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Wouldn't help me at all, really. Pity it's six months until I'm in the US and I can't wait that long, I'd just pick one up - I could get something cheaper by having it sent from the US, yes, but I wasn't sure whether they could handle our higher voltage, or if the UK market stuff has different internals and so on.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:30
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Pretty sure I remember reading that Hakko irons cannot be made to work on a different voltage/frequency without replacing parts. I remember Aussies on the EEVblog complaining about that because they are getting gouged to gently caress like the UK is.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:50
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Yep. Aus distributors seem to charge $200-300 for the FX-888D compared to $80-$120 it seems to go for on US sites. I've been keeping an eye out for a reasonably priced soldering station that runs on 240v for a while now but I'm still using my old 35w stick. Edit: On that topic, and this might not be the right place to ask, but when tapping an existing wire is it preferred to just cut the wire and solder it back together with the third wire leading off or should I somehow cut off some insulation without breaking the original wiring to solder on my tap? I'm adding a relay to control an aux power output that has it's own dedicated wiring to the battery and I want to energise the coil from an existing switched power line. I'm just gonna break and reconnect a wire since I can't see how I would be able to seal the joint without being able to get some heatshrink over it and it's going to be exposed to the elements. ephphatha fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 01:53
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I don't have a ton of experience, but if I was taking a swing at it I'd cut the wire, then grab a marine butt connector and crimp one wire in one end and the other two in the other end. Marine butt connectors not only shrink just like heat shrink tubing, but there's solder inside; when the solder peeks out of both ends of the connector then the turkey has finished cooking and you should turn off the heat.
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Mar 12, 2014 05:51
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There's a connector made to do that which I've always heard called a 'P' connector (it looks like a P and the circular part of the P hinges open and clamps down on the existing wire) but I'm not finding it under that name. I'm not sure if there is a weather tight version of it though. e: http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-splices/=r21b8l Select 'Narrow By: Wire Taps' There's also a multi-wire heat shrink butt splice on there if you don't select Narrow By. Galler fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 06:02
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Yeah, friend of mine has a Mercedes with iffy wiring (fancy that) and apparently the only way Mercedes will officially repair wiring is with those marine connectors that have solder inside.
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Mar 12, 2014 06:04
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So something like these heat shrink connectors would be best? That mcmaster site wanted me to make an account to even look at the listings.
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Mar 12, 2014 10:02
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My favorite butt splices are these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-splices/=r27jx1 aka http://www.posi-lock.com/ The twist-on ones. I can successfully crimp maybe 7 out of 10 times, but the twist on butt splices are so easy it's not even funny. The weatherproof ones are spendy, but I use them on the motorcycle.
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Mar 12, 2014 14:12
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Ephphatha posted:Edit: On that topic, and this might not be the right place to ask, but when tapping an existing wire is it preferred to just cut the wire and solder it back together with the third wire leading off or should I somehow cut off some insulation without breaking the original wiring to solder on my tap? I'm adding a relay to control an aux power output that has it's own dedicated wiring to the battery and I want to energise the coil from an existing switched power line. I'm just gonna break and reconnect a wire since I can't see how I would be able to seal the joint without being able to get some heatshrink over it and it's going to be exposed to the elements. If you want to do it without a connector the best way is to strip some insulation - about an inch or so. If you have proper wire strippers (the kind with different gauges) just choose the appropriate gauge and "clamp" them on to cut the insulation at either side, then use a razor knife to slice the insulation between the cuts. Once you have that exposed, separate the strands fo wire into two bundles - half and half. I typically use a small pick for this. Then take the wire you want to tap in with about 2" stripped off. Put it through the "hole" in the bundles and squeeze it closed up to just about the end of the insulation. Then wrap the remainder around the original wire where the insulation is stripped, a few turn on one side, a few on the other. Then tape it up properly (which is a whole different topic). This makes a good, solid mechanical connection. If it's in a spot where it's not going to get moved too much you can also solder over this. But don't do that unless the splice/solder is somewhere you can physically tie up on either side so it doen't move (solder work hardens and will eventually break, which is why you don't want to use it in places where it going to see a lot of movement).
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Mar 12, 2014 16:17
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Safety Dance posted:I really need to get a sponge to use with my soldering iron, rather than just letting oxidization build up on it forever. Skip the wet sponge, get one of these: http://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=900-242&gclid=CPT-kremjb0CFchZ7AodRGIA9g Just a quick stab at the "Brillo pad" and the tip is shiny again. So much better.
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Mar 12, 2014 16:30
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I have a wet sponge and one of those, though I almost always use the sponge since its on the pencil holder.
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Mar 14, 2014 00:55
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I still have a $50 gift card to Sears/Craftsman left over from x-mas. Is there anything they make that's super handy to have around that's better than the same tool from Harbor Freight?
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Mar 14, 2014 03:28
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Snap ring pliers ... They have a nice switchable set. It's about $20.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:32
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Individual sockets in weird sizes that don't typically come in the "standard" sets? 32 / 36mm axle nut sockets, that type of thing? That was the motivation behind the last couple times I've had to go to Sears at least. e: or this if you deal with those infuriating spring type hose clamps often.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:37
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Black88GTA posted:e: or this if you deal with those infuriating spring type hose clamps often. holy loving poo poo 
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Mar 14, 2014 03:42
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Black88GTA posted:Individual sockets in weird sizes that don't typically come in the "standard" sets? 32 / 36mm axle nut sockets, that type of thing? That was the motivation behind the last couple times I've had to go to Sears at least. This was the first thing I did... Black88GTA posted:e: or this if you deal with those infuriating spring type hose clamps often. Holy loving poo poo why didn't I know about this when I was doing the cooling system on my brother's old Ranger. No use to me now as I replaced all of those lovely things with proper hose clamps.
