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My employer is completely ok with that. In fact we all do it, we probably get a tire delivery for someone or other every 3-4 weeks. I had the leaf springs for my XJ shipped here and they ended up at my desk even though they didn't even have a name on them. Can't wait to have six military truck combat wheels shipped here on a skid... and maybe a 500lb transfer case or something. Only 9 months till I can register that pile of crap, I need to get it put back together this summer so it's ready to drive to work on January 3rd. January 2nd I've set aside for dealing with the registry of motor vehicles because I KNOW it's gonna take an entire day to straighten out.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:10 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 02:17 |
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kastein posted:January 2nd I've set aside for dealing with the registry of motor vehicles because I KNOW it's gonna take an entire day to straighten out. Hungover DMV employees being asked to do poo poo none of them are likely to have ever done before and getting it accomplished in a single day? That is just so optimistic. Never change.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:24 |
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Remind me what has to happen before you can register the 5 ton.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:25 |
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Safety Dance posted:Remind me what has to happen before you can register the 5 ton. It need to be old enough. They (the military) screwed him by retitling it to current year after something like an engine rebuild so it's titled like a dozen or more years newer than it actually is. I would have pulled off a constructed title on it if I were him, but that may not be possible there like it is in PA.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:27 |
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I thought of you today, Ken. I couldn't find a large enough gauge wire for my current project, so I stripped an old cat5e braided cable. I only needed 8 pairs so there are only two colors redundant. Don't look at me that way. Its GM endorsed:
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:27 |
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I wanted to, but I have a PA title and reside in MA and neither bureaucracy thinks it is their problem. It only took a few loops through "nononono you need to talk to the mass RMV" "nonononono you need to talk to the PA DMV" "nononono you need to talk to the mass RMV" before I realized I was caught in a horrible bureaucratic wet dream and ran screaming. MA thinks PA should correct the title year, PA thinks MA should do it. I would simply register it in MA, but they're fuckheads about anything with more than 2 axles or more than 2 rear wheels (AKA I'm double hosed, with 8 tires on the ground just at the back of the truck) and also don't allow one to downrate a vehicle GVWR wise when registering, so I'd end up with commercial insurance ($texas), commercial registration (at my GVWR, upwards of $900 a year), and a CDL-B required just to drive a goddamn antique a few thousand miles a year. Since it has been broken or hosed in some way for the entire time I've owned it, I basically have given up and am just waiting out the remaining 9 months and then flipping the MA RMV a giant FUCKYOU and registering it antique. At which point I need antique insurance... so I may still be hosed, as I may have to garage it. Yeah like THAT is going to happen. We'll see. It was originally built in 1958, so it would have been an antique in, oh, 1983, 7 years before the title says it was made.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:41 |
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kastein posted:I wanted to, but I have a PA title and reside in MA and neither bureaucracy thinks it is their problem. It only took a few loops through "nononono you need to talk to the mass RMV" "nonononono you need to talk to the PA DMV" "nononono you need to talk to the mass RMV" before I realized I was caught in a horrible bureaucratic wet dream and ran screaming. All the use of MA and PA in this post just makes me picture two old people yelling at each other.
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# ? Mar 7, 2014 23:51 |
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kastein posted:I wanted to, but I have a PA title I didn't realize it was a PA title. Oh well....9 months is easier at this point. Otherwise you could have "sold" it to me to "reconstruct" in PA and get titled so I could "sell" it back to you. By the time that happens the VIN should show up as an appropriate year, or you at least have an opportunity to fight to correct it. Been there done that.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 00:26 |
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About having to walk several miles to the parts store if you forget something...do the parts stores up there not run parts delivery? I know it's usually a service for mechanic shops, but if you've done as much business as I'm sure you have, I'm sure they would send it out if you asked?
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:03 |
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Darchangel posted:Ship to your place of employment, if you can. I know they sometimes don't like to do that with a credit card. Ha, I'm legally a contractor so I'm sure that would go over well. Not to mention having to take it up eleven stories, sit on it all day in a cramped cubicle, then take it back down and carry it four city blocks because I can't park near my downtown office building.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:06 |
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angryrobots posted:About having to walk several miles to the parts store if you forget something...do the parts stores up there not run parts delivery? I know it's usually a service for mechanic shops, but if you've done as much business as I'm sure you have, I'm sure they would send it out if you asked?
