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Can anyone recommend any 1/35 scale models for a Bruckengerat B, with ground equipment (Trailers and such)? The ones I've found seem to be pre-built and cost 90GBP each...
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Mar 5, 2014 10:35
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| # ? May 16, 2024 13:37 |
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Looks like your request may be.. A bridge too far 
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Mar 10, 2014 17:54
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You could try scratching the pontoons and combining them with this kit? http://www.dragon-models.com/d-m-item.asp?pid=DRA6532
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Mar 10, 2014 21:58
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I thought you would like to see some latest shots of the Panther. Added the shurtzen (Still stands out a bit as needs filters etc.)  
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Mar 10, 2014 23:17
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big_g posted:I thought you would like to see some latest shots of the Panther. Added the shurtzen (Still stands out a bit as needs filters etc.) It's looking great, IMO.
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Mar 11, 2014 01:01
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While this isn't specifically scale modeling, I figured that if anyone knew glues and epoxies, it would be you guys. I'm trying to bond a transparent polyester film to a glass pane, and I need something that won't cloud like superglue or otherwise react with the film. I have a blacklight if there is a good UV curing epoxy that won't react. Any ideas? corgski fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 21:27
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I often use "FUTURE" as a glue for transparent elements after ruining buildings with CA fog. It's just a floor polish but it's like the best thing to gloss models ever. Smells nice too.
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Mar 13, 2014 00:20
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I am sure it's been covered many times, but I am new to the hobby and wondering if there are any companies I should avoid purchasing. I will be doing WWII stuff, 1:35. I don't have any need to buy only the best, but would rather not end up with something so poorly built that it's frustrating to assemble. I just finished my first model, a 1:48 Tamiya and to my untrained eye, it seemed like reasonable quality.
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Mar 13, 2014 00:27
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Eastern Express and Aeroplast. Not that you're likely to run into those two manufacturers, but goddamn were those two kits poo poo.
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Mar 13, 2014 01:42
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Some of the Airfix kits are still using the same molds from the 50's and some of the Italeri models are really looked down upon. Another thing you've got to remember that the typical scale modeller is an elitist who usually buys a kit, only to use 3 parts out of the box (naturally covered in putty and carved to hell to make them acceptable) and the remaining 98% of the model is aftermarket photo etched and solid brass parts, each costing more than the original kit. If there is a kit you like, look for a review, then scroll down to see the comments. If over half are saying it's garbage, then it likely is. If most are saying it's ok, then go for it.
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Mar 13, 2014 01:50
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Blistex posted:Some of the Airfix kits are still using the same molds from the 50's and some of the Italeri models are really looked down upon. Another thing you've got to remember that the typical scale modeller is an elitist who usually buys a kit, only to use 3 parts out of the box (naturally covered in putty and carved to hell to make them acceptable) and the remaining 98% of the model is aftermarket photo etched and solid brass parts, each costing more than the original kit.
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Mar 13, 2014 02:12
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TBH even with good and bad manufacturers there's good and bad kits in the range. Best bet is to find a subject you want to make and then google and ask around for the available kits of it. I find that I rarely have to leave the Airfix/Matchbox line for stuff I want.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:19
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, that elitism is what makes me so sure I don't need the best manufacturer. The attention to detail some guys have is cool to see, but not something I currently aspire to. Some of the "rubbish kits" are referred to as such because someone held them up to factory blueprints and the rudder was .01% off or the rear armour deck didn't have the characteristic pitting of the castings from the ford factory.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:28
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, that elitism is what makes me so sure I don't need the best manufacturer. The attention to detail some guys have is cool to see, but not something I currently aspire to. Tamiya produces a very good kit, but you do have to be careful as some of their kits are old molds being used again, or rebranded kits (ie someone elses kit put in a tamiya box). They will tend to be "pretty" accurate ie around 80-90% correct. The only problem is that most of their kits are overpriced compaired to the chinese kits (dragon etc) But general reviews will tend to be of the "put glue in the box and shake it. out pops a model", so they are well engineered.
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Mar 13, 2014 03:51
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thelightguy posted:While this isn't specifically scale modeling, I figured that if anyone knew glues and epoxies, it would be you guys. As Baronjutter said, Future works okay for gluing clear parts. If you want some more strength to the glue though, the best thing you can get is Watch Crystal Cement. Dries crystal clear, is super-strong, and won't craze plastic. This is the stuff I use: http://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hypo-Cement-JA-GSHYPO/dp/B000YQDX86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394684297&sr=8-1&keywords=g-s+hypo+cement
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Mar 13, 2014 05:19
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I didn't realize Future could be used for gluing clear parts - is the same true for the Klear version of the same stuff? How long does it need to be held in place, is overnight long enough?
