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sanchez
Feb 26, 2003
I bought an '11 328 with 10k on it about 18 months ago. It has 45k on it now and has been solid, the only major issue I've had with it was actually caused by the dealer, they managed to fry the BCM while doing the battery cable recall which resulted in a bunch of extra dealer visits until eventually it was replaced. The only common issue I've really heard about on these cars is the electric water pump dying around 60-80k. A car with 30-40k like you're looking at will be under warranty and maintenance coverage until 50k. Until 50k you do have the option to add further warranty coverage through BMW to take it up to 100k, it'll cost $2-3k depending on plan level.

Routine maintenance isn't bad at all if you can DIY or have a decent independent shop to take it to.

I still love driving the car, compared to anything I've owned before the stability and comfort at high speed is amazing. My only regret is not more carefully considering a 335 instead.

Edit: When comparing cars, don't assume anything is standard, including bluetooth or folding rear seats.

sanchez fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Mar 29, 2014

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BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
Also, the E90s (the model year you are looking at) are still to new to really see what the true issues are, besides the electric water pump. But a majority of the electronics are based off the E60 (5 series) which are pretty excellent.

No, these are not late 90-early 2000 Honda's where you can just throw gas, oil and watch it run for years. But the maintenance is not nearly that awful.

Honestly, the bad reputation that gets these cars is not taking care of them, along with people taking them to a regular car mechanic or the dealer. Yeah any Joe Mechanic can fix it, but a good independent euro mechanic will be much cheaper and more familiar with the cars. Not saying a regular guy can't do the work, its just usually they are not familiar with the "German" engineering (complicated) bullshit.

MrChips
Jun 10, 2005

FLIGHT SAFETY TIP: Fatties out first

MrChips posted:

Do any of you know if the wiper linkage in an E46 coupe is serviceable in any way? The linkage in my car has decided that now is a good time to stop working properly. The wipers still work (so it likely isn't the relay) but very slowly, sometimes stopping six or eight inches into the wipe, in cold weather. If I park the car in heated parking they work more or less at their normal speed with what appears to be a bit of binding at that six-eight inch point.

It isn't the battery/alternator producing low voltage either.

An update to this problem...

It seems as though the bolts holding the wiper linkage in place had worked loose, causing the whole thing to flop around. I tightened them back up and everything works as good as new now.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

sanchez posted:

I bought an '11 328 with 10k on it about 18 months ago. It has 45k on it now and has been solid, the only major issue I've had with it was actually caused by the dealer, they managed to fry the BCM while doing the battery cable recall which resulted in a bunch of extra dealer visits until eventually it was replaced. The only common issue I've really heard about on these cars is the electric water pump dying around 60-80k. A car with 30-40k like you're looking at will be under warranty and maintenance coverage until 50k. Until 50k you do have the option to add further warranty coverage through BMW to take it up to 100k, it'll cost $2-3k depending on plan level.

Routine maintenance isn't bad at all if you can DIY or have a decent independent shop to take it to.

I still love driving the car, compared to anything I've owned before the stability and comfort at high speed is amazing. My only regret is not more carefully considering a 335 instead.

Edit: When comparing cars, don't assume anything is standard, including bluetooth or folding rear seats.

Great feedback. I will have to take a look at the various models as I'm not terribly familiar with the differences. I'm not really concerned with great performance above the BMW standard but more the quality of the ride and features. I like the idea of nav for the display of radio and such despite going to probably use my smartphone for actual navigation. Bluetooth is important as is rear folding seats.

Good to hear about the maintenance and about what I had thought. Would probably consider an extended warranty. Should I stick with CPO for confidence?


BrokenKnucklez posted:

Also, the E90s (the model year you are looking at) are still to new to really see what the true issues are, besides the electric water pump. But a majority of the electronics are based off the E60 (5 series) which are pretty excellent.

No, these are not late 90-early 2000 Honda's where you can just throw gas, oil and watch it run for years. But the maintenance is not nearly that awful.

Honestly, the bad reputation that gets these cars is not taking care of them, along with people taking them to a regular car mechanic or the dealer. Yeah any Joe Mechanic can fix it, but a good independent euro mechanic will be much cheaper and more familiar with the cars. Not saying a regular guy can't do the work, its just usually they are not familiar with the "German" engineering (complicated) bullshit.

