|
Yeah they are friends of mine and have been known to work on the occasional subaru.
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
I've been noticing a few drops of oil in my intercooler couplers, how much is too much? There seems to be enough in the throttle body coupler to coat the coupler evenly. The turbo and downpipe appear to be fine, so I don't think the seals have gone kaput. Should I bother with a vented catch can to keep things clean? Ideally, I'd like to get another season of track days out of this motor, before a rebuild comes into play. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2014 22:15
|
|
|
I own a 99 outback with about 184,000 miles on it. It had the head gaskets done once before, but it's showing signs of another failure so I'm hoping to get it replaced with non-lovely gaskets this time. Anything else I should replace while the engine's out? I'm thinking the valve cover gasket, valve seals, cam and crank seals, and oil seperator plate if that's the lovely plastic one still.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2014 22:24
|
|
|
McSpatula posted:I've been noticing a few drops of oil in my intercooler couplers, how much is too much? There seems to be enough in the throttle body coupler to coat the coupler evenly. I've never really seen one that was completely clean. Also, I consider catch cans borderline useless, since they are usually only connected to one of the three pcv lines that recirculates back into the intake system. If you start messing with that stuff I would go straight to a air-oil separator like the crawford that bypasses everything.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2014 22:34
|
|
|
The quote from UMS is around $1800 (includes $350 of machining work if needed to flatten the head surface), and that's in line with a couple other mechanics I've checked out since this morning. Really on the edge of doing it myself, even on the side of the road, but I know I probably couldn't/wouldn't spring for machining due to turn-around time at a machine shop vs them doing it themselves.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2014 23:09
|
|
|
Any reason a P0420 wouldn't cause the check engine light to come on? I had a CEL come on, a P0420, and I cleared it and didn't think about it any further. Out of idle curiosity and the check engine light appearing to flash on much quicker than the rest of the warning lights at startup I plugged my code reader in, and low and behold P0420. I cleared it again, and don't really care about the code (ill deal with it eventually, probably just an O2 sensor) but I'm more concerned with the lack of CEL. The light does flash at startup, so I know the light works, but why wouldn't I get a CEL? I've put a full tank through it since clearing it the first time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 18:20
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:Any reason a P0420 wouldn't cause the check engine light to come on? Some codes don't trigger a CEL and as far as I can tell it's different on every car which ones do and do not.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 21:52
|
|
|
Yeah, that matches with what I've been able to find. It may need to have the code active for a certain number of drive cycles before it throws a CEL, and despite the full tank it's probably only been two drive cycles, as I live 3km from work. The CEL lights up when the key is in on but the car isn't started, so I'm not going to worry about it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
Yeah, I get periodic "bank x sensor x" lean codes on our 1998 Ford Explorer. It's pretty random how and when they pop the CEL; sometimes the codes will be pending for days, disappear, come back to pending, disappear again, then the CEL lights up a month later even after the code is gone (all information according to Torque and my OBDII reader). Other times the car will be fine for weeks, then the CEL lights without any warning or pending code set. Codes have certain parameters they have to meet before they'll light up the CEL. Some codes light it up immediately, whereas others need very specific conditions to be met. I remember a code for the CPS on my Delta 98 needed something like "Five consecutive startups that reach closed loop with a knock sensor error on at least three of the five" or some poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 23:15
|
|
|
My feelings toward ej25s.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 23:21
|
|
|
Subaru chat: we all hate Subarus.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 23:24
|
|
|
There's a distinct lack of rust in that photo. I just replaced my battery J hook bolt things, they looked like this: The nut and hook had become one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 23:31
|
|
|
jamal posted:Subaru chat: we all hate Subarus. What'd you blow up now?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 00:16
|
|
|
Old picture. Last thing that broke was the clutch fork and that was over a year ago. Not a fun job to do on jackstands with hand tools. Never driving the car probably helps. I did something like 4500mi last year and it was only that many because I drove it to lethbridge twice.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 00:20
|
|
|
Oh, are we telling our Subarus how we really feel about them? I want to play but it's dark so this will have to do until tomorrow. ....................../´¯/) ....................,/¯../ .................../..../ ............./´¯/'...'/´¯¯`·¸ ........../'/.../..../......./¨¯\ ........('(...´...´.... ¯~/'...') .........\.................'...../ ..........''...\.......... _.·´ ............\..............( ..............\.............\...
