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Yeah it's pretty amazing. Much deeper and more engaging than Bolt Action.
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Mar 9, 2014 08:16
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But you can just play it with any old 28mm WW2 miniature right? Does it use army lists with point buy? Does anyone know how the Perry miniatures scale up to the Warlord games minis or any other minis? I want to make a DAK army and the Warlord website sells the Perry minis because they don't have most of the support elements other companies offer (MG, types of mortars). Anyone have any idea how I can get a reasonable effective DAK army without having the miniatures scale go crazy?
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Mar 11, 2014 12:08
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Commissar Kip posted:But you can just play it with any old 28mm WW2 miniature right? Does it use army lists with point buy? Yeah, you can even play it at smaller scales like 15mm if you want to keep things cheap. The way you do army lists in Chain of Command, is that you just pick out a platoon, and it gives you a value between like -7(for a green Soviet infantry platoon) and +6(I think for a veteran US armored rifle platoon). The customization in your force comes at scenario selection, when that value becomes how many picks you get off the support table upon the start of a scenario, and the support picks for each nationality are different and have graduated costs, and can include anything from an extra squad to a forward observer to a tank.
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Mar 11, 2014 12:33
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After a month and a half of waiting I have finally received a packet filled with tiny metal samurai. They look really good, but seeing this many little soldiers is a bit intimidating.
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Mar 11, 2014 12:48
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Thanks for the reply Panzeh. Sounds cool - I'll try to order the game. Lord_Hambrose - what seller did you get the tiny metal samurais from? I've been looking at a Feudal Japan wargame and i've only found this: http://kensei.zenitminiatures.es/index.php/en/. It's a Spanish company that does a 28mm Feudal Japanese skirmish game. Only problem is dat no one outside of Spain seems to be playing this. Luckily I have a brother who I can play with - can you guys suggest some other games we could look at? Preferably 28mm skirmish.
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Mar 11, 2014 13:01
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Commissar Kip posted:Thanks for the reply Panzeh. Sounds cool - I'll try to order the game. I have some reviews of samurai on my homepage, though not all of the manufacturers that I've painted up. I should get around to update it. http://muraminiatures.com/articles.html As for rules, there's also Ronin from Osprey Publishing if you want to try a simple skirmish game. The campaign rules in the game are so-so, but they are working on an expansion style addition with new campaign rules. If nothing else, it's quite cheap: http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Ronin-%E2%80%93-Skirmish-Wargames-in-the-Age-of-the-Samurai_9781780968469 I have a Kensei starter box but haven't painted any of them yet, as I'm busy painting up a 15mm scale samurai commission. Only some 50 guys left. *sigh*
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Mar 11, 2014 13:11
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I post Monty in the comics thread and this was today's contribution: I felt it might be appreciated here.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:08
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Indolent Bastard posted:I post Monty in the comics thread and this was today's contribution: But... but... Jarvis is deploying Wellington's troops (with no hills in sight), and Remy is deploying Napoleon's troops (next to hills?), but Jarvis's troops are white and Remy's troops are red??? 
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Mar 11, 2014 15:45
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Any Euro Goons have a chance to try out Jugula yet? I like Saga and Muskets and Tomahawks is very good (only played it twice though, I really need to get it on the table more).
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Mar 11, 2014 15:45
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Is there any great place to start with Napoleonics? I mean, is there an equivalent to FoW's Open Fire box full of rules and models?
