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 What is this called? It's a spade terminal link, but i can't find them under that name. I need them in various spade sizes and lengths.
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Apr 4, 2014 13:28
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dinozaur posted:I have used an inner tube patch with success. Just be sure to clean area with alcohol. If there is a large gouge it might be best to fill it with something such as the RTV first. Ah, good advice, thank you. I suppose I could just duct tape it, but these boots are drat important to me when I have to go pump 35 degree water out of my yard for days on end. Cakefool posted:
I've never seen multiples like that, but you can get huge assortments of Made In China terminals and splices for like 5 bucks.
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Apr 4, 2014 13:49
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There's nowhere to crimp a wire on to these, they're just for commoning up screw terminals where you need a dozen-odd power supplies coming off one rail. They're stamped steel pieces dipped in plastic/rubber, nice and simple but impossible to Google for.
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Apr 4, 2014 15:19
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Super Google protip: use Google Image Search, I swear to god. You Google words until you see a picture of the thing you want and the associated page will most likely be relevant and offer you a hint as to what terminology is appropriate. Re-GIS permutations until you just see pictures of the thing you want. I end up with Terminal Jumper Fork for that thing.
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Apr 4, 2014 15:32
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I think I went through terminal jumper fork hours ago  good tip though, that's my go to when words fail me.
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Apr 4, 2014 18:09
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Alterian posted:I have a crack in my fiberglass tub. The previous owners had (crappily) patched over it and the patch peeled off. What is the fastest way to fix the crack if I don't care what it looks like? There's no pieces of fiberglass missing, its just a thin line on the bottom of the tub about 3" long. I'll probably be replacing it in a few years so I don't really care if it looks nice. I just don't want it to leak down into my office below. Everything I've read on-line is how to fix it if you want it to look like its not there. I just want to do it in the fastest/easiest way I can and have it still be safe for my toddler to bathe in the tub. Can I just clean the area good and smear some J-B Weld on it? You can try that or you can try using one of those fiberglass pipe wraps they sell at home depot. Not 100% sure it will adhere to the tub but if it does 2-3 layers should give a good watertight seal.
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Apr 5, 2014 04:21
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I got a used battery operated swing for my baby. It takes 4 d batteries. Is there anyway to wire it or buy an adapter so I don't have to metro buying batteries?
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Apr 5, 2014 04:50
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Gothmog1065 posted:I got a used battery operated swing for my baby. It takes 4 d batteries. Is there anyway to wire it or buy an adapter so I don't have to metro buying batteries? You could use a 6 volt phone charger (120Vac to 6Vdc): http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Converter-Adapter-DC-6V-2A-Power-Supply-Charger-US-plug-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-2000mA-/151246506572 You would just have to remove the battery pack in the swing and wire it to the battery terminals or you could just get some rechargeable D cell batteries. It would be $20 for 4 batteries and I'm not sure what the charger would cost.
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Apr 5, 2014 05:36
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If you do, be careful about the current draw of the swing.
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Apr 5, 2014 16:38
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Gatla posted:You could use a 6 volt phone charger (120Vac to 6Vdc): He might not even have to do that. I would be surprised if that thing didn't have a DC barrel port on it for just running it. There might even be a label stating current draw and pin polarity.
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Apr 5, 2014 18:40
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Crappy chimney question: My house has had issues with water/moisture around the chimney for a while. I had a couple different companies out to fix it, they "sealed" it, put a proper cap on, checked the flashing was ok etc, but I swear there is still moisture coming in. You can smell it on a wet day when you turn on the gas fireplace. The chimney is large rocks like quartz etc with mortar surrounding a concrete block inner structure. I'm wondering if it could be the mortar is just too porous and lets in the moisture which then runs down the outside of the concrete block and gets into the wall of the house. Would a sensible fix be just rip off all the loving lovely stones on the outside of the blocks and re-cover it with something better like a proper membrane and then put something like cultured stone on it to make it look nice? Would that be crazy expensive?
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Apr 6, 2014 05:16
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priznat posted:but I swear there is still moisture coming in. You can smell it on a wet day when you turn on the gas fireplace. What does that mean? Because if you have any doubt about the contractors who have dealt with your chimney aren't giving it so ou straight step one is to NOT USE IT. Step 2 is to find a good contractor who will tell you how bad it really is. You can burn you house down because of this poo poo. I've been there to clean up too many times. (you chimney may be just fine, but we can't see it over the Internet so who knows?)
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Apr 6, 2014 05:25
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Sorry, it wasn't clear there.. The gas fireplace has its own ductwork going up through the originally wood burning chimney with an air intake and exhaust which are completely isolated and secure. The inside of the chimney is fine. My concern is on the outside which as I understand is cement block with the rocks and mortar just kind of slapped on the outside. My belief is that moisture makes its way thru the mortar and runs down the outside of the concrete block. Then when it goes into the roof the block is up against the interior wall space (insulation etc) and I'm worried about the moisture causing rot + mold etc.
