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Ziploc posted:Do you want to read a ridiculously detailed document about E36 ODBC and cluster functions? No? I didn't know I wanted it until you posted it. Now I covet it. Thank you.
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Mar 17, 2014 22:44
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Ziploc posted:Do you want to read a ridiculously detailed document about E36 ODBC and cluster functions? No? Stardotstar posted:Yes, the bumpstop doesn't need anything to hold it on the shock shaft. Great!
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Mar 17, 2014 23:38
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I just picked up an 98 M3 sedan 5 speed from a friend for $700  The catch? It's blowing crazy amounts of steam from the exhaust and a few years ago he hit a semi tire on the freeway and bent up a bunch of stuff, including maybe the frame. He replaced a bunch of suspension parts and had some shop try to fix it, but it's never been right since. He got sick of it when the headgasket/whatever went out a few weeks ago and sold it to me a few days ago. Today I dropped it off at the frame shop to get it measured up to see if the frame is bent and/or fixable. The first thing the guy did was pull of the strut caps and we both saw some bent sheet metal. so I think and hope that's all there is wrong and they'll fix it for $700. If that's all it is and the frame is fixed, I'll pull the motor and fix it and have a sweet E36 M3 Question: Should I pull the whole motor and rebuild it, or just pull the head with the motor in the car? How likely is it that the block is warped or cracked? Also, I see VAC motorsports with redo an S52 head for $900 (http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---s50--s52-us-reconditioned-cylinder-head-p1315.aspx) are they good? Anyone have experience with them? lovely pic i took at night after towing it home 
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Mar 18, 2014 01:32
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Ghost M3, get some real pics up! Could be an awesome deal, hopefully there is no real frame damage and you'll be sitting pretty good for a cheap M3. (minus labor, but that's all love)
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Mar 18, 2014 01:38
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aventari posted:S52 head issues In other news, I finally got INPA and EDIABAS working properly after ~2 years of loving with them. Only to clear airbag lights on the e36 and e46touring to find out they're both the result of bad tensioners.  Celebratory image dump http://imgur.com/a/V5C3R#nVW0YbJ     e: gently caress it, here's another I'm really happy   SuperDucky fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 01:45
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Did he owe you a huge favour? Assuming it hasn't been gutted that is double to triple that in parts. You can pull the head in the car, but the headers are far easier to remove with the motor outside. If I were you I would pull the S52+trams+ECU, rebuild it and install it in your e30 track car. Part the rest and you'd probably come out even :P
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Mar 18, 2014 01:46
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 Got my summer wheels back on, I went with 235s in the front and 255s in the rear this time around, the 245s rubbed at full lock even with -2.3 degrees of camber (maxed out without camber plates).
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Mar 18, 2014 03:41
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doogle posted:
That is looking good. What color is that? I looked hard at imperial blue for my new car and it was simply too dark, but this looks fantastic.
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Mar 18, 2014 05:44
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Crustashio posted:Did he owe you a huge favour? Assuming it hasn't been gutted that is double to triple that in parts. He's a friend and the shop offered him $650 for it so he said I could have it for $700. If the frame is not easily fixable, that was exactly the plan--to swap the drivetrain into the E30 after rebuilding the motor.
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Mar 18, 2014 06:40
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The seat back on the driver seat for my E30 is busted up and won't sit up properly which is bad because I have a hosed up back and I kind of need the support while driving. My passenger seat, however is in comparatively good shape because it never gets used. Can I just take my passenger seat and swap it over to the driver's side without any issues or am I going to have to take apart both seats and make one good one.
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Mar 18, 2014 14:44
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Ultimate Mango posted:That is looking good. What color is that? It is le mans blue metallic, it is pretty close to interlagos blue, but a tiny bit less purple.