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Mar 11, 2014 15:56
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moths posted:Is there any great place to start with Napoleonics? I mean, is there an equivalent to FoW's Open Fire box full of rules and models? Are you married to a certain scale? Personally, a mate and I had great fun with two starter armies (so, like 30-40 bucks/side) of 6mm minis from Baccus6mm and Adler. I got a "Napoleonic British Army Pack 1806-1812" from Baccus which is 35 quid EU, 30 quid International, and after my first game I ordered some more artillery and scottish infantry (just because), but it was pretty much enough to have a solid army. While both together are more than the Open Fire box, you do end up with two fieldable armies, and everything else is just optional but not really, of course, as there are sooo many toys. Everyone needs limber wagons for every artillery piece, right? And little ambulance carts? And windmills?.  This is not even the entire starter army set, there's even more cavalry that I haven't based yet, and some infantry I mean, just watch this magnificient Web 1.0 site. You know you want to. I'm happy with my Baccus army,but I personally think that Adler look nicer and more dynamic (if not necessarily as realistic) and I'm thinking of adding more Adler to my army in the future. But you don't need that much to begin with. If you want 28mm I would get a box or four of plastics from Perry Miniatures, Warlord Games or Victrix. The last years saw a ton of good plastic kits, and more and more sides are covered now. But you know, if you go 6 or 10 mm, there's a chance you will ever get to paint an entire army! Because man, painting hundreds upon hundreds of identical uniforms with tons of little details is a very special thing, and doesn't suit everyone. Just putting together a box of 28mm Perry British took me about as much time as it took to paint all my 6mm cavalry. E: Victrix has regular sales, often "buy 3 boxes for the price of 2" or similar, around holidays. It's worth to keep an eye out if you go the 28mm route. As for rules, I've only tried Lasalle but I really liked it. The first time I played it I just went with what little I had picked up on Napoleonic warfare from books, and the various units worked pretty much as I thought they would. I really like how cavalry works (and how it doesn't!). And you just need a couple of stands (think 2-3 infantry units, 1-2 batteries of artillery and 1-2 units of cavalry) to get an interesting game. Another popular game is Black Powder, but I haven't tried it. Either way, most Napoleonic rules are not so deeply concerned about exactly how you base your stuff, so it's easy to switch if a certain ruleset doesn't suit you. Basing is also usually not that much of a big deal, as long as both sides use units of somewhat similar sizes. Baccus has a starter army deal thingy with armies as well as their "Polemos" ruleset, but I've never tried it, so I won't say anything more than that. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 16:24
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Oh man thanks, that is a lot of great information and I'd never even considered 6mm for Napoleonics - but it could be a great fit, especially on sale. Is Black Powder based on the old Warmaster engine? And how is Sharp Practice? Edit: F me, those look awesome. moths fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 16:36
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lilljonas posted:But... but... Jarvis is deploying Wellington's troops (with no hills in sight), and Remy is deploying Napoleon's troops (next to hills?), but Jarvis's troops are white and Remy's troops are red??? That's not the proper deployment for Napoleon's troops in June of 1815!
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Mar 11, 2014 16:50
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lilljonas posted:
I'm getting back into war-gaming, and want to start a historical game, I like the massed troops of baccus, and their army packs do seem to have a good spread of troops - of course you'll need to get the more unique troops from each side separately, but they do seem the way to go.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:05
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Had an interesting case of cocked dice during last Sunday's game of FoW: 
Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Mar 11, 2014 |
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Mar 11, 2014 17:20
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That means you automatically win the war.
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Mar 11, 2014 17:35
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Or you are about to be burned as a gaming witch!
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Mar 11, 2014 17:43
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moths posted:
Yes, If you played Warmaster you will slide right into BlackPowder, while not exactly the same, it is pretty darn close. Works really well for large multiplayer games too. I haven't tried sharp practice as the scale seems off to me, for Napoleonics I want a ton of troops on the table, everything should be Grand scale and SP seems more small/local scale. Might be good for Peninsular Wars, but 100 Days and the big battles are where I tend to lean. Also played a nice big Borodino game of volley and bayonet, not super familiar with the system, but it was fun and worked well (was 6mm troops on a 5x12' table)
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Mar 11, 2014 19:16
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I think I was one of the six Americans who liked Warmaster, and those Bacchus figures look great. So this could be an expensive 2014 if I find time to paint up hundreds of tiny Napoleons between CoC platoons...
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Mar 11, 2014 19:58
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I hear good things about Samurai Saga as well, but I'm not sure if it's really more than some loose lists on a forum at this point.
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Mar 11, 2014 21:13
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Why did nobody mention Command and Colours as a good way of getting started quickly while painting mans? You should all be ashamed.TheBlobThing posted:Had an interesting case of cocked dice during last Sunday's game of FoW:
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Mar 11, 2014 22:36
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Don't bother mentioning to her that on a non Casino die 6 is the most common number while 1 is the least common.