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Mar 13, 2014 11:56
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Overnight is best. Essentially your just using "paint" to hold two things together. It'll be strong enough, but again, it's just "paint" holding it together. Klear should work too since it's just Future by another name.
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Mar 13, 2014 12:40
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, that elitism is what makes me so sure I don't need the best manufacturer. The attention to detail some guys have is cool to see, but not something I currently aspire to. Check Trumpeter's newer kits, they have improved quite a lot and tend to be more affordable than Dragon or Tamiya. Hobby Boss is also pretty well balanced moneywise. And if you want to blow a good chunk of your money, Amusing Hobby and Meng are planting a firm foot in the market with amazing kits of lesser-known vehicles. Sparq fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Mar 13, 2014 |
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Mar 13, 2014 15:57
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Trumpeter is one of those companies that hardcore nerds complain about. Apparently Trumpeter brags about using original factory blueprints, but only overall view, so the result is slightly different.
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Mar 13, 2014 16:02
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xpost from projects megathread: I have been forever toting paints/equipment around for tabletop stuff in boxes of assorted size shoved into a backpack. After damaging my second Series 7 sable brush beyond repair by doing this I decided to make something better. I had a spare hardboard "aluminium" case that I wasn't really using any more, access to a very cheap laser cutter thanks to London Hackspace and enough time to rough out a design because my jobless rear end is still jobless. This is what I came up with.       All the compartments are angled 10* towards the front so things stay put when its held upright, it can hold 54 25mm dropper bottles (Army Painter/Vallejo) and 24 38mm bottles (pretty much anything else), I still need to work out a way to keep the top board from swinging forward all the time, I'll probably use magnets or something. Total cost: £5 for the 3mm laser mdf and £8 for 1 1/2 hours cutting time. if anyone has one of these boxes and wants the sketchup files for the compartments I'll happily share.
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Mar 13, 2014 16:12
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Wibbleman posted:Tamiya produces a very good kit, but you do have to be careful as some of their kits are old molds being used again, or rebranded kits (ie someone elses kit put in a tamiya box). They will tend to be "pretty" accurate ie around 80-90% correct. The only problem is that most of their kits are overpriced compaired to the chinese kits (dragon etc) I'm in Japan so the Tamiya kits are a lot cheaper compared to the Dragon kits here. Model accuracy aside though, dragon instructions are only 80-90% accurate. They're also next to no help at all for painting instructions compared to the Tamiya play-by-play.
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Mar 13, 2014 17:08
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RillAkBea posted:I'm in Japan so the Tamiya kits are a lot cheaper compared to the Dragon kits here. Model accuracy aside though, dragon instructions are only 80-90% accurate. Honestly to me that's half the fun of Dragon kits. I enjoy a challenge rather than the put glue into the box and shake kits as someone above described Tamiya. Tamiya however has figured out how to not make track links an absolute pain in the rear end so they've got that going for them.
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Mar 13, 2014 17:29
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Tristar tracks remain the best tracks I have ever worked with.
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Mar 13, 2014 17:44
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Ensign Expendable posted:Trumpeter is one of those companies that hardcore nerds complain about. Apparently Trumpeter brags about using original factory blueprints, but only overall view, so the result is slightly different. Problem is that most people who do these comparisons don't understand the differences between a line drawing and a photograph, and how one is a true depiction of the actual dimensions and how the other is a distorted representation. One guy did an effort post in (missing lynx I think) and showed how a camera takes a photo from one point and give a trueish representation straight ahead, but the further you move from the centre of the photo, the more the distortion increase. He basically drew a diagram of how you would need to take something like 15 photos of the side of a typical tank and overlay them in photoshop to approach the correct proportions shown in a line drawing. This not only works side to side, but vertically when dealing with tanks since they are quite tall. In a lot of these cases if you do the maths and compare the model lengths, and the real-world lengths (while calculating scale) they come out to be pretty much exact. But try explaining that to a sperglord who only looks at a photo overlaid on a line drawing and cries "look how off it is" while the camera is 2' behind centre, looking at the model 3' ahead of center and offset by 15 degrees of more(also adding the possibility of the ground being uneven, one wing being higher than the other because of this, the turret being turned slightly to one side, or the photographer kneeling down while taking it).
