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Finished!  I like the green on the staff more than the green on his body. I mixed fluorescent green with some green ink and I think it looks ok. Looks like he got a nick on his left shoulder, I'll have to touch it up before I clear coat him.
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Mar 25, 2014 13:05
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I'm moving into my house in a couple of weeks, and since I don't plan on moving again for at least a decade I'm going to set up my painting station properly, or as close as I can without really gutting the room to which I have been assigned. Does anyone have suggestions for lighting that will get it off of my work surface, and perhaps provides a more even light? Right now I have 3 desk lamps spread around, so that I don't spend a lot of time painting in a shadow.
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Mar 25, 2014 16:30
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Can someone remind me what that new hotness gold paint is? I remember a lot of discussion of it here at one point. I think it's alcohol based or something? Vallejo? Totally drawing a blank for some reason.
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Mar 25, 2014 17:27
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Fyrbrand posted:Can someone remind me what that new hotness gold paint is? I remember a lot of discussion of it here at one point. I think it's alcohol based or something? Vallejo? Totally drawing a blank for some reason. You might be thinking of Vallejo Old gold in this case which does come in Alcohol and non-alcohol versions.
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Mar 25, 2014 17:31
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Fyrbrand posted:Can someone remind me what that new hotness gold paint is? I remember a lot of discussion of it here at one point. I think it's alcohol based or something? Vallejo? Totally drawing a blank for some reason. If you want an "easy" time painting get Vallejo Model Air Gold colored paint. If you're okay with a bit more hassle and want gold that is actually shiny and reflective you want Vallejo Liquid Gold (yes, that's the name of the line). In that line Vallejo makes like 5 or 6 different shades of gold along with silver and copper. VLG is alcohol based so you need to take some extra steps but it's really worth it if you want a fantastic looking metallic finish. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 18:18
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Pacheeco posted:If you want an "easy" time painting get Vallejo Model Air Gold colored paint. If you're okay with a bit more hassle and want gold that is actually shiny and reflective you want Vallejo Liquid Gold (yes, that's the name of the line). In that line Vallejo makes like 5 or 6 different shades of gold along with silver and copper. VLG is alcohol based so you need to take some extra steps but it's really worth it if you want a fantastic looking metallic finish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA9GiWjl51g (tldw: never paint from pot, thin/wash brush with alcohol (never water), paint will dry immediately so don't correct brushh strokes, come back later if you have to) Pierzak fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 18:27
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Tell me not to buy a Tomb Kings sphinx body to graft onto a soulgrinder.
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Mar 25, 2014 19:23
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That's the stuff, thanks dudes.
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Mar 25, 2014 19:24
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Beerdeer posted:Tell me not to buy a Tomb Kings sphinx body to graft onto a soulgrinder. 
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Mar 25, 2014 20:36
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It's... so beautiful. And 30 extra dollars for the bits. edit: Screw it, ordered. Beerdeer fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Mar 25, 2014 |
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Mar 25, 2014 20:51
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Beerdeer posted:It's... so beautiful. Sometimes you have to spoil yourself, spoil yourself, spoil yourself 
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Mar 25, 2014 21:15
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Zhent posted:I'm moving into my house in a couple of weeks, and since I don't plan on moving again for at least a decade I'm going to set up my painting station properly, or as close as I can without really gutting the room to which I have been assigned. Does anyone have suggestions for lighting that will get it off of my work surface, and perhaps provides a more even light? Right now I have 3 desk lamps spread around, so that I don't spend a lot of time painting in a shadow. I put a shelf over my painting station, and have some of those articulated desk lamps suspended from it. Gives me good lighting I can move around, and doesn't take up any desk space.
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Mar 25, 2014 21:18
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 So I'm working on a base for a Tzeentch Chaos Sorcerer. Does the outcropping look sufficiently crystal? Should I drybrush it lighter and give it a glossy coat or something? Ignore the actual base, it's very much a WIP.
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Mar 26, 2014 02:38
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
Hit it with a wash and add more highlights. Right now it just looks like a spiky blue blob to me. It wouldn't hurt to hit it with some gloss, since you can just go over it with a matte varnish to eliminate the shine if you don't like it.
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Mar 26, 2014 02:46
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Just ordered myself a new W&N Series 7 #1 and am getting back into painting my backlog of tiny miniature dollies. Does anybody (like FIX! ) have the old painting guide for warhammer Vostroyans? Or, barring that, a better modern guide? This is going to be my first by-the-book paint job, and I hope to learn from it.
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Mar 26, 2014 02:50
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I didn't get any acknowledgement from the 40k thread last night when I posted some updated models. I figured I could put them up here tonight for some feedback. Obviously they're deathwing terminators and the librarian from the DV box set. I've got 18 more terminators (23 if I strip paint from some that are currently painted ultramarine), plus a finecast Belial, so I'm putting together a DA force. Light primary color units are a bitch to paint. If anyone has tips or would like me to take some closer pictures on particular models to give feedback on, I'd appreciate it. koreban fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 06:27
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 Hey boys~.   And the reference: 
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Mar 26, 2014 08:03
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VLG is, indeed, the poo poo. If you haven't tried it yet, you are missing out. Alcohol metal paint supremacy
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Mar 26, 2014 08:49
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I've actually been using Golden's artist acrylics for golds lately, and have been pretty happy. Not nearly the clusterfuck level of using alcohol-based paints, a tube of the stuff (which is admittedly expensive) will last literally forever, if my use rate keeps being what it has been, and the color is outstanding. I'll grab some pics on Thursday when I have a chance. VLG is still the bomb for copper, nothing I've found that's better, but for golds, I don't necessarily feel like the benefit outweighs the hassle when compared to the stuff Golden makes. Their Fluid Acrylics line is also pretty rad, if you happen to be in an art store and feeling adventurous. Just make sure that if you get the stuff marked Fine, because the coarse-ground pigments behave poorly at miniature scale.
