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Lumpy (possibly defective), as well as all season or cold weather tires (especially a mismatched set) can greatly affect steering feel and drivability. Perhaps start there?
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Mar 4, 2014 20:43
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Keyser S0ze posted:Lumpy (possibly defective), as well as all season or cold weather tires (especially a mismatched set) can greatly affect steering feel and drivability. Perhaps start there? I was on the 4x matching winters, swapped a khumo onto the most suspect wheel before driving home today and the problem got worse! I've got a decent Dunlop winter tire, and two more kuumos so I may swap the front left, or possibly both sides out again tomorrow if I have time. Oh, and the TC light doesn't come on alongside the vibration, and giving it a bit of welly and getting the back to break traction (getting TC to kick in) doesn't cause any vibration.
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Mar 4, 2014 20:50
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stump posted:2. After driving over bumps at speed, the vibration continues, fading away like a bouncing ball. Ditto on feeling it from the left wheel, feeling it through the steering. Shocks. Do all 4.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:00
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SlapActionJackson posted:Shocks. Do all 4. Not the worst outcome, if it's likely to fix my issues. I've been meaning to do it for 50,000 miles. Is it worth doing springs while I'm at it? And are any of the cheaper (I.e. Not £800 worth of bilstein) aftermarket options worth it?
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Mar 4, 2014 21:35
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IIRC Bilstein doesn't do springs unless you're referring to their coilover setups. Price out H&R springs, that's going to be your best value.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:42
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After a ATF and filter change the transmission feels brand new, its virtually seamless shifts now. Changed at 65 K miles, old liquid looked black and nasty, so much for that bogus "lifetime ATF". Next new battery and just keep general Maintenance.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:46
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I'm not sure how brit pricing works, but in NA it's about 1k USD to get springs + decent shocks if you go aftermarket, unless you wait for a deal. OE shocks are generally a lot cheaper. OE Springs are generally way more expensive.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:52
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Buy some used springs if you can find them--they don't really wear at all.
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Mar 4, 2014 23:56
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I've done a bit of reading and I'm going to go for Sachs (I think they are OEM?) shocks and leave the springs for now. Euro car parts has four for £190. Eibach springs look like a decent bet but I'm a bit skint so they can wait. Not convinced I want to lower it anyway, as I end up battering down rough tracks now and then. The Bilsteins I was referring to were the B12 kit, with Eibach springs. I've actually seen them for ~£650, but like I said, skint! Edit: Ps. Cheers Guys! Was considering trying to get the front shocks done tomorrow afternoon but ECP only have the right hand side so I'll take it easy till the weekend and do it then. stump fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 00:18
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BraveUlysses posted:Oh man, I probably shouldn't be looking at E9x M3 sedans but prices are really looking better every day for the 08-09 models, mid-30's range. Any problems with the earlier models? Welcome to mein kampf (  ). They seem to be pretty well sorted out platforms and as the new generation M3/4 come to market it will drive prices down further.
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Mar 5, 2014 04:35
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Have the E90 fuel pumps stopped exploding at this point?
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Mar 5, 2014 06:25
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8ender posted:Have the E90 fuel pumps stopped exploding at this point? That's an issue in the turbo models (335s), it has nothing to do with the naturally aspirated V8 in the M3.
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Mar 5, 2014 06:38
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Does anybody have experience or advice with a replaced/repaired ECU from https://www.ecudoctors.com ? My M3 has abad case of Kentucky Fried Computer, and spending nearly $2000 on a new one is.. uhh... really not preferable.
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Mar 5, 2014 13:46
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What car?
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Mar 5, 2014 14:56
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He's got an E36 IIRC
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Mar 5, 2014 15:24
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Oof, ya. 99
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Mar 5, 2014 15:56
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I just had a fun repair on my e90. My dashboard and hvac controls were turning off while driving, then coming back on with all kinds of error lights and a tpms warning. Turns out the tpms receiver poo poo the bed and was flooding the canbus with garbage, leading to component resets. They replaced it under warranty and everything is fine, but drat was I worried that would be a pricey instrument-panel related fix.
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Mar 5, 2014 16:52
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juche mane posted:Oof, ya. 99 Do you care about EWS? You could grab a used DME with ews deleted for easily half their repair price. Or get a used DME with ews and anyone with a GT1 or even a laptop with INPA can align the new DME with existing EWS. If that site can't fix yours you'll need to have it done anyway.
