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Today I added more POWAH to my bike. Only set the plastics* on fire once!   Hopefully my hand will be healed and I can test it out this weekend. *slightly melted the plastic sheet used to hold the wire bundle together behind the front fairing. I got it out of the way once I realised it was melting. ephphatha fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 11:51
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Snowdens Secret posted:Trying to crank with a low batt can kill your starter and/or sprag clutch, neither of which are generally cheap / easy fixes ('specially the sprag.) I only tried it once and immediately realized what happened. Addressing the wiring in my bike is the next project. I want to put in a usb outlet and check the main wiring harness for rubbing since that was apparently a recall which was never done on the bike.
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Mar 19, 2014 11:59
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Slavvy posted:FWIW pushing the pistons back against the master cylinder is Not A Good Thing for every component involved. I don't give a gently caress on cars and do it anyway, but on bikes I prefer to open the bleed screw and push them back. Also means you don't have to worry about trying to siphon down the fluid in the reservoir. Especially if you have a cast alloy reservoir which is painted, as opposed to the plastic sort. Why? I can see no part in the system that would be stressed by fluid flowing backwards through the system - yes, the fluid is moving through the bleed hole in the reservoir vs. a bleed screw, but the concept is the same. And if your braking system can hold max pressure hard on the brakes, the force of your fingers pushing in on the pistons is nothing. That goes double if you eject the pistons with air or a grease gun.
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Mar 19, 2014 17:07
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I know. I used to use that exact argument. And yet, having seen a couple of bikes get hosed up this way, I now do it the 'proper' way. Also some ABS systems don't like it either.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:31
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Mounted and installed my 2CT's on the DRZ last night, along with replacing brake pads, installing stainless lines and changing brake fluid. Now the only thing left to do is reassemble the top end and move out of loving Wisconsin because it's 32 degrees and snowy next week 
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Mar 19, 2014 20:27
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Slavvy posted:I know. I used to use that exact argument. And yet, having seen a couple of bikes get hosed up this way, I now do it the 'proper' way. Abs is a completely different setup - each system has it's own quirks. What broke on bikes you saw getting screwed up by doing that?
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Mar 19, 2014 20:53
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Master cylinder. VFR400 nc30 (mine) and VTR1000F (my mate's). I think if you have a tired brake system, doing that just pushes it over the edge.
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Mar 19, 2014 21:16
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Yerok posted:Now the only thing left to do is reassemble the top end and move out of loving Wisconsin because it's 32 degrees and snowy next week As homesick as I get for Madison (my hometown for my first 30 years on earth) and the rest of Wisconsin I moved to The Motorcycle's Republic of California a couple years ago and highly recommend it.
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Mar 19, 2014 22:32
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Slavvy posted:Master cylinder. VFR400 nc30 (mine) and VTR1000F (my mate's). I think if you have a tired brake system, doing that just pushes it over the edge. And actually, the weirdest ABS systems I'm familiar with (BMW) will behave the same way, despite not having a piston. Push the caliper pistons in and it'll just push the fluid level higher in the reservoir.
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Mar 20, 2014 00:27
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Slavvy posted:FWIW pushing the pistons back against the master cylinder is Not A Good Thing for every component involved. I don't give a gently caress on cars and do it anyway, but on bikes I prefer to open the bleed screw and push them back. Also means you don't have to worry about trying to siphon down the fluid in the reservoir. Especially if you have a cast alloy reservoir which is painted, as opposed to the plastic sort. How is pushing the cylinder with a c-clamp different than the cylinder being pushed by the brake disc after you let go of the lever?
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Mar 20, 2014 01:43
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The disc doesn't push back the pistons appreciably, most of the 'pulling back' is done by the piston seals themselves. My theory is that the sheer volume of fluid being pushed back when you use a clamp is somehow more than the system is designed to deal with, and a tired MC just gives up. I really don't know, I know it doesn't make much sense, but I've heard of it happening to other people too. Not to mention the majority of car mechanics don't like doing it either for *reasons*, but cars are so much more robust than bikes in general that I don't worry about it. It could also be that either of those bikes had semi-seized caliper pistons and that getting a fresh MC forced them back out the way a lovely old one couldn't.
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Mar 20, 2014 02:12
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Today I lovingly washed, buffed and polished my Bonneville to take photos of it in preparation to sell it... then I dropped the fucker coming back from the beach and smashed a wing mirror.
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Mar 20, 2014 06:41
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Slavvy posted:The disc doesn't push back the pistons appreciably, most of the 'pulling back' is done by the piston seals themselves. How is your first z3n questioning going?
