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You can buy a whole front leg for not very much money, or a whole front quarter if both are just as bad. Im not sure how far back they go on the bottom though - you might have to extend it. I put one leg on mine 10 years ago and patched the other. All the rust I am fighting now is right behind it. Wish I had done the whole front quarter while I had it apart.
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Mar 30, 2014 14:44
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Jesus christ, if that is any indication of what the inside of the rest looks like, and how close behind it is in failing, I would be looking for a repro frame right now.
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Mar 30, 2014 14:57
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Cakefool posted:One of my contractors rolled to work in a v6 tdi vs phaeton recently, he bought it from his neighbor who panicked when he started hearing about the maintenance horror stories & sold it for £18k with 20k on the clock. It's beautiful, so of course we rib him about it being a nice passat. I tell all of my VAG-driving coworkers that they have nice Jettas.
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Mar 30, 2014 15:30
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Tomarse posted:You can buy a whole front leg for not very much money, or a whole front quarter if both are just as bad. Not sure how it's managed to do that. Parked facing downhill a lot, with water pooling up in the dead-end of the box section? I would have though the hangers would have been well eaten into. It's also the military chassis, which makes it harder to get the "right" front section for. kastein posted:Jesus christ, if that is any indication of what the inside of the rest looks like, and how close behind it is in failing, I would be looking for a repro frame right now. Edit: The doors which I bought (for Ģ1 each) may contain a slight trace of filler. Still better than the ones on the Landie as it stands, though.  And a 1" diameter bogie of silicone sealant for some reason.  Edit the second: Ordered some new front dumbirons, and a rear crossmember while I was at it (we all know it's going to be crusty). From Paddock's, and suspiciously cheap, so I guess I'll just have to see what they're like when they get here. May be time to rekindle a thread for this nonsense, even. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Mar 30, 2014 |
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Mar 30, 2014 18:46
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InitialDave posted:It's the upper part of the dumbiron that's ropey, strangely the spring hangers and the metal connecting them seems almost untouched by corrosion. I was intending to make use of this to make my life easier in terms of preserving the alignment, by filleting out all the crap in the middle and replacing it with a section taken from an off-the-shelf assembly. You can sufficiently 'preserve the alignment' using a simple wooden jig and a tape measure  - so don't let that stop you cutting the whole thing off if you need to.They all rot like that. Don't be afraid of drilling extra drain holes in the new bits so you can properly waxoyl it after fitting and keep it from accumulating mud. My replacement rear x-member came with some sections which were far too well sealed and have trapped crud. Ken - there is plenty of life left in this chassis yet! When you do start feeling flush you should be able to do a new galv one for under Ģ1500 if you shop around (or this used to be the case when I was last looking) Less if you buy a slightly second hand one or failed project off eBay.
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Mar 31, 2014 00:44
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Roommate had a flat tire, so I got to use the new HF 1/2" ratchet. It worked, even stood up to me jumping on it and using the hammer on it. Also found the Craftsman, it was in her trunk from last time we changed a tire. She has those loving security lugnuts, and the one on the wheel to be changed broke. I would post a picture of the broken bit, but, um, measures were taken. With the 4-pound hammer.  I wonder if Sears will replace that? If not, roomie owes me a 19mm socket.  Here's the broken bit:  edit: kinda want to drill through the lugnut and build an LED flashlight in it. Button in the threaded end, light in the drive hole. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Mar 31, 2014 |
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Mar 31, 2014 02:43
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Tomarse posted:You can sufficiently 'preserve the alignment' using a simple wooden jig and a tape measure quote:Don't be afraid of drilling extra drain holes in the new bits so you can properly waxoyl it after fitting and keep it from accumulating mud. My replacement rear x-member came with some sections which were far too well sealed and have trapped crud. quote:When you do start feeling flush you should be able to do a new galv one for under Ģ1500 if you shop around (or this used to be the case when I was last looking) Less if you buy a slightly second hand one or failed project off eBay.  action on that front.