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Mar 5, 2014 17:41
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This evening I had a chance to test the pressure of my cylinders, hoping my 1996 328is *doesn't* need a headgasket replacement. Result:
Pictures of spark plugs (click through to my Flickr for bigger)  Cylinder Test 1 by Execudork, on Flickr  Cylinder Test 2 by Execudork, on Flickr  Cylinder Test 3 by Execudork, on Flickr  Cylinder Test 4 by Execudork, on Flickr  Cylinder Test 5 by Execudork, on Flickr  Cylinder Test 6 by Execudork, on Flickr That big difference from C1 to C2 combined with the white crusties on the spark plugs seems consistent with "bad headgasket". I'd love a second opinion, though.
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Mar 6, 2014 04:01
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Pressurize the cylinders one at a time while measuring the pressure in the cooling system...
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Mar 6, 2014 04:03
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Throw away those ridiculous multi-electrode plugs while you're at it.
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Mar 6, 2014 08:32
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Das Volk posted:Throw away those ridiculous multi-electrode plugs while you're at it. Those are OEM...
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Mar 6, 2014 13:18
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E46 2l diesel touring: moderate or higher acceleration starts a shudder in the drivetrain. Backing of a little and reapplying throttle makes it go away, but I can pretty much do it on demand, what should I be looking at replacing?
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Mar 6, 2014 22:49
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Cakefool posted:E46 2l diesel touring: moderate or higher acceleration starts a shudder in the drivetrain. Backing of a little and reapplying throttle makes it go away, but I can pretty much do it on demand, what should I be looking at replacing? Same thing in every gear?
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Mar 6, 2014 23:34
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Cakefool posted:E46 2l diesel touring: moderate or higher acceleration starts a shudder in the drivetrain. Backing of a little and reapplying throttle makes it go away, but I can pretty much do it on demand, what should I be looking at replacing? does it get worse with higher and higher revs? could be a guibo
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Mar 6, 2014 23:48
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:I'm ready to push this car off a cliff. VelociBacon posted:Sounds like it's turning to a non cold-temp fuel mapping when it starts to run improperly (because it's happening 5 min from your house and because it would reset/relearn possibly when you reset the codes, thus causing it to relearn when it's about 5 min from your work). It could be a problem with the O2 sensor like the car is trying to tell you - have you had it looked at? Next time it starts to run like poo poo pop the hood and unplug the MAF and see if that does anything - it could be a MAF problem too in which case unplugging it wouldn't affect anything. The dash lights are probably fading in and out because it's idling very low at times when it's not running correctly. gently caress this loving piece of poo poo. I finally got around to replacing the other o2 sensor, but I'm still getting the Lambda #1 and Oxygen Sensor #1 codes. I have the M60 V8. Passenger side is #1, right? I swapped the o2 sensor heater relay in the E-box with the other 4 pin relay, but the code still pops up. Fuel economy is actually worse somehow. The DWA/EWS code keeps coming up, but that's a security code and is unrelated, right? The difference is that the light is only on sporadically. It seems pretty random. It'll pop on for a split second, then go out. Then at a stoplight, it'll stay on for a bit. It doesn't seem to happen at a consistent event, like acceleration or deceleration. I have a fuel filter on order. I don't know what else to do. I have a spare IAC valve and a spare MAF I can try. I might go ahead and get a new relay. EDIT: I swapped both the MAF and the IAC and it runs a little better. The CEL was still coming on, but fuel economy was better. I should be more systematic and only swap one at a time. Asshole Bicycle fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Mar 7, 2014 |
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Mar 7, 2014 01:34
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I'm starting to think I'm going to have to replace my battery this year, since I've drained it flat twice now trying to start it in cold weather. So far, hooking it up to a charger has done the job, but I'm worried it's just going to stop working altogether one of these days. Since I've got an E90, I was under the impression I couldn't just pop in a new battery and call it a day right? I have to go get the computer reset or something like that? is that something I can do myself with the right tool, or am I going to have to take it to a dealer so they can hook up Cerebro to do something. I have to assume an aftermarket battery+tool is still going to be cheaper then whatever a dealer is going to charge me to replace a battery.