That is definitely one of the advantages of my Honda. Drop it off at the local shop and it's taken care of for basically free. That being said my gut tells me that with an extended warranty and a low mileage vehicle I would not be faced with anything extraordinary for years.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot

TraderStav posted:

I'm not really concerned with great performance above the BMW standard but more the quality of the ride and features. I like the idea of nav for the display of radio and such despite going to probably use my smartphone for actual navigation. Bluetooth is important as is rear folding seats.

That is definitely one of the advantages of my Honda. Drop it off at the local shop and it's taken care of for basically free. That being said my gut tells me that with an extended warranty and a low mileage vehicle I would not be faced with anything extraordinary for years.

If you really want something a little nicer but a little easier to take care of, look to Acura. Not saying that you shouldn't look at a BMW, but keep in mind, that poo poo does cost a little more on any luxury car, Acura, BMW, etc. And if anything on the suspension is slight lout of whack on a BMW, they drive like dog poo poo.

With that being said, the auto box ZF behind the motor is pretty decent, the strait 6 is a good motor-as long as you take care of it decently, and the rest of the car is actually a pretty solid ride. But they are still to new to actually determine what the long term issues are.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

aventari posted:

So I got this 98 M3 for $700




It was cheap because of it's possible bent frame and a blown headgasket. It shoots steam from the exhaust whenever it runs.

I had the frame checked and fixed at the local frame shop, apparently the upper strut mounts and made of playdoh and bend at the slightest provocation. That was $1000.

I'm pulling the head now to fix the head gasket and have the head checked.

Reading this Pelican article it looks like I need a bunch of special tools. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket.htm

Is there any tools I can do without? Anything else I need to know?

You'll want the VANOS tools for sure, it can be done without them but it is a PITA. Lots of places will rent them. They usually include the vanos wrench, cam locks, flywheel locking pin and upper chain tensioner locking pin. Fan clutch tools aren't really necessary, just get a 32mm wrench, a standard one WILL fit. Just remember it is left hand thread. If you're just doing the gasket you shouldn't need any of the valvespring tools. As usual check the head/block for flatness. For the exhaust manifold bolts I highly recommend a long handle 1/4" drive flex-head ratchet.

While you're doing the headgasket there is a bunch of other stuff you might want to do "while you're in there" if you intend to keep the car. VANOS seals at minimum, but the lower chain guides and upper tensioner are a good thing to replace. Chains if it's really high mileage. Also, check bimmerforums for DIYs - sometimes I find the pelican ones miss really key steps or gloss over things.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug

TraderStav posted:

Great feedback. I will have to take a look at the various models as I'm not terribly familiar with the differences. I'm not really concerned with great performance above the BMW standard but more the quality of the ride and features. I like the idea of nav for the display of radio and such despite going to probably use my smartphone for actual navigation. Bluetooth is important as is rear folding seats.

Good to hear about the maintenance and about what I had thought. Would probably consider an extended warranty. Should I stick with CPO for confidence?


That is definitely one of the advantages of my Honda. Drop it off at the local shop and it's taken care of for basically free. That being said my gut tells me that with an extended warranty and a low mileage vehicle I would not be faced with anything extraordinary for years.

I picked up a loaded Non-CPO 2011 335 with 20k miles back in December for $30k that was sitting at a Chevy dealer in Napa, CA. My local BMW dealer will still cover maintenance and warranty until 50k and completed the battery recall and $99 oil change (ask for discounts on this type of poo poo they always have "coupons" available). Don't worry about finding a CPO, just have a PPI on whatever car you target completed and budget accordingly for keeping it alive past warranty. Based on what I have seen on the E90 boards the 335's start increasing in cost/risk over 80k miles but the 328's are less costly long term. Make sure to understand the options available on these cars, I had to look all over the place and end up in a godddammmned jet black car (again) just to find a non-Xi with fold down rear seats.

*sigh* and still nobody wants to buy my 2013 F10 535 M-sport MANUAL TRANSMISSION with 5k miles on it that has been for sale since December. All talk no walk with MT "demanders" on the interwebs out there. Meh.

Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Mar 29, 2014

Stardotstar
Jun 2, 2012

aventari posted:

So I got this 98 M3 for $700




It was cheap because of it's possible bent frame and a blown headgasket. It shoots steam from the exhaust whenever it runs.

I had the frame checked and fixed at the local frame shop, apparently the upper strut mounts and made of playdoh and bend at the slightest provocation. That was $1000.

I'm pulling the head now to fix the head gasket and have the head checked.

Reading this Pelican article it looks like I need a bunch of special tools. http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket.htm

Is there any tools I can do without? Anything else I need to know?

Great find, I would highly encourage you to get the head at least hot tanked and decked while you have it off. The small boost in compression is worth like 1hp, but cleaning the valves and seats can significantly improve your power output.

gigButt
Oct 22, 2008
Holy 135i brake dust Batman. Can anyone recommend a good set of pads or any other possible solutions?

For those of you without bluetooth and with an aux in the kinivo BTC450 Device is fantastic. I am using it with an iPhone 4s and it streams near cd quality music with ease.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
clean the hell out of and then Opticoat your rims, they will at least be easier to keep clean regardless of what pads you end up in. I really liked the BavAuto Pagid Reds that I had on my E46, great bite and minimal dust.

Viper_3000
Apr 26, 2005

I could give a shit about all that.

TraderStav posted:

Great feedback. I will have to take a look at the various models as I'm not terribly familiar with the differences. I'm not really concerned with great performance above the BMW standard but more the quality of the ride and features. I like the idea of nav for the display of radio and such despite going to probably use my smartphone for actual navigation. Bluetooth is important as is rear folding seats.

Good to hear about the maintenance and about what I had thought. Would probably consider an extended warranty. Should I stick with CPO for confidence?

I was going to chime in but it seems like others have put you on the right track as far as getting one with a warranty.

I'd honestly just double whatever your maintenance budget is, and that's generally a decent approximation of what it'll cost. Labor rates are more, parts like rotors and pads are more, tires are generally bigger/thinner and cost more, and the e46 at least takes 7 quarts of synthetic oil...so no $30 jiffy lube specials anymore. They're more expensive to operate in general, as they demand preventative maintenance, but they're also a hell of a lot more fun to drive.

S.W.G.
Jul 8, 2004
Its been 3 months since I bought the 335i. Since then I've put on a JB4, intakes, and downpipes. I've been playing around and dipping my toe in the e85 pool.

Holy poo poo.

When I bought the 335i I figured it would be a decently peppy, comfortable/sporty ride. I didn't think it could be such a monster. I'm currently on a 60/40 split 91/e85 mix and Map 5 (autotune). It's stupid fast. I lose traction in 3rd gear from a roll (and I'm a @ 5200ft altitude!) - I've never had such a deceivingly fast car before.

Everything you ever read about fuel pumps, injectors, turbos, vanos solenoids etc: ignore it. Buy an inverse torx set and buy this loving car. I've spent less than $1000 on mods and my butt dyno says I'm kissing 400 WHP uncorrected. I'm making a dyno appointment just for my own personal edification :) I was prepared to drop 10k into my STI for the same level of power, and the biggest difference being that it's EASY to do.

It's been about 10 years since I've had a daily "slushbox" car, and I can honestly say that I have not missed having a 3rd pedal in the slightest.

If you're on the fence, buy one.

S.W.G. fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Mar 29, 2014

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

TraderStav posted:

Great feedback. I will have to take a look at the various models as I'm not terribly familiar with the differences. I'm not really concerned with great performance above the BMW standard but more the quality of the ride and features.

Honestly I think you'd be better off just getting an Acura or Lexus if you don't care about sportiness much. BMW is at their best when making sporty models, other companies do luxury, comfort, and gadgets better. If you really want something plush, get a later model (2010 or newer) Merc.

TRANS AM 20000
Apr 17, 2010


Time to punch it!