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Mar 31, 2014 05:42
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Seat Safety Switch posted:While it may be a discussion for the tools thread, tell me about these ratcheting wrenches because I've never seen them and my name-brand gearwrenches are frequently considered "too nice" for me to use effectively. You should never, ever consider gearwrenches too nice to use. I have a set of their ratcheting ones that I use when I'm at sea, and I could not be happier with them. I don't know what they made those ratcheting mechanisms out of, but they just will not quit.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:02
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FWIW I use ratcheting spanners at work, often underwater (freshwater) and I get 6-12 months out of them before they seize / break. But that's cheap no name ones with zero maintenance, put away wet and left to rust etc.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:15
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I've done some brutal hammering on HF ratcheting wrenches, I imagine that tools attempting to have a quality reputation are going to be crazy strong.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:16
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Well, I hooked a bit of pipe (two feet probably) over the 19" and my 100kg rear end was jumping on it, and the drat thing just held. Never been so impressed by a tool in my life.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:27
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Two Finger posted:You should never, ever consider gearwrenches too nice to use. I have a set of their ratcheting ones that I use when I'm at sea, and I could not be happier with them. I don't know what they made those ratcheting mechanisms out of, but they just will not quit. I broke a 14mm but it was kinda my fault, it involved a 4lb hammer and a very stuck bolt. Also broke a 15mm, but it was one I found on the ground in the junkyard, so I have no idea what the previous owner did to it... and my 18mm is starting to jump out of gear, but it's been used on some rather large, rather tight, loctited bolts. All real gearwrench brand. On the plus side, Sears warranties Gearwrench in-store now (after only a few years of refusing to even though the gearwrench website says to bring it back to the retailer you bought it at) and there's one between my house and the junkyard, so I can usually get them replaced on the way there or on the way home. I just keep forgetting to have these ones replaced, really.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:49
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On the topic of toolchat, has anyone tried the open-ended ratchet spanners? http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85597-12-Piece-Metric-Ratcheting/dp/B003WFSK48 I want some but I'm hesitant to fork out for something I'm not gonna use much beyond a 'look how loving cool this is' since my ring spanners do the job most of the time.
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Mar 31, 2014 14:57
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Two Finger posted:On the topic of toolchat, has anyone tried the open-ended ratchet spanners? Yes, I have one, its great for tight spaces.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:11
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That's what everyone has been talking about. I wouldn't have them for my only set of wrenches, but I also wouldn't want to live without them anymore. They are the right tool sometimes. In fact, I want to pick up a stubby set next.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:12
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I've used them... don't know that I'd spend money on them, but they can be nice. Especially if the bolts aren't rusty. When stuff is rusted so bad that a 9/16" fits where a 5/8" was supposed to, they don't grip so well.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:14
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kastein posted:I've used them... don't know that I'd spend money on them, but they can be nice. Especially if the bolts aren't rusty. Stop parking your poo poo in the ocean, seriously.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:29
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Gear wrenches are great when the nut is already free spinning and needs to go on or off. If you need to break stuff loose or get a nut off through a pile of rust smegma threads, then you need to use a regular wrench to save the gearing in the gear wrench head.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:32
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Slow is Fast posted:Gear wrenches are great when the nut is already free spinning and needs to go on or off. If you need to break stuff loose or get a nut off through a pile of rust smegma threads, then you need to use a regular wrench to save the gearing in the gear wrench head. Definitely. But when you break that bastard bolt or nut free that only allows 30 degrees of wrench turning you slap a gear wrench on and are happy you've got them.
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Mar 31, 2014 15:40
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So the tool recommendation that started the Harbor Freight tools discussion held up for the job it was needed for. Thanks for the pointer, LloydDobler! It lifted the engine 3 inches, just enough for the oil pan to clear the crossmember. Now it'll go in the corner of the garage to rust for years. Like any HF tool does.  Crank and such look pretty good for a 53 year old engine. We filtered the oil and found no metal. I looked at everything I could see and found no evidence of damage from the seized oil pump. It was seized hard. I understand why it twisted the pump drive shaft like it did. Installed a new high flow oil pump in preparation for later upgrades. The Bird is back together and driving like a dream. Kill-9 fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Mar 31, 2014 |
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Mar 31, 2014 16:05
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Gear wrenches are at the top of my "tools to buy" list. It seems like every time I'm working on a car there's that one bolt/nut that is too tight for a socket yet needs to spin off of 2 inches of thread and can only be turned a few degrees before re-seating the wrench. I'll probably go with HF ones for now since I need both metric and SAE, and it's usually worth testing the durability of the cheap stuff before sinking 10x as much into quality tools.
