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 if you don't install a Klein horn on that bitch, I will be severely disappointed.
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Mar 14, 2014 16:08
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Wow. I cant believe how easy it was to switch headlights in my new edge. Took me 15 min, but that's only because the aftermarket ones that were on there needed to be spliced, and the electrical tape got all gummy and tough and hard to remove. On an unrelated note, I have to say that a lot of mustang owners are jerks. I look over whenever I see one on the road and try to give them a wave, but no ones waved back yet. No one even looks over. I know they're pretty common cars, especially for someones sweet sixteen but still. Cage fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 02:16
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Cage posted:Wow. I cant believe how easy it was to switch headlights in my new edge. Took me 15 min, but that's only because the aftermarket ones that were on there needed to be spliced, and the electrical tape got all gummy and tough and hard to remove. That's rude. Always wave back or give a thumbs-up.
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Mar 19, 2014 02:37
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Cage posted:Man, $410 shipped for four brand new bullitts is tempting. I was in the market for some decent 18" wheels to get a bigger tire under the car to compliment the coilovers and all the other suspension stuff I finished up over the winter. I happened to click on AM's March sale and they had a closeout on the chrome AMR 18X10" wheels for $99 each(usually $269 I think). I searched and searched and it seemed like they would fit all the way around, as I was set on having a square setup so I could rotate, even though they were listed as rear only. I pulled the trigger and as soon as they arrived a threw a wheel on the front and it fit with 7mm of strut clearance. The day after I bought them they were gone from AM's website. Anyways, I had a set of 275/40/18 Firestone Wide Oval Indy 500's mounted up because they had good reviews and Firestone was running a buy 3, get 1 free sale. Soooo, I ended up with some really nice wheels and great tires for about $1150 all in, which isn't bad at all. The grip, even on 50 degree days is astounding, and the wheels/tires/suspension totally changed the car. It still rides great, has plenty of clearance, and goes/stops/corners like crazy. No issues at all with the wheels turned at full lock, and I have no doubt I can lower it another inch and have 0 clearance issues. This is the first time I have ever spent good money on suspension before power mods, and I am glad I did. I do have a BAMA tune, but I got it primarily for the transmission calibration(A6), and run the 91P tune every day. It drives like stock, pulls great, and shifts firmly right at 7,000 like it should. I did upload a new tune today that was revised with the new tire size(and unlocked so I can make changes) and I can attest that in the last several months BAMA has done some good work to the shifting calibration of the A6. It's much more friendly at part throttle, with firm but not hard shifts like before, and at WOT it shifts quickly and firmly but does not shock the tires like the old 91P tune. For a heavy-rear end convertible with a heavy-rear end driver, the car is pretty amazing. Even coming from an E55 AMG that ran high 11's, the near-stock power of the Coyote is very impressive for what it is, especially after having driven Fox and SN-95 5.0 Mustangs. I'm definitely going to look into some autocross events in the area and have some fun this Summer. Edit: I was wanting to run even wider tires, but after looking long and hard at actual tread width I found that 275/40/18's(at least the Firestones) put as much tread on the ground as tires that are technically 20mm wider, and they maintain a decent height. I would have liked to find a tire an inch taller to fill the wheel well, but I'm not willing to compromise on clearance or suspension travel to do so. Meathole fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 03:24
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 Just need to install the BAP and it's tune time!
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Mar 19, 2014 21:18
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Need to ask you Mustang dudes a thing. I'm trying to sell my wife's old car, but I'm getting zero hits. It's a 2001, V6 auto (because of course), 128k and in pretty good cosmetic shape (some paint issue on the driver's door, could use a new driver's seat). One would think that I would get a few people interested in looking at it, but like I said, nothing. I do not understand the fan base for these cars at all (like, if it was a Camaro I could say "totally bitchin rad" and get some response really quick), so what magic words should I use to entice people who are interested in Mustangs to become interested in buying this particular Mustang?
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Mar 19, 2014 21:37
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How much are you asking for? It is a 13-14 year old car. edit: I am angry now. I was checking craigslist to look at used V6 prices too. Ever since I bought my mustang last May Ive been looking for Mach 1 wheels locally. Yesterday I gave up and bit the bullet on some bullitts. Guess what gets posted on craigslist the day after? The guy even lives in the same town as me. 
Cage fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 21:41
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Need to ask you Mustang dudes a thing. This is not a car you are going to sell to an enthusiast. If it were in pretty good shape, I'd say its a $3k-4k car tops, but with a ragged interior (needs a new drivers seat?) and obvious paint damage, your options are either putting in some work yourself to clean it up and take tons of pictures to show it's in good shape, or just pricing it where it needs to be to sell in your local market. An automatic V6 isn't desirable by any enthusiasts at all, unfortunately. Maybe suggest it as a first car for a teenager who wants some type of coupe? Edit: After a look at local craigslist, $3k is high for a V6 in really good shape. I see very clean ones locally asking $2500 with under 100,000 miles. Just price it to sell and it will go. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 21:46
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Twerk from Home posted:This is not a car you are going to sell to an enthusiast. If it were in pretty good shape, I'd say its a $3k-4k car tops, but with a ragged interior (needs a new drivers seat?) and obvious paint damage, your options are either putting in some work yourself to clean it up and take tons of pictures to show it's in good shape, or just pricing it where it needs to be to sell in your local market. This pretty much covers it, most of the V6 mustangs of that vintage down here are basically beaters, and you just buy them cheap and drive them until they dont drive anymore. It would also help to be able to see the actual condition of it, to judge how severe the "issues" with the paint and interior are.
