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Fucknag posted:Though it's fine if you've got the filter wrench and a long enough extension. gently caress that retarded little tool. Sometimes I'd get cars coming in for their first ever oil change and the drain bung would be so tight (from the factory) that it would undo the entire filter housing and turn the underside of the car into a complete scatfest.
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Mar 24, 2014 01:35
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MetaJew posted:
I did this in my browser: 
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Mar 24, 2014 01:37
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Checking/adding power steering fluid on a GM 3800, anyone?   
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Mar 24, 2014 01:54
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^lmao loving GM. Love the battery location on those, too.^Slavvy posted:gently caress that retarded little tool. Sometimes I'd get cars coming in for their first ever oil change and the drain bung would be so tight (from the factory) that it would undo the entire filter housing and turn the underside of the car into a complete scatfest. Oh, every single time. Most of the cars I had in, as soon as I felt that the plug wasn't coming loose I'd just sigh and unscrew the housing, letting it all dribble down. Then I'd take the housing and lock it in a vise, and loosen the plug that way; replace the o-ring and lube with a little oil, and it'll actually be usable next time the car's in. God drat I do not miss lube shop work.
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Mar 24, 2014 01:55
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I like the battery location on the Solstice a bit better. To clarify: http://www.cherod.com/solstice/HowTos/batteryReplacement.htm quote:Start to finish this was less than one hour
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Mar 24, 2014 01:58
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Slavvy posted:Hahahahaa the corolla comes with a CVT there? Sweet god. The current one does here too: 
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Mar 24, 2014 02:10
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Are you guys saying that there are modern cars which have open paper oil filters like this? This is irritating 1980s technology even on bikes, which lag behind cars in technology. That's just offensive.
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Mar 24, 2014 02:26
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Are you guys saying that there are modern cars which have open paper oil filters like this? This is irritating 1980s technology even on bikes, which lag behind cars in technology. That's just offensive. Sure, all modern BMWs, Ecotec motors, some Volvos, some Toyotas, etc.
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Mar 24, 2014 02:35
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Mercedes were using that type of filter during the 60s and 70s. Not sure about current models.
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Mar 24, 2014 02:41
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poo poo, my 3.8 Hyundai has a paper filter. It's more common than you think.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:16
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Yeah, that filter type is common as balls. There are also types that have end-caps which are made of thick felty paper stuff. You force the end onto a barbed pipe in the filter cap, which I guess somehow makes the paper seal against oil flow. Then when you screw the filter housing on, the other end also gets impaled on the feed pipe.Root Bear posted:Checking/adding power steering fluid on a GM 3800, anyone? To be fair, the engine was designed for RWD applications. It's just plain ol' laziness and cheapness. dissss posted:The current one does here too: Christ.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:18
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Well you see it's cheaper because you're only buying the paper element, not a whole expensive metal canister! (never mind the aforementioned service issues, or the fact that their comparative rarity means economies of scale give spin-ons the advantage again) The only real advantage to cartridge filters is that it's "easier" to mount the filter remotely/up top, but even that can be done if you care to (the Tacoma and 08-10 Passat 2.0 spring to mind); it's pointless bullshit that complicates service, especially when they're just stuck in the same tight undercar crevice as older spin-on locations.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:21
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I remember reading that you get better flow through a paper filter than a can filter. Haven't tested it myself.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:22
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televiper posted:I remember reading that you get better flow through a paper filter than a can filter. Haven't tested it myself. But....the paper gets put into a can.......it's just a less replaceable one.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:25
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I love the cartridge filter in my BMW. You can change the filter without changing the oil (if you're running full synthetic and want to replace the filter at a more frequent interval, for instance), you can visually inspect the oil itself from up top without having to drain it, you don't have to fumble around with a guaranteed messy (and potentially hot) filter in an awkward location under the car, you can actually get a look at the condition of the filter element without cutting it open or destroying it, etc. I wish all my cars had them. Placing a cartridge filter on the underside of the car, however, is loving stupid.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:29
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Having a filter nicely located at the top of the engine that doesn't dump oil out by design is anything but irritating.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:35
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Fucknag posted:it's pointless bullshit that complicates service, especially when they're just stuck in the same tight undercar crevice as older spin-on locations. If this complicates service for you, then sweet lord don't work on European cars.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:41
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Carteret posted:If this complicates service for you, then sweet lord don't work on European cars. Having to get a special wrench to remove the cartridge, vs. just using a plier wrench? Needing to hunt around/buy various permutations of odd-size Torx bits, 12-point drive and triple-square bits? Sounds about right. And yeah I agree having them up top negates most of the annoyances, it's specifically the non-euro brands that, as mentioned, keep them down below. Special mention, though, goes to transition-model Ford trucks/Panther cars with the modular V8, when they switched from parallelogram to rack-and-pinion steering and kept the filter in the same place, making it about 5 times less accessible due to the rack being in the way.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:51
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Changing the oil on a modern BMW is super simple. Don't need a special tool to take out the cartridge, it doesn't spill, and you can drain the pan without removing any underbody panels.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:55
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First time I changed the oil on my e82, I groaned at the thought of taking off the underbody paneling. That trap door that lets you get at the oil drain bolt owns.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:42
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CharlesM posted:The explanation for that is the hole is something for manufacturing, not an access hole....... I thought I remember hearing that it lines up on the 2.0 engines, but not the 2.3/turbos. I promptly cut a new one in the right spot for mine after the second oil change of taking off the undertray when half the bolts were seized. Also recently converted to a spin on filter, which is nice.