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Mar 31, 2014 16:09
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MrYenko posted:Stop parking your poo poo in the ocean, seriously. You'll have to talk to MassDOT about that, unfortunately. 20 years of road salt takes its toll. Hillridge posted:Gear wrenches are at the top of my "tools to buy" list. It seems like every time I'm working on a car there's that one bolt/nut that is too tight for a socket yet needs to spin off of 2 inches of thread and can only be turned a few degrees before re-seating the wrench. They routinely go on sale in sets at Sears. I think I paid $50 or $59 for each of my SAE and metric sets.
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Mar 31, 2014 16:24
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Kill-9 posted:
FYI: that D2TE casting number on the main caps indicates it's a 1972 casting. I used to have to eat, sleep, and breathe those old part numbers. EDIT: http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html
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Mar 31, 2014 16:55
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Slow is Fast posted:Gear wrenches are great when the nut is already free spinning and needs to go on or off. If you need to break stuff loose or get a nut off through a pile of rust smegma threads, then you need to use a regular wrench to save the gearing in the gear wrench head. Well, they do have lifetime warranties. when i finally broke one of them, sears or lowe's wanted me to return the entire set of wrenches so i got a whole new set for free. I prefer the flex head version.
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Mar 31, 2014 17:45
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Team140 posted:FYI: that D2TE casting number on the main caps indicates it's a 1972 casting. I used to have to eat, sleep, and breathe those old part numbers. Interesting. Thanks for the info. I've got no history on this car besides what I discover as I take it apart and put it back together. Ford didn't stamp engines back then it appears, so I have no way of even knowing if it's the original engine. It has had work done, obviously. It's got a Holley 4bbl fitted and the valve covers and filter aren't original.
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Mar 31, 2014 18:10
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Hillridge posted:Gear wrenches are at the top of my "tools to buy" list. It seems like every time I'm working on a car there's that one bolt/nut that is too tight for a socket yet needs to spin off of 2 inches of thread and can only be turned a few degrees before re-seating the wrench. I love the things but make sure you get ones that have a fixed direction. I had some cheaper ones with a switch to reverse which more than once snagged on things in tight areas, the feature is pretty useless to begin with since you just flip the wrench to reverse direction.
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Mar 31, 2014 18:45
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  Sunday, on the way from Aurora Colorado to Cheyenne Wyoming, two of my injection pump's timing gear bolts decided they had enough of life down home and decided to see what the great wide world had in store for them. One of them made it all the way out and is resting under the filler neck and the wire, the other is trapped between the filler neck and gear housing. The truck still drove to safety (my aunt's house a mile away) but isn't coming back under its own power in this condition. More pictures in a week or two when I bring it home.
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Mar 31, 2014 21:53
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Comma Chameleon posted:I love the things but make sure you get ones that have a fixed direction. I had some cheaper ones with a switch to reverse which more than once snagged on things in tight areas, the feature is pretty useless to begin with since you just flip the wrench to reverse direction. On the other hand, I've hosed myself over more than once working in tight quarters with a non reversible (all mine except one are non reversible...) gearwrench. Try to back a nut off of a stud and the stud seizes on, don't realize that it's going to paint you into a corner, back it out the rest of the way, now it's jammed against something and no room to get the drat wrench off... and no way to screw it back in since it's got a captive washer and a non reversible wrench... and you have 5 more of the same nuts/studs to remove before you can push things the other direction and get some clearance back. (anyone who owns a dodge, jeep, or chevy with a 6 bolt pattern New Venture Gear transfer case probably knows what I'm talking about now!) This is why I now own 3 9/16" gearwrenches  it does come in handy, but I never really wanted to own that many of one size.
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Mar 31, 2014 23:16
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My set with the little reversing lever is nice because it has a little flange(?) that keeps the wrench from falling off of the fastener.