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Mar 19, 2014 22:24
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Oh hey. Dont mind the pony, I had extra plastidip so why not? It matches the tips on my wipers too. 
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Mar 20, 2014 00:40
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Mr. Wiggles posted:
Basically, like others have already posted, your wife's Mustang is not a car that people "interested in Mustangs" are going to want. It's a car for people who's buying decisions in cars go like this: Buyer: I need car, show me a car Seller: Here is a car Buyer: I have this much money, is it enough? Seller: Yes I will give you this car for that money. Low price is the only way to really move it.
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Mar 20, 2014 06:13
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Last Sunday someone failed to break into my car with a brick and it's been in the shop for the past few days. Geico gave me a Hyundai Sonata loaner and I could actually feel my soul being drained during my commute. Finally get her back today and holy poo poo, I love this god drat car. Sometimes you take these things for granted.
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Mar 21, 2014 03:14
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How do you fail to break into a car with a brick? They missed the window and ran away? Ah crack what a wonderful thing.
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Mar 21, 2014 14:08
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No they hit the window as well but only scraped it. Not sure in what order. That's actually the most offensive part is that the guy wasn't even competent enough to actually break in to find nothing of value.
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Mar 21, 2014 15:40
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Getting the gold stang serviced before Autocross season; not sure how long it's gonna take me to get the RX-7 on the road mostly because I am lazy and I hate working on it when it's cold and rainy out. Ball joints, outer tie rod ends, and some bushings for the Mustang wooo hoo. Also my CAS is weeping oil all over the place so that gets replaced too. Before too long nothing will be left to service. I also discovered my stock intake was mangled by a previous owner and I have to mangle the air filter to get it in airtight. Anybody have a stock intake for a '00 GT or even a CAI they have kicking around they might be interested in selling?
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Mar 21, 2014 16:45
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Elephanthead posted:How do you fail to break into a car with a brick? They missed the window and ran away? Ah crack what a wonderful thing. Windows are tough https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO62WcwutFM
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Mar 21, 2014 23:49
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Bumming Your Scene posted:Windows are tough yup https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbOF11mQTjs
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Mar 22, 2014 08:10
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Mar 22, 2014 19:45
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Instagram evidence that my Mustang runs.
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Mar 22, 2014 20:29
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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:
Wow, who did you buy through? I found someone locally on svt forums that's trying to get 4300 for the Paxton novi 2200 without injectors or bap.
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Mar 22, 2014 21:19
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Got the kit off beefcake with 2200SL, ID1000, Roush BAP for 4615. Vortech Comp intake for 160, Vortech 360 Race BOV 279, JPC tbolts and reservoir for 250. Misc hardware costs, extra tools. Busted a/c suction line hose and radiator drain plug was less than 80 bucks.
bowling 4 buttcoins fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 01:29
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For anyone curious about a solid place to buy go fast parts, Beefcake are an awesome vendor to use. Good prices, great support. They were pretty much my go to in the last couple of years and I don't think anyone has more 5.0 coyote knowledge than these guys.
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Mar 24, 2014 16:42
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How about OEM parts? I'm looking for a coolant reservoir for an '00 GT and it made me realize I don't have a good vendor. They're not available online except eBay, it appears.
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Mar 24, 2014 16:53
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Back in my Fox body and S195 days, I used to use a Ford dealer in...Missouri? I think, that had really great prices and even better customer support. When I get home today, I'll dig through some old parts and invoices and see if I can get you their name. Their head parts guy was pretty active on a few Mustang forums and really knew his stuff. Kind of like Beefcake, they weren't always the cheapest on everything, but they knew their stuff and how to take care of a customer and any premium you paid was worth it. e: for used parts, you could try http://mpsautosalvage.com/sunshop/. Barring that, http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ has a pretty decent selection.
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Mar 24, 2014 17:02
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Last weekend's autocross with the Mustang was a lot of fun. It isn't the best-suited car for that sort of thing, but it sure was fun. My dad came out for the first time ever and he rode shotgun on a couple of my runs. He was very entertained by my eagerness to roast the tires but he didn't want to break my car so he ran it real slow. Anyhow, 64.8 seconds the first run and 60.1 by the final; nothing outside that range so I'm pretty consistent on my all-seasons and happy to improve my first run's time even though my best was the second-slowest time-only run. I think the guy in the '13 Boss 302 only beat my best by <2 seconds. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Mar 27, 2014 |
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Mar 27, 2014 18:29
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2005 V6 auto. no CEL. Car has no power and feels like it has a fake redline of 3k rpms. Thought it was the cats being clogged but dropping the y pipe has the same issue. We're thinking fuel pump is next to try. No CEL is really odd. We're hooking a computer up to it this weekend to check numbers on everything. Anyone have a common/simple solution, aka "just replace this part #12345xyz" or are we going to have to frig with it a lot to diag it.