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Mar 20, 2014 07:09
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Pretty much the way my own internal dialogue went when I was thinking about it. I know it makes no sense. But there it is.
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Mar 20, 2014 07:44
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Mar 20, 2014 08:06
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So which one is Slavvy in this example?
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Mar 20, 2014 11:10
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Seems to me it's better to find out your mc is blown in the garage than on the road 
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Mar 20, 2014 16:04
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If there was crud in the calipers and you force all the fluid up and out you're going to probably deposit some in the MC, where it could gently caress up your already tired piston seal.
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Mar 20, 2014 18:09
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I don't get it. Z3n posted:Seems to me it's better to find out your mc is blown in the garage than on the road I agree, it's just really depressing when you think you're about to go out for a ride on brakes that finally work and you have a unicorn bike that is hard to get parts for.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:24
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New slip on! Replaced the stock exhaust on my CBR500R with an aluminum TBR black series. Sounds awesome now. It was so quiet before I couldn't really even hear it while riding. Now I get to BRAP BRAP BRAP away from a light.
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Mar 21, 2014 08:56
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I rode it! Not a giant event but I only got it Wednesday (first bike) and had only ridden it on the 10 minute commute to work and back, until today! Put a good 100 miles on it through the Kent countryside.
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Mar 22, 2014 18:25
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I put the cover back over the back half of my seat. Something the PO has mounted, little plastic thing - I took it off when I got the bike, but since I removed my rear passenger pegs I thought it needed a little something. Looks pretty nice.
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Mar 22, 2014 20:33
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 SW-Motech mount with givi adaptor.  A whole lot of room for junk in the trunk, Givi 55L top case. Really like the Motech replacement grab bars and mount, and that when I don't need the case removing the adapter plate is 3 easy quick release screws for a cleaner look/strapping poo poo onto it direct. Well worth the increase in price over the givi rack. The hardest part of the drat install was getting the grommets in the givi adapter plate, I gave up and put them in a slightly larger hole, but they are still held in decently. Gillingham fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 21:28
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Washed and waxed (the faded plastics!) the DRZ for the first time since last fall, and promptly took a bad camera phone picture of it.
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Mar 23, 2014 01:31
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Changed the oil and lubed the chain. I thought I was good on maintenance since it's only been about 4 months but happened to check my spreadsheet (yes, of course I have a spreadsheet for maintenance) and realized I did my last O&F change over 5,000 miles ago. I put on way too many commuting miles and not nearly enough fun miles.
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Mar 23, 2014 01:47
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Washed it, lubed the chain and adjusted chain slack. Looks like I need replace the chain and sprockets this summer, chain is getting longer faster than before and some links was abit stiff before I lubed it.
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Mar 24, 2014 19:15
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Nearly dumped it while dicking around off road, then went to get some fuel and aired up the tyres to find out they'd dropped to single digit PSI levels  . Hadn't been riding for a week but I was probably on under inflated tyres for a while before then.
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Mar 24, 2014 21:56
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Not today but this past weekend I finally took it out of winter storage. I think I'm going to just invest in winter gear at the end of this year, not sure if I can go another 4 month period without riding.
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Mar 24, 2014 22:34
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2008 drz400. Changed oil, oil filter, and air filter. I cleaned, lubed, and adjusted the chain. Finished checking the rad and brake fluid. Noticed a bolt missing from the side cover on the exhaust side. Removing the remaining bolt to match it led to cranking the rear spring adjustment all the way down and turning the slow speed valve all the way in to accommodate my 300 pound self. I can hardly believe the difference. Now instead of the rear end dropping and wallowing around when I gas it, it just goes. And now it wheelies better. The bike is 100% ready for March Moto Madness this weekend in Tennessee.
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Mar 25, 2014 00:42
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Installed the after-market pipes that came with the SV1000 I bought a couple of weeks back and took the bike for a spin. Jesus Christ, I sound like an rear end in a top hat now. These slip-ons are so loud it actually hurts my ears to give the bike any revs, and I can see heads turn as I WUD-WUD-WUDD down the road. "Oh look," bystander expressions say, "there goes a man with a tiny peen." SAD FACT #1: Even these ridiculous cans can't mask the high-pitched overlocker whine of the engine so the bike still sounds so-so at best. SAD FACT #2: The previous owner installed a power commander and had the bike dynotuned for this exhaust, so the fuelling seems off for the (otherwise fine) stock exhausts. Either that or I have a previously unknown affinity for coaxing backfires out of motorcycles. IDIOT QUESTION: Kind of sad to lose the (alleged) additional horsepower the previous owner's mods gave the bike, but I'm yanking these bullshit exhausts back off tonight. Would it be worth keeping the power commander and installing a downloaded map for standard pipes? Is there such a thing as a repository of PC3 maps?