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:07 |
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That, plus I don't actually buy that much from them, and I live on a dead end dirt road in the woods with no space to turn around that isn't plowed by the city. I legitimately can't get out of my driveway without 4x4/AWD most of the winter.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:14 |
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Yeah if it's 8 pm he's proper fubar, if you jog maybe you can make it before they close up.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:17 |
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I'd suggest drones, but Ken will probably actually build one if I do. Then someone will get killed by a falling AX15.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 05:24 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'd suggest drones, but Ken will probably actually build one if I do. Clearly you haven't been to an neai meetup if you think a drone is necessary for this to be a risk.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 06:56 |
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angryrobots posted:About having to walk several miles to the parts store if you forget something... A few years ago, I took the bus to AutoZone to get a half shaft. Then realized the buses only ran every 55 minutes... so it was wait 45 minutes, or start walking. Walked about 3 miles with half an axle on my shoulder. That.. was not fun. Neither was discovering they gave me the wrong axle once I got back (they gave me the A/T version instead of M/T). Best part was discovering that while it did absolutely need the axle, it was actually the wheel bearing making that weird popping/clicking noise. The outer race had somehow split/cracked e: wheel bearing had about 5k on it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Mar 8, 2014 |
# ? Mar 8, 2014 09:16 |
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See I thought being AI meant having about 5 cars in various states of reliability and dot legality. You guys are nuts doing major work to your only ride.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 15:12 |
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Well I have the comanche but if I drive it out of town I WILL get another inspection ticket, and might even in town. And it has two flat tires right now and is buried in snow. So I walked. If I work on stuff at work I am pretty screwed too since that means by definition I only have one vehicle with me, since I can't drive two at once to get them both there. I could bug a coworker to give me a ride, but I am self sufficient nearly to a fault so I typically just figure something out myself (like walking) instead unless it is a true emergency.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 15:34 |
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kastein posted:If I work on stuff at work I am pretty screwed too since that means by definition I only have one vehicle with me, since I can't drive two at once to get them both there. I could bug a coworker to give me a ride, but I am self sufficient nearly to a fault so I typically just figure something out myself (like walking) instead unless it is a true emergency. Just leave an extra car at work, duh.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 15:38 |
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Let me get right on that. *drives 70 miles to work then walks home* Anyone see anything missing on that swap parts list? Informed and uninformed ideas welcome, I really don't want to miss anything.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 16:03 |
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kastein posted:Anyone see anything missing on that swap parts list? Informed and uninformed ideas welcome, I really don't want to miss anything. Drop a Hemi innit.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 17:11 |
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Harbor Freight tow bar and magnetic lights. Don't need registration on vehicle being flat towed, can drive it to the parts store in a pinch. I met a guy that took his toolbag on the bus to Pick n Pull and then brought the transaxle home on the bus.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 20:19 |
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Psycho Donut Killer posted:Harbor Freight tow bar and magnetic lights. Don't need registration on vehicle being flat towed I don't know about MA, but here, if even one wheel is on the ground, the vehicle needs to have current tags.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 21:48 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'd suggest drones, but Ken will probably actually build one if I do. I was wondering how many volvo electric fans connected to a car battery would be needed to make a quadrotor-esque remote vehicle.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 22:13 |
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Ken, If you get truly stranded you can contact me. My Jetta and Porsche are both driveable and I'm not crazy far away.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 22:14 |
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When you get the 5tonner registered just pop a spare jeep in the back and leave it at work, duh.