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Mar 18, 2014 14:55
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rscott posted:The seat back on the driver seat for my E30 is busted up and won't sit up properly which is bad because I have a hosed up back and I kind of need the support while driving. My passenger seat, however is in comparatively good shape because it never gets used. Can I just take my passenger seat and swap it over to the driver's side without any issues or am I going to have to take apart both seats and make one good one. You'd have to pull them apart and reassemble them. I'd try to find a working seat personally.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:14
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VAC build some of the best BMW engines in the country. They have been having some customer service issues though, so you may want to stay on top of them to make sure the job gets done promptly.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:23
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Admirable Gusto posted:Well I ended up buying it. Got a reasonably good deal (20% off MSRP) on a leftover 128i convertible with some niceties (tech package, leather, park sensors). It's not out and out sporty esp by today's standards, but I really like the engine and the car feels very buttoned up on the highway. And there's a lot less wind noise & buffeting than I was expecting. Is there anything about the 1-series you don't like? I'm semi-curious but I'm wondering how it'll be in the snow and on long trips - with my new job I'm driving almost a 7000 miles a year.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:25
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BraveUlysses posted:You'd have to pull them apart and reassemble them. I'd try to find a working seat personally. They're like seriously $400 for sport seats the last time I looked, I wonder how much the normal ones are because at this point the extra leg/lumbar support isn't doing jack poo poo for me
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Mar 18, 2014 16:25
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rscott posted:They're like seriously $400 for sport seats the last time I looked, I wonder how much the normal ones are because at this point the extra leg/lumbar support isn't doing jack poo poo for me They shouldn't be that much but keep an eye out for leatherette seats they usually go for less. Once you get another set you can fix the old set
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Mar 18, 2014 16:29
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Tab8715 posted:Is there anything about the 1-series you don't like? I'm semi-curious but I'm wondering how it'll be in the snow and on long trips - with my new job I'm driving almost a 7000 miles a year. Well I commute ~70 miles every day, and had been doing so in a Cayman S for the past 2.5 years. I used to go to the track quite often but don't anymore - for my purposes today this 128i is a step up in every single way except perhaps brand cachet (but who gives a crap?) The biggest issues I have are that the wind noise starts to get noticeable at 70 and the size of the back seat is marginal. Both are things that I am happy to live with in exchange for a convertible top that I put down every chance I get, especially now with the wonderful weather in the Bay Area. The car has clearly been set up to be understeery (I have the standard suspension and 16" wheels haha) but IMO that's in keeping with its character as a stable, easy-to-drive cruiser that enjoys a good spanking once a while. Don't know if that's an issue in the snow but you can always fit a bigger rear sway if needed (AFAIK the stock one is tiny)
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Mar 18, 2014 22:44
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Admirable Gusto posted:
The best bang for your buck on suspension upgrades are the M3 coupe front sway bar then M3 front control arms. Both are around $300 each not including labor (I installed the sway bar in under an hour and the control arms in about 90 minutes). The sway bar kills the body roll almost completely and the front control arms allow you to get almost -2 degrees of camber. The rear sway bar is a good upgrade once you get an LSD.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:36
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Speaking of curing understeer I'd like to get some more balance out of my handling without resorting to a full suspension kit. I'd really like to keep it stock springs, but I'd like quicker turn-in / rotation, I'd be interested in hearing suggestions.
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Mar 19, 2014 02:39
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Das Volk posted:Speaking of curing understeer I'd like to get some more balance out of my handling without resorting to a full suspension kit. I'd really like to keep it stock springs, but I'd like quicker turn-in / rotation, I'd be interested in hearing suggestions. Dinan/Turner thrust arm bushings are supposed to be miracle makers, I haven't done them, yet.
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Mar 19, 2014 23:01
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While installing a JB4+ ECU, I opened the car door which apparently wakes up the ECU, which is a no-no when the ECU wires are not connected. This tripped the car to go into "Electrical malfunction" mode with the wipers going off and the engine not even trying to turn over. Is there a way to reset the car to get out of this mode?
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Mar 20, 2014 00:19
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Hadlock posted:I've bolded the relevant bits, any insight would be helpful, not super enthusiastic about taking apart the top half of the engine bay to replace a $200 alternator if I don't have to. The battery light was still on when I left the shop, but turned off for at least 10 seconds (  ) but then has been off ever since except for once in the garage checking voltages.w=So I figure that the battery still needs some juicing to get rid of the red battery light indicator. Drive it down the 1998 E39 528i, 166,000 miles. Alternator died one cold (15F) morning in December. Replaced alternator, battery is good and holds charge. Red "danger battery" light is still on . Went around the block (1.1 miles) as a shakedown, turn on the headlights, *bing* left headlight goes out. Fifteen seconds later, *bing* right headlight goes out. Brights still work. Turn on the radio, HVAC display, HVAC button backlights go black, fan shuts off. Radio stays on. HVAC proceeds to turn off and on 2-3 times, cycling at a rate of about 10 seconds per. Decides to stay on. Get back to the house, alternator still giving 13.55v under load, 14.6 at idle. Battery is 12.8v with car off. What the hell? What does the red battery light mean? Supposedly it means bad ground but obviously it's charging the battery. And somehow my headlights blew out, that would be a voltage spike(?) - the brights weren't on and the brights worked when I got back to the house. All the fuses in the trunk and glove box look A-OK. At this point I am guessing that there is some sort of ground issue between the alternator and battery, but the volt meter tells me that is good. I've seen the light blink off for about 15 seconds twice so far. I'm open to any options. gently caress electrical gremelins. edit: About a month before the alternator went out, my heater kept blowing even after I'd pulled the key out of the ignition. Apparently I need a 64116923204 final stage unit for my blower. It's apparently a common point of failure.. That doesn't explain the headlights but I'm guessing that's at least part of the problem. Curious to hear anything Hadlock fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 02:15
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GUYS DON'T PARK YOUR CAR OUTSIDE OF YOUR GARAGE OR THIS CAN HAPPEN:    The car that hit me while trying to drift through the parking lot.
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Mar 20, 2014 02:33
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Welp, that's going to be loving expensive to fix. Sorry man 
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Mar 20, 2014 02:35
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BlackMK4 posted:Welp, that's going to be loving expensive to fix. Sorry man The worst part is they only had a v6 charger at the rental place.
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Mar 20, 2014 02:50
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doogle posted:The car that hit me while trying to drift through the parking lot. I hope you strangled whoever this was.
