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Your wife appears to be getting in the way of you starting an unhealthy new relationship.
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Mar 24, 2014 23:51
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So last autocross I had sticky idle after a few runs. The peddle felt fine and the throttle body didn't seem to be sticky but the revs would hang at 1500-2500 steady. Sometimes there would be a little fluctuation then eventually it would drop back down. I'm thinking of looking at the idle air control. Any other suggestions?
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Mar 25, 2014 19:48
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I'd check the cable first before anything else. I've had cables stick in the hot and the cold from gunk built up in the sliders.
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Mar 25, 2014 21:39
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you guys are rookies this is how you get the car you want. Honey I think I am going to buy a brand new corvette it is only $700 a month if I take the 7 year loan. Whath whathahj;a hwhayt a noe noeno non on on o no no no! I think I still want it. Week later, hmm this miata looks nice. How much? $5,000. Go buy it.
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Mar 25, 2014 22:23
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So is there actually a way to stop the spark plug tunnel things from leaking oil? I thought mine stopped when I replaced the valve cover gasket (which came with those round tube seal things) but the miss I had today as a result of an oil soaked spark plug indicates otherwise.
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Mar 26, 2014 06:29
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I need a new top (the current one got ripped near the window after flying open on the freeway, long story, TL;DR I'm a retard). I've read good stuff about robins tops and see that mossmiata sells them for what looks like a reasonable price. Are there any gotchas I should be looking out for? (NB, streamline style, glass window new rain rail) I've been putting off ordering one for the last few weeks because I really don't want to make a $500 mistake, but the duct tape is starting to fall off so I should probably do it sooner rather than later. Also, the current top is tan. Should I go with tan again or switch to black: 
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Mar 26, 2014 06:38
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dpidz0r posted:I need a new top (the current one got ripped near the window after flying open on the freeway, long story, TL;DR I'm a retard). I've read good stuff about robins tops and see that mossmiata sells them for what looks like a reasonable price. Are there any gotchas I should be looking out for? (NB, streamline style, glass window new rain rail) I've been putting off ordering one for the last few weeks because I really don't want to make a $500 mistake, but the duct tape is starting to fall off so I should probably do it sooner rather than later. They are one hell of an install, that's for sure. Budget the whole day if you've never done it before. Go with a Robbins top.
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Mar 26, 2014 07:00
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Jesus, I don't remember my seat-backs going *under* the rollbar when I had my NA. What kind of bar is that?
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Mar 26, 2014 07:35
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Hog Obituary posted:Jesus, I don't remember my seat-backs going *under* the rollbar when I had my NA. What kind of bar is that? I have no idea what the rollbar is, but it was put in by the previous owner who was also responsible for this wonderful MAF gasket hackjob that I found when investigating an intermittent check engine light last year. I wouldn't be surprised if the rollbar is also held in with half a roll of electrical tape to save money on bolts. All I know for sure is that the seats aren't stock (the guy had back issues and had to sell it after the new seats didn't help) and I can most definitely hit my head on the back of the rollbar such that it's a guaranteed fatality if I ever manage to roll the car. My last thought as the back of my skull caves in will probably be something along the lines of "damnit! I knew I should have gotten around to throwing some padding on the headrest in case this happened". If you know anything about what I need to look for to identify it, I can go out and check tomorrow.
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Mar 26, 2014 08:11
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It looks like my HardDog1 bar. The stock NA seats I have go under them, it's just that my head does not 
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Mar 26, 2014 08:20
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Harmburger posted:How is the Roadstersport Race at highway(70-80mph) speeds as compared to stock? I like the sound, but I don't want cruising to be a pain due to it. Cruising is glorious, only a hair louder than stock when you aren't goosing it. Have not put in the baffle. As PeterWeller said earlier in the thread, it's the missing piece on the MX-5. Still haven't turned the radio back on. GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Mar 26, 2014 |
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Mar 26, 2014 17:19
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dpidz0r posted:I have no idea what the rollbar is, but it was put in by the previous owner If you're not racing or auto Xing it I'd remove it if I were you. You don't need the extra weight or your head cracking like a melon if you get into an accident. Sell it and use the money to buy a new top. As far as the top, I'd stay tan to match the interior. Topsonline.com has the best prices on Robbins tops.