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# ? Mar 8, 2014 22:25 |
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OSP, thanks for the offer, hopefully it won't come to the point where I need help at all. Got the front driveshaft today - it is technically 0.35" too long at 29.6" instead of 29.25" but it should be fine, worstcase I will cut it down. I just need to check to make sure it doesn't bottom out at front suspension full compression or full droop, easy enough. Rear driveshaft still not found, ideally a ujoint style one from a 93-95.0 zj with a v8 and np231 (AKA rare as gently caress) but worst case I will extend a regular auto 4.0 XJ front shaft. Cakefool, that might in fact be part of my plan, but that is 9 months away
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# ? Mar 9, 2014 00:03 |
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In stock at home: 29 spline chrysler 8.25 w/ 3.55 gears (in stock at friend's house, frozen to the ground under a pile of scrap metal) Already at work: flywheel bolts pressure plate bolts (need to double check thread size and length and clearance drill 3 holes on pressure plate) pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch disc, flywheel transmission to trans mount bushing adapter plate front driveshaft from a late v8 ZJ 29.6" long Durango LSD (at work, needs a ride in the parts washer) RuffStuff leaf spring perches for a 2.5" leaf spring and 3" axle tube set of CV joint bolts for new rear driveshaft new engine and transmission mount bushings 4x 7/16-14 1.5" flange head grade 8 bolts for mounting adapter plate to transmission tailhousing SYE kit, new AX15 input bearing, NP231 front output seal transmission (from a 3.9L V6 Dakota, may need input bearing) clutch hydraulics set 1998 M/T 4.0 ECU throwout bearing bellhousing cover trans tunnel cover plate, shift lever assy, inner and outer shift lever boots dakota shift lever assembly RTV 8.25 U-bolts replacement manifold bolt/stud, spare slave cylinder mounting stud Materials to fix stupid evap line while engine is out of the way front driveshaft from a 93-95.0 V8 ZJ w/ NP231 or NV249 and ujoint style pinion yoke 1.75"x0.120" DOM to lengthen/shorten driveshafts appropriately if needed axle seals for 8.25 ring gear bolts for installing the LSD Materials for line lock controller install (HCU and matching flare nuts, tubing) (in jeep) brake fluid, 80W90 for the 8.25, 5W30 for the 4.0, coolant (in jeep) pedal box (already installed) new front brake hoses 2 long housing bolts 83503548 (M10x1.25x130 JIS head ISO PC 10.9) for the AX15 clutch fork, clutch fork retainer spring e-brake cables new connecting rod bearings front calipers (came preloaded!) new front right brake line 52127988AC 2x dana/spicer 2-70-18x ujoint strap kits, 2x Spicer 5-153x U-joints bellhousing from a 4.0 XJ 6"x1/2" HR plate to make new U-bolt plates with 5-speed XJ transfer case shift linkages antiseize, loctite 5-speed XJ transmission crossmember 5 short housing bolts 4746274 (M10x1.25x70 JIS head ISO PC 10.9) for the AX15 all new seals for the 4.0 (front main, rear main, valve cover, distributor, oil filter adapter, timing cover, oil pan) carrier bearings for the Durango LSD intake/exhaust manifold gasket set wheel bearings for the 8.25 parts to do a few "custom modifications" to the NP231 that I have in mind... this will include one valve seal, some rod stock, drills, taps, and a small custom machined aluminum adapter. (materials from mcmaster to set up cable shifters on order) engine stand, load leveler, bolts to put engine on engine stand Stuff to buy locally: spare NSS plug (nope), SXL grade wire (came with transmission), butt splices (in jeep), crimper to make NSS bypass and reverse light switch harness (in jeep) mobil1 10w30 for the AX15, ATF for the NP231, filter for the 4.0 (buy after work) assembly lube (buy after work) brake line unions and flare nuts (buy after work) alloy safe RTV (thanks to CSB for reminding me) gas for parts washer Still needed: fuel filter 4798301, HVAC gaskets 4874069AB, 53004810 shift linkage bushing, 4x 3735333 shift linkage bushings (on their way from jeep4x4center, none critical) Tools required: welding/fab equipment (angle grinder w/ cutoff, angle grinder w/ wire wheel, angle grinder w/ grinding wheel, welder, gloves, mask, chopsaw) chrysler 8.25 side adjuster tool (at work) dial indicator (at work already) C-clamps, scrap of 1/4 plate (in jeep) torque wrench (in back of jeep) lockring pliers (in back of jeep) angle finder (in jeep) full tap/die collection, just in case (in jeep) 5 gallon pail ("parts washer") case of brakleen (buy after work) bearing pullers and adapter plates to fit 8.25 carrier bearings (in jeep) grease gun! (at work) brake line flaring tool (in jeep) plastigauge (in jeep, buy more green if available) drip pan so the shop manager doesn't murder me Monday ... and my normal full toolset. Added a few things... this is mostly for my own reference. Unless something is missing then feel free to tell me I am dumb and need to bring <x> kastein fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Mar 14, 2014 |
# ? Mar 9, 2014 16:43 |
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kastein posted:List of stuff to build an entire truck. I love that you are asking us if you have everything right. Good luck, man.