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Mar 20, 2014 03:42
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doogle posted:The car that hit me while trying to drift through the parking lot. If that's what he was doing I hope you filed charges.
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Mar 20, 2014 04:23
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 jesus loving christ that sucks dude
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Mar 20, 2014 06:54
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Guys guys guys, you're being way too negative. Now the MR2 guy's insurance gets to pay for a 1M conversion.
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Mar 20, 2014 07:01
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raej posted:While installing a JB4+ ECU, I opened the car door which apparently wakes up the ECU, which is a no-no when the ECU wires are not connected. This tripped the car to go into "Electrical malfunction" mode with the wipers going off and the engine not even trying to turn over. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery yet?
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Mar 20, 2014 15:19
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I have the original installed alarm on my E36. With the roundish fob with two grey buttons on it. Is it possible to program one of these keys to it? As far as I can tell it's an E36 key, and it has a little red light on it like the fobs do. I would prefer it be all in one key.  Just out of curiosity really.
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Mar 20, 2014 16:40
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Ziploc posted:I have the original installed alarm on my E36. With the roundish fob with two grey buttons on it. You'd have to gut one of the existing keys to get the EWS chip, not sure if that key would have a space for it or not. Edit: you got me curious, apparently you can get an e46 style key that is compatible with the factory remote. https://www.unitedautosecurity.com model LX8FZV-10B. I'm interested now, I do hate the e36 separate alarm fob. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 17:11
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That seems to be a three button one. I can only assume that the trunk button would do nothing for me.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:36
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GOD drat EWS ANTENNA RING Among other codes, I am pulling the DME EWS code, even though the car would start. That's weird, it's not supposed to start when that code shows up. Today I found out why! The car wouldn't start this morning. This isn't unusual, but I can jiggle the ignition and press on the top or bottom of the steering column, and it will usually start. Today that didn't help. In frustration, I ripped the covers off the column. I yanked the little bezel off the ignition. It had two wires coming out it it, and one of the wires was loose. I thought it was the beeper for when your key is in the ignition. So after much fumbling around and cursing, I eventually went online and found that that bezel is the antenna that picks up when the key is in the ignition for the EWS system. I hooked it back up, secured the wires, and I was good to go. Car started first try. I guess that one of the wires was loose, and pushing on the steering column would make contact. It also explains the EWS code showing up, yet the car still starting.
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Mar 20, 2014 19:55
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doogle posted:GUYS DON'T PARK YOUR CAR OUTSIDE OF YOUR GARAGE OR THIS CAN HAPPEN: That's a terrible thing for me to see as I just start to watch this thread. Looks like your front wheel rotated about 1/4 turn as it got pushed up onto the curb... that's probably not a good sign for your front end.In other news, I just did my first oil change and the car's first rear diff oil change on my new 79k mile E39 2003 530i. I had been looking for a 540i, preferably sport, preferably manual and ended up with this. Not what I would have spec'd, but I couldn't pass it up. I bought it from the original owner who was an engineer at the local Air Force base / military thingie. The car is exactly as you would expect an engineer to have it, except he didn't keep service records, instead he let the dealer keep those... so I'm having my dad get them from the dealer next week when he gets his E90 M3 serviced. The car is unreasonably tight for 11 years old. He said it was 75% highway driving and I believe that. I drove it 100 miles home at about 75mph and the trip computer never changed the average speed reading of 50.5mph. That tells me a)that the average speed hadn't been reset in a long time and b) he kept it at a pretty high average speed. Pics later, but it's a white 530i that looks like brand new. I'll need to change wheels, since it's got the stock 16"ers on there. I'll use those for Winter. I kinda want to use them, though, since they have brand new Michelin Pilots on them...
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Mar 20, 2014 20:17
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doogle posted:GUYS DON'T PARK YOUR CAR OUTSIDE OF YOUR GARAGE OR THIS CAN HAPPEN: Sup, car hit loving hard while parked buddy? poo poo sucks. Sounds like yours turned out repairable, too? On the plus side, it gives you a drat good reason to take her to the track. It's not like the resale value's going to be where you wanted it to be anyway...
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Mar 20, 2014 23:38
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ColdPie posted:Sup, car hit loving hard while parked buddy? Yeah they are fixing it. The insurance estimate is $8900 using used parts, I'm insisting on new parts including new wheels as I do track the car and really don't want something to go wrong at 120+. I bought the car new, looks like I'll just keep it forever now.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:32
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It's your right to take it to any shop you want. Don't be afraid to stand up to their insurance. Take it to the dealer if you think they're the best guys in town, it's not your money and if they wanted a deal don't run into people's cars.
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Mar 21, 2014 04:02
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I just wanna know what the hell you said to the guy who hit your car well drifting in a parking lot. I can't even imagine...
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Mar 21, 2014 05:11
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Popete posted:I just wanna know what the hell you said to the guy who hit your car well drifting in a parking lot. I can't even imagine... "STOP HITTING YOURSELF, STOP HITTING YOURSELF, STOP HITTING YOURSELF" This is why i fear buying nice things. I lose my poo poo when my beaters get doored. I couldn't imagine if it was something nice, and if it was serious damage.
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Mar 21, 2014 05:18
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