I hope a crosspost is okay; I've put this in the March Chat thread, but maybe one of you might know of more specific problem pertaining to this model:

I was changing the sparkplugs on my 2006 E90 325i, and when I took out the coils to get to the plugs, the first one was just a little dirty (probably dried up grease that accumulated, not a big deal), but the second and third cylinder plugs were practically swimming in oil. The oil seems to be both on the top AND the bottom of the plugs.

I'm still in the process of changing the last three, but is this a sign of a worn valve cover gasket? Or do I have more serious problems?

I haven't noticed any major changes in the way the vehicle handles, and I haven't noticed any blue smoke coming from the exhaust - if I hadn't been doing the plugs today, I probably wouldn't have even known this was happening.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

HotCanadianChick posted:

Honestly I think you'd be better off just getting an Acura or Lexus if you don't care about sportiness much. BMW is at their best when making sporty models, other companies do luxury, comfort, and gadgets better. If you really want something plush, get a later model (2010 or newer) Merc.

I will check them out as well, but I should have been more clear. I didn't need much sportier than what a BMW already is. I love the sporty nature of them but at this point don't need to go with larger engines or other things to improve on it.

awesome-express
Dec 30, 2008

So I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask this in, but anyhow. I've amassed a decent amount of money, and wouldn't mind splurging a bit of that on a nice ride. I'm still toying around with the idea, but my choice of vehicle has come down to the following (used of course):

- e92 coupe
- w204 sedan
- a5 coupe

I've previously owned a w202, e34 and an e39, with the e39 needing the most work (I didn't get it for cheap either). Now I'm not sure how mechanically sound those cars in the list are, and would love for AI to weigh in. I'm in the UK, so I won't be getting anything larger than a 3.0. So AI, which of those three is the most fun and solid to drive, without having to spend gorillions on maintenance? I'm leaning towards the e92, but would love to hear from anyone with previous experience with that particular bimmer. Oh and it would deffo have to be an automatic, driving stick in London is the opposite of fun.

SlapActionJackson
Jul 27, 2006

ausgezeichnet posted:

Ima have to find 10W60 oil somewhere.

Just buy it from the dealer. I haven't found a better or cheaper source once you factor in the BMWCCA discount.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

TraderStav posted:

I will check them out as well, but I should have been more clear. I didn't need much sportier than what a BMW already is. I love the sporty nature of them but at this point don't need to go with larger engines or other things to improve on it.

The N52 (non turbo) E90 is pretty solid. Water pump isn't really an issue until 100k or so, and being on my second one, I haven't noticed any other issues. While oil change and brake service components cost a bit more, I'd say it's easier to do than my old Celica. If you buy one off lease, the only thing I'd suggest "out of the gate" is getting the coolant and brake fluid changed, and they don't get changed beforehand.



awesome-express posted:

So I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask this in, but anyhow. I've amassed a decent amount of money, and wouldn't mind splurging a bit of that on a nice ride. I'm still toying around with the idea, but my choice of vehicle has come down to the following (used of course):

- e92 coupe
- w204 sedan
- a5 coupe

I've previously owned a w202, e34 and an e39, with the e39 needing the most work (I didn't get it for cheap either). Now I'm not sure how mechanically sound those cars in the list are, and would love for AI to weigh in. I'm in the UK, so I won't be getting anything larger than a 3.0. So AI, which of those three is the most fun and solid to drive, without having to spend gorillions on maintenance? I'm leaning towards the e92, but would love to hear from anyone with previous experience with that particular bimmer. Oh and it would deffo have to be an automatic, driving stick in London is the opposite of fun.

The auto on the E90 isn't great. It's okay, but drive it to make sure it works with your driving style. The new 8 speed autos on the F30 models is supposed to be really great. If you look at an F30, you can mostly disregard what I said above, as that's an entirely different engine. The only thing I don't like about the E92 (my Dad has one) is the seat belt helping arm. The belts are a bit too far back to reach easily, so they added this helping arm which is a bit awkward. Particularly when it misses.