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Mar 7, 2014 22:48
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Cakefool posted:E46 2l diesel touring: moderate or higher acceleration starts a shudder in the drivetrain. Backing of a little and reapplying throttle makes it go away, but I can pretty much do it on demand, what should I be looking at replacing? Have the swirl flaps been done? I have heard of them causing quite serious vibrations prior to failure. Not saying it def. is that, but worth checking as if they do go it's v. bad news. Mine is at 166k and they haven't popped yet.... I really should do the delete  Swirl flap vibrations: http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=114469 Despite an utterly hosed front shock my e46 made it all they way Uist with gusto. So it's a shame the ferry is hosed and I won't be going home till sunday... that's the plan for fixing it scuppered!
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Mar 7, 2014 23:10
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Funzo posted:I'm starting to think I'm going to have to replace my battery this year, since I've drained it flat twice now trying to start it in cold weather. So far, hooking it up to a charger has done the job, but I'm worried it's just going to stop working altogether one of these days. An online coder can do it via Teamviewer and some BMWtech tools. I used a well regarded one who is on Bimmerfest/Bimmerworld to code some E90 features. You might want to search those forums for "E90 Battery Coding"
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Mar 7, 2014 23:26
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but, I have a BMW. It's my only car. I put about 2500 miles a year on it. I don't use it to commute to work. It's only worth about $3200-4000, which means I pay about 25% of it's value in insurance each year. Can I get my insurance cheaper if I list it as a collector's car or ______ special insurance so long as I keep it under X miles? Because right now it costs me about $0.34/mile to insure the drat thing. It's actually cheaper to not insure it, and pay any "uninsured driver" tickets I might get* @ $450 ea *I don't recommend breaking the law
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Mar 8, 2014 02:52
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If it's your only car, most insurance companies won't give you classic car insurance.
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Mar 8, 2014 03:02
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You should probably ask in the insurance thread. I know my company, State Farm, gives a discount for low mileage. They don't even ask for proof, they just mail me a thing each year and I have to write in the mileage.
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Mar 8, 2014 03:06
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ColdPie posted:You should probably ask in the insurance thread. I know my company, State Farm, gives a discount for low mileage. They don't even ask for proof, they just mail me a thing each year and I have to write in the mileage.
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Mar 8, 2014 04:42
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Hadlock posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but, What year is your car? What state are you in?
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Mar 8, 2014 04:59
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Ziploc posted:Same thing in every gear? Yes. BraveUlysses posted:does it get worse with higher and higher revs? could be a guibo It does. stump posted:Have the swirl flaps been done? I have heard of them causing quite serious vibrations prior to failure. Not saying it def. is that, but worth checking as if they do go it's v. bad news. Mine is at 166k and they haven't popped yet.... I really should do the delete Oh crap I remember reading about these  I'll check the guibo and read up on swirl flaps again, I've never pulled an intake, I don't want to do out twice if I forget something. Thanks guys, very helpful.
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Mar 8, 2014 07:15
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Hadlock posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but, Wait, are you talking about not having 3rd party injury/property insurance? If so, that's a terrible loving idea. Hit a Ferrari or worse, a person, and you're ruined forever. I don't know how the insurance system works where you are, but where I am you only get in trouble for driving without insurance that covers injury to other people (but you'd be a loving idiot to not have 3rd party property or personal injury). Don't do this. Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Mar 8, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 07:57
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Cakefool posted:I'll check the guibo and read up on swirl flaps again, I've never pulled an intake, I don't want to do out twice if I forget something.
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Mar 8, 2014 14:34
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Halfway through downpipe install on the 335i..poo poo reminds me of the frustration working on 300Z and 3000GT. No room for hands, elbows, arms, tools, loving AIR... A dozen bolts and 4 hours later I'm one v-band clamp away from reassembly, but FML the clearance to have the band snap properly on the front turbo and downpipe simultaneously is killing me. edit: finally got everything back together and switched the JB4 to map 2. Quit a respectable difference, the car easily breaks 2nd gear loose from a roll (in an auto). Overall the apprehension I felt from owning a 335i has disappeared. I've gotten familiar with servicing it, code read/clearing, and maintenance. If anyone is considering it...just do it. S.W.G. fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 18:19
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Coolant? On my floor pan? Goddamned thread title strikes again
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Mar 9, 2014 02:58
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Anyone have any luck doing foamectomies on E36 seats?
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Mar 9, 2014 03:57
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