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Mar 26, 2014 17:28
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leica posted:If you're not racing or auto Xing it I'd remove it if I were you.
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Mar 26, 2014 22:41
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destructo posted:Uh, I think you _would_ want to remove it if you were autocrossing. What? Um, no? A proper rollbar with a proper install (that is a proper rollbar but of course no idea about the install) will add stiffness worth any weight penalty. leica posted:If you're not racing or auto Xing it I'd remove it if I were you. You don't need the extra weight or your head cracking like a melon if you get into an accident. Sell it and use the money to buy a new top. What about all of us AutoXers who do double duty (AutoX+DD)? I just wrapped mine with rollbar padding.
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Mar 26, 2014 22:51
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I just run a bucket seat. The back is tall enough that my head can't hit the bar. The passenger is out of luck though.
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Mar 26, 2014 22:53
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Beach Bum posted:What? Um, no? A proper rollbar with a proper install (that is a proper rollbar but of course no idea about the install) will add stiffness worth any weight penalty.
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Mar 27, 2014 00:45
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So uh, what would be the point of tinting a Miata's windows? I've been asked by three friends when I'm going to have them tinted. Another question, would the BOSE headunit in my Miata have the same rear inputs as the one in my MS6?
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Mar 27, 2014 00:49
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Protect the interior from some UV damage, cooler in-cabin traveling, etc?
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Mar 27, 2014 01:16
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Phone posted:Protect the interior from some UV damage, cooler in-cabin traveling, etc? Yeah but in a convertible?
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Mar 27, 2014 01:19
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Rhyno's gonna get skin cancer.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:27
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Rhyno posted:Yeah but in a convertible?
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Mar 27, 2014 01:28
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Man, Koyos are expensive. Are there any aluminum rads that aren't Mishimoto? Otherwise I might see if an OEM one is cheaper. e: Nope, Koyos are cheaper than OEM.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:31
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destructo posted:Why have windows or a top at all right? I just don't see the point in an open top car.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Man, Koyos are expensive. Are there any aluminum rads that aren't Mishimoto? Otherwise I might see if an OEM one is cheaper. Trackspeed Engineering. Don't grab an OEM one, just buy whatever off of RockAuto.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:39
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destructo posted:Nope. Show me an STS or CSP Miata at Nationals with a rollbar and I'll show you a losing car. Back to the bench racing board. I never really looked, to be honest. But, I'll be damned, John Brown and DiSimo (my personal favorite) both have no rollbar (1 & 2 at the Dixie Tour this year). Thanks  That was a hard loss for Darrin, too. Going into Day 2 with 6/10ths on Brown only to have Brown put down a scorching 43.9 on his second run. In other news, I finally got the whole drat thing buttoned back together after the timing belt broke two weeks ago. It ended up being a cinch to remove the AC compressor and bracket just to get the bottom bolt on that water pump elbow in. However, when I was putting the underpanel back on I kept getting dripped on. The loving brand-spanking-new Koyo radiator I installed a mere two months ago has a rock ding on the lower driver's side corner. It never. loving. Stops. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Mar 27, 2014 |
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Mar 27, 2014 01:55
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Phone posted:Trackspeed Engineering. Good tip. Now all I have to do is figure out if VISTA-PRO is any good or if I should roll the dice with the Chinese funbag that VARIOUS MFR always represents.
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Mar 27, 2014 01:58
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Check amazon and my special favourite amazon warehouse.
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Mar 27, 2014 02:58
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iv46vi posted:Check amazon and my special favourite amazon warehouse. Nothing particularly great compared to RockAuto except for the mythical Sometimes-Its-A-Koyo TYC that might not ship until after I'm doing the US trip. Never knew about Amazon Warehouse. Wonder what other scratch and dent crap I can get.