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Mar 24, 2014 05:15
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I dunno. It would have been perfect if it was in the right place, though.
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opengl128 posted:I thought I remember hearing that it lines up on the 2.0 engines, but not the 2.3/turbos. I promptly cut a new one in the right spot for mine after the second oil change of taking off the undertray when half the bolts were seized. This is what I heard as well. I was going to do both of these to my Mazda 3, but it took a truck up the rear end before I reached the first oil change interval.
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Mar 24, 2014 05:46
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Oil changes on motorcycles suck more than you could think. Most of the time sport bikes need to have the mid or lower fairing removed to access the filter. After that, you get about 6" between the engine case and hot exhaust header. The filter wrenches are stupid expensive too - $70 OEM Honda/Yamaha/Kawasaki filter wrench, $40 OEM Suzuki wrench. Universal ones are garbage - incorrectly sized to fit on or pop off easily or have the nut / 3/8" drive break off. Big loving cruisers are just as annoying. Honda VT750's come to mind. The drain plug is hidden in a recess in the case, behind a coolant hose that you can't move to fit a socket past, on the left side of the engine. If the bike is on its side stand, a regular length wrench won't fit the angle to grab the drain plug and leave you with room to break it lose. The Yamaha XV1900 is just like that, but with less room between the drain plug and frame. Oh, and there are two of those for the engine and one for the oil tank. 0.5 hr flat rate for an oil change on those. Kill me.
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Mar 24, 2014 06:26
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My Husqvarna had two oil drain plugs within inches of one another. One required a 12mm socket, and the other required a gigantic hex driver for reasons known only to 
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Mar 24, 2014 06:47
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DefaultPeanut posted:Oil changes on motorcycles suck more than you could think. Most of the time sport bikes need to have the mid or lower fairing removed to access the filter. After that, you get about 6" between the engine case and hot exhaust header. The filter wrenches are stupid expensive too - $70 OEM Honda/Yamaha/Kawasaki filter wrench, $40 OEM Suzuki wrench. Universal ones are garbage - incorrectly sized to fit on or pop off easily or have the nut / 3/8" drive break off. Safety Dance posted:My Husqvarna had two oil drain plugs within inches of one another. One required a 12mm socket, and the other required a gigantic hex driver for reasons known only to My KTM has two oil drain plugs, a spin on oil filter, a cartridge oil filter, and a mesh screen filter. The drain plugs are two different size hex bolts. There is also a hex key screw that goes into the frame where the spin on filter goes to fully drain the oil out of the frame. You also have to bleed the oil system after changing it. All in all, it's not bad, but it is tedious. It probably takes me an hour to do it all, measuring out the right amount of oil for the frame and crank case, and removing and replacing the skid plate.
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Mar 24, 2014 07:02
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Fucknag posted:Well you see it's cheaper because you're only buying the paper element, not a whole expensive metal canister! (never mind the aforementioned service issues, or the fact that their comparative rarity means economies of scale give spin-ons the advantage again) Which is why AutoZone (and other parts stores) charge far, far more for the paper element compared to a can - and why they exclude such filters from their "buy oil and filter for $X" deals.  Even at Wal-Mart, I pay $8 for an oil filter. It's the same filter drat near every Ecotec uses.  That said, it's nice being able to change the oil filter from above; if I'm really hungover/shaky, I might spill 3 or 4 drops. And I can order replacement oil filter housing caps easily (half of the ones you buy online come with a new cap/o-ring for an extra $1-2). A crescent wrench is all I need to change the filter 
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Mar 24, 2014 07:12
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some texas redneck posted:Which is why AutoZone (and other parts stores) charge far, far more for the paper element compared to a can - and why they exclude such filters from their "buy oil and filter for $X" deals. Now do it on a Cobalt SS/SC.
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Mar 24, 2014 08:05
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Not enough "nopes" in the world for that challenge.
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Mar 24, 2014 08:06
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Toyotas 1KZ-TE 3.0L Turbodiesel has a catridge filter mounted at 45 degrees towards the block on the injector pump side of the engine, which sounds like a recipe for a mess, but they then made the filter mount have a cast in tray with a hose that runs down and drops out behind the sump next to the drain plug. So you just unscrew the filter and walk away while it drains itself into your oil pan and then you take an oil free filter off and throw it away. I was kinda dissapointed that my 100 series didnt have the same system, its just got a small tray under the filter to catch any leaks and you have to mop it out. Im seriously thinking of drilling a hole into it and brazing in a bung to run a hose down to the back of the sump like the small diesel has.