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Apr 6, 2014 05:45
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priznat posted:Sorry, it wasn't clear there.. The gas fireplace has its own ductwork going up through the originally wood burning chimney with an air intake and exhaust which are completely isolated and secure. The inside of the chimney is fine. My concern is on the outside which as I understand is cement block with the rocks and mortar just kind of slapped on the outside. My belief is that moisture makes its way thru the mortar and runs down the outside of the concrete block. Then when it goes into the roof the block is up against the interior wall space (insulation etc) and I'm worried about the moisture causing rot + mold etc. If it was parged properly and is still in good condition this should not (can not) be happening. If it is in fact leaking it's through a damaged section which is likely at the top or where it meets with another surface like the roof (flashing damaged, poor drainage due to inadequate pitch, etc). Yes, some moisture (not running water) comes through parged or unparged block, but not much and nothing of concern. Basements are built with this stuff and often didn't even get so much as a waterproof coating "back in the day". These same basements are very often dry to this day (if the grading was done properly and the gutters are in good shape) even with all of the water from soil contact which is certainly a lot more water for a lot longer than a chimney should ever get.
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Apr 6, 2014 16:26
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What's the market for dirt? I've got a planter that's about 8x2x2 that I want gone but it's filled with dirt I don't really have room for. What are my options for getting rid of it?
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Apr 6, 2014 20:28
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asdf32 posted:What's the market for dirt? Craigslist?
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Apr 6, 2014 20:29
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priznat posted:Sorry, it wasn't clear there.. The gas fireplace has its own ductwork going up through the originally wood burning chimney with an air intake and exhaust which are completely isolated and secure. The inside of the chimney is fine. My concern is on the outside which as I understand is cement block with the rocks and mortar just kind of slapped on the outside. My belief is that moisture makes its way thru the mortar and runs down the outside of the concrete block. Then when it goes into the roof the block is up against the interior wall space (insulation etc) and I'm worried about the moisture causing rot + mold etc. Is this a guessing game, or do you plan to post pictures?
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Apr 6, 2014 20:53
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Has anyone used a storage unit as a workshop? I've been wanting a workshop so I can have a more permanent setup for my projects, like my 3D printer. A few storage unit websites mention workshops in their FAQ. I'm curious how it works out, and what the situation is for electricity. I don't think I've seen a power outlet in a normal storage unit.
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Apr 6, 2014 20:59
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Chainclaw posted:Has anyone used a storage unit as a workshop? I've been wanting a workshop so I can have a more permanent setup for my projects, like my 3D printer. A few storage unit websites mention workshops in their FAQ. I'm curious how it works out, and what the situation is for electricity. I don't think I've seen a power outlet in a normal storage unit. Typically you'd need to use the light socket for power. Not all places will welcome that, and good luck running anything more than 10-12 amps.
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Apr 6, 2014 21:01
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Chainclaw posted:Has anyone used a storage unit as a workshop? I've been wanting a workshop so I can have a more permanent setup for my projects, like my 3D printer. A few storage unit websites mention workshops in their FAQ. I'm curious how it works out, and what the situation is for electricity. I don't think I've seen a power outlet in a normal storage unit. I would be really really clear with the manager what you are trying to accomplish with this workshop. To make sure it's as weather proof and theft proof as you need, not to mention the power draw that you're going to need. All of the storage units around here don't allow you to be inside the unit without the door open because people were renting them and living in them and possibly selling stolen motorcycles piece by piece out of them or other illegal things, so anyone who drove by can see in and see what you have in there while you're working as well. I'd rather build a shed/shop in the backyard and use that, if you have the room.
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Apr 6, 2014 21:28
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Chainclaw posted:Has anyone used a storage unit as a workshop? I've been wanting a workshop so I can have a more permanent setup for my projects, like my 3D printer. A few storage unit websites mention workshops in their FAQ. I'm curious how it works out, and what the situation is for electricity. I don't think I've seen a power outlet in a normal storage unit. Have you considered joining a local hackerspace? If there's a good one in town, it's probably cheaper than a storage unit, and you'll get more for your money.
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Apr 6, 2014 21:31
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Pics of my chimney: Looks ok from here..  Water seeping out of the mortar? (Taken at the base)  Capped properly by guys who apparently know what they're doing, with overhang and drip line etc The flashing does look kind of crappy when I look at it but I've had two different companies up there and they both say it's fine.