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 00:49
|
|
|
I'm putting a 2.2 in the drat thing, to hell with 2.5s. Also, I pulled the 2.2 shortblock at the junkyard, while it was windy and snowing, by myself. I was really hating subarus by the end of the day. Really bad. I didn't have an engine crane or anything, pure rage got the thing out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 03:43
|
|
|
Oh man, so after getting both axles done on my 99 impreza 5mt, Ive come to the conclusion that I also need a new viscous coupling. 4x4 like herking and jerking on hard left or right turns.. seems like the pretty typical symptom of a bad vc. Whats my best course of action here? Id really like to find a used one and have a garage install it. Id love to do it myself, but dont really have the space to do it in. Plus im lazy. Anyone know where I could find a good used unit outside san francisco?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
 HOORAY 
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 04:49
|
|
|
That looks expensive.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 04:51
|
|
|
It felt expensive, too. Shifting to 3rd or 4th coming on to a highway (not driving stupid or anything) and the transmission turned into a tamborine. Shifter won't move from its current 0.5th gear position and the clutch just slips forever.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 05:34
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:I'm putting a 2.2 in the drat thing, to hell with 2.5s. Also, I pulled the 2.2 shortblock at the junkyard, while it was windy and snowing, by myself. I was really hating subarus by the end of the day. Really bad. I didn't have an engine crane or anything, pure rage got the thing out. You're saying that, instead of doing new headgaskets on my 2.5, I can use the pent up rage and strongarm a 2.2 out of a car (for what looks like way less money than even the HG job on my 2.5)? Y'know, the engine still runs. Does a 2.2 longblock fit into the rear of an outback?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 06:13
|
|
|
General maintenance question for a 2005 WRX 103k miles, planning on keeping it for a while. Going to change the timing belt, is it wise to also change the water pump and tensioner/idlers at the same time?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 06:14
|
|
|
Alzabo posted:General maintenance question for a 2005 WRX 103k miles, planning on keeping it for a while. Always change the tensioners and idlers, water pumps are less of an issue on subaru motors but I still replaced that also. Do your thermostat at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 06:33
|
|
|
Holy poo poo I checked out the latest on this thread to see how things were doing in Subaru land and goddamn it is depressing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 07:41
|
|
|
8ender posted:Holy poo poo I checked out the latest on this thread to see how things were doing in Subaru land and goddamn it is depressing. I still <3 mine only 7000 miles on the clock
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 08:32
|
|
|
8ender posted:Holy poo poo I checked out the latest on this thread to see how things were doing in Subaru land and goddamn it is depressing. You should see how many pieces mine is in at present.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 10:50
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:You're saying that, instead of doing new headgaskets on my 2.5, I can use the pent up rage and strongarm a 2.2 out of a car (for what looks like way less money than even the HG job on my 2.5)? You could probably fit 5 subaru longblocks in the back of an outback. I took this one home in the back seat of my GL sedan, there was a generator in the back seat, too. Seat cushions removed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 16:07
|
|
|
I'd be pretty disappointed if they didn't git in my Impreza wagon, aren't outbacks bigger?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 16:26
|
|
|
Outback is the big one. Outback SPORT is the lifted impreza hatch. You can fit an EJ in the trunk of a sedan if you remove the spare tire and play tetris right. If you strip them down they are even smaller. Once I can bench test EJ25s, I will be harvesting them en mass.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 16:34
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:You should see how many pieces mine is in at present. You guys are pulling ahead of the BMW thread for random mechanical mishap which is impressive.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 18:11
|
|
|
You can fit lots of engines in the back of a sedan if they are taken apart:   
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 18:50
|
|
|