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Mar 25, 2014 05:34
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prukinski posted:IDIOT QUESTION: Kind of sad to lose the (alleged) additional horsepower the previous owner's mods gave the bike, but I'm yanking these bullshit exhausts back off tonight. Would it be worth keeping the power commander and installing a downloaded map for standard pipes? Is there such a thing as a repository of PC3 maps? http://www.powercommander.com/power...01000&yrid=2005 Adjust for year although I don't know if it matters for an SV1k
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Mar 25, 2014 05:57
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Snowdens Secret posted:http://www.powercommander.com/power...01000&yrid=2005 Hell yes! Thanks!
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Mar 25, 2014 06:02
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Nidhg00670000 posted:So which one is Slavvy in this example? He just keeps firing but it doesn't matter. The z3n always stabs you thru the chest.
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Mar 25, 2014 06:11
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prukinski posted:SAD FACT #2: The previous owner installed a power commander and had the bike dynotuned for this exhaust, so the fuelling seems off for the (otherwise fine) stock exhausts. Either that or I have a previously unknown affinity for coaxing backfires out of motorcycles. All 4-stroke engines backfire (or crackle and pop) to some degree. How audible it is depends on carbs vs. EFI, cylinder size, exhaust, emissions equipment and a bunch of other factors. My old bike had a completely free-flowing exhaust (no emissions equipment of any kind), backfired like a mofo, flames shot out of the exhaust when hitting the rev limiter, and it sounded like popcorn when engine braking. The mixture was spot on, exhaust temperatures were dead even across all four pipes, carbs were synced pretty good. Everything was as it should be, but it was still flatulent. Even my reasonably modern current bike will pop if I rev it and snap the throttle shut, and crackle on deceleration, despite being completely 100% stock with cats etc. intact. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 13:20
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KozmoNaut posted:My old bike had a completely free-flowing exhaust (no emissions equipment of any kind), backfired like a mofo, flames shot out of the exhaust when hitting the rev limiter, and it sounded like popcorn when engine braking. The mixture was spot on, exhaust temperatures were dead even across all four pipes, carbs were synced pretty good. Everything was as it should be, but it was still flatulent. That sounds loving awesome. All mine doe it shout and burble a little on engine braking.
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Mar 25, 2014 14:08
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PadreScout posted:That sounds loving awesome. All mine doe it shout and burble a little on engine braking. All you need to recreate it is to take an ancient carbed and oil-cooled 4-cylinder, and throw a completely free-flowing exhaust on it. You get a nice uneven idle to go with it, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH5aOjX-bJo Last weekend, I sold it to some dude as his first bike ever. He lives a long way from me and anyone I know, which is a good thing. drat that thing was loud. It had a pretty nice raspy sound to it, though. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 14:13
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My friend's Ninja 636 shot absolutely insane flames constantly - nothing wrong with the bike and I don't even think it had a tune - but it did have a completely straight through exhaust. So sad he sold it, but he was a bit of a squid with it, gym shorts and t-shirt all the time, so I guess it was for the best.
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Mar 25, 2014 15:00
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prukinski posted:Hell yes! Thanks! In my experience all generic maps are poo poo.
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Mar 25, 2014 15:13
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KozmoNaut posted:All 4-stroke engines backfire (or crackle and pop) to some degree. How audible it is depends on carbs vs. EFI, cylinder size, exhaust, emissions equipment and a bunch of other factors. I have a free flowing exhaust on the sporty which roars, backfires, shoots flames and sounds like thunders when engine braking. I love it unlike my neighbours who get to hear it every morning when i leave for work 
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Mar 25, 2014 15:42
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Z3n posted:In my experience all generic maps are poo poo. Probably depends on how picky you are. If you buy a bike with a Power Commander, make sure you load it up on your computer and check the map! The PO could be a huge dummy. I had a PC3 and Scorpion exhaust on a FZ6 and it ran rough as hell on the low end. I loaded up the PC to mess with it one day and the PO had the wrong engine map installed. I downloaded the stock PC3/Scorpion map from their site and it was great! PO's can be dum. It wasn't a perfect map or anything but it was good enough. Sure it would have been better if I had got it done at one of the dyno shops that tunes them.
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Mar 25, 2014 16:13
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