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Mar 11, 2014 23:08
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Actually on those ones there's a bias towards rolling a 1. It happens about 22% of the time. Some crazy guy over in the GW threads once abused his position at MIT and had a bunch of grad students stick 144 dice in little compartments onto a vibration table to "roll" them a couple of thousand times and record the results.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:00
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Arquinsiel posted:Some crazy guy over in the GW threads once abused his position at MIT and had a bunch of grad students stick 144 dice in little compartments onto a vibration table to "roll" them a couple of thousand times and record the results. You say that like there's a better use for grad students  Also if someone made a box of the 95th Rifles from Sharpe like the Dad's Army box Warlord is doing, I'd be all the gently caress over it
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Mar 12, 2014 00:31
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I've been waiting for Victrix to come out with 54mm Riflemen with their new(ish) line so I could convert some up, although Harper's Nock gun would be hard to do.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:39
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Commissar Kip posted:
I got my stuff from here http://www.miniaturefigurines.co.uk/Catalogue.aspx?ScaleID=17&CategoryID=58 I guess this company bought the old Two Dragons(?) molds, which were well received. After getting them I can certainly see why. I am planning on getting a batch of Peter Pig samurai next to see how they compare.
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Mar 12, 2014 04:22
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Lord_Hambrose posted:I got my stuff from here http://www.miniaturefigurines.co.uk/Catalogue.aspx?ScaleID=17&CategoryID=58 Nice to see a new home for Two Dragon's then, they were OOP for a long time even though they were popular. My current commission is from Peter Pig, and they are pretty nice.  And speaking of Napoleonics, I just found pics of the 28mm plastic Perry's that I painted up for my dad. While I will keep doing the period in 6mm because I like huge armies and because they are faster to paint up, I would't say that 28mm would be a bad choice either. 
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Mar 12, 2014 08:52
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Don't bother mentioning to her that on a non Casino die 6 is the most common number while 1 is the least common. As for casino dice, the moment someone brings those out I'm looking for signs of cheating. Yeah they're better/fairer in theory, but the practice is that no one brings them with an appropriate felt-lined tray or a dice tower, and they're waaay easier to just place instead of properly rolling (with the inevitable "of course that roll counts!". No it's not a roll if it hasn't rolled at all you assholes). 
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Mar 12, 2014 10:58
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Pierzak posted:Is that because each pip means slightly less weight on that side? Why not use the ones with a giant red pip on the 1 side, or numbered dice instead? (besides, the dice sold in cubes will often have air bubbles inside anyway) Someone post that youtube clip from a con with the extremely nerdy dice retailer, I can't find it. But yes, it has to do with all kinds of things, including how the dice are tumbled to remove casting imperfections.
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Mar 12, 2014 11:15
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 I just went to my post history to find the dice sperg video and the jerk that posted them made them private! The nerve! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR2fxoNHIuU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxmkWrDbn34
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Mar 12, 2014 14:32
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I need to write the "rules" for this game.
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Mar 12, 2014 15:06
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lilljonas posted:Someone post that youtube clip from a con with the extremely nerdy dice retailer, I can't find it. But yes, it has to do with all kinds of things, including how the dice are tumbled to remove casting imperfections.
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Mar 12, 2014 22:13
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Gamescience dice. Didn't they get pulled from production?
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Mar 12, 2014 22:21
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Arquinsiel posted:A friend of mine bought a D&D set of them ages back for the hell of it. She says she's never seen dice so poorly made. I love that several people know exactly which guy I meant, merely by the phrase "that nerdy dice retailer". Knowing that the dice suck makes it so much sweeter.
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Mar 12, 2014 22:22
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lilljonas posted:I love that several people know exactly which guy I meant, merely by the phrase "that nerdy dice retailer". Knowing that the dice suck makes it so much sweeter. His Wikipedia article was truly exciting.
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Mar 12, 2014 22:30
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Are you talking about the supposedly super-precise dice that come on a loving sprue and if you cut/file them imperfectly they get a probability spike? (not to mention what happens if the sprue gets bent during shipping)
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Mar 12, 2014 22:37
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Is that how they came? I don't know. I found a cool Wikipedia article:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamescience
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Mar 13, 2014 00:08
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I got a couple of those because I thought they were like casino dice for gamers, but yeah, they've got sprue flash on them..
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Mar 13, 2014 00:10
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God bless re-uploaders. I give you Lou Zocchi the dice sperg king.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:37
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Indolent Bastard posted:God bless re-uploaders. Yes! Thank you! This is everything you never needed to know about dice.
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Mar 13, 2014 08:36
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