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Mar 28, 2014 21:17
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Check your check engine light bulb maybe?
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Mar 28, 2014 21:18
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Check for codes, even if the CEL isn't on. They can be set without flagging the CEL on.
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Mar 28, 2014 21:29
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Slow is Fast posted:2005 V6 auto. no CEL. Car has no power and feels like it has a fake redline of 3k rpms. Thought it was the cats being clogged but dropping the y pipe has the same issue. We're thinking fuel pump is next to try. No CEL is really odd. We're hooking a computer up to it this weekend to check numbers on everything. My first thought was plugged cats. Is it acting like it's hitting a rev limiter? Anyway, dropping the y pipe shouldn't do anything positive as the ecm is likely still stuck in the feedback loop of 'my cats are plugged'. Might need to pull the ecm fuse/battery to properly clear it without the y pipe connected
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Mar 29, 2014 02:03
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Dad got the y pipe off and it still runs like poo poo. Didn't reset the ecu and put the y pipe back on so I can't test the above theory. Hooked up the computer and there are no ecu codes and it has plenty of fuel at the rail. So that leaves air or spark (plus generic ecu fuckery). I've got a forester clutch job showing up soon, but I fired it up and it runs fine until above 2k rpms where it starts fumbling and then it falls flat on its face close to 3k. Feels like when my Cherokee timing was hosed. Disconnected the maf for shits and giggles and it still ran like rear end. Will diag more once this forester is in and out. Really weird, doesn't help that I don't know fords well.
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Mar 29, 2014 14:25
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Slow is Fast posted:Dad got the y pipe off and it still runs like poo poo. Didn't reset the ecu and put the y pipe back on so I can't test the above theory. Have you ever replaced the fuel filter under the drivers side door punch weld area?
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Mar 29, 2014 20:37
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Isimoad posted:Have you ever replaced the fuel filter under the drivers side door punch weld area? Yes. That was replaced earlier this week as a first try. We played with it more. No DTC. Bank 2 fuel o2 goes up to 20% on the computer while bank 2 fuel goes from 0-4% sitting there looking stupid. Percentage of what. I don't know. When you press the pedal timing advances to 40 degrees as well and dips down to 29 degrees when lifting. The computer numbers look like a fuel/timing issue. Sitting looking at it, it sounds like a timing issue to me. Weird ford stuff. Also have a hissing sound from the rear muffler and it blows a ton of white smoke. We pulled the plugs and they look normal. Slight brownish. Dad wants to throw a fuel pump at it. I have no idea what to do next.
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Mar 29, 2014 22:26
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Didn't a bunch of Fords around that year have crappy electronic throttle bodies that would either crap out or not open all the way? Maybe that or a faulty pedal position sensor? That is some weird poo poo.
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Mar 30, 2014 06:02
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Removes y pipe and o2 sensors. Car has power again and sounds like a 350z. Going to put the y pipe back on and o2s disconnected. If it dies its cats. If it doesn't its o2s. Will plug them in one by one to narrow it down + multimeter test.  Edit: turns out the cats barfed themselves all the way through the exhaust into the muffler and that was blocking air flow. Dumped out the muffler and put it back together again. Will probably get a new Y pipe to keep the car happy rather than broomstick mod the y pipe. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Mar 31, 2014 |
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Mar 30, 2014 17:06
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BAP installed with a little help from a visiting AIer. Tune booked for 9am at AED.
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Mar 31, 2014 19:45
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Slow is Fast posted:Removes y pipe and o2 sensors. Car has power again and sounds like a 350z. Well, you could gut them and install the rear O2 sensors with anti-foulers to pull the sensor out of the airstream, restricting the oxygen flowing over them so they send the signal the PCM is looking for. But of course that would be illegal. 
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Apr 1, 2014 07:19
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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:BAP installed with a little help from a visiting AIer. Tune booked for 9am at AED. Nice. Should be fairly straightforward and quick. I am interested to see what kind of numbers you put down.
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Apr 1, 2014 14:13
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Anyone ever deal with P0174 on their new edge? I started getting it yesterday morning, car seems to run fine otherwise. I have noticed slightly more exhaust smell when starting the car or sitting at red lights, so Im hoping its just an easy exhaust leak somewhere. Idle isn't too rough but it could be better, varies between 800-1000. Before I get it checked out I figure I can give the mass airflow a cleaning to see if that'll fix it, lot of people suggesting that when you google the code.
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Apr 3, 2014 15:22
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That's a pretty common error code. Off the top of my head, the 02 sensor on the pax side (I think) is picking up a lean condition which can be bad 02 sensor, vacuum leak, dirty MAF, or a couple other minor things. Shouldn't be too hard to troubleshoot.
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Apr 3, 2014 15:54
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An exhaust leak before the sensor can also throw a lean code, and would explain the smell. Might want to check the manifold gaskets and hardware (and possibly the next connection, I don't know where the sensor is on Mustangs, this is just general info).
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Apr 3, 2014 16:18
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