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Mar 13, 2014 20:04
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I really like trumpeter's kits. They aren't the most accurate, but they look good, they go together relatively easy (easier than ICM, not as easy as Tamiya), and they make things that nobody else will (namely, chinese variants of soviet jets) Dragon has the very best sprue material for stretching, but they are a pain to build. ICM, oh boy.
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Mar 13, 2014 22:31
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Ensign Expendable posted:Tristar tracks remain the best tracks I have ever worked with. Even better than Fruilmodel?
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Mar 14, 2014 00:27
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Even better than Fruilmodel? Those are the $40 metal ones right?
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Mar 14, 2014 00:56
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Wild EEPROM posted:I really like trumpeter's kits. They aren't the most accurate, but they look good, they go together relatively easy (easier than ICM, not as easy as Tamiya), and they make things that nobody else will (namely, chinese variants of soviet jets) Yeah, ICM is definitely...advanced.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:11
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Those are the $40 metal ones right? Yeah. I really like them myself. They can be a bit fiddly at first, but once you get a technique down they assemble pretty quick. I made myself a little assembly jig which was just a sturdy piece of plastic sheet, with three wood strips glued to the surface. Then the track teeth of each link slide down between the strips, and I can put down about 30 links at a time. Once they're on, I put an elastic band around the length of the jig over the teeth. Everything is held down nice and tight then, but it still allows me to slide the links around and align the holes. It's a cinch then to slip the pins in en masse, and then glue them in in one fell swoop.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:48
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Ensign Expendable posted:Yeah, ICM is definitely...advanced. The worst part about ICM isn't the fit (which is usually ok) or the detail (which is usually ok), it's that loving mold release they slather on by the gallon, and the sinkholes (which are plentiful). But they still made the very best Spitfire IX.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:56
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The only ICM kit I had covered in fluid was their Soviet horse cart one, and only then the gray sprues (the green 45 mm AT gun sprue was fine). Sinkholes, too. The other kits only had brittle plastic, that's about it. I despise their love of the Flamingo. I don't want a Flamingo, stop bundling it with things. There were like 100 of those things built, make a model of a tank that mattered.
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Mar 14, 2014 05:22
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How can you NOT love an obscure and silly German light tank?
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Mar 14, 2014 07:19
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ICM has some pretty alright boxart too:     Not nearly as good as Roden though  (the whole post was just so I could post that roden boxart)
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Mar 14, 2014 11:13
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Here's some latest pics of the Panther, very close to being done now I reckon.  
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Mar 14, 2014 22:51
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I really like all the junk scattered on the rear deck. I think some good junk scattering really puts life into the model.
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Mar 15, 2014 01:02
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Ensign Expendable posted:I really like all the junk scattered on the rear deck. I think some good junk scattering really puts life into the model. my favourite are dioramas where the tank is rolling through mud, and you can see all the crew's muddy footprints on the deck going to their respective hatches.
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Mar 15, 2014 06:14
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That sounds really cool, I've never seen one of those.
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Mar 15, 2014 06:23
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Ensign Expendable posted:That sounds really cool, I've never seen one of those. Like every cool model I've ever seen, it was either posted or linked at the Missing Lynx board. My single favourite modelling trick is having a diorama where there is water that is depicted in 3D with the tank/plane partially submerged. there was one where it was either a 109 or a PZII that was half in the water and the epoxy and colouring they used was just perfectly murky and coloured. The coolest part was the one corner of the diorama that was just water, like it was frozen and sliced. Example, but obviously not the one I was looking for.  
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Mar 15, 2014 06:45
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Blistex posted:Like every cool model I've ever seen, it was either posted or linked at the Missing Lynx board. My single favourite modelling trick is having a diorama where there is water that is depicted in 3D with the tank/plane partially submerged. there was one where it was either a 109 or a PZII that was half in the water and the epoxy and colouring they used was just perfectly murky and coloured. The coolest part was the one corner of the diorama that was just water, like it was frozen and sliced. Wow! Is this a trick box, or is it actually set in something? (Lucite would be cool, but I know lucite gets really hot while setting.)
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Mar 15, 2014 13:13
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| # ? May 16, 2024 13:37 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:Wow! Is this a trick box, or is it actually set in something? (Lucite would be cool, but I know lucite gets really hot while setting.) All I could find is "set in resin with pain to add colour".
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Mar 15, 2014 15:07
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