Got an invidia downpipe on order and a friend may have a used grimmspeed up pipe to sell me. I put the car on the lift last night just to see what I was in for, as well as soak any bolts I could with PB in preparation for the job. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like I will need to drop the exhaust headers to take off the up pipe. Will I need to get all new gaskets, or am I likely going to be able to just bolt the headers back on with the same gaskets? I'll have new gaskets for both ends of the up pipe connection and the turbo side of the down pipe. I will probably grab a new DP to MP donut as well since the old one looks a bit crusty and I don't think it'll survive the removal of the old DP. Anything else I should be prepared for?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 19:02
|
|
|
This roof rack is silly, I can't figure out what brand it actually is. It says Subaru all over, but doesn't match with the look of the factory racks, and it looks like its narrower than the factory rails. Pictures to follow later, but I'm guessing at a dealer installed option. I'm going to leave the flat tracks on the roof so I can reinstall, but I don't know if I can take the pods for the horizontal beams off too. Actually it looks pretty similar to the Yakima tracks. Anyone know if these were a factory or dealer option at some point?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
Mine has a Subaru branded rack that is an exact fit for Yakima parts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 19:50
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:You could probably fit 5 subaru longblocks in the back of an outback. I took this one home in the back seat of my GL sedan, there was a generator in the back seat, too. Seat cushions removed. So, the 96-99 2.2 M/T bolts right up to the 97 2.5 M/T and engine mount points, right...?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 20:11
|
|
|
Hillridge posted:Got an invidia downpipe on order and a friend may have a used grimmspeed up pipe to sell me. I put the car on the lift last night just to see what I was in for, as well as soak any bolts I could with PB in preparation for the job. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like I will need to drop the exhaust headers to take off the up pipe. Will I need to get all new gaskets, or am I likely going to be able to just bolt the headers back on with the same gaskets? I just assembled my up pipe and turbo for my wrx. It took me forever and that's with the engine out of the car. Be ready for a multi day project.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 20:30
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:So, the 96-99 2.2 M/T bolts right up to the 97 2.5 M/T and engine mount points, right...? Yes they are all pretty much the same, even the 6-cylinders. The 99+ engines are what is called "phase 2," and they have extra mounting points on the engine, and the starter bolts through the trans to the block instead of sitting on a stud on the transmission. That only becomes a problem if you use a newer transmission with an older block because there isn't a place to put the lower starter bolt.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 20:44
|
|
|
I think, instead of ponying up $400 + labor (or $400 + a week of my time) to do the head gaskets in situ on this car, I may just pick up a used 2.2 and plop it in. A drop in power, but this is a DD and I don't exactly go hooning in it. Hell, I'd find one of those kitted or stock turbo ones but I don't want to change the exhaust. Thanks a bunch for the help - it has given me a few ideas.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
Hillridge posted:Got an invidia downpipe on order and a friend may have a used grimmspeed up pipe to sell me. I put the car on the lift last night just to see what I was in for, as well as soak any bolts I could with PB in preparation for the job. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like I will need to drop the exhaust headers to take off the up pipe. Will I need to get all new gaskets, or am I likely going to be able to just bolt the headers back on with the same gaskets? New gaskets is always a good idea. There's nothing worse then going through the headache of installing an uppipe just to have to take it all apart again to replace a leaky gasket. Header gaskets could go either way, but I've definitely had them leak before. Sounded like a spun bearing and scared the poo poo out of me. You will have to drop the header to get at it. My advice for the install is to get every bolt on the turbo, b/w the UP and the header, and from the header to the heads on loosely before you start to tighten anything. Then tighten them in order of to the heads, to the turbo, and b/w the UP and header.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 07:04 |
|
|
Geirskogul posted:I think, instead of ponying up $400 + labor (or $400 + a week of my time) to do the head gaskets in situ on this car, I may just pick up a used 2.2 and plop it in. A drop in power, but this is a DD and I don't exactly go hooning in it. Hell, I'd find one of those kitted or stock turbo ones but I don't want to change the exhaust. Thanks a bunch for the help - it has given me a few ideas. You'll have to change at least the header for second-generation single port 2.2s. I'd just do the EJ25 head gaskets and never worry about it again. Torque!!!!
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2014 21:06
|
|