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Mar 27, 2014 03:22
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Beach Bum posted:I never really looked, to be honest. But, I'll be damned, John Brown and DiSimo (my personal favorite) both have no rollbar (1 & 2 at the Dixie Tour this year). Thanks . Turbo means I don't care about weight but I'll never be competitive, especially since the local club in MN is pretty drat talented. You'll always bend a radiator fin. Can't win that one
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Mar 27, 2014 03:53
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destructo posted:Uh, I think you _would_ want to remove it if you were autocrossing. I thought it was required for some reason.....One less thing I need then!
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Mar 27, 2014 06:06
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destructo posted:You'll always bend a radiator fin. Can't win that one Yeah but it's leaking. 
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Mar 27, 2014 06:31
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So I want to get back into a Miata, and am planning on budgeting a FM VoodooII into the money I set aside. Is there any benefit to a year range outside of the 1.8s making more power than the 1.6s? I'm not really picky between NAs or NBs, but would probably want an NA because that's what I had before. I have any amount of time to wait until the right one comes up, so I'll wait for the right one if theres any benefits.
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Mar 27, 2014 15:31
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Depends on how much power you're looking at making. I would suggest an NB2 for a newer car and more area under the curve + flatter, but it's 10:1.
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Mar 27, 2014 15:40
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I'm not looking to make a ton of power. 150-175whp would be plenty, and should be really reliable still. I think a later NB would be out of what I want to spend, but I would if the right car came around.
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Mar 27, 2014 15:48
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:I'm not looking to make a ton of power. 150-175whp would be plenty, and should be really reliable still.
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Mar 27, 2014 22:12
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:So I want to get back into a Miata, and am planning on budgeting a FM VoodooII into the money I set aside. Is there any benefit to a year range outside of the 1.8s making more power than the 1.6s? You should be able to find a nice 1.8 NA cheaper by a good margin than any NB in good condition, so it depends on your budget. To me NB's aren't worth the extra money they command when you can find low mileage, good condition late model NA's with a little patience for a few grand less. The 1.8 NA's are just better cars overall than a 1.6, don't get a 1.6 if you don't have to.
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Mar 27, 2014 22:47
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:So I want to get back into a Miata, and am planning on budgeting a FM VoodooII into the money I set aside. Is there any benefit to a year range outside of the 1.8s making more power than the 1.6s? 94-95 1.8s are OBD1, so I think the emissions system is simpler. Might be easier for turbo. If you're in California or another CARB-type state, you might want to see what years have smog-legal turbo kits available (Bell Enginering makes some) leica posted:You should be able to find a nice 1.8 NA cheaper by a good margin than any NB in good condition, I haven't found this to be true at all. Nice 1.8 NAs seem to be going for the same or more than reasonable 99-00 NBs (in the Bay Area at least).
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Mar 27, 2014 23:09
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leica posted:You should be able to find a nice 1.8 NA cheaper by a good margin than any NB in good condition, so it depends on your budget. To me NB's aren't worth the extra money they command when you can find low mileage, good condition late model NA's with a little patience for a few grand less.
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Mar 27, 2014 23:16
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Well it's true here in Florida so YMMV I guess. I keep forgetting how the Miata market varies all over the country. I'd still rather have an NA because they look better imo.
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Mar 28, 2014 00:10
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Just had the Goodwin Racing Roadstersport 3 catback installed on my '91. I like it a lot. It sounds essentially stock with the baffle in, but with the baffle out, it sounds only a little deeper than stock until you give it a bootful. It doesn't drone at all on the interstate with the baffle in or out, so I don't think I'll be reinstalling the baffle any time soon. I do wish it was a little more loud/rorty at full chat, but overall I am well pleased. Cost me a little over $500 installed.
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Mar 28, 2014 23:58
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