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Mar 14, 2014 03:47
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Do you have a shop vac?
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Mar 14, 2014 03:58
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Uthor posted:Do you have a shop vac? I don't, but I've never seen a real use for them to be honest. I think my last one got sold before a move.
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Mar 14, 2014 04:11
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Viper_3000 posted:This was the first thing I did... I'm done working on my cooling system, but man, they're worth it just for the possible future use.
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Mar 14, 2014 04:53
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I might have to replace a radiator soon and that hose clamp tool looks super useful, thanks!
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Mar 14, 2014 05:19
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Soldering iron - I ordered the Weller WHS40 in the end, will see how I get on with it.
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Mar 14, 2014 10:51
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 God drat tool shop sales!
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Mar 15, 2014 03:10
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Nice, how much? I've been wanting a 7.25" slider as my ridgid 12" is a bear to move even with the stand. In other news, apparently harbor freight has started enforcing the requirement of have a receipt for warranty exchange of their hand tools. My 1/2" swivel ratchet crapped out on me and the manager at my local store wouldn't exchange it without some arguing.
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Mar 15, 2014 04:40
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Last time they gave me bullshit about that, I solved it by buying another, going to do some other shopping I needed to do at another store and then coming back and "returning it" in an hour because it broke. By that I mean returning the one they gave me poo poo about, with the new receipt. Tool companies: You gently caress around and try to weasel out of your warranty and I have absolutely no compunction about forcing you to uphold it through whatever weaselly means necessary.
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Mar 15, 2014 07:46
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Speaking of which there wasn't any warranty paperwork to send off for my ryobi so I phoned them up to ask, in the UK they don't require you to register kit, they honour off the receipt. lovely thermal receipt photocopied & tucked away in the case for later.
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Mar 15, 2014 08:39
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dyne posted:Nice, how much? I've been wanting a 7.25" slider as my ridgid 12" is a bear to move even with the stand. $400 Australian. Should be more than big enough to build my deck and cut up the flooring for 90m2 of floating floor
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Mar 15, 2014 09:18
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I'm in the market for a new corded drill (just for basic home reno projects). I'm considering the Milwaukee 0299-20 Magnum. Anyone have experience with this drill? Is there a better one that I should be looking at? The sturdier, the better.
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Mar 16, 2014 07:05
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I have that drill. I have used it for anything from putting in drywall screws all the way up to full throttle assaults on 5 gallon pails worth of mortar mix with a mud-mixing paddle (way thicker and heavier than was intended) and running a 3/4" ship augur through 120 year old oak beams. I've run 1/2" diameter drill bits through 1/4" steel plate with it... and when the bit jammed, it shattered the bit into 3 pieces in the blink of an eye and nearly broke my wrists instead of stalling. It kicks rear end, I can't break it (I've owned it since 2010), and you should buy one. Careful with it, it will happily wreck your wrists if the bit jams and you aren't ready/don't respect it.
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Mar 16, 2014 08:09
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I've got the older version of that drill (0234-6 5.5 amp) and it's boss as hell. Some reviews and comments I read while looking for a corded drill said that the 8 amp version you linked used more plastic and that the trigger felt lovely compared to the 5.5 amp one. I have no idea if that's the case or not as I've not run across the 8 amp version. I do like the detachable cord design of the 5.5 amp version though. Regardless the drill is plenty powerful but still very controllable. e:
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Mar 16, 2014 08:10
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Just upgraded to a larger toolbox for work, second hand but in really good condition.
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Mar 16, 2014 19:05
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kastein posted:I have that drill.
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Mar 17, 2014 00:14
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warcake posted:Just upgraded to a larger toolbox for work, second hand but in really good condition. Why do i get the feeling this cost more than my car.
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Mar 17, 2014 00:45
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recommendations on a good brake line flaring tool set?
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Mar 17, 2014 03:01
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Mixing batter for dinner last night and I couldn't be arsed to faff about with the mixer. Ryobi to the rescue, stuck the beater in the cordless drill, my 4yr old son thought this was awesome & wanted a go.
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Mar 17, 2014 11:10
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What is everyone's favorite bench grinder?
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Mar 17, 2014 17:43
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Power drill with wire wheel chucked in it, clamped in a vise.
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Mar 17, 2014 17:57
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CountOfNowhere posted:What is everyone's favorite bench grinder? Baldor 8". They're expensive as hell new, but they last forever so no problem buying used.
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Mar 17, 2014 18:22
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CountOfNowhere posted:What is everyone's favorite bench grinder? Cheap option: Ryobi Better: Dewalt Good: Jet Best: Metabo 10x better then all of these put together: Oldschool Baldor. *I have a Ryobi, Jet, Metabo, and a oldschool Baldor in the shop.
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Mar 17, 2014 19:48
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No complaints on my DeWalt 756 6" grinder. I don't use it a ton but it has a very smooth/quiet motor and enough power for me. Paid $69 for it on amazon 8 yrs ago.
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Mar 17, 2014 20:44
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Powershift posted:Why do i get the feeling this cost more than my car. It is worth more than my car, but that should be the last tool box I buy. Now I've moved everything to that box it looks like I have no tools. Can't beat a snap on tool box.
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Mar 17, 2014 20:50
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