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Mar 26, 2014 09:39
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koreban posted:I didn't get any acknowledgement from the 40k thread last night when I posted some updated models. I figured I could put them up here tonight for some feedback. This is a nice, simple scheme that works really well, and you've done a good job on it. But if you want feedback, I'd say - The shoulderpads look a bit flat, they could really benefit from some edge highlighting, or some blending towards white at the top, or both. - The wing details on the shin of the front model look a bit patchy, you might want to go over them with another coat of white. - Be a little more careful with mould-lines/flash removal, there's an obvious seam line on the thunder hammer, and some rough plastic on the same model's shoulderpad.
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Mar 26, 2014 09:53
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I saw this in the latest Wargames illustrated; for all those painting goons with a iPhone (I couldn't find it on the App Store on my iPad) there is a pretty neat painting bookkeeping app called paintmyminis. Read about it here.
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Mar 26, 2014 10:03
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I probably should have oathed all these but whatever. Just fleshing out the last few options in my chaos army, the only thing left is that tank I made and a horribly painted Kharn I'm still trying to strip. I need to make a little light box or something, the halogen kitchen light is not the best for this, the brass shows a bit better otherwise. I also spotted the mould lines well into painting them and thought of fixing it, but     
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Mar 27, 2014 00:32
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I did a thing. I didn't photograph it well, but I don't care, it's neat and I want to show it off. Now I have a way of showing off when my warcaster is using his feats! :V
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Mar 27, 2014 00:35
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That is some hot poo poo right there.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:14
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Iris of Ether posted:
Attack >Magic -> AFIR Drink Run
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Mar 27, 2014 01:22
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I did a thing. I didn't photograph it well, but I don't care, it's neat and I want to show it off. Please tell us how you accomplished this magnificence. E: the OSL is amazing :P
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Mar 27, 2014 01:30
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Not to knock it but I think it's lit from the bottom, not OSL. Looks baller.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:43
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CyberLord XP posted:Not to knock it but I think it's lit from the bottom, not OSL. Looks baller. 
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Mar 27, 2014 01:56
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I did a thing. I didn't photograph it well, but I don't care, it's neat and I want to show it off. This looks great! I have a lighting project I'm about to work on for my friend's Monoliths because he has 4 and never fields any of them. Rule of cool.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:56
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 Hey all, here's my test gobbo from the Mantic 'Goblin Rabble' set. Not the finest of detail, but I like how he turned out. Any painting tips or ideas for the bases would be appreciated (he'll have 19 brothers and sisters ).
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Mar 27, 2014 02:02
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I think it looks really good. Maybe work out your basing style? The mini is pretty dark so maybe light brown base dry brushed quite light?
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Mar 27, 2014 02:23
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I did a thing. I didn't photograph it well, but I don't care, it's neat and I want to show it off. This thing is cool as poo poo. Nice work.
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Mar 27, 2014 02:44
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thespaceinvader posted:Please tell us how you accomplished this magnificence. Surface-mount LEDs can be tucked in a lot of places.   At one point I had a buddy who had a laser etching machine that could carve the glyphs into that acrylic. He did me the wonderful favor of making those for me so I could stick lights in there. He also made me a giant one for when I eventually get around to making Karchev, so he can have the same light-up effects. I haven't worked on this in years, but it's one of those things I always meant to get around to. I kind've suck at OSL, so I figured the next best thing was actual lighting!
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Mar 27, 2014 02:45
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koreban posted:
They look good man. Very clean. I'd echo Gravitas Shortfall and say they look a bit flat. They'd benefit from a highlight and some darker colors in the recesses. Next time I see you I'll show you my Dark Angels (I too have 23 Deathwing terminators) edit: if you aren't already, try priming grey. It makes painting light colors much easier! Hixson fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Mar 27, 2014 |
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Mar 27, 2014 02:47
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Tadhg posted:Just ordered myself a new W&N Series 7 #1 and am getting back into painting my backlog of tiny miniature dollies. I liked this dude's guide, but it's not the original: http://fc03.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/114/a/b/Vostroyan_Tutorial___Part_2_by_Belazikkal.pdf If you really want the old guide, send me a PM and I'll dig up the old WD and transcribe it.
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Mar 27, 2014 04:43
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 This is my WIP Nurgle Chaos Lord. I'm in a bit of a rut though about him. I cant quite decide whether I want to paint the raised parts of his armor or not (perhaps in something like brass scorpion?). Part of me thinks it may be to much the other doesnt. Thoughts?
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Mar 27, 2014 05:19
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The Sisko posted:
That depends entirely on what colors you choose for the cape and weapons. As it stands now, you did such an excellent job on the wash I am seeing details I never noticed before. God drat, dude.
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Mar 27, 2014 07:27
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The armour looks neat enough you could avoid painting the raised armour and I'd not call unfinished.dishwasherlove posted:I think it looks really good. Maybe work out your basing style? The mini is pretty dark so maybe light brown base dry brushed quite light? Thanks! Brown and grey dirt and rubble with some yellow flock is my current plan.
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Mar 27, 2014 07:33
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The Sisko posted:
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Mar 27, 2014 10:18
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Weirdo posted:
He looks good but I'd be worried about the color scheme. Like dishwasherlove said, it's very dark. For one model, it's fine, but if you have 20 (or 50!) it's not going to look very cool at all. It seems like once you rank them up all you'd see was a lot of brown and black and a few dots of green for the ears and noses. Everything visually interesting on the model is on the front side of him, and you won't be able to see it since he's hunched over. I like that blade, though, that's a cool rust effect.
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