On both E90s, I've really only had to do oil and brakes up to 100k, at which point I also did spark plugs, and thought about doing the water pump, but sold that car. I've had a couple of one off issues - seat occupancy sensor, and pot hole taking out a xenon, but nothing extreme. I guess getting the dealer to replace and reprogram the battery for $300ish is annoying, but that's a 4-5 year thing.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down
Let's talk tires. If I pick up an 11 or so 328 will I need to get a set of winter tires or do they come with some form of all seasons? I'm in Michigan so performance tires will not work all year round. I keep seeing comments about the run flats on bmw, does that mean that tire replacement or getting a winter set becomes much higher cost than it normally would? Just looking to put all the information together so I don't make a dumb poo poo decision.

Also, I saw the option for the BMW select financing and was curious if there was anything fundamentally unwise about going in that direction. I am a very tight budgeter so I wouldn't lose sight of the ballon at the end but would appreciate a little payment relief while I collect a few annual bonuses and pay increases. I'd likely pay it off prior to the balloon comes due anyway. With .9% interest I would have to think the only way to get screwed is in the residuals calculation but doesn't that only determine the actual ballon payment so my increased costs would simply be the interest on that. Appreciate any feedback!

voltron
Nov 26, 2000
Zapf gave me this account because he's a friend of the Indian-American people.

SlapActionJackson posted:

Just buy it from the dealer. I haven't found a better or cheaper source once you factor in the BMWCCA discount.

What's the price at a dealership with a CCA discount?

I usually pick up parts at great prices from The BMW Parts Store:
http://www.thebmwpartstore.com/oemparts/bmw-113/07%2051%200%20009%20420-07%2051%200%20009%20420-07%2051%200%20009%20420.html

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

TraderStav posted:

Let's talk tires. If I pick up an 11 or so 328 will I need to get a set of winter tires or do they come with some form of all seasons? I'm in Michigan so performance tires will not work all year round. I keep seeing comments about the run flats on bmw, does that mean that tire replacement or getting a winter set becomes much higher cost than it normally would? Just looking to put all the information together so I don't make a dumb poo poo decision.

Also, I saw the option for the BMW select financing and was curious if there was anything fundamentally unwise about going in that direction. I am a very tight budgeter so I wouldn't lose sight of the ballon at the end but would appreciate a little payment relief while I collect a few annual bonuses and pay increases. I'd likely pay it off prior to the balloon comes due anyway. With .9% interest I would have to think the only way to get screwed is in the residuals calculation but doesn't that only determine the actual ballon payment so my increased costs would simply be the interest on that. Appreciate any feedback!

My Dad just uses all seasons on his in Vermont, but he has a Suburban with snows to fall back on. I run summers on mine, and then bought a set of snows. My summers are 17", and I downsized with correct proportions to 16" and got a set of Blizzaks. I chose not to buy a second set of pressure monitors, and just check the pressure periodically. You can get pretty good deals on TireRack. You don't have to buy runflats, I tend not to, you're just a bit more stuck if there's a problem since there isn't a spare. I think the cheap rims were like $99 each, plus whatever for tires. Unless you do a LOT of driving, you'll get like three years out of a set of winters, I usually do.

I've used BMW financing, and they're pretty awesome to deal with. Their call center is in Ohio, and any time I've needed paperwork (moving to PA), they're really helpful and prompt. I didn't do balloon financing though, just regular or whatever.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

Alarbus posted:

My Dad just uses all seasons on his in Vermont, but he has a Suburban with snows to fall back on. I run summers on mine, and then bought a set of snows. My summers are 17", and I downsized with correct proportions to 16" and got a set of Blizzaks. I chose not to buy a second set of pressure monitors, and just check the pressure periodically. You can get pretty good deals on TireRack. You don't have to buy runflats, I tend not to, you're just a bit more stuck if there's a problem since there isn't a spare. I think the cheap rims were like $99 each, plus whatever for tires. Unless you do a LOT of driving, you'll get like three years out of a set of winters, I usually do.

I've used BMW financing, and they're pretty awesome to deal with. Their call center is in Ohio, and any time I've needed paperwork (moving to PA), they're really helpful and prompt. I didn't do balloon financing though, just regular or whatever.

But unless the previous owner put all seasons on I should assume they're summers?

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
I left my E36 at my parents this winter without a tender on it for about 4 months. It's stock and has a BMW two bottom alarm that was never armed for the duration of the slumber.

Should I try and start it? Or just go straight for a booster pack?