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# ? Mar 9, 2014 21:52 |
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Not so much asking if I have everything right as hoping someone else happens to notice the one critical thing I'm missing I'm sure I am forgetting something, and more eyes mean less chance of it being forgotten until it is too late. I'm imagining this going roughly like the Roadkill crusher camaro engine swap, remember how they were like "we have to remember everything because we are hosed otherwise, like, it'd suck if we forgot torque converter bolts"? I can only imagine that that offhand comment came from some previous engine swap one of them did where they got completely hosed over because, well, they forgot they needed torque converter bolts. The worst part is that a lot of the parts for this swap are junkyard-only and/or special order online, most parts houses aren't going to have them, certainly not in stock at the store. So if I forget something and it turns out to be important, I could quite literally not have a way to get home from work... and more importantly, not have a way to make the thing move under its own power to get it back out of the bay before Monday morning. If I had forgotten, say, the transmission to trans bushing mount adapter plate, there might be 10 donors in this state right now, all of them at least 50 miles away in various junkyards, and I likely wouldn't have realized until after the yards close Saturday. Oh hey. Just realized it might help if I brought oil and a filter for the engine, since I'm regasketing and possibly re-rod-bearing-ing it while it's out. That would have sucked. e: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpQlD-FLZMU&t=164s kastein fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Mar 9, 2014 |
# ? Mar 9, 2014 22:04 |
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The shipping and receiving person has stopped asking me if packages arriving should be logged in our purchase order system and has started just leaving them by the door or dumping them on my desk. Works for me 4 packages today, 6 more in the next two days, and maybe one on Saturday as well. Only a few more things to get and bring to work and I can start.
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# ? Mar 12, 2014 20:54 |
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EightBit posted:Ha, I'm legally a contractor so I'm sure that would go over well. Not to mention having to take it up eleven stories, sit on it all day in a cramped cubicle, then take it back down and carry it four city blocks because I can't park near my downtown office building. Ah. I'm lucky, my wife is the administrative assistant for a small paint and drywall company, so I just send stuff to her at her work. She's the one who has to sign for stuff anyway. kastein posted:Let me get right on that. *drives 70 miles to work then walks home* You need a moped or small motorcycle to throw in the back of the Cherokee, or on a receiver mount rack. Or even a mountain bike (for parts runs, not to get home.)
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# ? Mar 12, 2014 22:56 |
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If I can't haul a 4.0 with it, it doesn't do me much good Looks like I'm ready to do everything except the LSD and new rear diff housing this weekend. The diff is buried in scrap metal a lot worse than I thought at a friend's house and also frozen to the ground, so it can wait. Everything else is a go. Work starts around 6:30 tonight after I pick up the remaining consumables (RTV, some fluids, flare nuts and brake line poo poo, blah blah blah, silly crap like that) as soon as work lets out.
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 13:19 |
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Go find a webcam in the office and livestream this poo poo.
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 13:45 |
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Slow is Fast posted:Go find a webcam in the office and livestream this poo poo. The camera would be on for five minutes before a wave of pure rage blew it up. Also Kastein might single-handedly cause the FCC to begin regulating private streaming.