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Apr 6, 2014 23:25
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asdf32 posted:What's the market for dirt? That's barely over a yard. In my area, I got 5 yards of sifted soil for planting for, like, $30, and that includes them using their loader to dump it in the back of my truck. Do you have a spot you can just dump it out and spread it around? Maybe a tree that could use some extra soil over its roots, or something? Spreading that small an amount of dirt around even a moderately small area will make it disappear pretty fast. Just don't put it anywhere you want to walk, because it'll turn to mud when it rains.
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Apr 6, 2014 23:39
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I have a kitchen table I bought a few years ago that looks like it's going to need refinished. My wife did her nails on it and I think some of the acetone got on there and just stripped some of the finish mostly off. Here's some pictures where you can kinda make it out...  So what's the best way to do this? I'm guessing just doing a spot touch up wouldn't be the best thing, right? Is this going to end up with me sanding the whole thing down and throwing a new lacquer on it? I'm open to help/suggestions.
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Apr 6, 2014 23:57
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Amykinz posted:I would be really really clear with the manager what you are trying to accomplish with this workshop. To make sure it's as weather proof and theft proof as you need, not to mention the power draw that you're going to need. All of the storage units around here don't allow you to be inside the unit without the door open because people were renting them and living in them and possibly selling stolen motorcycles piece by piece out of them or other illegal things, so anyone who drove by can see in and see what you have in there while you're working as well. I'd rather build a shed/shop in the backyard and use that, if you have the room. We're in apartment land in the Seattle area, getting anything with a yard and a good commute costs an arm and a log. My thought was we could downside to a small 1 bedroom apartment next year, if we had a workshop to keep our projects at. I had only even thought this might be an option because I saw in the FAQ on a storage site (that isn't in the Seattle area unfortunately) these two questions that really caught my attention: Can my band practice in the unit? Yes, we have several locations that can accommodate band practice. Speak with your local store manager to find the location nearest to you. Can I use the storage unit as a workshop? Yes, we have many storage units suitable as a workshop. Our store manager can provide all the details about how to make the space a comfortable workplace for your needs. I figure if this shows up in the FAQ for this "StorageMart" chain, then something in the Seattle area must offer the same thing. It sounds like I'll have to actually call around and ask, though. eddiewalker posted:Have you considered joining a local hackerspace? The one hackerspace I go to in Seattle (Metrix) doesn't really offer any personal space. I want to have somewhere that I can keep my stuff at permanently, and ideally keep in-progress projects out. Having to set up everything and then tear it down every time I want to work on Arduino / arcade hardware is really frustrating.
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Apr 7, 2014 02:24
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Chainclaw posted:We're in apartment land in the Seattle area, getting anything with a yard and a good commute costs an arm and a log. My thought was we could downside to a small 1 bedroom apartment next year, if we had a workshop to keep our projects at. It sounds like you need a studio. Any artist co-ops around?
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Apr 7, 2014 18:07
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Pneumatics question -- not sure this is the right thread, but here we go. I mentor for a robotics team, and we're doing build competition that may involve pneumatics, but we don't have a compressor for every team. My solution is to have the compressor move between teams, charging their tank when its their turn. This means doing an "off-board" compressor design, but I can't find much info on how to actually do that. Here's the standard pneumatic layout that we use:  If I charge the system and simply remove the compressor, the air just escapes.  So what if I put a valve after the compressor?  That way when the system is charged, I close it, then remove the compressor.  Only one problem: if I accidentally leave the valve closed when I charge, I'm going to be charging just 6" of tube, and I'm going to have a bad time.  We have an emergency relief valve on the compressor, but I'd rather not rely on that. How are you "supposed" to do it? Is there some special valve just for this?
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Apr 7, 2014 18:51
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It's called a check valve, and only lets air flow one way. But sure, a manual valve instead would work too, but there'd be the chance that someone would foolishly vent it unintentionally. They also make manual valves with check valves built in, so the air can only go one way AND you can shut it off completely. That's popular in kegerators, I have an 8-way manifold with 8 check/manual valves, one for each keg. Stop by your local home-brew place, I bet you can get what you need there in short order, or at least fondle some relevant parts. Also, I don't think you'd "have a bad day" if you left the valve close with the compressor on. It should have a built in regulator that would sense when that little bit of volume is at pressure, and then shut off. It'd just happen a lot sooner and you'd say, "Huh? Why'd it shut off already?" and then you'd realize the valve was closed, open it up, and the compressor would kick in again. e: Oh, you mentioned the compressor has an e-relief, does that mean it doesn't have a built in regulator? Huh. Well, doesn't really change the above solution, but said solution doesn't HELP with that particular aspect, either. I'm sure you could get a regulator that would kill power to the compressor once the target pressure had been met. But that'd require more money. e: Oh, also, you know what, just use a quick disconnect between the compressor and your system. You can buy them at Home Depot and Lowe's. They shut off when not connected, so you'll just get a little *plip* of air escaping when you disconnect, and then it's all locked up. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Apr 7, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 18:55
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Bad Munki posted:It's called a check valve, and only lets air flow one way. Sweet, quick disconnect sounds perfect. The compressor in question is for use in robotics, and it's "dumb", as in "have power = go". The e-relief and pressure switch are separate components I'll be hooking up, and you're right -- once I have them in place, then if that valve is closed, it will just turn off immediately when it hits pressure. But quick disconnect sounds even better.
