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With the Unicorn you just have to transform it into Unicorn mode before you disassemble it.
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Mar 22, 2014 01:46
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BlitzBlast posted:
This is all leading up to a Master Grade Kapool, right?
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Mar 22, 2014 02:42
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boom boom boom posted:This is all leading up to a Master Grade Kapool, right? You have no idea how much I want an MG Kapool. The Kapool and GM Sniper II need MGs like, yesterday. I'm hoping that because of Build Fighters, we may someday get a MG GM Sniper II and GM Sniper K9. Someday...
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Mar 22, 2014 03:52
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The Leper Colon V posted:Get some actual sandpaper, got it. Consider a couple Popsicle sticks to glue strips of sandpaper on as well, both your fingers and the model will thank you. Also, while not a proper model nipper, a small pair of wire cutters will be so much more pleasant to use then nail clippers that it's worth digging them out if you already have some. I learned both these things the hard way on a 1/100 Flag that I just finished snapping together after many years of forgetting Gundam kits existed. (Damnit, Build Fighters) Spoiler alert: It came out like poo poo, but man was it a fun romp down Nostalgia Lane. Oh, and if anyone remembers me freaking out about the number of parts in the MG Tallgeese up thread, I freaked out almost as much going from building an F-90 P Type to the Flag. Only in a good way this time. 
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Mar 22, 2014 04:00
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Was there for the premier of Twitch Plays Emerald, and decided to see if I could finish the Hyper Mega Launcher before they could get their starter. I almost made it but then the landing gear stymied me. First up, turns out I was wrong. This thing is primarily based off the HG, just slightly modified to equal the MG's level of parts separation. They even give you the connector to plug into the bottom of the MG Zeta 2.0, though presumably that won't work with the RG. Kept it just in case though.  Biggest difference is this latch, which is well known as the main reason why the HG HML can't fit onto the RG. It's been trimmed from a solid piece into two walls and a flat surface between them, and has a new connection that honestly doesn't work all that well. There's also a new part similar to the HG's connector into the bottom of HG Zeta, which was kind of annoying to figure out how to use since there are no instructions given.  Here it is compared to the ZZ's Double Beam Rifle. Still ridiculously heavy, even the ZZ's shields couldn't support it at full extension. I dunno if the RG Zeta's inner frame is enough for this to be honest.  "Flight mode" for both I guess. The promo pics for the RG HML show it coming with the HG's landing gear, but those aren't actually included. Instead you get these two really small parts that don't actually fit where they're supposed to go and wouldn't reach the ground even if they did. Thoughts on the kit? It's alright. It's got a giant seam running down the entire middle, and it's made of that really cheap, rigid plastic that you can't really sand. Had to disassemble it a couple times, each time thinking I'd snap a peg. I never did, which is either because I was so careful or because it's pretty durable. I dunno. Checked back to the stream after typing this all up and they're still not done with the tutorial.  EDIT: Tested out the Nu vKa's leftover sheet of effect parts, and it turned out it was too small for the HG.  So I tried something else. It looks pretty silly, but better than nothing. 
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 04:07
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http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2014/03/hguc-1144-neo-zeong-on-display-anime.html wow
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Mar 22, 2014 14:41
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drat, that thing's big  . "Yes, it is true; We designed this thing on a drunken bet, just to see if the toy guys would actually make an HG kit the size of a toddler." edit: There's also a picture of the Crossbone Maoh's chest cannon. I'm a little sad it wasn't "Eyebeams-o'-Doom"  .
Neddy Seagoon fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 16:02
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25k Yen, so given import prices and shipping that'll probably be anywhere from $300-350 for foreigners. Oh right and holy goddamn poo poo Bandai. I'm pretty sure if I bought it and put it on display somewhere, it's big enough that my cat would think we got another pet to replace him and he'd challenge it to a fight. EDIT: I know how money works! TARDISman fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 16:39
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Okay, looks like nowhere local sells gunpla, so I'll probably have to import. If I do, what's the general consensus on the two shipping methods? SAL is a lot cheaper for lighter packages, but the uninsured/3-week time is making me wary.
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Mar 22, 2014 16:45
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The Leper Colon V posted:Okay, looks like nowhere local sells gunpla, so I'll probably have to import. If I do, what's the general consensus on the two shipping methods? SAL is a lot cheaper for lighter packages, but the uninsured/3-week time is making me wary. EMS is perfectly fine and quite quick, but they do tend to send kits just wrapped in a plastic shipping bag rather than in a cardboard parcel.
