull. Them, the Millis yard you found, the Freetown yard I've been to a few times, and a couple others are all pretty decent.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:55
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I don't know what kind of access you have to normally hard-to-find fasteners, but I used http://www.boltdepot.com/default.aspx a while back for a project of mine and their prices are pretty good. Individual pieces are available, but shipping can sneak up on you.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:07
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Those prices look OK-ish, good to have as a resource if I need something weird. Normally I just go by tractor supply company (they have a store about 2 miles from my house) and buy grade 8 bolts by the pound, because ~$5/lb for grade 8 is pretty drat good. For metric I stick with either OEM fasteners from my vehicle, the junkyard, or mcmaster/grainger.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:39
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kastein posted:~$5/lb for grade 8 is pretty drat good. gently caress yeah, it is. The prices for what I was buying from that site were the best that I found, personally. I used to live right by a TSC, but my closest one is about 20 miles out now. I guess I need to make a trip out there to get an idea of what they have. I think I was most impressed by that company's packaging. I received 3 bolts, 2 nuts, and 3 washers individually bagged by item, labeled with dimensions and a picture, and a hand-checked packing list.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:35
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Mighty Horse posted:Was that the yard thats on row52? Thats gotta be an 80. I had a 79 with the VW engine and the grill on mine was much more spectacular.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:41
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kastein posted:
The only thing that irritates me about Rock Auto. I've had a $40 order turn into an $80 order because of their multiple shipping. Still cheaper than the local auto parts stores, though, even with that.
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Mar 7, 2014 19:40
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Darchangel posted:The only thing that irritates me about Rock Auto. I've had a $40 order turn into an $80 order because of their multiple shipping. Still cheaper than the local auto parts stores, though, even with that. There is now a button that lets you find compatible parts from the least number of warehouses. Of course, that usually means you end up with expensive stuff that doesn't need to be - and completely cheap poo poo that shouldn't be. 
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Mar 7, 2014 19:44
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West SAAB Story posted:There is now a button that lets you find compatible parts from the least number of warehouses. Of course, that usually means you end up with expensive stuff that doesn't need to be - and completely cheap poo poo that shouldn't be. Oh, I know. Doesn't help, sometimes, though in the case mentioned above, it saved me a little with a more expensive part, but cheaper shipping that more than made up for it.
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Mar 7, 2014 19:56
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That's what they told me too. My noting that I wanted Timken not MeevoTech/Deeza/Auto Extra fell on deaf ears. And that was trying to select things that were from the same warehouse as other things I already had in my cart - at some point it simply exploded and reorganized everything into a million warehouses instead of the 3-4 I had things ordered from in the first place. So I moved like 50 bucks of poo poo from my rockauto order to my summit order (since anything over $100 gets free shipping there... as opposed to being penalized) and saved a ton on shipping. It ended up being "only" six warehouses.
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Mar 7, 2014 20:20
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kastein posted:It ended up being "only" six warehouses. From what I understand is they buy close outs and so on from other locations.... so the parts may not actually come from a warehouse with Rock Auto stamped on the door. Per RockAuto rockauto.com posted:RockAuto customers choose their own parts using our online catalog. We ship directly to our customers from wholesale warehouses or manufacturers. We have no retail stores, no counter-people and we don't have a lot of money tied up in slow-moving inventory. We pass the savings on to our customers with lower prices. Our cost savings are all in distribution, though--the parts we sell are the same first-quality merchandise you'd find in any reputable store.
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Mar 7, 2014 20:36
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That's almost as bad as quadratec having lots of their stuff not even in their own warehouse. $2200 lift kit, lol no tracking number 'cause they sent the order to Currie directly (which I would have done but quadratec was $90 cheaper), hope you can work from home for a week or your clearly labelled expensive poo poo will be sitting on your front porch. The same thing happened with the SYE kit, I'm definitely being more wary of that poo poo from now on.
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Mar 7, 2014 21:06
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EightBit posted:That's almost as bad as quadratec having lots of their stuff not even in their own warehouse. $2200 lift kit, lol no tracking number 'cause they sent the order to Currie directly (which I would have done but quadratec was $90 cheaper), hope you can work from home for a week or your clearly labelled expensive poo poo will be sitting on your front porch. The same thing happened with the SYE kit, I'm definitely being more wary of that poo poo from now on. Ship to your place of employment, if you can. I know they sometimes don't like to do that with a credit card.
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Mar 7, 2014 22:09
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Darchangel posted:Ship to your place of employment, if you can. I know they sometimes don't like to do that with a credit card. You just need to call the credit card company and tell them that is a verified address. Generally it's the credit card and not the merchant that cares about things like that. Now, whether your employer is OK with the receiving dock unloading your snow tires with no corresponding order in the MRP system is another matter...
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Mar 7, 2014 23:03
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