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Apr 7, 2014 19:18
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Mind you: only the female side of those disconnects closes on disconnect. The male end is 100% open. Normally, that means you put the female end on your supply line and the male end on your tool, so that the compressor isn't venting gas when your tool is disconnected. In this case, though, you'll want it "backwards," with the male end on the compressor and the female end on the main system.
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Apr 7, 2014 19:24
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My house has an irrigation well (basically just the hose bibs), and the pump does not seem to be pumping. I just bought the house a few months ago and have only used the well water once prior to this weekend when it wouldn't work. About 2-3 weeks ago I turned the pump on to run the hose, and it worked fine. Yesterday though, there was nothing. I opened the door to the pumphouse (really just a small closet off the back of the garage), and it was really warm inside. I didn't think much of it since it was a warm day and the pumphouse isn't ventilated or anything. I realized later that the pump itself was hot to the touch. Not hot enough to burn you, but it was uncomfortable to touch for more than a couple seconds. Every few minutes it made a sort of buzzing/humming sound for about twenty seconds. I shut the breaker off in case it was just overheated, but even after cooling down it wouldn't start up. Could this be as simple as needing new brushes, or could the whole thing be shot? It's a fairly old pump, I'd guess 50s or 60s vintage.
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Apr 7, 2014 19:51
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stubblyhead posted:My house has an irrigation well (basically just the hose bibs), and the pump does not seem to be pumping. I just bought the house a few months ago and have only used the well water once prior to this weekend when it wouldn't work. About 2-3 weeks ago I turned the pump on to run the hose, and it worked fine. Yesterday though, there was nothing. This could be a whole lot of things, from pump issues to the well casing run dry (if it was left on and has been pumping water for days now). Some pictures might help, but really what it coms down to is figuring out what the pump sounds sound like when it's pumping and what it sounds like now.
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Apr 7, 2014 19:55
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Motronic posted:This could be a whole lot of things, from pump issues to the well casing run dry (if it was left on and has been pumping water for days now). The pump only runs on demand, so in theory only when one of the hoses is running (they're all turned off). There's a small reservoir in the pumphouse, maybe 50 gallons or so, and it sounds like it's empty when I knock on it. I'm told the pump has a switch that will try to keep that tank at a certain level and that the previous owner (now passed away, unfortunately) just left the pump switched on all the time, and it would just run when it needed to top off the tank and just sat idle otherwise. I'll take some pictures later and see if I can get a recording of the humming sound. There's no indication of any leaking inside the pumphouse or at any of the hose bibs.
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Apr 7, 2014 22:56
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Is the tank a reservoir or is it the pressure tank for the pump? And if so is it pressurized?
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Apr 7, 2014 23:39
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nwin posted:I have a kitchen table I bought a few years ago that looks like it's going to need refinished. My wife did her nails on it and I think some of the acetone got on there and just stripped some of the finish mostly off. Here's some pictures where you can kinda make it out... Sand it down, varnish over it, repeat until happy.
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Apr 8, 2014 00:41
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I'm moving on Saturday and I want to wash a 4'x6' 100% cotton, Pottery Barn, woven, Navajo style rug. It's pretty drat filthy. Should I use Woolite or dish soap, and should I just scrub and sponge rinse, or wet the rug down then brush and rinse it? Thanks.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:19
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BgRdMchne posted:I'm moving on Saturday and I want to wash a 4'x6' 100% cotton, Pottery Barn, woven, Navajo style rug. It's pretty drat filthy. Should I use Woolite or dish soap, and should I just scrub and sponge rinse, or wet the rug down then brush and rinse it? Thanks. How thick is it? Could you cram it into a washing machine?
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Apr 8, 2014 02:24
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kid sinister posted:How thick is it? Could you cram it into a washing machine? 1/8" or so. It's pretty heavy and I don't trust it in my home machine, which is pretty big and nice. e: nevermind. It's not as heavy as I remember it. I'm gonna throw it in the washer. Thanks. BgRdMchne fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 02:26
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BgRdMchne posted:1/8" or so. It's pretty heavy and I don't trust it in my home machine, which is pretty big and nice. For an 1/8" all cotton rug smaller than a full size bedsheet? I'd definitely throw it in the washer on delicate.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:37
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Just looked at the tag and it says do not machine wash, handwash only.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:39
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