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Mar 22, 2014 16:49
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The Leper Colon V posted:Okay, looks like nowhere local sells gunpla, so I'll probably have to import. If I do, what's the general consensus on the two shipping methods? SAL is a lot cheaper for lighter packages, but the uninsured/3-week time is making me wary. I've never lost anything from SAL, for what it's worth. If the price difference between the two shipping methods is less than 10% of the value of the shipment I just EMS it because why not; more than that and I wait for the boat to come in.
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Mar 22, 2014 16:51
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Midjack posted:I've never lost anything from SAL, for what it's worth. If the price difference between the two shipping methods is less than 10% of the value of the shipment I just EMS it because why not; more than that and I wait for the boat to come in. The price difference isn't so bad, considering what you'd pay for the EMS rate is usually about what you'd pay locally in-store.
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Mar 22, 2014 16:56
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It looks like I can actually get a Plavisky Wing Star Build Strike for the same price as the regular Build Strike + Shipping. I was going to have to get the tools on Amazon anyways, so I can throw that in there, and get free shipping.  ...anyone have any experience with putting Future on the translucent wing effect bits? I'm wondering if it'd make them look better. Since, from the pictures, they look pretty plastic-y.
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Mar 22, 2014 17:01
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Future is a gloss coat, so yes it makes transparent plastic more shiny. It's one of the very few tools you'll have that will actually work on clear plastic.
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Mar 22, 2014 17:23
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Hm... I wonder if there's a way to use Future, and then intentionally frost the plastic slightly. That seems like it'd make a cool effect.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:03
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Just spray a flat coat on top of the Future. You'll cover up the gloss though.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:21
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The Leper Colon V posted:Hm... I wonder if there's a way to use Future, and then intentionally frost the plastic slightly. That seems like it'd make a cool effect. Some high grit sandpaper miiiight work? I forget whether or not you can make it more glasslike by essentially polishing with higher grit sandpaper, but you can definitely create a frosted effect.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:35
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Neddy Seagoon posted:drat, that thing's big I love it, I want to someday have it fighting the Dendrobium or something. Also 'Screaming Skull Of Destruction' is still a pretty cool chest cannon.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:50
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Kitfox88 posted:I love it, I want to someday have it fighting the Dendrobium or something. That's a whole new level of Gunpla modeling, spending about a month's rent on 2 models. I really can't get over how goddamn huge the thing is. The only thing that's more mindblowing than the size is how big the box is going to be.
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Mar 22, 2014 21:28
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TARDISman posted:That's a whole new level of Gunpla modeling, spending about a month's rent on 2 models. I really can't get over how goddamn huge the thing is. The only thing that's more mindblowing than the size is how big the box is going to be. What's amazing to me is how if this was 40K that would easily cost 2-3x as much e.g. (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-40000/Titans/MARS-PATTERN-REAVER-TITAN-BODY-ONLY.html) costing ~700 dollars. Also, just wanted to chime in and say, gently caress the stickers on the Build Strike Full Package. This might be my last HG because I'm tired of stickers. EDIT: You might be able to tell I'm still sour from my 40k days. unpurposed fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 21:30
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The Neo Zeong is kind of interesting to me because as far as I can tell it's Bandai taking a good old-fashioned risk. A relatively safe risk, of course, since Neo Zeong is the suit of the main villain of a wildly popular show that is about to have its finale, but still a risk. If it does well I'm hopeful this'll start a new precedent and we see more oddball kits. It's probably going to crash horribly though.
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Mar 22, 2014 21:34
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I've been cutting back on my kit stockpiling (he says, as he opens the box of the Kotobukiya Levatein) but I'll probably grab it for the balls out insanity of the thing.
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Mar 22, 2014 22:35
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Midjack posted:I've been cutting back on my kit stockpiling (he says, as he opens the box of the Kotobukiya Levatein) but I'll probably grab it for the balls out insanity of the thing. The full size one is out? Where did you get it?
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Mar 22, 2014 22:51
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:The full size one is out? Where did you get it? HLJ has it in stock. Amazon and some other places claim it's not coming out until september, don't know what the deal with that is.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:27
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So this happened to one of the joints when I was assembling the RG GP01: It can still sort of work but that part near the foot will flop around. Not sure if I can glue it.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:41
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Your only real choice is to weld that back on. Most parts order services will not allow you to order individual pieces from an RG's inner frame.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:47
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BlitzBlast posted:Your only real choice is to weld that back on. Most parts order services will not allow you to order individual pieces from an RG's inner frame.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:56
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Hey I was interested in getting a Nineball model. Does anyone know if the Armored Core models are any good?