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 17:37 |
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Giant pile of parts. That large box? Completely packed. Son of a loving bitch! So I grab the transmission and toss it on the bench. Figure I should be nice and not make an Exxon Valdez level mess in the shop, so I put a drain pan on the bench and stand the transmission up in it, come back a few minutes later with my tools. The oil that came out of it looks... suspiciously like this: Cue an uneasy sinking feeling. I gotta break the thing down and pull the bellhousing, input bearing retainer, front and rear case halves, and part of the shifter assembly to reseal the RTV bonds anyways (morons who took the tcase out of the donor vehicle at the junkyard pulled 7/10 of the bolts that hold the case halves together because they didn't realize it wouldn't help them at all, so the RTV split and it was leaking gear oil everywhere) so I continue. Get the thing completely uncased and start checking bearings and synchros. '97 3.9L V6 Dakota mantrans bellhousing on the top. '95 4.0L I6 Wrangler mantrans bellhousing on the bottom. Note the similarities between the bolt patterns on the transmission end of the housing... The input bearing feels decent-ish. No significant grinding, spins nicely, not all that much play, etc. Probably has another 100k in it easily. Since it's pressed onto the input shaft I'm debating not replacing it after all. On the other hand, 3/5 of the synchros are loving roached and the other two aren't far behind. Someone put high-sulfur EP lube based GL-5 in this shitbox and then shifted it like a retard, probably for a long time. Thus why the oil looks like I struck gold - brass synchro stop rings. I've been through one of these cases before, I can rebuild it in an evening without much sweat. So now I have somewhat of a dilemma. Can't decide if I am going to just close it up, reseal the case, forget I ever saw this and double clutch everything (I'm kinda used to that) or tear it down the rest of the way, clean all the parts, bag em up, figure out exactly which bearings are getting marginal, order all the synchro stop rings ($40 for the set, no question about those) and bearings + seals I need, then postpone this whole project till next time I get a chance. God dammit, I wanted to have this thing driving by tomorrow. On the other hand, if I postpone, I have probably another dozen+ things I would ideally replace (not required, but would be nice, etc) that I can order and have in time. If I do it tonight, they're getting left as-is. gently caress this thing: poo poo I should order if I'm going to postpone: AX15 input seal AX15 output seal AX15 shift tower gasket AX15 shift tower lever bushing AX15 reverse switch (if it's expensive, this is a junkyard thing. Some idiot hit it with a sawzall for an unknown reason, but was not successful in cutting it in half, just digging a trench in the rear end end.) AX15 synchro set (qty 5, $40) At least a few bearings in the AX15 probably could use replacing. I need to check the pocket bearing between the input shaft and mainshaft when I tear it down further, along with the two main bearings in the midplate. The rest are mostly optional since they only see rotation when not under load. If I postpone I can also spend some time cleaning all these parts nicely and really do a bang-up job of putting it back together cleanly instead of just slapping poo poo in it and closing it back up, too. Decisions. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Mar 15, 2014 |
# ? Mar 15, 2014 01:46 |
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On the plus side, I forgot how much a 5 gallon pail of gasoline kicks rear end as a parts washer. poo poo is just melting right off of the transmission front case half right now. That gas was 100% clear 5 minutes before I took this picture. Another positive note, the NP231J mode fork shift rail that I was afraid was case hardened turns out not to be. Drilled this hole in the end of the rusty (scrap, testing purposes only) one like it was butter using only an HSS bit and a homeowner special drill press. So now I basically just have to choose the threading I intend to use (must be smaller major diameter than 3/8", and not weak as hell), drill a properly sized pilot hole for it, and tap it. Then I need to either get my lathe operational and learn how to use it in a hurry or call in a favor and get threads turned on the end of a piece of 3/8" 316L and some special stuff done to a piece of 7/8" AF hex 6061-T6... .250" of 5/8-18 threads and a .08" wide 0.545" diameter O-ring seat cut on the outside of one end, hex left alone in the middle for an inch or two, then half an inch or so of 5/8" OD round, then bore a .380" hole down the center end to end.
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 04:13 |
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Is that your desk at work that you're dismantling shift forks on?
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 05:25 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is that your desk at work that you're dismantling shift forks on? It's certainly not his house. Look how clean it is.
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 12:59 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 02:17 |
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daslog posted:It's certainly not his house. Look how clean it is. The lack of carpenter ants is a dead giveaway.
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 13:39 |