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Mar 24, 2014 11:08
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Fucknag posted:Now do it on a Cobalt SS/SC. Its incredibly easy on the base model Cobalt, but that's a different motor. Now on the aforementioned 3800, try doing it without getting oil all over the passenger side control arm and subframe.
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Mar 24, 2014 12:18
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DefaultPeanut posted:Oil changes on motorcycles suck more than you could think. Most of the time sport bikes need to have the mid or lower fairing removed to access the filter. After that, you get about 6" between the engine case and hot exhaust header. First time I changed the oil, half a litre covered the header and my driveway I've found the easiest way to do it is to chop part of the handle off a 3 litre milk bottle /jug and wedge the remainder of the bottle between the oil drain and the header I undo the sump plug and the oil all runs into the hacked up bottle
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Mar 24, 2014 13:19
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The oil change on my Vulcan 500 was dead simple (filter front and center, drain right in the middle, easy to reach), though I always did it on a cold engine, so the headers weren't a worry. The coolant drain, however, was about an inch above the exhaust. There was no way to drain the coolant without it getting all over the pipe other than taking the exhaust off (no way). And it was angled forward, so it would shoot out horizontally at first, then just dribble out at the end, so you had to keep your eye on it or it would miss the drain pan.
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Mar 24, 2014 13:32
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My car has a little skidplate/splash guard thingy that comes off and folds back by unbolting 4 bolts. They told me that due to that (and the canister oil filter) it would be an extra $20 to change the oil in my car. I find that hilarious. I'll most likely be doing it myself next weekend anyway.
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Mar 24, 2014 13:39
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Phone posted:I like the battery location on the Solstice a bit better. "The second procedure is a bit less involved and does not require removal of the right fender."  It's a BATTERY.
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Mar 24, 2014 13:49
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MetaJew posted:My KTM has two oil drain plugs, a spin on oil filter, a cartridge oil filter, and a mesh screen filter. The drain plugs are two different size hex bolts. There is also a hex key screw that goes into the frame where the spin on filter goes to fully drain the oil out of the frame. You also have to bleed the oil system after changing it. At least my Yamaha only has two drain plugs and a cartridge filter. Dry sump systems are weird when you've only ever worked on wet sumps. Oil change procedure goes as follows:
Oh yeah, and the oil level can only be checked on a hot engine, since the oil slowly drains from the oil tank when the engine isn't running. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 24, 2014 14:00
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Am I correct in reading that step 15 is "intentionally starve the engine of oil"?
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Mar 24, 2014 14:04
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Safety Dance posted:Am I correct in reading that step 15 is "intentionally starve the engine of oil"? I actually forgot one step, you also have to remove the camshaft sprocket cover when draining the oil. And I got it a bit wrong, the total amount of oil needed during an oil change is 2.6L and you need to add the first 1.9L first, then rev the engine, and then you can add the last 0.7L. See, it's my bike and I even get the details wrong. Then again, it's a Japanese-designed bike with an Italian engine, and built in France. E: This is directly from the manual (emphasis mine): quote:The engine oil tank must be filled with engine oil in two steps. First, fill the engine oil tank with 1.9 L (1.67 Imp qt, 2.00 US qt) of the recommended engine oil. Then, start the engine, race it five or six times, turn it off, and then add the remainder of the engine oil. I think maybe Yamaha is trying too hard to meet the "ready to race" example set by KTM. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 24, 2014 14:11
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Safety Dance posted:Am I correct in reading that step 15 is "intentionally starve the engine of oil"? Oil pump needs to run to move the new oil so it'll fill up the filter cavity and soak into the filter. That's where the level drop in the oil tank comes from, and it's pretty much immediate. You can avoid most of that by pre-soaking the filter, but it's really too messy that way to bother with. The Aprilia Rotax is the same way. Note this scrub dribbles oil all over the coolant hose but ten seconds fashioning a chute out of aluminum foil avoids that. Beyond that the biggest hassles are the common issue of the drain plug threads being easy to strip, the fairings using five different bolt sizes that take two different allen wrenches, and 15w50 synthetic being nasty expensive (some people just run Rotella and call it a day.) The Speed Triple is even simpler to change the oil on as it has no fairings, wet sump, and the easily accessed filter is spin-on. Drain bolt, filter, new filter, drain bolt, new oil, done. Don't forget the crush washer, I guess. Of course you need a laptop to reset the ECU's service interval.
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Mar 24, 2014 15:45
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KozmoNaut posted:I actually forgot one step, you also have to remove the camshaft sprocket cover when draining the oil.
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Mar 24, 2014 20:00
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Slavvy posted:Which Yamaha is this? XT660X.
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Mar 24, 2014 20:41
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