I don't want to have to gently caress with EWSII weirdness. And a friend said he flooded his E36 325i trying to attempt a low battery start. :what:

Ziploc fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Mar 30, 2014

Viper_3000
Apr 26, 2005

I could give a shit about all that.

TraderStav posted:

But unless the previous owner put all seasons on I should assume they're summers?

Just look up the tires that are on there. More than likely at that mileage they've been replaced or are in need of replacing soon.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

Ziploc posted:

I left my E36 at my parents this winter without a tender on it for about 4 months. It's stock and has a BMW two bottom alarm that was never armed for the duration of the slumber.

Should I try and start it? Or just go straight for a booster pack?

I don't want to have to gently caress with EWSII weirdness. And a friend said he flooded his E36 325i trying to attempt a low battery start. :what:

I left a 330i for 6 months and it still started, and I'll probably start my M3 without a boost in the summer but I leave the battery disconnected so I don't drain it while leaving the doors open.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
Well, it took three 'boosts' from a plug in jumper pack. But it sprang to life.

Drove it around a bit. I need to go through the service records, but the PO said BMW OEM shocks were put in in the last few years. But the front shocks feel quite soft. Is that a thing with E36 M3s?

I managed to do the 'carnami code' and program my other fob. But it still won't actually do anything to the car. The car will register it (status light goes off when in learning mode) but it won't arm/disarm after.

Coming from a Miata with no anti squat/dive geometry, the suspension in the E36 feels... weird. The spring up effect after a panic stop is pretty odd feeling.

Party Alarm
May 10, 2012



A pretty special motor for something non-M related!

Stardotstar
Jun 2, 2012

Party Alarm posted:

A pretty special motor for something non-M related!
Some googling reveals that it's the aluminum block M52 out of the Z3. Nice find!

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

TraderStav posted:

But unless the previous owner put all seasons on I should assume they're summers?

From the factory they probably had runflat all seasons.

TraderStav
May 19, 2006

It feels like I was standing my entire life and I just sat down

BraveUlysses posted:

From the factory they probably had runflat all seasons.

That's perfect. I see that regular all-seasons aren't that bad on Tirerack as they are only 17s, I am not seeing that as a material impact on my decision then whichever direction I go.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003
The new M3/M4 pricing and option sheets are out

http://www.bmwblog.com/2014/02/19/2015-bmw-m3-m4-pricing-guide-options-u-s/

Some interesting choices, Nav is standard but an automatic transmission is $2900.

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
Austin Yellow Metallic? What in Austin is yellow?

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002

Cojawfee posted:

Austin Yellow Metallic? What in Austin is yellow?

The water? :rimshot:

Viper_3000
Apr 26, 2005

I could give a shit about all that.

Cojawfee posted:

Austin Yellow Metallic? What in Austin is yellow?

Austin is the capital of Texas which is known for yellow roses.

That's all I can come up with.

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007
Maybe it isn't referring to Austin, TX?

MrChips
Jun 10, 2005

FLIGHT SAFETY TIP: Fatties out first

Kenshin posted:

Maybe it isn't referring to Austin, TX?

It does. Many of the M4/M4's exterior colours have names referring to F1 tracks; Sakhir (Bahrain), Yas Marina (Abu Dhabi), Silverstone and Austin...it would have been a bit strange calling it Circuit of the Americas Yellow after all.

That said, they should have just called it Phoenix Yellow :getin:

Viper_3000
Apr 26, 2005

I could give a shit about all that.

MrChips posted:

It does. Many of the M4/M4's exterior colours have names referring to F1 tracks; Sakhir (Bahrain), Yas Marina (Abu Dhabi), Silverstone and Austin...it would have been a bit strange calling it Circuit of the Americas Yellow after all.

I still miss Laguna Seca Blue.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Remember for an extra $5k you can have it painted any color you want (with BMW approval).

There are Imola Red and Santorini Blue 535's bumping around Bimmerfestpost forums.

Santorini Blue:



Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 1, 2014

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
And we cannot ever forget estoril

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Cojawfee posted:

Austin Yellow Metallic? What in Austin is yellow?

The grass, the trees, the water for about 11 months out of the year

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