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Apr 1, 2014 01:50
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What they could really use are some ultra low-profile gear wrenches. The ARP exhaust manifold studs on my car come with 10mmm 12-point nuts, so you can't use a box wrench on them like you could the similarly tight stock hardware, and on one of them there's just under 2mm clearance between the stud and the manifold when it's fully tightened down. I ended up having to take an already-thin distributor wrench, and then grind a notch into the face of the 12-point end so I could slip it between them and onto the stud. Hell, even an open-end 12 point wrench would be nice.
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Apr 1, 2014 03:45
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Gearwrench.com has a few 5-piece sets of ratcheting wrenches in the Hot Deals section for $12-$15. It's a good price to try them before you drop serious cash on a full set.
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Apr 1, 2014 04:01
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Although this might be some sort of demented fever dream, I could swear I saw a 'ratcheting open ended wrench' set at Canadian Tire over the weekend for super cheap. I'm not sure if it's a true gearwrench but that might also solve some of my headaches about not being able to fit the huge gearwrench head in places. edit: It exists! And it looks like it might be crap.
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Apr 1, 2014 04:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Although this might be some sort of demented fever dream, I could swear I saw a 'ratcheting open ended wrench' set at Canadian Tire over the weekend for super cheap. I'm not sure if it's a true gearwrench but that might also solve some of my headaches about not being able to fit the huge gearwrench head in places. It might as well be "rounding box end wrench" They're seriously garbage. They're also worse for tight spaces because you can't flip the wrench over and use the angle of the neck if you can't get a full 1/6 of a turn in.
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Apr 1, 2014 04:34
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Yea Ive had those ratcheting spanners since Craftsman came out with them a long rear end time ago and I think Ive used them about never times. The nice thing about the set I have is that the other end is a box and they are longer than a regular combo so there is more leverage for the box end when I use it.
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Apr 1, 2014 14:38
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Atmus posted:
Glad it didn't strand you, that loving sucks! Don't those bolts just hold the filler neck on? CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Apr 1, 2014 |
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Apr 1, 2014 14:41
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I have side job as a mechanic for my brotherīs shop that fixes earthmoving and heavy construction equipment, (my regular job is as a Firefighter) last week i was sent out to a site where they had a dozer that wasent dozing no more, a cat D6 with 10 000 hours over eight years, site foreman greats me with the following statement: "its been down on power since christmas, then it suddenly stopped, and we cant get the engine to turn over, and by the way, if you could check to see if we should swap fluids, the engine oil is original...." how they managed to keep it running (on four cylinders the last months if my guess is accurate) i dont know. ended up getting it transported to the shop and last i heard they are considering whether to swap engines or write the poor yellow guy off this is my first post in AI, if you guys want to i can try to document the lo-points when i go check out broken down stuff. we also regularly break tools that we are told are unbreakable when im at work at the fire station disclaimer, english is not my first language, not even my second
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Apr 1, 2014 17:18
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fjelltorsk posted:I have side job as a mechanic for my brotherīs shop that fixes earthmoving and heavy construction equipment, (my regular job is as a Firefighter) Got any good pictures?
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Apr 1, 2014 18:05
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CommieGIR posted:Glad it didn't strand you, that loving sucks! Don't those bolts just hold the filler neck on? No. The angles involved made it hard to get those pictures, but the bolts that came out were behind the filler neck, and hold the rotating assembly of the injection pump to the timing gear. All that kept the engine going was the possibly one remaining bolt and the alignment stud. One of the bolts that attaches the filler neck to the housing was still holding on, but the other one let go since the housing split at the bolt hole, and that might be what you were looking at. I'm about 99% sure I can drive the truck back home by taking the injection pump assembly off of my other F250 and cleaning everything real good and changing the oil, but I'm worried about metal slivers loving up some part of the lower engine. I'll probably do that but have another truck and trailer ready to tow it home.
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Apr 1, 2014 18:26
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CommieGIR posted:Got any good pictures? Iīll see if i wont pop by the shop while they are working on it, and will try to remember to bring my personal phone on sites so i can grab a few pics if anything postworthy comes up, both my jobs have had a very bad habit of making iphone screens into spiderwebs. sendt my brother a text to see if he cant get some pics of that poor poor caterpillar
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Apr 1, 2014 19:02
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I can't believe the drat things ran for 10k hrs and 8 years on original fluid.. that's really drat good.
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Apr 1, 2014 19:23
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