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Mar 22, 2014 23:57
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Zeether posted:I don't have anything to weld it with and I've never done it before, so I'm probably hosed. Just order some Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Or Tamiya Regular Cement if you're comfortable working with brushes. It's very easy to use, don't stress out. TheBigTwo posted:Hey I was interested in getting a Nineball model. Does anyone know if the Armored Core models are any good? They're as solid as any other Kotobukiya model as far as I know. Biggest hassle you'll have is finding one.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:00
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TheBigTwo posted:Hey I was interested in getting a Nineball model. Does anyone know if the Armored Core models are any good? I've put a couple together. They're pretty good; coming in between a HG and MG in complexity and separation. They will definitely need painting to look good.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:09
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I'll probably just assemble the rest of the GP01 with the inner frame of the leg exposed or something and call it battle damage. 
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Mar 23, 2014 01:40
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They did a loving killer job on the MG ball's ejection pin marks. there's like two really bad ones and they're REALLY BAD but all the others are hidden and fine and easy to remove if you feel necessary. This is a cool kit
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Mar 23, 2014 01:41
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:The full size one is out? Where did you get it? HLJ.
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Mar 23, 2014 03:00
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unpurposed posted:What's amazing to me is how if this was 40K that would easily cost 2-3x as much e.g. (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-40000/Titans/MARS-PATTERN-REAVER-TITAN-BODY-ONLY.html) costing ~700 dollars.
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Mar 23, 2014 03:11
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I'm thinking about getting a Red Frame and custom painting it with chrome gold to resemble the Knight of Gold from FSS, would you guys recommend doing a candy coat with clear yellow (and what yellow would you recommend) or is there a really good metallic gold paint I could use instead?
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Mar 23, 2014 03:18
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Zeether posted:So this happened to one of the joints when I was assembling the RG GP01: This is quite fixable but needs to be done carefully. Do the following: - close-up eyeball the pieces and find the orientation that "fits." Use the molding seam as a guide. Mark the upward-facing side of the broken bit with something so you'll know it at a glance. – A drop of thin liquid cement on the base of the broken-off piece and a drop on the spot it broke from should be sufficient. Let the parts sit for 10-15 seconds so the cement has some chance to work, and then carefully fit the pieces together, again using the molding seams and your orientation mark as guides (a pair of cheap reading glasses may help with things like this). Once you are sure you have it right, press it in there just firmly enough that the pieces bond, and then let the weld cure. If the bond seems weak, one more drop applied carefully to the base of the join shouldn't hurt anything, though generally more cement = longer cure time. – let it cure for a LONG TIME. Impatience does not mix well with repairs like these. A week is not too long. After it's cured you'll want to avoid putting any undue stress on the weld, so be mindful when you pop the toe back on and always take care afterwards to treat that joint gently. As a footnote, never use super glue for this sort of thing, it's not suited for the task in any way .
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Mar 23, 2014 03:38
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mr. stefan posted:I'm thinking about getting a Red Frame and custom painting it with chrome gold to resemble the Knight of Gold from FSS, would you guys recommend doing a candy coat with clear yellow (and what yellow would you recommend) or is there a really good metallic gold paint I could use instead? Vallejo Liquid Gold is pretty much the best gold paint ever. It takes special steps to work with it, but its so worth it if you are willing. Black primer, gold then heavy gloss coats will get some really smooth gold  not mine, airbrush with no gloss Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 03:54
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The only problem I've got with this ball kit so far (no bad seam lines, even on the cylindrical arm bases) is the "sleeves" at the base of the arms being polycaps. Whatever, it'll decay over time and I can't really paint it, but it looks fine.
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Mar 23, 2014 03:59
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mr. stefan posted:would you guys recommend doing a candy coat with clear yellow (and what yellow would you recommend) or is there a really good metallic gold paint I could use instead? You candy coat when you don't have access to metallic. If you want absolute quality, Alclad's gold is the best you'll find. Testor's metallic gold is also very solid. You can try some acrylic gold if you want, but generally metallics don't come out too great with that paint type.
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Mar 23, 2014 05:19
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Fauxtool posted:Vallejo Liquid Gold is pretty much the best gold paint ever. It takes special steps to work with it, but its so worth it if you are willing. Is this the one you mean?. How airbrush friendly is it? I'm hoping to get a really shiny chrome gold look.
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Mar 23, 2014 05:44
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